Calling All "Vintage" Integrated/Receiver Owners
Nov 23, 2015 at 12:53 PM Post #15,301 of 19,143
 
I still have the big, bound collection of phono cartridge reviews that he put out way back when, as well as a large-ish collection of the IAR newsletters - published in black font on red stock to prevent copying.  I remember reading his stuff and wondering how he got around with that immense ego.  Remember when he challenged the audio industry by saying that he could correctly distinguish between wires 100% of the time in a blind A/B test even with his ears stuffed with cotton?  Of course, this insinuated that anyone who couldn't was a hack.

biggrin.gif
 good old days.
 
There was also green font on dark purple stock - even harder to copy. Love him or hate him, in any fair judgement he belongs to mavericks in audio measurements and subjective description. His publications are pricey - the alternative which lives mostly off advertising will prove even more costly - to the consumer ...
 
Nov 26, 2015 at 10:33 AM Post #15,302 of 19,143
  No such thing as a vintage balanced receivers.
 
Balanced started appearing in consumer high end audio separates years after receivers fell out of vogue.
 
There might be some lone wolfs that are internally balanced and only have unbalanced RCA inputs - but that would drive the cost up so much to be seriously overpriced relative to single ended competition. Possible yes, likely no.
 
Balanced is WAAAY overrated for consumer audio. Think about the fact that none of the true measurement microphones do not use balanced connections - XLR is there unheard of. 

Yeah, I'd found as much so far, but I thought it was worth putting the question out just in case. That's the end benefit of a community/griup, right? Pool experience and share info. So, that part has basically been corroborated. Thanks.
 
  Then forget about vintage equipment which is from an era that predates the brilliant idea to sell 'balanced' gear to audiophiles...

What's wrong with going balanced and extending what's available in studios/production to combat long runs and noise from having lots of equipment together? I had a full RCA cabled system before this and they weren't cutting it for 2 reasons. I've got a mountain of gear running beside/around my audio gear like computers, servers, TVs, soldering gear, lighting, step-down transformers, and isolation transformers . Then my speakers are each 5m from my PRE. Even with my headphones I'm still looking at ~4-5m from the amp, all in the same lovely environment. But you're right, I've gotten sucked into that sales cycle after having RCA connections and not being happy with the background fuzz and weak signal...
 
I'd love to get that dedicated listening room away from everything else, that's on it's own circuit or that even has it's own dedicated power, and but hey, I'm in my late 20s, so that ain't happening.
 
  I hate to burst your bubble, but if you're that into audio, the consumer-based Pioneer stuff is just not that good.  The line amps are noisy, the phono sections even noisier, and the sound quality tends to be strident and 2 dimensional.  If you're into their looks I can't argue there - they were striking looking.  

Luckily I won't be using the phono sections. As for your other comments around sound quality, I'm not really looking for ultra detail, I'm looking for what sounds comfortable and engaging. I've got planers, so from what I gather running them off the speaker taps is supposed to sound pretty nice. Quite a few people with similar or better gear than me have recommended doing that, so I was hoping to have a listen.
 
  Shots fired. The man is looking at one of their TOTL amplifiers. It's like telling the man climbing Everest that Nepal is an average of 7000 FT up. He's looking for the exceptional unit.
 
I'm not sure if there is a benefit to retrofitting a balanced input onto a device that wasn't made for it. Unless you're 100% sure the device was made a certain way or are willing to add the flipping/adding circuitry on to it, you might be better off with an adaptor or RCA input. You can probably find an adaptor that does more than just pulling off the + lead and preserves the qualities you're looking for.

I haven't looked at schematics, but amps like the Concept 16.5, the Toshiba SA-7150, the Kenwood Supreme 600, or, get this, the Pioneer SA-8800, SA-9800, and SPEC-4 are all dual-mono from the PSU. I'm not here to yank your chains, guys, I just wanted to check on the long shot if any of these already individually powered amps/receivers had balanced inputs. And at least by having dual-mono PSUs there's a chance that they do or that something could be done. Maybe not.
 
