[maverickronin]

Quote:

@ Maverickronin A lot a times dynamat can give negative results as it can deaden resonances too much causing recessed sound. Personally, I haven't experienced this but I've read that that this happens quite a bit. I Have a little dynamat in my woodied T50rp, and it works extremely well for me. 

 
In general shouldn't the driver be the only thing that resonates?  There are some exceptions like Grados which actually rely on the shell resonating (FWIR on the SR60 mod thread anyway) but normally the cup should be acoustically dead, right?

 

[Kabeer]

All this talk of L55, ATH2 and Vectorscan. Boilermakerfan has a boxed set of ATH2 and a boxed of the rarer vectorscan for sale if anyone is interested.
 
On my end of things, Im looking for a headband for my Wharfie project still, does anyone have an Akai ASE-22 (its an old 1970s headphone) they dont need much ? kinda would like to get the headband from it.
 
And cmon guys, we need more people than iQem ninja-ing up unexplored orthos . We still dont know v.much about the insides of some orthos here (Trio, Victors, etc).
Iv kinda slowed down on that front due to lack of time .

 

[nickchen]

Quote:

nichen, if you like dark side you might like ATH-2 more since this sibbling version from Sansui are a lil' bright (than the dark original ATH-2 or VSH5)...
i never found any dark on HP2, but a lil' bit bassy yes it is..
dark is what i call for NAD RP-18 bassheavy or victor HP D-50 on their stock form...
well anyway, hopefully you enjoy what you just purchase...stock or modded, it's a nice found though...

Thank you for the kind advice. Generally, I guess we all have a hard time chasing specific vintage cans, we have to look what the Bay has to offer and have to decide from case to case. Thanks to the Wiki, I think I have all those others on my radar as well meanwhile.
 
In respect of the Sansui, I think its easier to tame a rich sounding thing than to extend the displayed freqencies of a dull sounding thing. As long as I don't have to tame brightness of the SA5K sort...

 

[Bigrock2150]

Quote:

 
In general shouldn't the driver be the only thing that resonates?  There are some exceptions like Grados which actually rely on the shell resonating (FWIR on the SR60 mod thread anyway) but normally the cup should be acoustically dead, right?

I believe all shell/cups resonate to some degree (especially when they're made of plastic). I think this is what makes a woody cup sound so amazing with the t50rp. I also believe this is why they sound so terrible when you don't properly damp the wooden cup. This is why everyone in the ortho thread are experimenting with what is the best damping technique for their orthos. 

 

[rhythmdevils]

Quote:

RD, did you try taping first one side of the driver, then the other, to see which sounded better?

I haven't tried different sides much, I just had a strong preference for the idea of having the driver open at the front, because of not wanting the driver to sound like it's behind me and because the ears are tilted towards the front.  But I'll have to give it a shot.  Ideally, I think it would be better to just get it sounding right behind the driver. 
 
Quote:

@ RD:
you might want to try add several holes match to the gril size (in diametre) on the centre of the tapes, weither micropore or transpore to let the air flow a lil bit on the midrange..do it safely, you not want any holes onto your driver cos doing that directly when attached to the driver..
do some trial error on many holes to the transpore, like star shape or hexagram and so on, you choice..
just remember to add 1 holes precisely at the center..goodluck!

Thanks for the tips!  Yes, the middle of the driver does seem to be connected to the midrange somehow.  When the middle is covered and not the sides, it seems to just kill all signs of life in the midrange. Maybe I can cover the whole drivever with a layer of tape, and then use a razor to cut out some different shapes.  I don't think a razor will hurt the magnet if I'm careful...
 
Quote:

@whitney, I was just remembering that when I recommended Dynamat (at the meet) to lessen the mids and treble I forgot that you drilled all those holes. Covering them up with dynamat would kind of defeat the purpose of opening them up. However if you do in fact want to get rid of some of the peaky mids, dynamat might be worth it.
 
With normal cans I believe Dynamat is a big NO NO but your situation is a bit different in that Dynamat works well with fostex orthos. 

