Grado modders go Magnum
Nov 22, 2011 at 10:29 AM Post #376 of 4,994
I received mine 2 days after my order. Advantage of being on Canada for once.
 
Quote:
Seems I am a little late to the party, but ordered a pair of V4's tonight. I will be installing them into a pair of Cabillas cups I got of Wayne some time ago. Let the agony of waiting for them to arrive begin :)
 
Darrendgcrane
 



 
 
Nov 22, 2011 at 5:34 PM Post #378 of 4,994


Quote:
Personally I also did not like what it did to the bass of the Grados. It became predominant AND bloated, muddy.
Now I would never think of punching a Magnum driver, neither the V3.5's nor the V4's. It is just that the bass of the V4's reminds me of a bassmod that did not go wrong (like with all the Gradessandros I tried it on)  but resulted in the desired effect.


I just had some SR-80s on last week that were paired with wooden cups.  All the holes were opened on the drivers.  The bass was actually kind of yucky.  This same situation happens with subwoofers in one's home.  When people buy a really good subwoofer that does an excellent job of providing solid bass (and in phase, too), they usually would post on the forums that they thought there would be a lot more slam like their old (fill in the blank) subwoofer did, which was 1/3 the cost.  The cheaper subwoofers would appear and sound like they were providing more slam - yet, it was also at the expense of more distortion and less "quality" bass so it could delivery "quantity" bass. 
confused.gif

 
 
 
Nov 23, 2011 at 1:43 AM Post #379 of 4,994


Quote:
I just had some SR-80s on last week that were paired with wooden cups.  All the holes were opened on the drivers.  The bass was actually kind of yucky.  This same situation happens with subwoofers in one's home.  When people buy a really good subwoofer that does an excellent job of providing solid bass (and in phase, too), they usually would post on the forums that they thought there would be a lot more slam like their old (fill in the blank) subwoofer did, which was 1/3 the cost.  The cheaper subwoofers would appear and sound like they were providing more slam - yet, it was also at the expense of more distortion and less "quality" bass so it could delivery "quantity" bass. 
confused.gif

 
 


Somehow it's how I feel regarding my AD700 vs MS1000, I feel that the quality of the bass on the AD700 is better than the MS1000 but the quantity is more on the MS1000...
 
 
Nov 24, 2011 at 9:35 PM Post #380 of 4,994
I've ordered V4 drivers 2 weeks ago.
 
Thanks Rhydon, he ship them out very fast, my sister in Minneapolis received them after 1 day.But they take a long way to get to my home :D
 
I'm waiting for my wood cups.Going the hybrid way
beyersmile.png

 

 
 
 
 
 
Nov 24, 2011 at 11:00 PM Post #381 of 4,994

Very cool. I hope mine ship out omorrow as stated. 
Quote:
I've ordered V4 drivers 2 weeks ago.
 
Thanks Rhydon, he ship them out very fast, my sister in Minneapolis received them after 1 day.But they take a long way to get to my home :D
 
I'm waiting for my wood cups.Going the hybrid way
beyersmile.png

 

 
 
 
 



 
 
 
Nov 25, 2011 at 2:23 PM Post #383 of 4,994


Quote:
You modders are so lucky in getting the V4 drivers early......aaarrrgghhhh



+1 I'm feeling your pain Nick !!!
 
Nov 27, 2011 at 2:02 AM Post #384 of 4,994
Say one owns a pair of magnums (lites v 2.5) and If one buys a set of cups from Martins,  do they come with the size to be cut for magnums so one doesn't resort to electrical tape?
 
Also when getting these cups do they cinclude with the "insert"  such that one could try the HF2 style (Hybrid) with wooden insert and aluminum cup, vice versa, and full wood ?
 
Nov 27, 2011 at 1:39 PM Post #385 of 4,994


Quote:
Say one owns a pair of magnums (lites v 2.5) and If one buys a set of cups from Martins,  do they come with the size to be cut for magnums so one doesn't resort to electrical tape?
 
Also when getting these cups do they cinclude with the "insert"  such that one could try the HF2 style (Hybrid) with wooden insert and aluminum cup, vice versa, and full wood ?



1) If i remember correctly v2.5 is a bit of a different size from the normal grado drivers, Marty would probably either need very exact measurements or the drivers themselves to make the fit so nice that you don't need a bit of tape to fit them. However, a bit of tape really won't affect anything, at least nobody has noticed.
 
2) you can buy the aluminum inners from rhydon at symphones. However, the cost is the same as the drivers at $120.00. some people will tell you to get a full woody, others will say to keep the driver in aluminum, where it was designed to be.. Personally, I trust rhydon entirely after hearing how wonderful these drivers are and I wanted to stay 100% faithful to his design, so I went full aluminum. 
 
Nov 27, 2011 at 2:27 PM Post #386 of 4,994


Quote:
1) If i remember correctly v2.5 is a bit of a different size from the normal grado drivers, Marty would probably either need very exact measurements or the drivers themselves to make the fit so nice that you don't need a bit of tape to fit them. However, a bit of tape really won't affect anything, at least nobody has noticed.
 
2) you can buy the aluminum inners from rhydon at symphones. However, the cost is the same as the drivers at $120.00. some people will tell you to get a full woody, others will say to keep the driver in aluminum, where it was designed to be.. Personally, I trust rhydon entirely after hearing how wonderful these drivers are and I wanted to stay 100% faithful to his design, so I went full aluminum. 



Thanks I bought these used so wouldn't know,  I have a pair of V4's on order so I will look at the differences.  
 
