[satwilson]

  Muito obrigado !  I never heard of her but am looking at her on You Tube now.

Soft and SEDUCTIVE, check out Entre Amigos on HD Tracks, the modded T50RP's really showcase her vocal talents and Carters "woody" bass, highly recommended.

 

[onefatsurfer]

accidentally melted off one of the solder pads on my left driver while I was re-cabling them.  Soldered the wire to the trace, it is playing music, but I haven't re-assembled the driver to the cup yet.  

 
Hopefully it will hold.

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

accidentally melted off one of the solder pads on my left driver while I was re-cabling them.  Soldered the wire to the trace, it is playing music, but I haven't re-assembled the driver to the cup yet.  

Hopefully it will hold.

Kester eutectic solder works great. The stock copper wires need to be pre-tinned. It's difficult to get them to take solder. I e had the best results using extra flux applied with a toothpick, pre-tinned iron, an alligator clip heat sink on the wire near the wire insulation, and 550 F temp. It takes several applications to get it to accept solder. Then hold the pre-tinned wire steady on the driver solder pad, re-tin your iron, reduce your temp to about 475 F, and get in and out in about 2 seconds. Works for me but be careful.

Good luck.

 

[onefatsurfer]

i am using kester 60/40.  I am usually quick and good with a soldering iron (used to solder surface mount components to mod xboxes) but i screwed up and melted the plastic around the pad from holding the iron on a touch too long.  the solder cooled before the plastic from the pad, and when i twisted the wire a touch, it ripped the pad right off.  
 
 
ordered a new pair of t50rp's.  if my repair holds, i'll have a backup.  not the end of the world (though, VERY frustrating to destroy a perfectly good pair of headphones)

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

i am using kester 60/40.  I am usually quick and good with a soldering iron (used to solder surface mount components to mod xboxes) but i screwed up and melted the plastic around the pad from holding the iron on a touch too long.  the solder cooled before the plastic from the pad, and when i twisted the wire a touch, it ripped the pad right off.  


ordered a new pair of t50rp's.  if my repair holds, i'll have a backup.  not the end of the world (though, VERY frustrating to destroy a perfectly good pair of headphones)

That's gotta hurt! Hope your repair holds.

 

[onefatsurfer]

It held during re-assembly and I'm listening to them now! 

 
 
The sound seems a bit smoother, but it sounds like there is a tiny bit of channel imbalance, probably caused by unbalanced cotton/fiberglass amounts.  I think taking out the jack helped to smooth out the sound.  Granted, it could be placebo effect.  I would NOT recommend this mod to others unless you have the requisite soldering skill to fix it if you screw up... or the $ to replace the driver if you burn the pad off.  
 
 
I cancelled my order for another pair, these are working fine right now, and I plan on reinforcing the entry point with epoxy so that a tug on the wires will never tear the trace off of the driver.  For now, it is an ugly job, but it's working and sounds excellent.

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

  It held during re-assembly and I'm listening to them now! 

 
 
The sound seems a bit smoother, but it sounds like there is a tiny bit of channel imbalance, probably caused by unbalanced cotton/fiberglass amounts.  I think taking out the jack helped to smooth out the sound.  Granted, it could be placebo effect.  I would NOT recommend this mod to others unless you have the requisite soldering skill to fix it if you screw up... or the $ to replace the driver if you burn the pad off.  
 
 
I cancelled my order for another pair, these are working fine right now, and I plan on reinforcing the entry point with epoxy so that a tug on the wires will never tear the trace off of the driver.  For now, it is an ugly job, but it's working and sounds excellent.

That's great news! You must be a master at soldering. How in the world did you solder a wire to the Trace?! I'd love to see a picture.

 

[onefatsurfer]

  That's great news! You must be a master at soldering. How in the world did you solder a wire to the Trace?! I'd love to see a picture.

LOL, if I were a master at soldering, I would have never screwed this up in the first place!  
 
I don't have any pictures of it yet, and it's not that impressive looking, tbh.  
 

