[abhinit90]

FA-003 pads must be over-stretched to use withT50RP, so much so they tend to rip. I have several on hand from Billy at Noisymotel dot com. Very nice fellow, btw.

I use double side adhesive that comes in a 3 x 3 feet sheet, making custom shapes possible, and tape them on; and easy off. Note that changing the shape and tension of pads changes the sound FR and resonant frequency just as using different density foam, pleather, leather, and velour.

Search the Wow T50RP thread for micmacmo's FA-003 inner tube flap mod. This works great for durability and easy on/off. He has a detailed tutorial showing how to make your own.

Thanks mate. I initially thought I'll try to extend them but I'll now try to search for the thread and make a inner tube flap mod and will hopefully listen to them. The thing is that I've heard they are good pads for the Fostex. I was initially partial towards the shure pads because of their apparent ease of use.

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

  Thanks mate. I initially thought I'll try to extend them but I'll now try to search for the thread and make a inner tube flap mod and will hopefully listen to them. The thing is that I've heard they are good pads for the Fostex. I was initially partial towards the shure pads because of their apparent ease of use.

FA-003 pads are more comfortable and look nicer than Shure 840 pads, IMO. Taping them on solves the ripped seams problem but I have not had as good SQ results with them taped on and with the inner tube modification compared to Shure 840s; close, but not close enough for me. There may be a modification scheme that works as well with FA-003 pads but I have not found it nor seen one published.
 
I'm sure micmacmo will be happy to share is inner tube mod. I don't remember if I provided the link to his excellent pictorial/tutorial in Post #1 of this thread. If not, ask Mo for the link.

 

[micmacmo]

Because I'm a shameless shill for my own work, let me pre-emptively link to the inner-tube mod tutorial. 

 

[abhinit90]

  FA-003 pads are more comfortable and look nicer than Shure 840 pads, IMO. Taping them on solves the ripped seams problem but I have not had as good SQ results with them taped on and with the inner tube modification compared to Shure 840s; close, but not close enough for me. There may be a modification scheme that works as well with FA-003 pads but I have not found it nor seen one published.
 
I'm sure micmacmo will be happy to share is inner tube mod. I don't remember if I provided the link to his excellent pictorial/tutorial in Post #1 of this thread. If not, ask Mo for the link.

Thank you once again for pointing me in the right direction, I guess a man has to contend and I'll get the HM5 pads. (Assuming they're identical)
 

  Because I'm a shameless shill for my own work, let me pre-emptively link to the inner-tube mod tutorial. 

Thanks a ton micmacmo, saved me a ton of searching. Much appreciated

 

[jgray91]

I uploaded two new videos to Google Drive:

1. "Disassembling Fostex T50RP_T40RP mkII_T20RP mkII For Repairs and Driver Modification"

2. "Radical Russian Roulette' Driver Modification"

Warning: They are Long, running ~ 18 minutes, each.

You will find them near the Top of Post #1 in this thread under the heading: 
"Incremental Mods and Measurements REW .mdat files and Videos stored in Google Docs"

If nothing else, they should work great for those frustrating, sleepless nights.     


Credits:  Here is the LINK to the Russian Modification Site (player.ru) where I found the original post by 'SGS' - See post 211.

             Here is the LINK to the Russian to English translation by 'nevod' - See post 4383.

Now that I have the time to watch both videos, it seems that you have some new mods on the ear side baffle that I noticed in your disassembly video. That or I may have just missed a few new mods that you've written about....

 

[nick n]

Chris1967 sent me the links to his handiwork. very nice.
So I am posting them up here now.
So please take note these are pictures from CHRIS1967

 
cable is mogami neglex 2534 jack is neutrik
Labelled the picture in case Chris wants to expand on what is shown at some point.
A/

 
B/

 
C/

 
D/

 
E/

 
F/

 
G/

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

Now that I have the time to watch both videos, it seems that you have some new mods on the ear side baffle that I noticed in your disassembly video. That or I may have just missed a few new mods that you've written about....

 
Ear side mods??
 
