[Andre Jute]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Johnny Blue /img/forum/go_quote.gif Fascinating post, Andre, thanks. I think the 3rd option you mention interests me most. The Naim HiCaps (as their name suggests) consist of a whopping great toroidal transformer and a couple of enormous capacitors, which would suggest to me that they comply with your suggestion (although since I'm pretty ignorant about electronics, there may be more to it than this; they may even be regulated for all I know).

It's possible about the Naim HiCaps. A transformer-rectifier-cap is a power supply already.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Johnny Blue /img/forum/go_quote.gif I'd certainly love to try something along these lines, but apart from building a 'Wireless World' Dolby Processor from a DIY kit many years ago, and soldering my SR-X Mk3s (to replace the crimps), I'm not certain my soldering skills are up to it...

Sounds to me like you have more soldering skills than most DIYers. I often suspect that some of them "do tubes" because they lack the confidence to solder all those creepy-crawlies!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Johnny Blue /img/forum/go_quote.gif For when I do pluck up the courage: do you have any idea where I could find a suitable circuit diagram and parts list for a PS for the SRM-212, along these lines?

Hang on. If you only want an experiment, the closest to pure DC you will come is through a possibility I haven't mentioned yet, battery power. The only reason to build a power supply is to save money in the long term because batteries are expensive as your only source of power.

Get two 6V lantern batteries, cheap at the high street trinket discounters (called "pound shops" in Ireland where I live) or at any hardware store. Link them in series and to a cable to your 212 or 252. Enjoy many hours of pure power without huge expense of money and time.

If you then still want to go ahead with a power supply, there are plenty of designs on the net, or I can adapt one of my 6.3V filament designs for you. All the end result will consist of is a transformer, a bridge rectifier with bypasses for silence, two big caps and a resistor in a pi filter, and an oversize bleed for safety; I also like ballasts which are just big power resistors bleeding off current into nothing but heat -- and stability; that sort of thing makes the "real" engineers crawl up the wall in rage at the "waste". The only trick is in scaling the parts right so you don't unwittingly build a filter for the wanted part of your sound, or overvolt the amp intolerably.

But try the batteries first; you might fall in love with them too deeply to want to be bothered with soldering.

Andre Jute
Impedance is futile, you will be simulated into the triode of the Borg. -- Robert Casey

 

[John Buchanan]

The 717 is better with the high demand phones (the O2 and the Sigma) than the SRM 1 Mk2. It's a great amp IMHO, but the latter is no slouch with the lower demand phones such as the Lambda Nova Signature.

 

[Carl]

Quote:

Originally Posted by spritzer /img/forum/go_quote.gif The Sennheiser's are one of the easiest stats to drive so they will sound great out of almost anything. There are good solid reasons for this and it's why some people are having problems with their HE90's on other amps then the HEV90. I've never heard the 4070 (hopefully soon) but I they are probably harder to drive then the Lambdas that are in turn a tougher load then the HE60/90. You need a real amp...

I don't find the HE60s that amp friendly. They need something that can slew really fast.

The 4070s are actually less efficient than the Sigma Pros, although they don't become a big blob of flabby midbass when underamped the way the SPs do. They still need a good amp, anyway.

 

[Vaughn]

I'm thinking of going electrostatic and could use a little advice.

I have been looking at the Stax 2050 system on AudioCubes2 and at the
Koss ESP-950. I would like an amp that takes a line level input instead of
an input coming from my amplifier. It seems the 2050 does this, unless I
am mistaken. Does anyone know about the Koss?

My budget is around $500.00, obviously less if possible.

 

[Carl]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vaughn /img/forum/go_quote.gif I'm thinking of going electrostatic and could use a little advice. I have been looking at the Stax 2050 system on AudioCubes2 and at the Koss ESP-950. I would like an amp that takes a line level input instead of an input coming from my amplifier. It seems the 2050 does this, unless I am mistaken. Does anyone know about the Koss? My budget is around $500.00, obviously less if possible.

Well the Koss amp is pretty useless with the stock wallwart power supply, but it does have line level inputs. Replacing the power supply with a beefy wallwart or bench supply, or even a block of rechargable batteries if you're feeling frisky, will get you closer to where you want to be, but it's circuit still isn't as good as the SRM-252II is.

The ESP950 is a better headphone than the SR-202 without any trouble.

 

[randerson3024]

Quote:

Originally Posted by spritzer /img/forum/go_quote.gif The Sennheiser's are one of the easiest stats to drive so they will sound great out of almost anything. There are good solid reasons for this and it's why some people are having problems with their HE90's on other amps then the HEV90. I've never heard the 4070 (hopefully soon) but I they are probably harder to drive then the Lambdas that are in turn a tougher load then the HE60/90. You need a real amp... My issue with the Pro's is the recessed midrange and disjointed bass. They lack the coherence that both the normal model and the Signature have. The Lambdas have all their own character and that's why I'm doing a pretty big comparative review of the TOTL models. It will mostly be a look at their history and development with comparisons thrown in. Now only if the SR-404 would get here so I can get on with it... I'm going to buy a second Lambda Pro and remove the fiber backing. I hope it will have the same results as with the SR-Lambda, taking a good headphone and fully unleashing it's potential. I don't get it why the 006t is such a bad amp when the T1 is so good. Penny pinching gone mad isn't a good thing. It's the same with the normal bias Gamma. There is a definitive coloration in the midrange and I think it's the cheap housing messing with the sound.

