Dec 30, 2012 at 10:01 AM Post #20,911 of 27,306
Quote:
They look great, and the drivers look like they were placed stock from the store
 
  I never thought about the HD25 pads always assumed they were too small for stuff but they look good actually, even the velour is tempting. Could you let me know what the outer and inner measurements are  for those pads if you get a chance.
 
Thanks for posting all that. Tell us how they sound after you rest up. Looks like a lot of work already.
 
one layer of that stuff either pressed to the cup back with thin foam or against the driver with thin foam may be enough, I recall taking most of it out of a few that I used more than 1 layer in. The bamboo crud is a little thinner though.

 
I haven't changed the dampening yet, but with the velour + 1 layer of arctic cotton, the headphones are noticeably bright. Also its brightness is in the border of being sibilant. It will create that sssSS sound then it will suddenly stop. I think the short sibilance depends with the setup though, because I don't hear the same thing with my desktop setup ("super" cmoy/arrow 4g and modded creative CT4760 soundcard) while it is there when i use my portable setup (sony F800 and headstage arrow) Also, treble abit sounds grainy and less crisp compared to the previous frame using the Acoustipack foam which I liked the treble coming out from it. Midrange is still sweet and lush, just i remembered when I used it in the other frame. Bass is present but i think it needs more impact, bass body is clearly there and more than enough for my needs. Imaging is great, just like how i remember how it sounds when the driver is in the previous frame. 
 
Also, It sounds abit veiled straight from a DAP even at max volume, so amping it really helps. 
 
 
EDIT: Poweramp App is causing the sibilance for some reason, i tried the stock walkman app and jetaudio app and i did not hear it there. =/
 
Dec 30, 2012 at 2:50 PM Post #20,912 of 27,306
My First Attempt to Modify Amfiton TDS-5M
 
A few months ago, a good friend in Belrus sent me a pristine set of Amfiton TDS-5M headphones. I briefly listened and generally liked what I heard except for bass bloat into the midrange. I was busy with other projects and put them away. This morning I unboxed my TDS-5M for another listen. The mids sounded pretty good but slightly muffled due to moderately uncontrolled bass. The treble rolled off too early. Time to try my hand at modifying vintage Russian orthos!
 
I had trouble removing the baffle until I discovered the 5th screw. I easily found screws at 12 o'clock, 3 o'clock, 9 o'clock. More careful inspection revealed two screws at 6 o'clock on either side of the cable entry. After that, the modification was easy-breezy.
 
A previous owner (not my friend) had installed some type of fabric material inside the cups. I took that out and rummaged through my many boxes of modding materials for something that might work better. Another very good friend has sent me all kinds of materials over the past 6 months. In one large envelope, I spotted something that might be just the ticket. It was labeled, "Insole Felt - Cheap. will send more if you like it." I held it up to the light, squeezed it between my fingers, and looked it over from all angles. Hmmmm, just might be worth a try. I marked 8 mm width. I used a ruler and x-acto knife to slice my way through. I measured the needed lengths and cut segments that would fit between the cup screw compartments. I was hoping this material would more effectively dampen the cup vents and tame that nasty bass bloat without losing bass impact.
 
Next, I considered the rolled off treble. There is no room in the cups for cotton and/or fiberglass. I decided to keep the stock yellow foam puck and add a reflector on the back of the driver. I used a U.S. quarter as my template and cut out 24 mm disks from a Go Pro box. I punched a hole in the center of the disks and placed one over each driver covering the two inner rings of holes.
 
If I could tame the bass and elevate the treble, I figured the midrange would pretty much take care of itself based on experience modding Fostex T50/40/20RP and vintage Fostex 'phones.
 
Two hours later I had them all closed up and ready to use. So, how do they sound? Fantastic! The bass is indeed controlled without losing extension, texture, or speed. The bass bloat is gone. The treble opened up with rich detail free of harshness. And, the midrange took care of itself.
 
 

 
TDS-5M
 
 
 

 
Sony Pads?
 
 
 

 
Ear side of driver = 55 mm
 
 
 

 
Rear side of driver
 
 
 

 
TDS-5M opened
 
 
 

 
Empty cup
 
 
 

 
Remove the Goo
 
 
 

 
^
 
 

 
Limp felt gasket on baffles and Nick's insole felt cut to fit between the cups' screw compartments.
 
 
 

 
Stock yellow puck surrounded by segments of Insole Felt cut to fit between screw compartments = 8 mm x 9 mm 
 
 
 

 
I used a coin (a quarter) as a template to cut a 24 mm reflector from thin card stock to cover the two inner rings of holes.
 
 
 

 
Insole Felt Partially Compressed, Limp Felt Gasket on Baffle, sample of Uncompressed Insole Felt. I used a mini-screwdriver to push the felt down.
 
 
 

 
Compressed Insole Felt around Driver
 
 
 

 
The other driver with stock yellow puck, insole felt, and card stock reflector.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Dec 30, 2012 at 7:25 PM Post #20,913 of 27,306
^
 
Now you guys have me thinking about the HP-1 again. I'll give it a listen again.
 
