Orthodynamic Roundup

[JadeEast]

You can glue leather with contact cement if you don't like sewing.

 

[dBel84]

edit Jan 2011 - rearranged my photos with complete disregard for possible links - looks like I have some fixing to do ......
 
 
 
I have been meaning to get this done for a while. I take no credit with the inovations, all kudus to the great tinkerer , smeggy.

1. The goods - sharp instrument, SFI's , Gorilla glue, felt discs, clamps

....this is gone with the faeries.....

2. Cut the back damping material off of the SFI driver - leave the rim under the metal clamp.



3. Gently torque the metal clamp onto the SFI



4. To apply Gorilla glue ( any polyurethane will do ) , I use a Q-tip which I remove 75% of the fluff



5. Cover the rear magnet with a thin layer of glue



6. Apply thin dense felt disc to magnet , clamp and invert while drying



7. Once the glue has dried, I apply 2 reflex strips ( to emulate smeggy's knuckle test ) . This first layer of felt is the most important IMO - the next thicker layer can be varied quite significantly with small overall effect if this initial layer is done this way.



The final layer of thicker felt is generally less dense than the one glued to the magnet - I run a thin ring of superglue to the edge of the felt and clamp it onto this stage.

If there are any major disagreements with what I have been doing or other suggestions lets hear them ..dB

 

[dBel84]

Quote:

Originally Posted by JadeEast /img/forum/go_quote.gif You can glue leather with contact cement if you don't like sewing.

I did consider glue but thought it would take too long to set and the potential to make an enormous mess was enough of an encouragement to fight with thread and needle along with the singer ..dB

 

[HeadphoneAddict]

PS: The faust2D modded Pro 30 sound pretty good off my Head-Direct EF1 tube hybrid amp too.

 

[wiatrob]

Quote:

Originally Posted by wualta /img/forum/go_quote.gif Yours is a special app. Your main goal should be to keep the bass backwave away from your ears. .... .

Thanks for the tips - I mainly did this as an experiment to tide me over so i wouldn't do any bidding on some auction Orthos... But I may spend a little more time with the idea, as ski season is well nigh here!

Just need a portable battery powered tube amo to keep me warm!

 

[Kabeer]

Hey guys, need a bit of quick help ASAP. What material will be acoustically transparent?

I need something that will fill a gap in my Aiwa cup, to hold some thin felt against the driver. I was thinking sponge. The only thing I have in my house is some sponge we use in the kitchen for cleaning dishes. Will that do?

EDIT: what about fibrefill? the stuff used to stuff pads in the Marlk Denon mods?

Thanks!!

 

[JadeEast]

Quote:

Originally Posted by wiatrob /img/forum/go_quote.gif Thanks for the tips - I mainly did this as an experiment to tide me over so i wouldn't do any bidding on some auction Orthos... But I may spend a little more time with the idea, as ski season is well nigh here! Just need a portable battery powered tube amo to keep me warm!

One of the first SFI phones I mocked up were using a pair of folding fleece earmuffs, an instant "street style" winter ortho. I don't live where it really gets cold enough to wear the style much. If you're in Colorado you could probably get away with it for months.

Camoflage Earmuffs - Compare all offers with Twenga

 

[JadeEast]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kabeer /img/forum/go_quote.gif Hey guys, need a bit of quick help ASAP. What material will be acoustically transparent?

The tradition is fish tank filter foam but I've used fiber fill.

 

[BoilermakerFan]

Kabeer

I'll post my thoughts here for everyone else too, but the foam will dry up and crumble. I think dB experienced that too on a kitchen sink sponge. Just use a little fiber fill as possible because it will change the size perceived size of the enclosure for the driver...

dB,

Real men know how to use a sewing machine! :-D They look great!

 

[ericj]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kabeer /img/forum/go_quote.gif Hey guys, need a bit of quick help ASAP. What material will be acoustically transparent? I need something that will fill a gap in my Aiwa cup, to hold some thin felt against the driver. I was thinking sponge. The only thing I have in my house is some sponge we use in the kitchen for cleaning dishes. Will that do? EDIT: what about fibrefill? the stuff used to stuff pads in the Marlk Denon mods? Thanks!!

Those will both work, and spongy foam is what we usually use here. I wouldn't call either of those acoustically transparent, but their resistance is often a good thing.

If you truly need transparency, look for reticulated foam. This stuff is often sold in thin sheets as air filter media, and in bricks for use as a water filter - say for an aquarium. This is basically foam rubber where the bubbles are entirely popped instead of just partially popped.

I think reticulated foam is a great idea - i have it in both brick and sheet form - but i've always been disappointed by the results. My guess is that regular open-cell foam reduces reflections from the internal chassis, and reticulated foam is only realistic with a fully open back.

 

[ericj]

Quote:

Originally Posted by BoilermakerFan /img/forum/go_quote.gif Kabeer I'll post my thoughts here for everyone else too, but the foam will dry up and crumble. I think dB experienced that too on a kitchen sink sponge. Just use a little fiber fill as possible because it will change the size perceived size of the enclosure for the driver... dB, Real men know how to use a sewing machine! :-D They look great!

Depends on the foam. Some foams have been shown to survive for 20 years or more in headphones. Others not so much.

 

[ludoo]

I have some (possibly) opencell foam, it was a large sheet used for air conditioning filters I bought ages ago, but I never liked any of the phones in which I used it. Might be coincidental, but I stopped using it.

 

[ericj]

For clarification, "closed cell" foam is foam where all or most of the bubbles or 'cells' are intact spheres. These typically are very hard to compress and their resistance to air is nearly total.

"open cell" foam is foam where most or all of the cells are leaky. the size of the cells and how open they are varies greatly, as does the resistance to air and compression. Most of what we use here is medium and low density open-cell.

"reticulated foam" is a dendritic framework of what looks like some sort of plastic thread. compressability varies but resistance to air is never more than very low. You can typically see light shine through reticulated foam, sometimes you can just about read a newspaper through a half inch of it. wualta calls this 'fish foam' because it is easily obtained from an aquarium supply store.

 

[swt61]

I haven't been around much lately, but just had an exciting trade. I traded antonyfirst for his NAD RP18 (rebadged Fostex T50 V1).

They should arrive within a week, and I'll post my thoughts then. Although I just heard the Fostex T50 V1 at the Houston meet 2 weeks ago, and was very impressed.

I guess I need to dig back into this thread for the damping mod instructions for the T50.

Woo Hoo!

 

[antonyfirst]

Quote:

Originally Posted by swt61 /img/forum/go_quote.gif I haven't been around much lately, but just had an exciting trade. I traded antonyfirst for his NAD RP18 (rebadged Fostex T50 V1). They should arrive within a week, and I'll post my thoughts then. Although I just heard the Fostex T50 V1 at the Houston meet 2 weeks ago, and was very impressed. I guess I need to dig back into this thread for the damping mod instructions for the T50. Woo Hoo!

Hey Steve, I sent you a pm to clarify some things regarding Fostex variants. Check it out.