[ciphercomplete]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shlonglor /img/forum/go_quote.gif Will the Zero be able to function as a source for small desktop stereo speakers? Is this feasible at all?

Yep. If your desktop speakers have a 1/8 plug then buy a RCA to 1/8 cable and then buy a 1/8 female to female connector. I have my cheapo desktop speakers connected this way.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shlonglor /img/forum/go_quote.gif Also, how hard is it to open up the case, replace the amp opamps and return everything to working order? I understand there's no soldering involved, but I'm hesitant to do something like this to a new piece of hardware.

Not that hard to do. Just remove the screws holding the top on. The opamps are a little hard to get out only because they are so small. They are much smaller than they look in the pics.

 

[Currawong]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Navyblue /img/forum/go_quote.gif When LT1364 is used on the amplifier section, how does it compare to LD Mk I or LD Mk V. Is the difference subtle or obvious? Especially in the sound stage and instrument separation aspect.

I get a better sound stage at the least using my MKV over using the built-in HP amp, both using my Denon's and K701's (see sig). I've also found that even upgrading the power cables to both the ZERO and MKV to thicker gauge ones made an improvement.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lamora /img/forum/go_quote.gif I see most people are using fullsize headphones with the zero, has anyone tried it with etymotic ER-4S/P? I am intending to buy both as soon as i can sell my xbox 360 to someone who'll find more use for it than i do. They will be used for gaming and music.

I plugged in my UE 10 triple.fi's and the result was quite a bit of hiss. Since they came with a...damn i forgot what you call them - inline resistor you can plug in between the 'phones and an amp, I used that when listening with them and the sound was very good.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Almoxil /img/forum/go_quote.gif If your MacBook has coaxial or optical outputs, you'll be fine (sorry, haven't had the chance of using a MacBook). Oh, and there are some USB to SPDIF adapters that may work if your MacBook doesn't have the outputs.

Mac notebooks have a dual-function headphone socket. The kind of cable you need is a Toslink to Mini optical. The ZERO has a Toslink socket and the headphone socket of the Mac doubles as a mini-optical socket.

Unfortunately most optical cables use cheap and nasty $2 adaptors for the mini-optical and sound a bit crap. I recall Penchum saying he got good results from a reasonably priced glass optical cable, the link of which I don't have handy. In my case, I got the Van Den Hul Optocoupler (which costs about as much as the basic ZERO!) and the result has been amazing.

 

[PeterDLai]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Currawong /img/forum/go_quote.gif I plugged in my UE 10 triple.fi's and the result was quite a bit of hiss. Since they came with a...damn i forgot what you call them - inline resistor you can plug in between the 'phones and an amp, I used that when listening with them and the sound was very good.

A sound level attenuator is what you're thinking of I believe...

 

[wquiles]

Quote:

Originally Posted by PeterDLai /img/forum/go_quote.gif A sound level attenuator is what you're thinking of I believe...

Unfortunately sometimes these inline "resistors" do affect the sound quality - your mileage might vary

 

[Currawong]

Whatever one came with my triple.fi's seemed not to, or at least the loss of the hissing improved things enough.

 

[BigSurSpoon]

Is there some kind of warranty on this thing? I bought mine about a month ago and it was working great and I loved it, but one morning, I turn it on and after about 5 minutes, I start to smell something funky. I try to play some music and nothing happens. So I open it up and I can feel the heat coming out of this thing. So naturally, I start to touch things and once I feel the transformer, well, long story short: ouch. I guess the transformer overheated. Anyone else with this problem? This was all stock, I didn't change out the opamps or anything.

 

[Lamora]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Currawong /img/forum/go_quote.gif I plugged in my UE 10 triple.fi's and the result was quite a bit of hiss. Since they came with a...damn i forgot what you call them - inline resistor you can plug in between the 'phones and an amp, I used that when listening with them and the sound was very good.

I guess this is akin to using the the S cable with the ER-4P's or just using the ER-4S'?

 

[Shlonglor]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Currawong /img/forum/go_quote.gif Mac notebooks have a dual-function headphone socket. The kind of cable you need is a Toslink to Mini optical. The ZERO has a Toslink socket and the headphone socket of the Mac doubles as a mini-optical socket. Unfortunately most optical cables use cheap and nasty $2 adaptors for the mini-optical and sound a bit crap. I recall Penchum saying he got good results from a reasonably priced glass optical cable, the link of which I don't have handy. In my case, I got the Van Den Hul Optocoupler (which costs about as much as the basic ZERO!) and the result has been amazing.

I thought digital light = digital light and difference in quality is imaginary. That's what I read a while ago in this thread, at least...
Has anyone tried the PCLink thing snow bundles with the Zero?
Penchum?

 

[Currawong]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shlonglor /img/forum/go_quote.gif I thought digital light = digital light and difference in quality is imaginary. That's what I read a while ago in this thread, at least... Has anyone tried the PCLink thing snow bundles with the Zero? Penchum?

The logic that 1's are 1's and 0's are 0's makes sense in a computer that only has to store the data, but in a circuit that is responding to imperfect digital signals, straight away translating them into an audio signal, it makes a noticeable difference.

 

[Shlonglor]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Currawong /img/forum/go_quote.gif The logic that 1's are 1's and 0's are 0's makes sense in a computer that only has to store the data, but in a circuit that is responding to imperfect digital signals, straight away translating them into an audio signal, it makes a noticeable difference.

What's imperfect about the digital audio steam that gets outputted to the USB?

I have a digital out in my desktop computer, but I'll be using the pclink adapter with my laptop. Will there be a noticeable difference?

 

[Penchum]

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigSurSpoon /img/forum/go_quote.gif Is there some kind of warranty on this thing? I bought mine about a month ago and it was working great and I loved it, but one morning, I turn it on and after about 5 minutes, I start to smell something funky. I try to play some music and nothing happens. So I open it up and I can feel the heat coming out of this thing. So naturally, I start to touch things and once I feel the transformer, well, long story short: ouch. I guess the transformer overheated. Anyone else with this problem? This was all stock, I didn't change out the opamps or anything.

Contact your seller and tell them what happened. Depending on who it was, generally they will work with you to get things fixed up. Lawrence has been good about this, but I'm not sure about the others.

 

[Shlonglor]

I'm also looking for a digital cable. Lawrence offered me a Belden Silver cable Rhodium plating RCA plug for 45$. Is it worth it? Will there be any difference over something... a lot cheaper?

 

[Leto Atreides II]

If it has ~75Ohms impedance, any cable will do. That's really the only difference between a digital and any other RCA cable.

 

[koppite]

About to place my order-- should I be getting an opamp upgrade or is that not needed?

 

[Golden Monkey]

See, I knew you'd find your way to the appropriate thread, koppite!

If you can afford to, go for the upgrades!