The Stax thread (New)
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Oct 29, 2012 at 11:50 PM Post #19,908 of 24,807
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I am not running the signal through two attenuators or volume controls and I don't think he is asking that. He is what I am doing in one of my systems.
 
Source => DAC === XLR output==>Y XLR Spliter ==> Preamp === XLR output 1 ==> Speakers amplifier.
                          I                                       I                        L === XLR output 2 ==> speaker amplifier driving HE-6.
                          I                                       L =====> 727 II
                          L=== RCA output ==> WA5-LE

OK, got it, I misunderstood. Nice Diagram sir!
Sorry for the rant.
Anyhow, now I need to deal (in the morning) with the 50-60 foot tree that fell over in my front yard an hour or so ago in the storm here in NJ about 15 feet from my front door.
(Some gutters/shutters also fell off.)
Thanks again.
 
Oct 30, 2012 at 2:30 AM Post #19,909 of 24,807
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The Quad are still the best speaker in the world (and I've heard a ton of them) for people who like to listen to performances reproduced within a defined space. The ability of the Quads to recreate the sense of fingers on instruments and voices coming from mouths is remarkable. They also recreate the recording space incredibly well. It's like you can feel the walls of the room. Truly holographic. You just need the right amplifier! That's always the trick... but if you are willing to spend the money, they will give a lifetime of happiness, until you move to a place they don't fit anymore :frowning2:


Well beside the Stax f-81 speakers :))
 
Regards Georg
 
Oct 30, 2012 at 2:38 AM Post #19,910 of 24,807
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There is a material difference but you have to know what to look for.  Otherwise it's off with the earpads and look at the driver frame.  The serial number is also on the cardboard box the phones shipped in if you have it. 

 
I don't have the box either unfortunately, I have replaced the earpads before so I don't mind doing that - what are the differences to look for in the driver frame? Thanks for the help by the way
 
Oct 30, 2012 at 8:45 AM Post #19,912 of 24,807
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OK, got it, I misunderstood. Nice Diagram sir!
Sorry for the rant.
Anyhow, now I need to deal (in the morning) with the 50-60 foot tree that fell over in my front yard an hour or so ago in the storm here in NJ about 15 feet from my front door.
(Some gutters/shutters also fell off.)
Thanks again.

Np problem. Stay safe.
 
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Oct 30, 2012 at 1:14 PM Post #19,913 of 24,807
Was there ever a consensus on what the best earpad replacement was for the original sr-lambda from a performance standpoint?  I know I've asked this before, but there may not really be an strong opinions.  pads are next on my list.
 
Oct 30, 2012 at 2:38 PM Post #19,914 of 24,807
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I don't have the box either unfortunately, I have replaced the earpads before so I don't mind doing that - what are the differences to look for in the driver frame? Thanks for the help by the way

 
There is a small piece that covers the cable entry on the new ones but the old ones are a single piece with the cable connections on the back, inside the housing. 
 
Oct 30, 2012 at 2:41 PM Post #19,915 of 24,807
Was there ever a consensus on what the best earpad replacement was for the original sr-lambda from a performance standpoint?  I know I've asked this before, but there may not really be an strong opinions.  pads are next on my list.


Do you mean new style vs previous styles of pads or just which version of the new? I'm not positive about pad differences from a performance standpoint, since I haven't tried old and new on the same model of lambda, but I can say the old style is much more comfortable. My 404, 303, and Lambda sig have the new style and become uncomfortable after long sessions of listening. (though admittedly the old style frame does help ease this a bit)
 
Oct 30, 2012 at 3:06 PM Post #19,916 of 24,807
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Do you mean new style vs previous styles of pads or just which version of the new? I'm not positive about pad differences from a performance standpoint, since I haven't tried old and new on the same model of lambda, but I can say the old style is much more comfortable. My 404, 303, and Lambda sig have the new style and become uncomfortable after long sessions of listening. (though admittedly the old style frame does help ease this a bit)

I have the original sr-lambda normal bias, and I'm looking to replace the pads because they are pretty stiff, and probably flatter then they should be..  the original were a fake leather of some kind.  I was wondering if any of the newer pads made of leather would make an improvement in sound.  I suppose I also should make sure which model actually fits my cans.  if my only option is the 202 pad, then thats fine as well.  just trying to make an educated decision.  typically, after I buy something, I find out I should have spent a few dollars for the upgrade.  trying to avoid that.
 