 I'll post pics and open them up again if i get time, it'll be more for my notes than anything because I forgot what was done
confused_face.gif
  
Nice work Dyaems and BMF.
Good to see some activity in here.
 
Dec 30, 2012 at 9:34 PM Post #20,914 of 27,306
I know this is beat to death, but I have spent many years trying to keep my Yh-100's alive. I have had many cans, but always ended up putting " the beasts" back on sooner or later. Unfortunately in my youth I did not really appreciate them as they should have been, and my repairs were sometimes a little rough. Now, I truly wish to restore them to their former glory. Obviously if any body has parts or a junked set they would part with, please let me know. Also I am looking for the dimensions of the original headband, which was foolishly tossed in the mid nineties. Any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated.
 
Dec 30, 2012 at 10:34 PM Post #20,915 of 27,306
Quote:
I know this is beat to death, but I have spent many years trying to keep my Yh-100's alive. I have had many cans, but always ended up putting " the beasts" back on sooner or later. Unfortunately in my youth I did not really appreciate them as they should have been, and my repairs were sometimes a little rough. Now, I truly wish to restore them to their former glory. Obviously if any body has parts or a junked set they would part with, please let me know. Also I am looking for the dimensions of the original headband, which was foolishly tossed in the mid nineties. Any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated.

 
this is for your headband problem assuming hp1 headband is the same as yh100 headband: http://home.hccnet.nl/joop.nijenhuis/headwize/rhp1be.htm
 
Dec 31, 2012 at 1:35 AM Post #20,916 of 27,306
Hello all,

First, I want to say that I have learned an incredible amount from this thread.  A special thanks to Wualta, EricJ, Spritzer, Sachu and the many other Orthodynamic and headphone experts who have contributed so much to this thread.  You are all experts and very generous in your sharing of information about vintage Orthodynamics.

For 30 years I have been an audio fanatic, as you can probably figure out from my signature.  I will skip the laborious details, other than to say that when it comes to headphones, I have been a devoted fan of electrostatic headphones, particularly Stax headphones.  I love my Lambda, Gamma and SRX Mark III cans equally, each for different reasons and qualities.  I never, ever thought I'd find something that I liked as much or perhaps more, let alone something portable.  I have several pairs of high end in ear monitors, as well as some very good dynamic cans (Sennheiser HD580 in particular).

Well, earlier this year I discovered Orthodynamics.  I was doing some research on other types of headphones and came across this thread.  Needless to say, it took weeks to get through this thread and others, and do the proper research.  Over the past several months, I've acquired two pairs of Yamaha YH2, a pair of Yamaha YH3, two pairs of Yamaha YH1, Fostex TR50RP, and this past week, my ultimate Orthodynamic--The Yahama YH100.  I have worked on various damping schemes and reflex dots for all of the Orthos.  

Today, I worked on damping schemes for the YH100.  As much as I LOVE my YH1s, having what I considered a perfect damping scheme, the YH100, properly damped, is in an entire new league. Its bass is so much deeper and more plentiful than the YH1.  The highs are clearer, more extended, more liquid than the YH1.  The midrange is rounder, more liquid than the YH1.  In short, the YH100 is about as electrostatic sounding as a non-electrostatic headphone can be, but with some of the qualities of a dynamic.  Its got tremendous, deep, tight bass.  It's got tremendous dynamic and transient response.  It's got a pitch black darkness when called for in low passages.  It's got a sense of space and size as do electrostatics.  But somehow, some way, it is more organic, more natural, warmer than electrostatics.

To say I am surprised is an understatement.  I never, ever thought I'd hear something that I preferred over my Stax cans.  I can now say that I reach for the YH1 or YH100 more than the Stax.  The YH100 is quite a bit better than the YH1.  After I put them back together today, took them back apart twice, and finalized my damping scheme, my jaw just dropped at how good they sounded.

I just wanted to let everyone know how much I appreciate this thread, especially Wualta.  I have been lurking for so long, and felt it was time to make a contribution.

Lastly, to let others know how I have damped the YH100, it's actually quite simple, as opposed to Tomek and others.  I settled on one layer of thick Michael's acrylic felt, cut to be the full size of the enclosure, and small cut outs to match the yellow foam so that I could place the new felt around the screw posts.  The original foam remains in place.  Underneath the original foam I placed a small bit of cotton at the metal pivote plate.  On top of the original foam is the thick felt.  I did not use a reflex dot as the highs are plentiful with just the additional felt.  I went through 3 iterations of damping, but settled on this as the best combo.

Earlier, I had 2 layers of the felt, one on each side of the foam, and while the headphone had incredible speed and transient response, the bass was too tight and quick, but lacking in depth and heft.  I also tried a reflex dot, but the highs were too bright so I removed it.

I am so pleased by these headphones....I think my orthodynamic search has ended.  To get something better in the Ortho line would require getting either the Yamaha YH1000, which would be nearly impossible and very expensive, or some of the new Audeze or HiFiMan models that would cost way too much in my opinion.