Not shown on the video are the "Paxmate Earrings" surrounding the ear side of the drivers on the flat area of the baffles.
 
Shown on the video are custom-cut pieces of Paxmate Plus (or Silverstone) that fit each of the rear side baffle compartments. I no longer use Newplast or plasticine in the baffles. Note, however, that nick n's Memory Foam Mod uses Newplast in the rear baffle compartments and then covered with felt.

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

  I uploaded two new videos to Google Drive:
 
1. "Disassembling Fostex T50RP_T40RP mkII_T20RP mkII For Repairs and Driver Modification"
 
2. "Radical Russian Roulette' Driver Modification"
 
Warning: They are Long, running ~ 18 minutes, each.
 
You will find them near the Top of Post #1 in this thread under the heading: 
"

Incremental Mods and Measurements REW .mdat files and Videos stored in Google Docs"
 

If nothing else, they should work great for those frustrating, sleepless nights.   

 
 
 
Credits:  Here is the LINK to the Russian Modification Site (player.ru) where I found the original post by 'SGS' - See post 211.
 
             Here is the LINK to the Russian to English translation by 'nevod' - See post 4383.

 
Here's an interesting modification from 'Dima F' on the Russian player.ru web site. See Post # 204 in the first of the two links, above.
 
EDIT: Looks like Dima F opened the faux cup vents at the top, added some nice looking metal "mesh" and damped the vents with felt. For "Bass Lovers" this should produce more bass considering results from my attempt at making "Double Bass Vents" over a year ago. The trick will be to tune out a FR hump at 100 to 200 Hz causing Boomy Bass Bloat. Otherwise the mids may sound veiled/muffled and the treble frequencies may be squashed. Are those stock pads? I can't tell. 
 
Maybe one of our Russian headfi friends (you guys know who you are  will send Dima F a PM on player <dot> ru and ask Dima F for details about his mod and how he damped them to control the upper bass hump.
 

 

[Smugsie]

I'm wondering if you guys have any tips for a basshead?
 
So far I've got alpha pads that definitely increased the bass. Now I'm stuck.. I have relative materials for BlueMonkeyFlyer's mods (Play-doh, gauss pads, "treble-reflectors", electrical tape)
Although I don't want to go so far into BlueMonkeyFlyer's mods as to strip the felt off the drivers.

My only complaint is that by stock and alpha pads, the sub bass is nice and rumbles well, but the mid bass is pretty muddy.

I don't mind having a sloped frequency response chart. Sub bass obviously being the peak.

Extra notes:

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

I mean, I'm into every genre of music, but I have 38/150 songs that are techno.
It's just that I have a decent amount of headphones/IEM's that are crystal clear and have tight bass and sparkly highs. So I need to fit bass in there, and there's no way I'm saving up for LCD 2's...
So Nec3, why not just buy a Sony XB500? Well... acts ually why didn't I... It's just that the Fostex T50RP wabeing sold in my LOCAL tech store in Canada; and seeing something so rare. I just had to buy it. Plus, I've had enough of spending money on headphones, so I want to feel grateful that I changed a headphone with my own hands to get something I want. Not just work at walmart for 2 weeks and blow my entire paycheque on headphones.

 

[BobSaysHi]

  Thank you very much nick n for posting the picture of my driver repair...
 
(in that post i said i used copper wire... it is actually motor or transformer wire)
 
To answer to BobSaysHi is in my picture of the repair...
 
You have to very carefully scratch and find the trace and then solder on it carefully...
 
Secure your wire of choice initially with superglue (instant cyanoacrylic type) and once sure yuor driver is working proceed with hot glue...

 
Awesome. I'll give it a try tomorrow. Thanks for the help, I'll report back.
 
I wasn't ever happy with the quantity of bass I was able to achieve and rereading this thread has inspired me to give it another shot.

 

[jgray91]

Ear side mods??

Not shown on the video are the "Paxmate Earrings" surrounding the ear side of the drivers on the flat area of the baffles.