 
I also agree that there will probably be no improvement found by adding balanced adapters to the Pioneer, and it may also impact the sound negatively

Definitely possible. My gear also has RCA outs, so if I do end up getting one of these amps/receivers and there is no chance of balancing them, then I'd go direct RCA for sure. No benefit to putting lipstick on a pig. 
 
Nov 26, 2015 at 12:09 PM Post #15,303 of 19,143
My receiver has run into a problem. It is getting extremely hot near two of the transistors and either one or both of them is making a crackling noise. The heat sink is also getting extremely hot when the receiver is on for even one minute. I've researched the problem and it is supposedly failing transistors, but I wanted to check here with you guys to see if there's anything I can try to do before taking it in to a tech and spending more money on it. Model is a 1969 Pioneer SX990. Sorry for being pretty clueless when it comes to this kind of stuff. 
 
Nov 26, 2015 at 2:38 PM Post #15,304 of 19,143
 
I'd love to get that dedicated listening room away from everything else, that's on it's own circuit or that even has it's own dedicated power, and but hey, I'm in my late 20s, so that ain't happening.
 
...
 
I haven't looked at schematics, but amps like the Concept 16.5, the Toshiba SA-7150, the Kenwood Supreme 600, or, get this, the Pioneer SA-8800, SA-9800, and SPEC-4 are all dual-mono from the PSU. I'm not here to yank your chains, guys, I just wanted to check on the long shot if any of these already individually powered amps/receivers had balanced inputs. And at least by having dual-mono PSUs there's a chance that they do or that something could be done. Maybe not.
 

 
Yep, a lot of nice units are dual mono and man can you tell when it's done right. The separation is near total and it's awesome. Dual mono can't be converted into total end-to-end balanced unless it also has a floating set of isolated 'grounds.' Like in push-pull designs.
I have a dual mono sansui and it has an amazing sound stage.
 
Regarding power isolation.... don't waste too much money on it. There are cheap solutions if you really do have a noisy environment (and some people do, especially if you have a lot of communications gear in the room, or heavy machinery with brushed motors in your house, or big transformers within a few feet). A balanced system cuts down induced noise by a reliable 3dB, which is nice. You can also buy shielded coax cables for under a dollar per foot from your local electrical supply store (quadshield is good and cheap) and fit nice DIY RCA ends onto it. That will also eliminate most if not all induced noise. It's what I use and it's ideal for vintage systems. 
Sure some people swear they can hear a difference if their sound system is on its own circuit (transformer, building, whatever), but that is a bunch of nonsense for properly built equipment. Many vintage pieces are shielded correctly and have appropriate extra capacity in their power supplies to filter out any noise from your power line. Much of the junk people take as canonical for what is required to have a perfect system is really just something made up by marketing to sell high mark-up garbage.
 
  My receiver has run into a problem. It is getting extremely hot near two of the transistors and either one or both of them is making a crackling noise. The heat sink is also getting extremely hot when the receiver is on for even one minute. I've researched the problem and it is supposedly failing transistors, but I wanted to check here with you guys to see if there's anything I can try to do before taking it in to a tech and spending more money on it. Model is a 1969 Pioneer SX990. Sorry for being pretty clueless when it comes to this kind of stuff. 

It could be one of a few problems. First check your speakers and make sure they aren't too low impedance or otherwise shorting. Then check your DC offset and bias to make sure you're not shunting a ton of DC through your amp. If it's none of those, your outputs could be grounding on the chassis (I had a pioneer that did that if you catch it early enough, you can reinsulate them electrically and remount them. You might want a pro to do that.).
If it's not clearly one of those, you might want to consider getting a pro to look at it.
 
Nov 27, 2015 at 8:58 AM Post #15,305 of 19,143
  My receiver has run into a problem. It is getting extremely hot near two of the transistors and either one or both of them is making a crackling noise. The heat sink is also getting extremely hot when the receiver is on for even one minute. I've researched the problem and it is supposedly failing transistors, but I wanted to check here with you guys to see if there's anything I can try to do before taking it in to a tech and spending more money on it. Model is a 1969 Pioneer SX990. Sorry for being pretty clueless when it comes to this kind of stuff. 

