Orthodynamic Roundup
Aug 4, 2010 at 4:35 PM Post #15,077 of 27,158


Quote:
I have a question from NAD/T50 owners.
 
Has anyone tried removing the thin sheet pasted on the grille ?
Does it have any acoustic effect?

Yes.  I think it's the main reason they feel so "closed in" even though they leak a lot of sound.  I'm not completely removing it, but it needs to be perforated to open the cans more then allow for better tuning with proper felts.
 
 
Aug 4, 2010 at 10:16 PM Post #15,078 of 27,158


Quote:
Just remember that when the tuning effort fails, or one just wants some variation, then there is always.... cheating....
 
Here, I for instance increase that really deep bass on the LCD-1 a bit. I don't want to mess with it permanently, because it sounds spectacular as it is too.

i realize im speaking a bit out of context, here and im certainly not looking to start a flame war or anything, but...
i always find it amusing when people are willing to almost completely gut a pair of headphones or mod them in every way imaginable to perfect the sound, but they somehow dont consider using eq a part of that process.  I own Thunderpants for instance.. they sound great, but booooooooy do they sound a heck of a lot better and more balanced with some EQ and a good crossfeed... just another form of modding as far as im concerned..maybe even a better one b/c you can change drastically very easily without altering the cans physically.
 
 
Aug 5, 2010 at 12:06 AM Post #15,079 of 27,158
Quote:
Does a larger reflex dot affect treble extension or emphasis?  My ears can't tell. 

Making a reflex dot (not disc but dot) larger moves the lowest frequency being reflected back to the listener downward. In other words, if you only wanted to tweak the top octave, you'd use a very small dot, maybe several of them. That would be a way to compensate for some mild overdamping, for example. If your phone seems to have Severe Ortho Droop, you'd want to grab one of the 19mm office-supply dots. My thinking these days is that most 'phones that've been carefully damped won't need a dot that large and would benefit from that multiplicity of smaller dots idea.
Does that help? Basically the dot is trying to reflect all frequencies (it doesn't know any better-- it got a bad grade in junior-year physics), but the longer wavelengths (ie, bass and mids) just bend right around it. Thus it only ends up reflecting treble.
 
Quote:
.... cheating....

Here, I for instance increase that really deep bass on the LCD-1 a bit. I don't want to mess with it permanently, because it sounds spectacular as it is too.

Using the "discotheque" DSP, eh? No, I don't blame you a bit.


 
Quote:
I have a question from NAD/T50 owners. Has anyone tried removing the thin sheet pasted on the grille ? Does it have any acoustic effect?

It would have the same effect on FR that the Yamaha vent damping felt has-- it helps keep down bass cancellation. Does a flat grille held parallel to the diaphragm also reflect some program back at the listener? Certainly. With good absorptive materials in between, the tradeoff is a good one, imo, but others might well disagree, because the T50v1's soundstage is disappointing.

 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Br777 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
i find it amusing when people are willing to almost completely gut a pair of headphones or mod them in every way imaginable to perfect the sound, but they somehow dont consider using eq a part of that process.

We've talked about this in the past, of course, and my take on it is that a surprising number haven't heard a competent EQ circuit and have developed a kind of Anti-EQist (which is to say purist) approach that traces its origins to some high-end manufacturers of the late '70s. Live and let live, I say-- meanwhile, you're enjoying phones that would wear you down psychically without that little kick of electronic help. If the 'phones take EQ gracefully and the EQ itself is competent, how can anyone say you're deluding yourself? Especially now, when EQ can be done in the digital domain. But it's not worth getting into a religious argument about.
 
Aug 5, 2010 at 1:13 AM Post #15,080 of 27,158
Which player/EQ are you using? Might just give it a try when my T50RPs arrive.
 
Quote:
i realize im speaking a bit out of context, here and im certainly not looking to start a flame war or anything, but...
i always find it amusing when people are willing to almost completely gut a pair of headphones or mod them in every way imaginable to perfect the sound, but they somehow dont consider using eq a part of that process.  I own Thunderpants for instance.. they sound great, but booooooooy do they sound a heck of a lot better and more balanced with some EQ and a good crossfeed... just another form of modding as far as im concerned..maybe even a better one b/c you can change drastically very easily without altering the cans physically.
 



 
Aug 5, 2010 at 2:22 AM Post #15,081 of 27,158
im currently using foobar with effect chainer so i can use electri-q and isone pro together.
ive tried many variations, but i keep coming back to electri-q because its parametric, allows unlimited modification points, and is all around super easy to use IMO.
 
isone can be tweaked in many ways, but i just use it in a way that pretty dramatically expands the soundstage.
 
on a side note.. i just went on youtube and played a bunch of woofer workout tracks with my thunderpants. (( 
eek.gif
  ))  Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee! 
 
Aug 5, 2010 at 3:18 AM Post #15,082 of 27,158
I was using the reaper raeq as equalizer before I got into modding the orthos. IME, modding is easier & gives better results.
 
I also use the 5.1 version of Isone pro for movies, works pretty well. For music, I am still not convinced.
 
Aug 5, 2010 at 5:42 AM Post #15,083 of 27,158
I wonder if anyone can help me...
 
I'm at my father's home turning cups and baffles for my Thunderpants, but stupidly I didn't bring the T50RPs with me. I need to know the distance between the copper tubes of the headband (center to center) and if possible the diameter of the tubes to that I can make wooden fittings for the headband.
 
Hopefully someone has this info to hand...!
 
Lecky.
 
 
Aug 5, 2010 at 5:51 AM Post #15,084 of 27,158
distance between tubes: 7.5mm, tube diameter: 5mm minimum, 6mm max. starts to fatten at 2mm from the tip.
 
Oh yeah, are you going to drill holes on the side for the mounting pins? Ask me if you need the location of these thing as well.
 
Aug 5, 2010 at 6:01 AM Post #15,085 of 27,158
That's fantastic - amazingly quick! Thanks ujamerstand. I'll drill conservatively here with the drill-press and I can always open the holes up a bit when I get home...
 
Thanks!
 
So to be clear - that's 8.1mm centre to centre, right? (lets call it 8mm among friends...)
 
Aug 5, 2010 at 6:11 AM Post #15,087 of 27,158
It's actually a quite convincing presentation of the music being recorded in a small crowded disco. To get the feeling of being inside said disco I'd need more drivers to play the (synthesized) wall reflections. Perhaps I could build an ortho with three drivers in each cup.... Or just use speakers.
 
Quote:
 
Using the "discotheque" DSP, eh? No, I don't blame you a bit.



 
Aug 5, 2010 at 10:34 AM Post #15,088 of 27,158
Going back to page 1006, Br777 posted talking about his eq set up. Ive been wanting to try foobar for a while and im wondering how i can make my vst plugins work with it. Thanks!
 
Aug 5, 2010 at 12:55 PM Post #15,090 of 27,158
I just realised that the 4 orthos that I have come to really love have very different driver design.
 
Fostex T50RP, Audeze LCD-2, Wharfedale ID1 and the Yammy Yh-1000. The real standouts even in this group are the ID1 and the LCD-2. 
 

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