[sachu]

wow..that is just stunning. I just wonder if it is somewhat like the Afzelia where the wood wasn't hard enough for Smeggy to drill the holes for making the baffle removable.

 

[lecky]

Quote:

Originally Posted by scompton /img/forum/go_quote.gif This really applies to most orthos I've heard. Yamahas aren't quite as bad as the Fostex stock. This includes the HE-5 I heard in a meet last month, at least to my ears. The YH-1000 I heard at the meet was unmodded and sounded pretty good.

I've not heard HE-5s but that makes some sense. As you say there aren't too many orthos that sound good stock. I think one of Kabeer's YH-1000s were stock and were great, and the Wharfedales are amazing stock.

 

[swt61]

Quote:

Originally Posted by sachu /img/forum/go_quote.gif wow..that is just stunning. I just wonder if it is somewhat like the Afzelia where the wood wasn't hard enough for Smeggy to drill the holes for making the baffle removable.

Nope, it's quite hard and very stable, especially for a burl.

 

[smeggy]

heh, yes Steve. There's a very very nice block of it in the woodshop right now for $400

Too rich for me sadly.

I almost balked at the koa there. I think I got a good deal though, 8'x1'x1" for $250-ish

75% curly

 

[swt61]

Yeah it's pricey, but I've had good luck with blocks about 8" x 4" x 2" on ebay. Got one for $17.99 once.

 

[smeggy]

wow, sweet...
need to do more ebaying.

 

[wualta]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kabeer So it turns out the Yamaha YHD-2 has two layers of some fairly thin barely useful tissue felt behind the driver.

I believe it's a dust protector disc. Nonwoven but porous and acoustically close enough to transparent as makes no odds. Probably reflects a little treble, which is all to the good, but obviously something a bit stronger in effect was called for.


Quote:

Originally Posted by Kabeer Comparatively the Yamaha YHD-1 had an even more useless layer of thin reticulated foam behind the driver and then one layer of that tissue. (thats the foam that turns into sticky goop).

Maybe they had a rattle problem. Who knows. That's why I'd love to sit one of the designers down for some jasmine tea and a little chat. It's sad that no one from that era has come forth.

As for materials and resonance, keep in mind that the problem is complex. Sound can travel through materials and along materials, and can be reflected from materials. If you have any doubt about the suitability of a plastic or wood, form it into a cup, hang it by a string and tap it with something. Ideally you'd hear nothing more than the click of the impact.

Mostly what you want is a compound that is self-damping or lossy and a structure that acts as a "vibration sink"-- in other words, a step input applied to one part is transmitted to the entire structure, which converts the energy into heat and dissipates it. A monocoque. Two nested shells separated by a thin viscoelastic layer would be the ideal, but perhaps overkill.

 

[Kabeer]

Btw, some may have noticed GuyMe's Planatarium ortho wiki is down. He has kindly given access to a backup of it he had, so the ortho thread can mine it and put any needed data onto the wikiphonia (he isnt going to bring planatarium back i dont think).

So for those who have some time please harvest this and plant the missing useful stuff at wikiphonia: Planatarium Backup

(im not sure how to do it)

 

[wualta]

Excellent. I noticed it was gone quite a while ago and was sad that we'd lost some well-done entries on the Russian orthos. Thanks for rescuing it.

 

[GuyMe]

Serge44's contributions were certainly the most significant part of that wiki, my apologies to him if any of his articles, images, or manuals are not contained in that backup. I had said it was fine to clone articles from my wiki to Faust's, I guess that didn't happen for some reason. I checked it one day after about a year and it had been flooded by adbots with tons of crap, legitimate updates had stopped long before. I assumed everyone had moved on with Faust's wiki, so I just deleted it.

Sorry again, hope most of it's there in the backup (I can't recall how recently that was made). I know just browsing the images Serge44's images of the Russian phones seem to be in order, I believe the manuals were on external hosting. I have no idea how you get articles out of that though, and that's obviously the most important part.

 

[mugdecoffee]

I got a pair of T50RPv2's a few days ago and have been thoroughly enjoying them in the library. They are my only closed phones and they isolate very well which is great for studying. When they were stock I thought they sounded terrible: no highs, distant sound, everything just seemed blurry. So far I've stuck a pretty thick piece of papery felt type material I found in our basement on the back of the driver which made the highs come out. I also added weatherstripping all alone the sides of the cup which got rid of all the congestion. The downside though is that one or both of the mods sapped all the bass out (though to be fair I've been listening to my HF-2
s otherwise which have lots of solid bass). Right now I've got the bass EQ'd way up in foobar and the result is excellent especially considering the price. My only complaint is that they are missing some warmth which I'd like to get back. Any other damping/modding suggestions? This summer I plan to try the Thunderpants guide if I can find the tools to do so.

 

[mypasswordis]

If the weatherstrip is touching the drivers, that's why there's no bass. If not, you could possibly try weatherstripping or otherwise damping (Dynamat, bluetak) the backs of the cups.

 

[smeggy]

it may have blocked the vent in the cup

 

[DefectiveAudioComponent]

Quote:

Originally Posted by GuyMe /img/forum/go_quote.gif Serge44's contributions were certainly the most significant part of that wiki, my apologies to him if any of his articles, images, or manuals are not contained in that backup. I had said it was fine to clone articles from my wiki to Faust's, I guess that didn't happen for some reason. I checked it one day after about a year and it had been flooded by adbots with tons of crap, legitimate updates had stopped long before. I assumed everyone had moved on with Faust's wiki, so I just deleted it. Sorry again, hope most of it's there in the backup (I can't recall how recently that was made). I know just browsing the images Serge44's images of the Russian phones seem to be in order, I believe the manuals were on external hosting. I have no idea how you get articles out of that though, and that's obviously the most important part.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kabeer /img/forum/go_quote.gif Btw, some may have noticed GuyMe's Planatarium ortho wiki is down. He has kindly given access to a backup of it he had, so the ortho thread can mine it and put any needed data onto the wikiphonia (he isnt going to bring planatarium back i dont think). So for those who have some time please harvest this and plant the missing useful stuff at wikiphonia: Planatarium Backup (im not sure how to do it)

Is there also a backup of the database? I (maybe it was actually included, but I couldn't see the database dump file)

 

[lecky]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mugdecoffee /img/forum/go_quote.gif I got a pair of T50RPv2's a few days ago and have been thoroughly enjoying them in the library. They are my only closed phones and they isolate very well which is great for studying. When they were stock I thought they sounded terrible: no highs, distant sound, everything just seemed blurry. So far I've stuck a pretty thick piece of papery felt type material I found in our basement on the back of the driver which made the highs come out. I also added weatherstripping all alone the sides of the cup which got rid of all the congestion. The downside though is that one or both of the mods sapped all the bass out (though to be fair I've been listening to my HF-2 s otherwise which have lots of solid bass). Right now I've got the bass EQ'd way up in foobar and the result is excellent especially considering the price. My only complaint is that they are missing some warmth which I'd like to get back. Any other damping/modding suggestions? This summer I plan to try the Thunderpants guide if I can find the tools to do so.

You can put mass damping on all of the inside of the cup and baffle, avoiding the vents. Another option for a mass damping material might be butyl tape - butyl is used in dynamat, the tape isn't backed with foil and can be very cheap. Obviously any damping needs to avoid the drivers.

It seems to me that you might have overdamped the driver. I use a quite light material for damping, but held in place with a disc of reticulated foam - the foam was important to me, holding the damping firmly and evenly against the driver. I use a reflex dot made of micropore (more gently than a solid reflex dot).

Keep experimenting, you'll get there...