 
There are generally bias diodes attached to the heat sinks to prevent the transistor bias from elevating and overheating the transistor.  Sometimes these can fail and lead to overheating.
 
Nov 27, 2015 at 9:50 AM Post #15,306 of 19,143
  Yeah, I'd found as much so far, but I thought it was worth putting the question out just in case. That's the end benefit of a community/griup, right? Pool experience and share info. So, that part has basically been corroborated. Thanks.
 
What's wrong with going balanced and extending what's available in studios/production to combat long runs and noise from having lots of equipment together? I had a full RCA cabled system before this and they weren't cutting it for 2 reasons. I've got a mountain of gear running beside/around my audio gear like computers, servers, TVs, soldering gear, lighting, step-down transformers, and isolation transformers . Then my speakers are each 5m from my PRE. Even with my headphones I'm still looking at ~4-5m from the amp, all in the same lovely environment. But you're right, I've gotten sucked into that sales cycle after having RCA connections and not being happy with the background fuzz and weak signal...
 
.......................

 
There is one thing many people get confused about: a balanced device is not the same thing as a balanced connection. In a "fully balanced amplifier" you have two identical signal paths, carrying two signals that are 180 degrees out of phase, for each channel; and (at least theoretically), the distortions in the two signal paths cancel out, giving you lower overall distortion. With a balanced connection, you simply have two equal but out of phase signals going through separate wires, between two components. In this case, since the two signals are subtracted to get the "total signal", and one signal is inverted, any noise that is picked up equally by both wires is cancelled out - which is why balanced connections have excellent immunity to outside noise.
 
Therefore, the "purpose" of a balanced amplifier is to lower overall distortion (noise may actually be slightly higher), while the purpose of a balanced connection is to reduce noise and interference being picked up in the connecting cable. To have a "fully balanced system", you would need to have all balanced components, connected together with balanced connections, and you get the benefits of both. However, many components that aren't internally balanced still offer balanced connections, and so give you all the benefits of using balanced cables (they just convert the signal to/from a balanced signal at the input/output). Almost all pro equipment offers balanced CONNECTIONS, because of the obvious benefits, but that's not to even suggest that the equipment itself is balanced. (The circuitry necessary to convert between balanced and unbalanced is relatively simple and cheap, and it can even be done passively with a transformer-based adapter - often referred to as "a balun" - which is short for "balanced/unbalanced adapter". This also means that, while making a fully balanced component adds a lot to the cost, balanced inputs and outputs aren't that expensive to include - and, in fact, the most expensive part of a balanced connection is usually the connectors.)
 
Nov 27, 2015 at 7:26 PM Post #15,307 of 19,143
thanks Keith Emo... we are lucky to have you here ...
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Nov 27, 2015 at 8:41 PM Post #15,308 of 19,143
  There is one thing many people get confused about: a balanced device is not the same thing as a balanced connection. In a "fully balanced amplifier" you have two identical signal paths, carrying two signals that are 180 degrees out of phase, for each channel; and (at least theoretically), the distortions in the two signal paths cancel out, giving you lower overall distortion. With a balanced connection, you simply have two equal but out of phase signals going through separate wires, between two components. In this case, since the two signals are subtracted to get the "total signal", and one signal is inverted, any noise that is picked up equally by both wires is cancelled out - which is why balanced connections have excellent immunity to outside noise.
 
Therefore, the "purpose" of a balanced amplifier is to lower overall distortion (noise may actually be slightly higher), while the purpose of a balanced connection is to reduce noise and interference being picked up in the connecting cable. To have a "fully balanced system", you would need to have all balanced components, connected together with balanced connections, and you get the benefits of both. However, many components that aren't internally balanced still offer balanced connections, and so give you all the benefits of using balanced cables (they just convert the signal to/from a balanced signal at the input/output). Almost all pro equipment offers balanced CONNECTIONS, because of the obvious benefits, but that's not to even suggest that the equipment itself is balanced. (The circuitry necessary to convert between balanced and unbalanced is relatively simple and cheap, and it can even be done passively with a transformer-based adapter - often referred to as "a balun" - which is short for "balanced/unbalanced adapter". This also means that, while making a fully balanced component adds a lot to the cost, balanced inputs and outputs aren't that expensive to include - and, in fact, the most expensive part of a balanced connection is usually the connectors.)