Oct 30, 2012 at 4:01 PM Post #19,917 of 24,807
Quote:
I have the original sr-lambda normal bias, and I'm looking to replace the pads because they are pretty stiff, and probably flatter then they should be..  the original were a fake leather of some kind.  I was wondering if any of the newer pads made of leather would make an improvement in sound.  I suppose I also should make sure which model actually fits my cans.  if my only option is the 202 pad, then thats fine as well.  just trying to make an educated decision.  typically, after I buy something, I find out I should have spent a few dollars for the upgrade.  trying to avoid that.

 
Any Lambda model's pads will fit since Stax hasn't really changed the earcup design over the last 33 years (just the headband/arc), so the decision mostly lies in which pads you prefer the feel of.
 
I don't have any experience with the real leather pads used on some models, but I did notice that the SR-202's pads felt almost as stiff while the SR-303's were noticeably softer, so there is a difference even between pleather pads.
 
Oct 30, 2012 at 9:45 PM Post #19,918 of 24,807
Well, with no power from 7:30pm to midnight last night (thanks to Hurricane Sandy....though it could have been MUCH worse from the images from NYC and NJ), I was finally able to settle in on the big battle between my current favourite "go to" headphones the LCD-3s and my new SR-009s tonight. I've exclusively used the SR-009s since they arrived last Friday to familiarize myself with their sound on various types of music. Here's a very quick initial summary:
 
OK, its official! Used to be that the LCD-3s were my "Gladys Knight of headphones" and my HD800s and W3000s were The Pips so to speak.
 
Now, looks like I've got three Pips (all my dynamic cans) and the SR009s are my new Gladys Knight! This is rather a surprising finding for me as I've never been really swayed enough to pick up a Stax rig (though the SR007 MKIs did have me humming and hawing for a while).
 
The deep bass that I LOVE on the LCD-3s is there on my SR-009s with unbelievably better control (didn't think that was possible over the LCD-3s 
size]
). Imaging is just under the HD800s, but precision of placement within that sound stage is un-matched. And detail retrieval...no other headphone comes close to them. I heard things on the SR-009s these past few days that none of my other headphones (past or present) has ever revealed. And mostly on recordings that I've known for over 20 - 25 years!


 
More to come...
 
Oct 30, 2012 at 10:09 PM Post #19,919 of 24,807
I've been checking the balance/offset on my srm-1/mk2 and I'm getting some weird values. The balance for the left channel is at ~70VDC and the right ~80VDC. The offset for both is hovering around -15VDC. I let the amp warm up first before measuring, and these values are the closest I can get them to zero before the pots inside stop turning. What could be the cause of this? Some parts needing replacement?
 
Oct 30, 2012 at 10:35 PM Post #19,920 of 24,807
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I've been checking the balance/offset on my srm-1/mk2 and I'm getting some weird values. The balance for the left channel is at ~70VDC and the right ~80VDC. The offset for both is hovering around -15VDC. I let the amp warm up first before measuring, and these values are the closest I can get them to zero before the pots inside stop turning. What could be the cause of this? Some parts needing replacement?

I had similar issues.  I ended up doing a complete recap and resistor replacement.  what seemed to help the most was the change out of the 27kΩ resistors.  those are the 8 resistors that stick up above the board.  All of my resistors checked out fine, except those.  they were all low.  Others should chime in, but that is what happened to mine.  
 
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