post your grado mods....
Oct 10, 2011 at 5:48 PM Post #1,802 of 8,990
So I got a little impatient with waiting for J-Money to get back online and take orders and I wasn't really taken with any of the other headphone bands. I wanted something dark brown, like majestic's post, but I haven't seen many reviews for anything other than fatman's work. I made two attempts at a leather headband, the second came out better than the first:
 
First.
 
Kind of crappy. I thought I could use edge kote to mask the crookedness, but I wasn't fooled. I did this by following this tutorial, but I made the mistake OP warns about and used thick leather. I couldn't fold the edges over, so I tried to just cut two flat pieces and stick the padding in the middle, which adds to it being misshapen.
 
For my second attempt, I decided to be more straightforward and skip the padding. I cut three pieces of leather total. Top, middle and bottom. The top and bottom are basically the parts you see (2.25 inches, the bottom strip was a about half and inch larger on all sides to be trimmed after gluing). The middle piece of leather (~3/4 inch), I cut as a narrow rectangular strip. This takes place of the cardboard frame in the tutorial.

The idea in the original tutorial is that you wrap the leather around the frame, leaving the top of the frame open for you to slide the metal headband through. This is the same idea, only I glued down the edges of the middle piece of leather, leaving the center and ends open so the metal band can slide through. I then glued the bottom piece on top of this and trimmed around so that the top and bottom pieces would be as close to identical as possible (this is step 8 in the original tutorial)
 
Here's the end product (sorry I didn't get pictures during construction, I was too worried about screwing up).
 

 
It's still got some rough edges in the gluing, but I'll probably shave that down with a blade and redo it with contact cement. I used a glue gun for now, but will probably use a thinner adhesive if I do this again. The leather is stiff and sturdy, so I can see it holding together for a while, but would probably be safer using permanent glue. The wider surface area (2 1/4 inches compared to the 1 1/4 of the original headband) distributes the weight more evenly, so they're pretty comfortable and I'm glad I skipped the padding on this go around.
 
While they don't have the most polished finish, this shows what you can do with 7 bucks worth of scrap leather and a box cutter. I have ten thumbs normally and do tend to screw up the first couple times around. I think I would have been happier with a different adhesive, but this felt like another test run. Also, this is an supplement to the first tutorial, which is useful for the fundamentals, but difficult if you can't get your hands on thinner (1oz-1.5oz) leather. I also wasn't taken with using a cardboard frame and liked the idea of an all-leather construction.
 
I picked up scraps from my local leather shop because I didn't want to invest a ton of money into something that might be a disaster. If you plan on using thick leather, you'll easily find scraps between 2 and 3 ounces, which is sturdy enough to keep its shape and soft enough to bend.
 
Oct 15, 2011 at 6:35 AM Post #1,803 of 8,990
Hey guys, on currently working on my MS-1000 mods, and I'd thought i post some of the pics here
 

 
 
The cables are mogami mini quad, and the connector from canare
 
 
The headbands you see are from willmax
 
Will post more once my wood cups and g-cush pads are here 
 
 
Oct 17, 2011 at 2:50 PM Post #1,804 of 8,990
Couldn't wait for my wire to come any longer so did the first stage of my re-wire mod on my SR325is using the cable already on there. Female Rean sockets added so the cable (once it's built) can be easily removed and no more twisted cables! Now to get these properly polished and those pads wrapped! (I'm developing a serious mod addiction) 
 

 
Oct 19, 2011 at 1:39 AM Post #1,805 of 8,990
I saw those posted the other day-- they are very nice, but I just didn't like that shade of brown or the pebbled leather. The cost is a little easier to stomach than J-Money. Might get some silver (cable) from them in the near future.
 
Oct 19, 2011 at 4:58 AM Post #1,806 of 8,990


Quote:
I saw those posted the other day-- they are very nice, but I just didn't like that shade of brown or the pebbled leather. The cost is a little easier to stomach than J-Money. Might get some silver (cable) from them in the near future.

 
The pebbled leather is cow hide that is utilized.  To get a smoother finished leather, lambskin would be the option to look at.
 
 
 
Oct 23, 2011 at 12:33 AM Post #1,809 of 8,990
Hello everyone!
 
I seem to have a problem with some Grado SR125 ... the drivers have different impedance: one has 31,8 OHM and the other 32,3 OHM, which results in one side being noticably louder than the other. And this was measured on the drivers itself ... although not done with professional equpment, but the difference in the volume of the output is obvious. Would soldering, let's say a 0,5 OHM resistor betwin the cord and the driver's terminal have some adverse effect on the sound quality? Should I put it on the + or - terminal?
 
Oct 24, 2011 at 9:34 AM Post #1,810 of 8,990


Quote:
Hello everyone!
 
I seem to have a problem with some Grado SR125 ... the drivers have different impedance: one has 31,8 OHM and the other 32,3 OHM, which results in one side being noticably louder than the other. And this was measured on the drivers itself ... although not done with professional equpment, but the difference in the volume of the output is obvious. Would soldering, let's say a 0,5 OHM resistor betwin the cord and the driver's terminal have some adverse effect on the sound quality? Should I put it on the + or - terminal?


What kind of equipment did you use to measure the resistance ?
 
because 1stly, such a small difference in resistance should not have that much of an obvious effect on  the volume level.
2ndly, the difference in resistance could be caused by flux build up from the point of measurement
and lastly, just because you have the same total resistance, it doesn't mean the voltage over the drivers will be the same, you have to take KVL and Ohm's Law into account
 
 
Oct 24, 2011 at 11:05 AM Post #1,812 of 8,990
yeah if you use a multimeter, theres a good chance that flux build up on the contact area with the probes could cause the slight variation in resistance
 
an oscilloscope might give you a better reading in terms of frequency generated by the drivers
 
Oct 24, 2011 at 11:24 AM Post #1,813 of 8,990
bleh i'm forgetting my signals theory
 
i meant to say, you can determine the volume using the oscilloscope from the decibels per part, regardless of frequency( that will depends on what music you're testing from, the pitch should not affect the volume)
 
Oct 25, 2011 at 12:47 AM Post #1,814 of 8,990
Yeah, I used a pretty regular multimeter and I measured the thing that I thought would maybe cause the volume difference. And yes, the one with the higher impedance, is a little queter. As I said, the difference is obvious and not only to me. I don't have access to a working oscilloscope, so maybe there are other things to try in order to het the same volume from both the drivers?
 
Oct 25, 2011 at 2:35 AM Post #1,815 of 8,990
I got sick and tired of my Grado SR-80s pinching in on the back/rear of my ear lobes.  Instead of stretching out the headband, which would make it too loose to stay on my head.  I decided to add set screws to the bit that hold the rotating gubbins.

This way I can set the angle to have it feel comfortable .. with more pressure on my skull part & less pressure on my ear rear lobes.
 ​
 ​
img0362kg.jpg
Supplys Needed​
 ​
 ​
img0365ib.jpg
Before​
 ​
 ​
img0366sn.jpg
After (sorry for blurry)​
 ​
 ​
img0369rz.jpg
Set Screws in place​
 ​
 ​
img0372em.jpg
Finished Product​
 ​
 ​
img0373w.jpg
Side View​
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top