Orthodynamic Roundup
Sep 4, 2011 at 1:12 AM Post #17,866 of 27,137
That makes sense, assuming that the amps you were using had sufficient grunt to get reasonable volumes out of them in the first place. Changing damping affects the frequency response and sensitivity of the headphones themselves.
 
Sep 4, 2011 at 8:35 AM Post #17,867 of 27,137


Quote:
It occurred to me yesterday that differences in damping schemes have a much bigger effect than any difference in amping.  I prefer certain damping schemes out of my ipod so much more than certain other damping schemes with the same phone out of a nice headphone amp and source.  And I bet the measurements would back this up, with bigger changes between dampings than between amps. 


:p deffo. A mediocre headphone out of a $100000000 amp, is still never better than an amazing headphone out of a ok sounding iPhone headphone jack.
 
Sep 5, 2011 at 12:36 PM Post #17,869 of 27,137
It's not immediately related to headphones, but the world lost one of the early champions of affordable isodynamic speaker tech a couple of weeks ago: audio engineer Daniel R. von Recklinghausen, DvR for short. The credit for coming up with the design eventually known as the EMIT tweeter always seems to go to Arnie Nudell of Infinity, the company that used von Recklinghausen's design and made it famous. What many don't remember is that it was first used by then-sister company KLH. Arguably, the man's most durable legacy is the maxim which reads, in part, "..If it sounds good and measures bad, you've measured the wrong thing."
 
DvR's isodynamic tweeter patent:
 
Sep 5, 2011 at 6:52 PM Post #17,870 of 27,137
Hey guys, I'm having problems with my HP-1 clone ... It's way too quiet. (Elektronica TDS-5M rated at 100 Ohms) I'm running it only through an onboard realtek soundcard via 3.5 -> 6.3  dongle. - no amp, Could that be the issue? I'd say it's barely reaching 70DB... They havent been recabled/damped either. Any thoughts on the matter? 
 
Sep 5, 2011 at 9:58 PM Post #17,871 of 27,137
Most likely your soundcard can't provide enough power and/or gain. Impedance alone is not a measure of how loud a headphone will get; the sensitivity also has to be taken into account.
 
Sep 5, 2011 at 11:08 PM Post #17,872 of 27,137
Agreed and seconded. Do you know ANYONE with a reciever you can temporarily try them in to hear them properly ? ( or a Cowon J3 at least?)  Actually they must be broken I'll buy them off you for $20...
wink_face.gif
throw in a J3 and I'll double that!
 
Sep 5, 2011 at 11:35 PM Post #17,873 of 27,137


Quote:
It's not immediately related to headphones, but the world lost one of the early champions of affordable isodynamic speaker tech a couple of weeks ago: audio engineer Daniel R. von Recklinghausen, DvR for short. The credit for coming up with the design eventually known as the EMIT tweeter always seems to go to Arnie Nudell of Infinity, the company that used von Recklinghausen's design and made it famous. What many don't remember is that it was first used by then-sister company KLH. Arguably, the man's most durable legacy is the maxim which reads, in part, "..If it sounds good and measures bad, you've measured the wrong thing."

 
May he rest in peace. Thanks for the interesting tidbit of history Wualta ..dB
 
 
 
Sep 6, 2011 at 2:55 AM Post #17,874 of 27,137
Hi folks, I just bought some old Yamahas, (HP50a and the YHE50s), I have mainly been an IEM user but had an ear infection a few weeks back that led me to hunt for headphones and I became curious about orthos..

It is really hard to find orthos and expensive at this stage but have to start somewhere I guess.  :)

I have been going through this thread for more than a week and trying to gather as much info as I can so that I can do some modding when they arrive.

Some of the older posts (Duggeh #5497, dBel84) have missing pictures of the mods, I was wondering if any of you still have pictures of the modding procedures, especially opening them, read about the glue and broken tabs. (Kabeer #9395)

I will also need need to recable from mono to stereo. (Kabeer #17632, dBel84 #6867)

I read about the dampings with felt and reflex dots but I am not too sure about the damping order of the various types of felts. Any additional help would be appreciated.