I was lucky--I got these on Ebay and they arrived in perfect condition.  Frames, leather, plastic leather guides, earpads, cord and all were just perfect.  It was if these were not used at all over the past 30 years and had been in storage.

Anyway, just thought I would share my story for others to learn a bit from.

Regards,

Jazzphile

p.s.  You can tell I'm a bit obsessive about this stuff from my collection cited above as well as what's in my signature.
 
Dec 31, 2012 at 5:08 PM Post #20,917 of 27,306
Thanks for the kind words. The YH-100 is a longtime favorite. One of those headphones that starts sounding so good so fast that modding-obsession sets in. You were lucky to get one at all, and I hope for a reasonable price.
 
For those that don't have one nearby, Michaels is a chain of craft stores in the US. Though I didn't get mine there, I imagine their acrylic felt is the same cheap stuff I described in my earliest posts.
 
bluemonkeyflyer: Very interesting take on the TDS-5M, and excellent photos. Thanks! I too believe that the midrange can/should take care of itself. Fortunately, all the vintage ortho drivers had their fundamental resonance centered in the upper or middle bass. When you come to deal with one of the typical electret headphones, this changes.
 
Dec 31, 2012 at 6:14 PM Post #20,919 of 27,306
Yes. The Michaels felt sells in small sheets for about $1 to $2 per sheet, depending on quality. Mine was the cheapest, densest one I could find.

I could see modifying a bit more down the road after i get a good handle on the sound quality and character of the yh100. The bass is so deep, tight and prominent, yet a bit fat too. Really good for funk.

I also really love my YH1s. Their mids are just a bit fatter than the yh100, perhaps due to the fact that the highs and lowest bass are slightly rolled off compared to the yh100. Both have incredible transient response and sound so organic.

Put simply, what I like so much about the ortho sound is that it sounds like McIntosh or Marantz tube gear from the 60's. Liquid, smooth, dynamic.

Wualta--you created a monster here. ;-). What was your final, best yh100 damping scheme, if you don't mind my asking?
 
Dec 31, 2012 at 8:31 PM Post #20,920 of 27,306

Quote:
What was your final, best yh100 damping scheme, if you don't mind my asking?

 
[sotto voce] Don't tell anyone, but, ah, there is no final best damping scheme. At least I never found one where I could say to myself "Now THIS is permanent. This, THIS is the proverbial 'it' !" The Finalbest is a mythical beast with many heads and restless, shufflin' feet.
 
JadeEast: Yes! the Canades can finally get they craft on, even on Cape Breton, so if Kate Beaton ever goes home she can make hersel' a fine Tam O' Shanter.
 
Dec 31, 2012 at 8:53 PM Post #20,921 of 27,306
Question that I have not seen addressed here in the 1400 or so pages of this thread:  Do particular models all require the exact same damping?  For example, I have two sets of YH1 headphones.  If I damp both exactly in the same manner, are the drivers manufactured with tight enough tolerances as to require the same damping scheme to sound exactly the same?
 
Another way of saying it:  From the factory, assuming no degradation over time, is there a variance in sound from one set of headphones to another (same model)?  If so, then different damping schemes might make sense from can to can.
 
I have thought a lot about this over the past year.  For every set of ears, there is a preferred damping scheme.  This is a personal preference based on our listening experiences, associated gear, etc.  But could it also be due to variances in drivers from headphone to headphone?
 
Happy New Year.
 
Dec 31, 2012 at 10:12 PM Post #20,923 of 27,306
Quote:
Question that I have not seen addressed here in the 1400 or so pages of this thread:  Do particular models all require the exact same damping?  For example, I have two sets of YH1 headphones.  If I damp both exactly in the same manner, are the drivers manufactured with tight enough tolerances as to require the same damping scheme to sound exactly the same?
 
Another way of saying it:  From the factory, assuming no degradation over time, is there a variance in sound from one set of headphones to another (same model)?  If so, then different damping schemes might make sense from can to can.
 
I have thought a lot about this over the past year.  For every set of ears, there is a preferred damping scheme.  This is a personal preference based on our listening experiences, associated gear, etc.  But could it also be due to variances in drivers from headphone to headphone?
 
Happy New Year.

We have addressed that question, and the answers are mostly good heavens​ no, with a final Yes, I agree, damping case-by-case makes sense. The TOTL models are the most consistent. Unfortunately, there's no way to assume no degradation over time, since all the Yama orthos are now well-aged. So yes, due to manufacturing/aging variations, some people got six-sigma samples and needed drastically different mod strategies. But.
 
Having said that, even if there were a mod that guaranteed a perfect, linear driver with a measurably flat response at the earhole, many people wouldn't want it. In fact, many people would hate it. So it's fortunate that there's enough vintage ortho wiggle room to suit personal preferences, with the default being a very relaxed, bassy sound that only electrostatistas would find objectionable.
 

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