 
 
I took a knife, and scraped the plastic coating off of the trace that connects to the pad.  It's a pretty wide trace (probably 1mm?) Then I bent the trace up a little bit so that I could get to the copper part of it underneath.  With it sticking up, I put a drop of flux on it, and on my pre-tinned wire.  Held the wire to it, and quickly touched the tip of my soldering iron onto the connection point.  I made sure to have the headphones plugged in at this point so I could tell in real time if there was an electrical connection.  It took maybe 2 or 3 tries to get it to solder strong enough that I could give it a tiny tug and it wouldn't come off.  Then I laid the wire down against the orange/brown plastic and taped it down with a bit of painter's tape.  Double checked that it was still playing, then I poured a blob of krazy glue over the wire and let it sit for the night until the krazy glue was completely hardened. Checked it this morning, it was still working and the krazy glue was hard, so I re-assembled everything

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

  LOL, if I were a master at soldering, I would have never screwed this up in the first place!  
 
I don't have any pictures of it yet, and it's not that impressive looking, tbh.  
 

 
 
I took a knife, and scraped the plastic coating off of the trace that connects to the pad.  It's a pretty wide trace (probably 1mm?) Then I bent the trace up a little bit so that I could get to the copper part of it underneath.  With it sticking up, I put a drop of flux on it, and on my pre-tinned wire.  Held the wire to it, and quickly touched the tip of my soldering iron onto the connection point.  I made sure to have the headphones plugged in at this point so I could tell in real time if there was an electrical connection.  It took maybe 2 or 3 tries to get it to solder strong enough that I could give it a tiny tug and it wouldn't come off.  Then I laid the wire down against the orange/brown plastic and taped it down with a bit of painter's tape.  Double checked that it was still playing, then I poured a blob of krazy glue over the wire and let it sit for the night until the krazy glue was completely hardened. Checked it this morning, it was still working and the krazy glue was hard, so I re-assembled everything

 
Master Solder Slingers sometimes have accidents. You're description of your repair method is brilliant! You Are a MSS.

 

[onefatsurfer]

I used to mod the original xbox for friends.. If I accidentally plugged in the power supply before the power switch, it would blow a single surface mount transistor about the size of a flea. After blowing a couple, I found where to order the part online and started trying to fix them myself if I screwed up. That's how I got used to soldering tiny stuff. Occasionally, I would burn a trace on those and have to fix it with wire or trace repair material. Those are easier, though, since they're on a stiff pcb. The Fostex driver circuit is essentially plastic wrap with how easily it burns

 

[Chris1967]

This accident has hapenned to me also...
 
Used copper wire and soldered to the trace...
 
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/69/dsc5865e.jpg/

 

[nick n]

^ Chris1967 because you have posting restrictions being a new member I will post that for you. If you want me to take it down say the word
 

 

[Lohb]

Edit.

 

[satwilson]

I used to mod the original xbox for friends.. If I accidentally plugged in the power supply before the power switch, it would blow a single surface mount transistor about the size of a flea. After blowing a couple, I found where to order the part online and started trying to fix them myself if I screwed up. That's how I got used to soldering tiny stuff. Occasionally, I would burn a trace on those and have to fix it with wire or trace repair material. Those are easier, though, since they're on a stiff pcb. The Fostex driver circuit is essentially plastic wrap with how easily it burns

Just thought I would reiterate the most successful accepted technique for recabling is to cut the stock wire leaving about 1- 1&1/2" of the stock wire attached to the driver so as not to solder directly to it. BMF, I know you are aware of this, might be worthwhile to include it as a warning in the "mods" post, if you haven't already. I would also like to personally thank you for your dedication to this process, enabling me to achieve great success with my mod.

 

[onionskin]

 
Just thought I would reiterate the most successful accepted technique for recabling is to cut the stock wire leaving about 1- 1&1/2" of the stock wire attached to the driver so as not to solder directly to it. BMF, I know you are aware of this, might be worthwhile to include it as a warning in the "mods" post, if you haven't already. I would also like to personally thank you for your dedication to this process, enabling me to achieve great success with my mod.

 
Thank you for that.  Recabling is my next project to squeeze a little somethin' more out of these.
Anyone have suggestions on wire?  I was going to start with either canre star quad or litz braid some cat-5 but I would be interested to know others successes.