Thanks Keith, that was a clear explanation of the 2. 
 
Now you might have me on the DAC, my PWD only uses a single Wolfson WM8741 chip and only has one single power supply. As far as I know it's a multi-channel capable DAC chip and its balanced outputs are true, but both channels are indeed coming from one chip and one PSU. 
 
After that though, I think I got it. I've got a fully separated powered headphone amplifier, Audio-gd Phoenix, then another separated powered pre-amp, AMB a20, then I've got in fact 2 speakers from you guys, the Emotiva Pro Stealth 8s. Those are active and have no shared connections, so they're essentially each powered by their own mono block amplifier. Then all of this is connected using XLR, balanced connections. 
 
I never fully thought to include my DAC in the Balanced Device vs. Balanced Connection part as newer age DAC chips seem to support balanced implementations internally, without requiring multiple chips like older R2R ones. And when using multiple chips there seems to be more motivation to have separate power supplies for each channel, like in my long time love affair Audio-gd Master 7. So besides my DAC and other new age DACs, I've always made sure to pay attention to the Balanced Device vs. Balanced Connection part. I don't like amps or pres that have balanced connections, but aren't internally balanced. It seems kind of fake to me. I appreciate your explanation of it though and can see that by adding a balanced connection to a non-balanced implementation amp they can try and take advantage of how balanced connections transmit singles. 
 
The last part of your explanation did open up what I wondered about adding balanced connections and the potential value of it, even on a device that isn't internally balanced. I guess that starts to get a bit confusing when we're talking about the vintage amps and receivers I mentioned that do have dual-mono(individual PSU per channel), but that likely do not have isolated, floating grounds per side.
 
Also like PhoenixG said above, using better shielded RCA cables may help, but I was hopefully looking at extending the system I've already built. If there's no other way, then this will be my way and thank you PhoenixG for telling me of your success with it.
 
Nov 27, 2015 at 10:04 PM Post #15,309 of 19,143
...
Also like PhoenixG said above, using better shielded RCA cables may help, but I was hopefully looking at extending the system I've already built. If there's no other way, then this will be my way and thank you PhoenixG for telling me of your success with it.

Yup. These are the interconnects I use. They cost $3 to make and are flawless.



There it is in a complete state. Quad shield coax coupled to a gold plated brass rca connector.



And that's the inside. They're a piece of cake to make, darn near impervious to induced noise, and there is no magic. The engineering supports the design.
 
Nov 28, 2015 at 12:05 PM Post #15,310 of 19,143
Yup. These are the interconnects I use. They cost $3 to make and are flawless.



There it is in a complete state. Quad shield coax coupled to a gold plated brass rca connector.



And that's the inside. They're a piece of cake to make, darn near impervious to induced noise, and there is no magic. The engineering supports the design.

 
Do you find that high frequency detail is reduced by the shielding?  I have found this to be the case when trying various shielded cables - at least on my main system with Rowland M1s.  I use Kimber Hero there which seemed to resolve the issue.
 
The SX1250 seems to be bright enough where it is acceptable with a shielded blue jeans cable though.
 
Nov 28, 2015 at 12:39 PM Post #15,311 of 19,143
   
Do you find that high frequency detail is reduced by the shielding?  I have found this to be the case when trying various shielded cables - at least on my main system with Rowland M1s.  I use Kimber Hero there which seemed to resolve the issue.
 
The SX1250 seems to be bright enough where it is acceptable with a shielded blue jeans cable though.