As I suspected - it's time for the amp search to begin.

 

[Johnny Blue]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Andre Jute /img/forum/go_quote.gif ...Hang on. If you only want an experiment, the closest to pure DC you will come is through a possibility I haven't mentioned yet, battery power. The only reason to build a power supply is to save money in the long term because batteries are expensive as your only source of power. Get two 6V lantern batteries, cheap at the high street trinket discounters (called "pound shops" in Ireland where I live) or at any hardware store. Link them in series and to a cable to your 212 or 252. Enjoy many hours of pure power without huge expense of money and time.

Yes, I'm aware of the battery as PS potential (pun slightly intended), but my fear is I'll like it too much, then be too mean to shell out on batteries. I posted much earlier on in this thread to see if anyone knew how to hold 10 AAs (= LR-6s) together so I could use my re-chargeable 1.2v NiMH batteries (which would also make the system [trans]portable!), but got no replies.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Andre Jute /img/forum/go_quote.gif If you then still want to go ahead with a power supply, there are plenty of designs on the net, or I can adapt one of my 6.3V filament designs for you. All the end result will consist of is a transformer, a bridge rectifier with bypasses for silence, two big caps and a resistor in a pi filter, and an oversize bleed for safety; I also like ballasts which are just big power resistors bleeding off current into nothing but heat -- and stability; that sort of thing makes the "real" engineers crawl up the wall in rage at the "waste". The only trick is in scaling the parts right so you don't unwittingly build a filter for the wanted part of your sound, or overvolt the amp intolerably.

See? This is where I'm completely lost! I have no understanding of electronics (soldering a kit or a dodgy join is about it!) so what you've written just there leaves me feeling helpless...

...on the other hand everybody has to start somewhere, so maybe a home-made PS is the way to go (when I've got hold of a parts list and a comprehensible [to me] circuit diagram!).

 

[jigster]

Did anyone managed to get hold of Justin with regards to the BH SE? Been emailing him a few times but only got a reply twice. Anyone know if he's taking orders now?

 

[Carl]

Quote:

Originally Posted by jigster /img/forum/go_quote.gif Did anyone managed to get hold of Justin with regards to the BH SE? Been emailing him a few times but only got a reply twice. Anyone know if he's taking orders now?

Justin isn't exactly Mr Promt Reply, so that's to be expected.

 

[Downrange]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Johnny Blue /img/forum/go_quote.gif Yes, I'm aware of the battery as PS potential (pun slightly intended), but my fear is I'll like it too much, then be too mean to shell out on batteries. I posted much earlier on in this thread to see if anyone knew how to hold 10 AAs (= LR-6s) together so I could use my re-chargeable 1.2v NiMH batteries (which would also make the system [trans]portable!), but got no replies. See? This is where I'm completely lost! I have no understanding of electronics (soldering a kit or a dodgy join is about it!) so what you've written just there leaves me feeling helpless...

First, if you're in the U.S., Radio Shack has a variety of battery cases that are very inexpensive. I rigged up a four-cell (AA) case for 1.2V cells for my Stax mini (001). They may not have a ten cell, but I'm pretty sure they have a five cell - just use two in series (PM me if you need more technical info on wiring this - it's simple).

I can think of better ways to immerse yourself into the wonderful world of DIY electronics than trying to build your first power supply, especially when there are so many inexpensive solutions around (see my earlier post). As Andre says, some wall warts are OK, too, but the trick is knowing which ones are good, and which ones are mediocre. I still say an inexpensive regulated supply is the best bet; most wall warts have rudimentary regulation and poor filtering. Many are "switching" power supplies, which are convenient for various line voltages, but do not provide the clean supply for the best sound.

Consider this: many people spend hundreds extra to have Justin at Headamp install Black Gate capacitors in the power supply for the KGSS amplifier (1500 dollar amp with no mods). They do this in pursuit of deeper filtration of the 12 V source voltage; the capacitors are not in the signal path. I wouldn't spend that, because my understanding is that that's a good example of "over-engineering" a solution for a problem that doesn't exist. (PS filtering is adequate - Justin uses tons of capacitance, and Black Gates are better for use IN other amps that need them.) But, it's a continuum from the sublime to the ridiculous. Spend a bit more than the wall wart at mall wart (Walmart), but don't go crazy. You should be able to find a good regulated PS for less than 50 USD, much less if you buy used. Just my two cents!

