But the electronicgoldmine dont ship to Turkey, will find somewhere that ships here with down to earth shipping prices (American Microsemiconductor Inc. ships here but for 108.21 USD !!!!)
But the electronicgoldmine dont ship to Turkey, will find somewhere that ships here with down to earth shipping prices (American Microsemiconductor Inc. ships here but for 108.21 USD !!!!)
But the electronicgoldmine dont ship to Turkey, will find somewhere that ships here with down to earth shipping prices (American Microsemiconductor Inc. ships here but for 108.21 USD !!!!)
how does the srd-7 do if you completely replace the power cord? I was thinking of doing what Spritzer suggests and just wiring the speaker cables to the transformer and upgrading the power cable all with good copper.
the background just needs to be blacker. sound detail is good overall but there is a smidge of blurr that needs cleaning up. could be the dac but man I don't know. Once I get my Trends USB to coax converter things should improve.
It's not a wiring problem. The problem is in the transformers used to convert the low impedence speaker output to the high impedence headphone output needed by the Stax. The transformers "compress" the dynamics, rendering the music lifeless by suppressing detail and "sparkle" under many layers of wool blankets. There's no hope for this mode, as it's flawed electrically. Perhaps if you used very high quality transformers with much lower Q you might have a chance, but it's really a zero sum game.
If you'd like to think of it in the analogy of a sports car, one with a zippy motor, imagine having to run every race in sixth gear. That's what these transformer devices are doing to your detail.
You can generate hefty voltage swings, but you cannot replace the detail in the swinging curve, as that becomes compressed.
Originally Posted by spacemanspliff /img/forum/go_quote.gif how does the srd-7 do if you completely replace the power cord? I was thinking of doing what Spritzer suggests and just wiring the speaker cables to the transformer and upgrading the power cable all with good copper.
Even if you're the kinda guy who believes that power cables can improve things, the amount of power drawn through the srd-7 power cord is infinitessimally small. A tenth of a watt, iirc.
You could use cotton string soaked in salt water for the same performance.
hold on a second, I need to get my patent attorney on the phone for this "wetcables" idea . . . .
Originally Posted by ericj /img/forum/go_quote.gif Even if you're the kinda guy who believes that power cables can improve things, the amount of power drawn through the srd-7 power cord is infinitessimally small. A tenth of a watt, iirc.
You could use cotton string soaked in salt water for the same performance.
hold on a second, I need to get my patent attorney on the phone for this "wetcables" idea . . . .
I'll license those cables from you!!
Power cables do make a difference but often for the worse. Some do help filter out all the crap those switching PSU's are pushing back into the mains. Needless to say they aren't a good upgrade on the SRD's.
Originally Posted by Downrange /img/forum/go_quote.gif The transformers "compress" the dynamics, rendering the music lifeless by suppressing detail and "sparkle" under many layers of wool blankets. There's no hope for this mode, as it's flawed electrically.
Originally Posted by Johnny Blue /img/forum/go_quote.gif Saltuk, but my heart goes out to you: I did something similar to you with my SRM-212 (reversing polarity, despite checking!)
The reason for all the blown fuses when you use an external power supply is surge current--the sudden inrush of current when you first turn on the amp. The tiny transformer in the Stax wall-wart doesn't have this problem because it can't muster enough current to blow the fuse in the first fraction of a second. People assume they've hooked it up wrong and switch the polarity, then the real problem starts. Oh no!
The simple solution if you want to test another power source like a battery or high quality power supply is to use a 10 ohm resistor in series. The value of the resistor is not critical, just so it slows the inrush. Once you turn it on and the red LED comes on, you can then bypass the resistor. Switching to a slow-blow fuse solves the problem permanently, if you're willing to open the case and solder one in. I see Downrange touched on this issue earlier.
BTW, the Stax wall-wart puts out a lot of ripple. I measured 1.1 volts (peak-to-peak) under load. That's pretty high. I think we can do better. Deep-cycle lead acid batteries work well. I also built a STEPS (from the DIY section) for this purpose. It's a worthwhile improvement to my ears.
I recently purchased a pair of SR-Lambda Signature. [size=xx-small](hurray!)[/size] I still haven't received it yet, but according to the description the original foam is still mostly intact. How does one prevent it from deteriorating?
Originally Posted by milkpowder /img/forum/go_quote.gif I recently purchased a pair of SR-Lambda Signature. [size=xx-small](hurray!)[/size] I still haven't received it yet, but according to the description the original foam is still mostly intact. How does one prevent it from deteriorating?
Nice score!
'spritzer' sure have (or had) some nice 'phones laying around..
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