Hutnicks
Headphoneus Supremus
- Joined
- Jun 16, 2012
- Posts
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Quote:
It would be interesting to get one of those drivers in a chamber (small box preferably MDF open at both ends) And progressively close each end to see how A) the freq response changes and B) what the power draw actually is.
I'm thinking that with the number variations in Freq and power rating maybe they should be call Entropic headphones rather than orthodynamics
[size=12.727272033691406px] I don't see any differences between the T20-40-50RP series except for the damping:[/size]
[size=12.727272033691406px] [/size]
[size=12.727272033691406px] 1. T50RP = Stiff black felt over the internal lower cup vents allows limited venting [/size]
[size=12.727272033691406px] A plastic cap seals the central headband screw compartment[/size]
[size=12.727272033691406px] [/size]
[size=12.727272033691406px] 2. T40RP mk II = A rectangle of plastic seals the internal lower cup vents allows no venting[/size]
[size=12.727272033691406px] A plastic cap covers the central headband screw compartment but has a ~ 4 mm hole in the center[/size]
[size=12.727272033691406px] [/size]
[size=12.727272033691406px] 3. T20RP mk II = A more "open" or porous plastic grid material over the internal lower cup vents allows for more venting than T50RP[/size]
[size=12.727272033691406px] No cap over the central headband screw compartment[/size]
[size=12.727272033691406px] [/size]
[size=12.727272033691406px] So, Damping/Resistance from greatest to least: T40RP mk II > T50RP > T20RP mk II[/size]
[size=12.727272033691406px] [/size]
[size=12.727272033691406px] Equivalent SQ and FR is possible from all three with a few simple modifications to compensate for different damping schemes/resistance from model to model. You could try these reversible additions to your preferred mod configuration:[/size]
[size=12.727272033691406px] [/size]
[size=12.727272033691406px] 1. For T40RP mk II + Cover the hole in the central headband screw compartment cap with tape [/size]
[size=12.727272033691406px] Remove the plastic rectangle covering the internal lower cup vents[/size]
[size=12.727272033691406px] Use rubber cement to secure a rectangle of craft felt over the lower internal cup vents.[/size]
[size=12.727272033691406px] [/size]
[size=12.727272033691406px] 2. For T20RP mk II + Cover the central headband screw compartment with tape[/size]
[size=12.727272033691406px] [size=12.727272033691406px] Cover the plastic mesh overlaying the internal cup vents with thin craft felt[/size][/size]
[size=12.727272033691406px] [/size]
[size=12.727272033691406px] [/size]
[size=12.727272033691406px] I wonder if the power rating (2 watts vs 3 watts) has to do with the differences in damping schemes/resistance of the 3 "different" models? But wait. T20/40RP mk II are rated at 2 watts. T20RP mk II has porous mesh over the vents and no cap vs T40RP mk II has sealed vents and a 4 mm hole in the cap vs T50RP has semi-porous felt over the vents and sealed caps. Could the cap configuration be partially responsible for the power ratings??[/size]
[size=12.727272033691406px] [/size]
It would be interesting to get one of those drivers in a chamber (small box preferably MDF open at both ends) And progressively close each end to see how A) the freq response changes and B) what the power draw actually is.
I'm thinking that with the number variations in Freq and power rating maybe they should be call Entropic headphones rather than orthodynamics