Oh, and by the way, there was a statement in one of the posts (I'm not too sure where) to the effect that a good, stiff, regulated supply might make the sound somehow "boring" or less dynamic (believe this was in reference to a tube design). With solid state amps, that's definitely not the case. If the design relies on a soft or unregulated power supply for its characteristic sound, you don't want to listen to it. As Andre suggested, two lantern batteries are a good DC source. Very pure, and also very, very stiff. The small current draw from a 2050 would barely move a voltmeter between those batteries and the amp. So, you can't believe everything you read, even in this thread. Just keep in mind, what you're trying to do with a PS is approach that ideal of a pure DC source, like the lantern batteries, at a cost and size point that you can live with. A regulated supply intersects those points very well.
Best of luck, and let us know how it goes.

 

[Johnny Blue]

Oh, great! Just when I'd decided that my (admittedly very limited) understanding of wall wart power supplies (= that regulated is better than unregulated) was wrong, because of that which Andre wrote earlier, then along comes Downrange and re-asserts my initial belief!

If I could get something like a Naim HiCap (but way, way cheaper!) that gives out 12v, I'd love to hear what the SRM-212 could do (I still believe that the relative naffness of the Stax amps is due to Stax's lack of attention to the power supply, like most Japanese equipment).

Perhaps, as an experiment to see if further investment is appropriate, I should give the lantern batteries a go...

(By the way, I'm in the UK, and our equivalent to Radio Shack (Tandy's?) is Maplin.)

 

[zirgated]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Johnny Blue /img/forum/go_quote.gif Oh, great! Just when I'd decided that my (admittedly very limited) understanding of wall wart power supplies (= that regulated is better than unregulated) was wrong, because of that which Andre wrote earlier, then along comes Downrange and re-asserts my initial belief!

A little knowledge is a dangerous thing

Except very little knowledge, which your wallet will thank you for.

Comparing regulated vs unregulated is rather silly - it's the circuit as a whole that's important. A very good supply, in either category, will be excellent - there should be very little difference between them, in fact. It's a matter of cost effectiveness.

I would expect a regulating supply to be more resilient to bad power input. Not a problem if you have some form of power conditioning.

Quote:

Perhaps, as an experiment to see if further investment is appropriate, I should give the lantern batteries a go...

Sounds good. Anyone tried a on-the-fly recharging battery power supply (same principle as an online UPS)?

 

[Carl]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Johnny Blue /img/forum/go_quote.gif Oh, great! Just when I'd decided that my (admittedly very limited) understanding of wall wart power supplies (= that regulated is better than unregulated) was wrong, because of that which Andre wrote earlier, then along comes Downrange and re-asserts my initial belief!

Depends how good the regulation is relative to the cost of the extra parts and the sonic effects of the extra parts in the current loops. Either can be better, it's a matter of execution.

Quote:

(I still believe that the relative naffness of the Stax amps is due to Stax's lack of attention to the power supply, like most Japanese equipment).

Yeah, pretty much. The 313 is a joke in that respect.

The sad thing is, old Stax used to be one of the best in the world for power supplies. They were the first company to use super-shunt regulation, and had a huge percentage of their gear run off batteries. Those days have since gone, unfortunately.

 

[krmathis]

Quote:

Originally Posted by jigster /img/forum/go_quote.gif Did anyone managed to get hold of Justin with regards to the BH SE?

Yes, but that was back in early March.
I emailed him regarding the Blue Hawaii Special Edition, and received prompt replies within 24 hours every time.

Here are a short summary of what he told me:

1. I will be building 10 of them
2. Parts of the amp might actually be blue
3. It will be a two box unit built much better than the original Blue Hawaii, with many circuit and component improvements. It will also have both Stax and HE90 jacks, like the Aristaeus.
4. There won't be any wood, and the front panel won't extend past the edge of the box (the amplifier chassis will have heat-sinks as the left and right sides of the box, like many power amplifiers).
5. The metal finishing will be the same hand polished as the Aristaeus, and the same laser engraving.
6. It won't be as deep as the regular Blue Hawaii, because moving the power supply to a separate chassis will allow the amplifier chassis to be smaller. However, it will only be in the depth that it will be smaller than the original (about 12" compared to 16"). It's not possible to build the amp smaller than this. The power supply chassis will be about 1/2 the size of the amp chassis.
7. Some of the more major changes I'm making to the Blue Hawaii will involve giving it a more tube-like sound.
8. The estimated price is $3295. I hope to have it released in 2-3 months.
9. I will do the KGST, but not any time soon. I just like doing the limited editions on the electrostatic amps.
10. Because of the influx of HE90 owners on Head-Fi, I will definitely be paying more attention to performance with HE90 and not just Stax.

Can't wait to see pictures of the final product. Cause first then I can decide if I want one or not...

 

[derekbmn]

The price has since been raised to $4500.