 
So I guess, to sum up - the ideal coax cable for audio has a thick enough inner conductor, low capacitance, and enough shielding to reject your noise. And maybe is also cheap and easy to buy haha. So quadshield really does fine and no I don't work for a company that makes/sells it.
 
EDIT: I goofed on some principles and suggest just looking up the capacitance for any coax cables you use with the understanding that shielding can result in higher capacitance on a cable, but it also depends on all the other properties of the wire. I erased most of it to prevent confusion.
 
Nov 28, 2015 at 12:48 PM Post #15,312 of 19,143
  I haven't seen any high frequency attenuation. For the frequencies we're working with you have two options with coax - you can go as thick as possible to push the corner frequency to the left (and maximize shielding) or go thin to push it right (which seems counter-intuitive, I know). People LOVE massive looking cables. Nobody comes up to a narrow cable and says "oh that must be really good". But thin cables have the lowest capacitance, so if you're noticing a roll-off, maybe switch to a cable with thinner dielectric. Or maybe it's not the cable. It could be a dirty connector or that could just be how the amp sounds. Or maybe your replacement cable causes the amp to overshoot a bit giving the impression of better highs (it happens with very high capacitance cables on amps that use simple feedback sometimes).
 
For the cable I used, the corner frequency (where you start to see attenuation) is around 1GHz (dependent on shield circumference). I can't hear anything near 1GHz, so I'm not worried about attenuation. Coax cables also have a mode shift frequency (based on capacitance, length, etc) that can be in the audible range which might be what you're mentioning, but as long as your inner conductor has low enough DC resistance to carry your signal you shouldn't have any issues. 
So I guess, to sum up - the ideal coax cable for audio has a thick inner conductor, thin dielectric, and heavy shielding. And maybe is also cheap and easy to buy haha. So quadshield really does fine and no I don't work for a company that makes/sells it.

 
Ya - have had mixed results.  Blue Jeans LC-1 sounds fantastic with the 1250/CD player and like absolute crap with my Pass B1 Pre and Rowland amps - dull and lifeless to be exact.  Maybe I will try something similar to yours and see where I end up.  Thanks..
 
Nov 30, 2015 at 10:25 AM Post #15,313 of 19,143
  Thanks Keith, that was a clear explanation of the 2. 
 
Now you might have me on the DAC, my PWD only uses a single Wolfson WM8741 chip and only has one single power supply. As far as I know it's a multi-channel capable DAC chip and its balanced outputs are true, but both channels are indeed coming from one chip and one PSU. 
 
After that though, I think I got it. I've got a fully separated powered headphone amplifier, Audio-gd Phoenix, then another separated powered pre-amp, AMB a20, then I've got in fact 2 speakers from you guys, the Emotiva Pro Stealth 8s. Those are active and have no shared connections, so they're essentially each powered by their own mono block amplifier. Then all of this is connected using XLR, balanced connections. 
 
I never fully thought to include my DAC in the Balanced Device vs. Balanced Connection part as newer age DAC chips seem to support balanced implementations internally, without requiring multiple chips like older R2R ones. And when using multiple chips there seems to be more motivation to have separate power supplies for each channel, like in my long time love affair Audio-gd Master 7. So besides my DAC and other new age DACs, I've always made sure to pay attention to the Balanced Device vs. Balanced Connection part. I don't like amps or pres that have balanced connections, but aren't internally balanced. It seems kind of fake to me. I appreciate your explanation of it though and can see that by adding a balanced connection to a non-balanced implementation amp they can try and take advantage of how balanced connections transmit singles. 
 
The last part of your explanation did open up what I wondered about adding balanced connections and the potential value of it, even on a device that isn't internally balanced. I guess that starts to get a bit confusing when we're talking about the vintage amps and receivers I mentioned that do have dual-mono(individual PSU per channel), but that likely do not have isolated, floating grounds per side.
 
Also like PhoenixG said above, using better shielded RCA cables may help, but I was hopefully looking at extending the system I've already built. If there's no other way, then this will be my way and thank you PhoenixG for telling me of your success with it.