I have not much experience with headphones, the only one I have is the HD25-1 II which I have recabled with a SAA cable.

Cheers :)
 
Sep 6, 2011 at 8:01 AM Post #17,875 of 27,137
Hi,
Use the ludo search engine (see my signature for the link) and you will be able to find things much easier.
Here is ludo's guide on how to start modding HP50: http://www.head-fi.org/t/111193/orthodynamic-roundup/4110#post_4571139
 
Check the YHD-3 wikiphonia page for my info on how to open a YHE50s. But still be very careful.
If you have a YHE-50S then you wont need to recable from mino to stereo, as the 'S' indicates stereo. Only 'A' models need to be recabled (so your HP50A would need to be).
 


 
Quote:
Hi folks, I just bought some old Yamahas, (HP50a and the YHE50s), I have mainly been an IEM user but had an ear infection a few weeks back that led me to hunt for headphones and I became curious about orthos..

It is really hard to find orthos and expensive at this stage but have to start somewhere I guess.  :)

I have been going through this thread for more than a week and trying to gather as much info as I can so that I can do some modding when they arrive.

Some of the older posts (Duggeh #5497, dBel84) have missing pictures of the mods, I was wondering if any of you still have pictures of the modding procedures, especially opening them, read about the glue and broken tabs. (Kabeer #9395)

I will also need need to recable from mono to stereo. (Kabeer #17632, dBel84 #6867)

I read about the dampings with felt and reflex dots but I am not too sure about the damping order of the various types of felts. Any additional help would be appreciated.

I have not much experience with headphones, the only one I have is the HD25-1 II which I have recabled with a SAA cable.

Cheers :)



 
 
Sep 6, 2011 at 8:34 AM Post #17,876 of 27,137
Thanks Kabeer, I did try to use Ludo's search engine but somehow didn't see that post. Great tutorial!
 
I might have to recable the YHE-50s too, I think the original cable is mouldy and badly twisted, will see when it arrives.
 
Sep 6, 2011 at 9:16 AM Post #17,877 of 27,137


Quote:
Thanks Kabeer, I did try to use Ludo's search engine but somehow didn't see that post. Great tutorial!
 
I might have to recable the YHE-50s too, I think the original cable is mouldy and badly twisted, will see when it arrives.


If recabling, ill give a bit of advice with the yamahas. Try and reuse the cable stopeers, its a lot simpler than making new ones. The stock cable stoppers are removable, with little mtal clamps inside them. You jsut remove the clamp in the stock cable, and put it on your new cable.
 
 
In the YHE-50s, the clips are darn easy to break, i opened my YHE50a, and even though i wrote the guide, i still managed to break 2 clips.
My advice on YHE-50, is to keep stock pads (if they are in deent condition) and use light damping. 
 
 
 
Sep 8, 2011 at 12:30 AM Post #17,878 of 27,137
Kabeer, which removable cable stoppers are you referring to? The ones at the top of the earcups which routes the cable thru the headband or the cable stopper at the bottom of the earcup which leads to the player/amp? Thanks.
 
I saw your post about the broken clips of the YHE50, I am a bit concern that I wont be able to open it any better than u did..
 
 
Has anyone change the cable that runs through the headband of the YHEs or HP50A/S? I wonder if the 'rubber' tubing and cable stoppers can be reuse. I have a feeling the cable stopper will not be able to slip through the headband and frame. However if the cable stoppers are removable then there is hope..
 
 
 
Sep 8, 2011 at 6:41 AM Post #17,879 of 27,137


Quote:
[...]  
Has anyone change the cable that runs through the headband of the YHEs or HP50A/S? I wonder if the 'rubber' tubing and cable stoppers can be reuse. I have a feeling the cable stopper will not be able to slip through the headband and frame. However if the cable stoppers are removable then there is hope..
 
 

It is exactly as Kabeer described... you remove the metal clamps that are supposed to hold stopers firmly in place and then stoppers might be remove from cable so it's much easier to operate in the headband. You can reuse them (and the clamps) on a new cable. I had experience with HP50. YHE are smaller so it might be harder anyway.
 
 
 

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