Shown on the video are custom-cut pieces of Paxmate Plus (or Silverstone) that fit each of the rear side baffle compartments. I no longer use Newplast or plasticine in the baffles. Note, however, that nick n's Memory Foam Mod uses Newplast in the rear baffle compartments and then covered with felt.

Oops, that's what I meant.

 

[Lohb]

  Chris1967 sent me the links to his handiwork. very nice.
So I am posting them up here now.
So please take note these are pictures from CHRIS1967

 
cable is mogami neglex 2534 jack is neutrik
Labelled the picture in case Chris wants to expand on what is shown at some point.
  D/

 
   

I wonder if these are FA-003 pads.... they look slightly different...thicker/padded out to the max ?

 

[Thujone]

  I wonder if these are FA-003 pads.... they look slightly different...thicker/padded out to the max ?

Alpha pads

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

  I'm wondering if you guys have any tips for a basshead?
 
So far I've got alpha pads that definitely increased the bass. Now I'm stuck.. I have relative materials for BlueMonkeyFlyer's mods (Play-doh, gauss pads, "treble-reflectors", electrical tape)
Although I don't want to go so far into BlueMonkeyFlyer's mods as to strip the felt off the drivers.

My only complaint is that by stock and alpha pads, the sub bass is nice and rumbles well, but the mid bass is pretty muddy.

I don't mind having a sloped frequency response chart. Sub bass obviously being the peak.

Extra notes:

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

I mean, I'm into every genre of music, but I have 38/150 songs that are techno.
It's just that I have a decent amount of headphones/IEM's that are crystal clear and have tight bass and sparkly highs. So I need to fit bass in there, and there's no way I'm saving up for LCD 2's...
So Nec3, why not just buy a Sony XB500? Well... acts ually why didn't I... It's just that the Fostex T50RP wabeing sold in my LOCAL tech store in Canada; and seeing something so rare. I just had to buy it. Plus, I've had enough of spending money on headphones, so I want to feel grateful that I changed a headphone with my own hands to get something I want. Not just work at walmart for 2 weeks and blow my entire paycheque on headphones.

See my EDIT to Post #883, above, RE: BASS. Also see "Tuning Rules of Thumb" at the bottom of Post #1 in this thread.
 
I do Not recommend removing the stock white driver damping material from the rear of the T50RP drivers. Yes, you get more bass but it's Boomy Bloated Bass.
 
Alpha Pads are very comfortable but, in my experience with my ears, there is an upper bass-lower mids hump that needs to be tamed, for clarity in the mids. Take a look at the graphs in the "Pad Rolling April 2013" section at the bottom of Post #1 of this thread. Consider trying what you've got with different pads. Also, ask 'Thujone' (head-fi name) about his mod - he reported excellent results, in his post within this thread, using his variation of DBV #3 with Alpha Pads.

 

[Chris1967]

@ nick n, many thanks my friend!!
 
@ BobSaysHi, good luck... be patient work slowly, and use magnification if you have... i use cheap Chinese e-bay loopes with led light... it is great help...,after solder attempt use superglue for initial securing,... to test if your solder is ok, use a 1,5v AA battery... if you hear crackling noise form the driver you are succesful, dont try to connect in the initial point wire to listen to music, the battery is sufficient to check for succes... proceed with hotglue then to be assured your wires are secure, and only then connect your thin wires to your cable wires.
 
It is wise to use flexible wire... the reason i damaged my drivers (ripped the solder and the trace with it, when i tried to close the cups) was because i tried to use the mogami neglex internally directly on the seaker... this was a mistake since it is not very flexible.
 
I read very good solutions, the knot, the tierap... all very good.
 
I opted for mini xlr dual entry, because i will shortly go balanced on these.
 
@ MunkyNutz,... they are Alpha Pads
 
Some pictures of mine have the Shure pads, and some have the Mr Speakers Alpha pads... I am using Alpha pads now, and i feel they enhance the sound to the better, better imaging, little more sparcle to the treble, and tightenning the bass... all slightly, but definately audible... 
 
Makes the phones more comfortable, at least for my head and ears...