I guess I am confused at what is the sleeve vs inner vs cups vs liberated driver.
 
Since I ordered the full V4  with gimbals and all I wanted to keep these stock.   But these V2's or V2.5's (can't tell which one they are) are the lite version.  Anyway I guess I wanted to try wood with these.   So I am not sure what to order.  They sound great at medium/normal listening volume but get pretty shouty when I want to crank them up.   I guess I should email Marty but not sure what lingo/nomenclature to use.
 
What I see are normal 325is cups,  then an aluminum "ring with set screws that hold the driver,  this ring is etched "Magnum".
 
I take it to separate the outer grado cup from the aluminum insert (with the setscrews) I would need to figure out how to take off the plastic gimballs,  remove the set-screws/drivers and heat up the cups until the "insert comes out" ?
 
Then Marty's standard wooden cups would hot glue right over the aluminum insert?  And then if I wanted to replace the magnum insert (with the setscrews for the driver) with wood I would need the tape around the black portion of the driver?
 
I had a used pair of HF-2's from ebay but didn't think they sounded "grado" enough (a bit dull for my tastes, especially the midrange was recessed to my ears.)If I remember right these had an aluminum "cup" with a wooden insert.  Now I also had a pair of Allesandro Pros a long time and loved these but ended up selling on ebay when I got the Magnums which were clearer to my ears.
 
So any recommendations on which direction to go I would appreciate,  I do plan on making this a DIY job so I can compare/contrast.
 
 
Nov 28, 2011 at 12:45 AM Post #387 of 4,994
Those are probably V2.5's. Since that was around the time Rhydon started etching magnum into the inner housing. I'm not sure how you would take out the inner housing from the shell, might need to ship it back for them to do, probably best to ask Rhydon himself. The plastic gimbals are easy to remove, they stretch a little so you can just pry them off using a flat head screwdriver. You could probably use glue or some blutack putty to hold the wood into aluminum housing, looks like some already had them done, might be good to ask them. To hold the driver into the wood you could use some felt tape that holds them in place. Should let Marty know so that he can create exact measurements. 
 
Nov 28, 2011 at 1:45 AM Post #388 of 4,994


Quote:
Thanks I bought these used so wouldn't know,  I have a pair of V4's on order so I will look at the differences.  
 
I guess I am confused at what is the sleeve vs inner vs cups vs liberated driver.
 
Since I ordered the full V4  with gimbals and all I wanted to keep these stock.   But these V2's or V2.5's (can't tell which one they are) are the lite version.  Anyway I guess I wanted to try wood with these.   So I am not sure what to order.  They sound great at medium/normal listening volume but get pretty shouty when I want to crank them up.   I guess I should email Marty but not sure what lingo/nomenclature to use.
 
What I see are normal 325is cups,  then an aluminum "ring with set screws that hold the driver,  this ring is etched "Magnum".
 
I take it to separate the outer grado cup from the aluminum insert (with the setscrews) I would need to figure out how to take off the plastic gimballs,  remove the set-screws/drivers and heat up the cups until the "insert comes out" ?
 
Then Marty's standard wooden cups would hot glue right over the aluminum insert?  And then if I wanted to replace the magnum insert (with the setscrews for the driver) with wood I would need the tape around the black portion of the driver?
 
I had a used pair of HF-2's from ebay but didn't think they sounded "grado" enough (a bit dull for my tastes, especially the midrange was recessed to my ears.)If I remember right these had an aluminum "cup" with a wooden insert.  Now I also had a pair of Allesandro Pros a long time and loved these but ended up selling on ebay when I got the Magnums which were clearer to my ears.
 
So any recommendations on which direction to go I would appreciate,  I do plan on making this a DIY job so I can compare/contrast.
 


If you want to go wood with this V2/V2.5's, you would first have to make sure how to remove the alu inners from the 325 cups. I do not know of anybody who has already done this, so I guess you  should PM Rhydon to find out how best to do this. Because nobody knows what Rhydon uses for his air chambers to be held secure in the alu outers.
Then you could ask Marty to make slip-on woodies, which would welcome any standard Grado inners and also Magnum alu inners. That way you would end up with a kind of alu-inner/wood-outer hybrid. Which some of us have gone for. But I guess you will basically end up with alu sound and wood outers for aestetics.
Plus, if you wanted to have a full wood alternative, you could ask Marty to make wood inners (HF2-like) along with slip-on wooden outers. Then you would be free to try the wood outers with alu AND wood inners. Just to make sure what you like better.
Wood might help slightly with respect to the shoutiness, but do not expect too much. It is the drivers, like RS1 drivers, which create that sort of shoutiness around the 10kHz region.
I have not heard the V2's, but I own the V3.5's, and they have that kind of peakiness too. Some like this forwardness, others do not.
It is the V4's, to my ears, that significantly trim down that peakiness.
 
 
Nov 28, 2011 at 5:20 AM Post #389 of 4,994
I read somewhere that Rhydon pressure-fits the upper and inner cup together, which would make it extremely difficult to remove unaided.
 
Nov 28, 2011 at 7:46 AM Post #390 of 4,994
Stratocasther, do you have to crank the volume up with the Ultimate Magnum than the original Magnum ?
 
 
 
I think this problem was caused both by driver design and amplifier.The amplifier may have enough voltage swing, but not enough current.
Quote:
 
 They sound great at medium/normal listening volume but get pretty shouty when I want to crank them up.  



 
 
 
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top