 
Just to make life even more..... interesting.....
 
The Wolfson 8741 is a stereo balanced DAC - which means that each Wolfson 8741 has a stereo pair of balanced outputs. However, you can also operate each Wolfson 8741 in "mono mode"; this is an even more special mode where you "cross connect" the two channels on the chip into a single mono channel with slightly better specs (very slightly; the S/N is about 3 dB better). The downside is that this requires more parts, is more complicated to design, and uses one DAC chip per channel instead of one for both channels.
 
What you also need to understand is that the whole concept of balanced - in the context of improving audio quality - only applies on the analog side of the DAC. The numbers going into the DAC aren't "balanced" - and there would be no benefit to their being so. (You can send a stream of numbers over a balanced connection, and you could even create a dual-stream of "balanced numbers", but they would be no more accurate than a single stream of numbers, so there would be no benefit at all. The whole idea of balanced analog signals is to cancel out errors, and digital numbers don't have errors, and so nothing to potentially cancel out.)
 
Now, you mentioned power supplies ..... and that is yet another context for the term "balanced" - with a whole extra set of meanings. With most tube amps, and with many VERY early solid state designs, the amplifier was run from a single power supply (perhaps ground and +70V DC for a solid state amp). Because the output voltage could only range between 0 V and 70 V, but a speaker requires AC voltage, this type of design REQUIRED an output transformer or output coupling capacitors. This sort of design is properly referred to as "single ended", and some folks referred to more modern designs, which ran off of dual power supplies (maybe +50 V and - 50 V), as being "balanced", or "differential". Modern designs are also often referred to as DC coupled - which automatically implies that dual supplies are used. (There are a bunch of names, depending on the context, and most modern solid state amps operate this way. The exception is bridged designs, which can run from either a single or dual supply). So most modern amplifiers run off of "plus and minus" power supplies.
 
With power amplifiers, where the power supplies are asked to deliver a lot of current, there is also the possibility that the current drawn by one channel will cause the other channel to distort. This is why monoblocks are considered to be better (because each channel is entirely separate - so each channel has its own plus and minus power supply). There are also stereo amplifiers where each channel has an entirely separate power supply, and the degree of separation may also vary; some amps have totally separate supplies for each channel, others may share a transformer, but have separate rectifiers and filters. (Note that a stereo "dual mono" amplifier requires FOUR separate power supplies, a plus and a minus for each channel.)
 
Yet ANOTHER factor is that some devices - like DACs - may have multiple sets of power supply sections for different purposes. This is especially typical for DACs. Digital circuitry tends to draw power in very short sharp pulses, which, in turn, can feed noise back into the power supply, which may then introduce noise or distortion to other parts of the circuitry. Therefore, it's usually better if you have separate filtered power supply sections for the analog and digital circuitry in a DAC. In fact, because the voltages at certain points in a DAC are super-critical, it's not unusual for a high-end DAC to have five or more separate power supply sections, each with its own filtering, with especially good filtering on the more critical sections.
 
Whether the term "balanced" is misleading or not is mostly a matter of context. Historically, in the days of tube equipment, very little equipment was internally balanced (although "push-pull" is a form of balanced design). However, because of the higher operating impedances of tube equipment, the connections between equipment were very sensitive to picking up hum and noise. Therefore, in the old days, most pro tube equipment used small signal transformers at the outputs and inputs to "create" a balanced signal for connection purposes. Good quality transformers worked very well for this, but were quite expensive, and so a good quality balanced input or output was considered an important premium feature on pro equipment - and one that you often paid a lot extra for - even though nobody even asked whether the rest of the circuitry was balanced or not (and it probably wasn't).
 