It was good to meet you the other day!  If more head-fiers met you in person there would be way less drama about your work.  I also had the thought when you mentioned this, to attach the dynamat and then re-drill the holes but your idea might work better.  I may also have drilled too many holes I don't know.  I need to compare to my stock T20 cup.  And post some pics.  also I have some newplast coming in the mail, so that might work in there somehow. 

 

[wualta]

 
Quote:

 
In general shouldn't the driver be the only thing that resonates?  There are some exceptions like Grados which actually rely on the shell resonating (FWIR on the SR60 mod thread anyway) but normally the cup should be acoustically dead, right?

Yes. Ideally, none of it should resonate-- the driver should only produce sound when and where on the spectrum the input signal tells it to. A resonating structural bit means energy is being sucked away from the driver and spat back out both inside and outside the enclosure, over time. Some folks like to treat their headphones as musical instruments (think marimba), but though it may be enjoyable, it's not fidelity-to-the-input-waveform. The ideal enclosure should itself not resonate (tap it and listen), nor should the air enclosed inside resonate (no coconut-shell sound). If lightweight, it should be lossy and soak up vibration. If heavy, it should be nonresonant. Real wood is somewhat resonant, manufactured wood less so. Mass soaks up energy but rigidity acts as a conductor-- at the logical extreme you have a bell. You want something that will jiggle internally just enough and with enough internal resistance that it will turn the vibration into heat-- self-damping, in short. So it's a tradeoff between mass and rigidity and what we might call Q, or "lossiness", or the tendency not to ring at a single frequency or even over a band of frequencies.
 
Quote:

I just had a strong preference for the idea of having the driver open at the front, because of not wanting the driver to sound like it's behind me and because the ears are tilted towards the front.  But I'll have to give it a shot.  Ideally, I think it would be better to just get it sounding right behind the driver. ... I have some newplast coming in the mail... 

If you stick your fingers in your ears slightly, you'll notice they mainly open toward the back, catching the bounce off your outer ear. There is a little slot that opens toward the front also. The outer ear is a complex little gadget-- some simple experiments should give useful results. Where'd you get Newplast without paying with body parts for the shipping?
 

 

[rhythmdevils]

I bought something from a very kind international head-fier and I paid extra for shipping for some newplast as well. 

 

[wualta]

The nice thing about Newplast is that if it doesn't work out in your headphones you can always do a Wallace 'n' Gromit with it.

 

[Bigrock2150]

It was good to meet you the other day!  If more head-fiers met you in person there would be way less drama about your work.  I also had the thought when you mentioned this, to attach the dynamat and then re-drill the holes but your idea might work better.  I may also have drilled too many holes I don't know.  I need to compare to my stock T20 cup.  And post some pics.  also I have some newplast coming in the mail, so that might work in there somehow. 

Thanks RD, I really appreciate that man! It was really nice to meet you as well. I hope everything works out with your T20.
 
I'm glad that a few people got to see that I don't actually have horns growing out of my head

.  

 

[iQEM]

 
Quote:

All this talk of L55, ATH2 and Vectorscan. Boilermakerfan has a boxed set of ATH2 and a boxed of the rarer vectorscan for sale if anyone is interested.
 
On my end of things, Im looking for a headband for my Wharfie project still, does anyone have an Akai ASE-22 (its an old 1970s headphone) they dont need much ? kinda would like to get the headband from it.
 
And cmon guys, we need more people than iQem ninja-ing up unexplored orthos . We still dont know v.much about the insides of some orthos here (Trio, Victors, etc).
Iv kinda slowed down on that front due to lack of time .

 
same with me, kabeer..being slowed down due to lack of time, at the office offcourse..
need more ortho ninja, since both me & kabeer being slowed down cos getting old..
 
