[onefatsurfer]

I am using Mogami w2893 from Redco and am very pleased with the quality of it.  It's not the absolute highest quality copper, but the shielding is good, the cable feels supple yet sturdy, and looks classy.  
 
http://www.redco.com/Mogami-W2893.html

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

Just thought I would reiterate the most successful accepted technique for recabling is to cut the stock wire leaving about 1- 1&1/2" of the stock wire attached to the driver so as not to solder directly to it. BMF, I know you are aware of this, might be worthwhile to include it as a warning in the "mods" post, if you haven't already. I would also like to personally thank you for your dedication to this process, enabling me to achieve great success with my mod.

My pleasure. I'm just happy you found a configuration that works for you. Way to go!

 

[onionskin]

  I am using Mogami w2893 from Redco and am very pleased with the quality of it.  It's not the absolute highest quality copper, but the shielding is good, the cable feels supple yet sturdy, and looks classy.  
 
http://www.redco.com/Mogami-W2893.html

Looks promising and I really like the price because I'm not interested in throwing 2 bens at a $90 headphone (I'm clocked in at around $170 to date).  My goal is maximum SQ for minimum investment and so far have exceeded my most optimistic dreams.

 

[onefatsurfer]

Cable, for the most part, is a complete waste of money. The interconnect between the dac and amp matters, because any electromagnetic interference noise will be amplified, but the actual headphone cable won't make much difference, so long as it doesn't have any shorts and doesn't drastically affect the impedance of the headphones. The mogami sounds excellent to my ears

 

[onionskin]

yeah I don't go in much for cable religion either...or at least have realistic expectations.  I figure the t50's come with really cheap wire though, and at least with speakers I can hear a difference between cheap and competent wire.  I have never recabled a headphone but figure the t50 is a good victim to experiment on.
I have no EMF to worry about, especially given the short runs I am dealing with.  I can crank my Asgard full open and there is no noise just pure black.  I use the cheap PYST stubby interconnects schiit sells.

 

[satwilson]

  yeah I don't go in much for cable religion either...or at least have realistic expectations.  I figure the t50's come with really cheap wire though, and at least with speakers I can hear a difference between cheap and competent wire.  I have never recabled a headphone but figure the t50 is a good victim to experiment on.
I have no EMF to worry about, especially given the short runs I am dealing with.  I can crank my Asgard full open and there is no noise just pure black.  I use the cheap PYST stubby interconnects schiit sells.

@ onionskin, +1 for mogami, I use that also. The stock cable has really tiny wires and in my opinion a cable upgrade to 20-26ga provides tangible improvement in the sound for these current hungry phones. I have also used wire from Ebay vendor "navships", he has a more boutique line of silver plated/ OF copper mil spec high quality wire for reasonable prices. About $1.30/ft. satwilson



1 of 2 images

10 feet 24 AWG Shielded Silver Teflon Wire Twisted Pair

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

 
@ onionskin, +1 for mogami, I use that also. The stock cable has really tiny wires and in my opinion a cable upgrade to 20-26ga provides tangible improvement in the sound for these current hungry phones. I have also used wire from Ebay vendor "navships", he has a more boutique line of silver plated/ OF copper mil spec high quality wire for reasonable prices. About $1.30/ft. satwilson



1 of 2 images

10 feet 24 AWG Shielded Silver Teflon Wire Twisted Pair

I've used navships' 19 strand SPC wire for microphones and driver repairs/transplants. It soaks up solder like a sponge. Works great and cheap.
 
I will get some of what you recommend, above.
 
Thanks!

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

'nick n' and I have been bouncing ideas off one another for months. I posted my take on his novel modification scheme at the bottom of Post #1 of this thread. Look for "nick n's Memory Foam Mod." The sound is wonderful.
 
NOTE: nick is finalizing an improved version of his "Memory Foam Mod" and may...hopefully...post his methods and results, here....stay tuned.

 

[onionskin]

 
@ onionskin, +1 for mogami, I use that also. The stock cable has really tiny wires and in my opinion a cable upgrade to 20-26ga provides tangible improvement in the sound for these current hungry phones. I have also used wire from Ebay vendor "navships", he has a more boutique line of silver plated/ OF copper mil spec high quality wire for reasonable prices. About $1.30/ft.

Thanks for the hookup for the err, hookup wire satwilson.  Looks like excellent stuff at reasonable prices, even cheaper than Apexjr.  I wonder where he gets it all, must be a military boneyard close by.

 

[satwilson]

  Thanks for the hookup for the err, hookup wire satwilson.  Looks like excellent stuff at reasonable prices, even cheaper than Apexjr.  I wonder where he gets it all, must be a military boneyard close by.

onionskin,
                     John, who is navships, is very forthcoming to reveal his sources. This is not military surplus, he buys directly from the military sources. I think this cable comes from Astro Industries. They provide wire to NASA, Army, USAF, etc. Really cool stuff, super hi/tech. Enjoy!

 

[Lohb]

If you are going to terminate cables inside, is there a way to stop cable tear out if you say step on the cable etc ?
I was weighing up M-XLR vs direct termination.

 

[Thujone]

  If you are going to terminate cables inside, is there a way to stop cable tear out if you say step on the cable etc ?
I was weighing up M-XLR vs direct termination.

Grado's have a very simple yet effective solution for this. They make sure there is enough excess cable on the inside of the cup and put a zip-tie around it. Since the zip-tie is larger than the cable hole, any time you step on the cable should only stretch the rubber housing and not ever pull on the driver itself.

 

[Smugsie]

I have a question.

Is the Maddog with alpha pads, the exact same headphone as the T50RP with alpha pads?

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

  I have a question.

Is the Maddog with alpha pads, the exact same headphone as the T50RP with alpha pads?

Yes and No.
 
Yes, they are both T50RP headphones.
 
No, Mr.Speakers' Mad Dogs are custom damped and tuned whereas a stock T50RP is damped with a single rectangle of stiffened felt covering the inside of the 4 cup vent slots. Adding Alpha Pads will change the sound of stock T50RPs. That said, however, you cannot transform a set of stock T50RP into Mad Dogs simply by installing Alpha Pads in place of the stock pads.
 
You would likely be best served posting your questions in the Mad Dogs and/or Alpha Dogs threads.

 

[Lohb]

  Grado's have a very simple yet effective solution for this. They make sure there is enough excess cable on the inside of the cup and put a zip-tie around it. Since the zip-tie is larger than the cable hole, any time you step on the cable should only stretch the rubber housing and not ever pull on the driver itself.

Nice one. Thanks, will give that a try soon.