Kana for example, that i believe who had won Trio KH-92 from me *sigh*, should share about this Trio high-end...
http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/111193/orthodynamic-roundup/13680#post_6516729 to remind you...
with pict's of the trace films/driver inside, please...you still had other rare/not known ortho like SF-17 & Victor HP D30..
share em with us here, or just put em directly to wikiphonia like this one i share
http://wiki.faust3d.com/wiki/index.php?title=Victor_HP-D50

 
Quote:

Thank you for the kind advice. Generally, I guess we all have a hard time chasing specific vintage cans, we have to look what the Bay has to offer and have to decide from case to case. Thanks to the Wiki, I think I have all those others on my radar as well meanwhile.
 
In respect of the Sansui, I think its easier to tame a rich sounding thing than to extend the displayed freqencies of a dull sounding thing. As long as I don't have to tame brightness of the SA5K sort...

actually SS L55 still heard flat/balance to me, not bright too much..SS L55 just brighter than ATH2 or VSH5, that's all...
the treble are there, with a lil' issue short decay on cymbals or so on..maybe choose more sinergy setup will solve the issue...

 
Quote:

Originally Posted by rhythmdevils /img/forum/go_quote.gif
 
Thanks for the tips!  Yes, the middle of the driver does seem to be connected to the midrange somehow.  When the middle is covered and not the sides, it seems to just kill all signs of life in the midrange. Maybe I can cover the whole drivever with a layer of tape, and then use a razor to cut out some different shapes.  I don't think a razor will hurt the magnet if I'm careful...

you're welcome...and dont forget to share the result here, okay ?

 

[rhythmdevils]

Quote:

Thanks RD, I really appreciate that man! It was really nice to meet you as well. I hope everything works out with your T20.
 
I'm glad that a few people got to see that I don't actually have horns growing out of my head

.  

 
No horns.  Just big woody grado cups

 

[BoilermakerFan]

Quote:

All this talk of L55, ATH2 and Vectorscan. Boilermakerfan has a boxed set of ATH2 and a boxed of the rarer vectorscan for sale if anyone is interested.
 
On my end of things, Im looking for a headband for my Wharfie project still, does anyone have an Akai ASE-22 (its an old 1970s headphone) they dont need much ? kinda would like to get the headband from it.
 
And cmon guys, we need more people than iQem ninja-ing up unexplored orthos . We still dont know v.much about the insides of some orthos here (Trio, Victors, etc).
Iv kinda slowed down on that front due to lack of time .

Sorry, haven't logged into H-F in ages...  Not closely following any threads anymore either except the EHHA RevA and eXStatA threads.  Just too busy.
 
The ATH and Vectorscans will be properly posted for sale, along with a Yammie YH-1 and boxed ATH-7 electret when I have time to photograph them and more importantly, have time to be home to collect funds and ship them.
 
All will be sold as is.  I do not have time to tune any of them and my tuning felt supplies are greatly diminished. 
 
So please just watch the For Sale forums.  It will probably be two weeks before I list them do to work schedules.

 

[kwkarth]

Quote:

 
In general shouldn't the driver be the only thing that resonates?  There are some exceptions like Grados which actually rely on the shell resonating (FWIR on the SR60 mod thread anyway) but normally the cup should be acoustically dead, right?

Even the driver should NOT resonate.  The driver should only move when it's told to do so, never on it's own, which is what the term "resonate" would convey.  Resonance is bad, bad, bad in this context.  Grados do not rely on any resonance.  Wavelengths too long, enclosures too small.  One would never want resonance in any part of a headphone system.
 

 

[maverickronin]

You're right.  I guess I used the wrong word there.  I suppose ideally the driver is the only thing that should move or vibrate at all.
 
Is that a better way of putting it?

 

[kwkarth]

Quote:

You're right.  I guess I used the wrong word there.  I suppose ideally the driver is the only thing that should move or vibrate at all.
 
Is that a better way of putting it?

Well, "vibrate" sort of implies to my mind, a negative connotation that is related to unwanted resonance too.  As wualata put it in his excellent post (which I didn't see until after I posted my response to you, or I wouldn't have posted) one does no want any sonic energy in the system other than what the input signal calls for.  In other words, no self noise of any kind.