The thing you really need to keep in mind, though, is that all of this is done in the service of performance. (For example, if your DAC device has a S/N of 110 dB, which is excellent, it really doesn't matter if the Wolfson chips inside it are connected in the mode that gets a S/N of 125 dB or the mode that gets 128 dB. In a DAC, how well the power supply is designed, and how carefully the circuitry is laid out, will usually make much more difference than which mode on the chip is used.) If you have an unbalanced connection, and it's picking up noise, then switching to a balanced connection will probably help; and, if you're just putting together a system, using balanced connections to begin with will make it less likely that you'll have a noise problem; but, if you have unbalanced connections, and they're dead quiet already, then switching to balanced connections is unlikely to make any difference. Likewise, all else being equal, a balanced design may have lower distortion, but all else is rarely equal, so all that really counts in the end is the performance itself (it's quite possible for a well designed non-balanced amplifier to perform better, and sound better, than a balanced one that is less well designed).
 
Nov 30, 2015 at 10:37 AM Post #15,314 of 19,143
  I haven't seen any high frequency attenuation. For the frequencies we're working with you have two options with coax - you can go as thick as possible to push the corner frequency to the left (and maximize shielding) or go thin to push it right (which seems counter-intuitive, I know). People LOVE massive looking cables. Nobody comes up to a narrow cable and says "oh that must be really good". But thin cables have the lowest capacitance, so if you're noticing a roll-off, maybe switch to a cable with thinner dielectric. Or maybe it's not the cable. It could be a dirty connector or that could just be how the amp sounds. Or maybe your replacement cable causes the amp to overshoot a bit giving the impression of better highs (it happens with very high capacitance cables on amps that use simple feedback sometimes).
 
For the cable I used, the corner frequency (where you start to see attenuation) is around 1GHz (dependent on shield circumference). I can't hear anything near 1GHz, so I'm not worried about attenuation. Coax cables also have a mode shift frequency (based on capacitance, length, etc) that can be in the audible range which might be what you're mentioning, but as long as your inner conductor has low enough DC resistance to carry your signal you shouldn't have any issues. 
So I guess, to sum up - the ideal coax cable for audio has a thick inner conductor, thin dielectric, and heavy shielding. And maybe is also cheap and easy to buy haha. So quadshield really does fine and no I don't work for a company that makes/sells it.

 
There is one generalization you made that I would warn people about - and that is about "thick and thin coax". The capacitance of a coax cable is determined by the distance between the two conductors and the surface area - mostly of the center conductor. Therefore, you can't always count on thin cables having lower capacitance or vice versa (especially if you're buying surplus or unusual cable online). Some very small cable has very high capacitance, and some very heavy cable has very low capacitance; military surplus cable is especially prone to having unusual combinations of characteristics. You really should look up the characteristics of the individual cable you're considering. (The numbers used for coax cable are pretty much standardized, so you can look them up by number, even if you don't know the manufacturer. To get the typical electrical characteristics for RG-8, just Google "RG-8".)
 
People should also be aware that the numbers they see rated - like "loss" - are calculated based on a specific source and load impedance, and for a specific range of frequencies - almost always in the RF or microwave band, and consider the cable to be a transmission line. They should NOT be used for audio purposes. For audio purposes, you should only consider "basic parameters", like resistance, inductance, and capacitance... as related to the characteristics of the equipment you're connecting it to. (In general, a thick inner conductor, and thin dielectric, will give you high capacitance... which shouldn't be a problem with most audio.)
 
Nov 30, 2015 at 11:01 AM Post #15,315 of 19,143
   
There is one generalization you made that I would warn people about - and that is about "thick and thin coax". The capacitance of a coax cable is determined by the distance between the two conductors and the surface area - mostly of the center conductor. Therefore, you can't always count on thin cables having lower capacitance or vice versa (especially if you're buying surplus or unusual cable online). Some very small cable has very high capacitance, and some very heavy cable has very low capacitance; military surplus cable is especially prone to having unusual combinations of characteristics. You really should look up the characteristics of the individual cable you're considering. (The numbers used for coax cable are pretty much standardized, so you can look them up by number, even if you don't know the manufacturer. To get the typical electrical characteristics for RG-8, just Google "RG-8".)
 
People should also be aware that the numbers they see rated - like "loss" - are calculated based on a specific source and load impedance, and for a specific range of frequencies - almost always in the RF or microwave band, and consider the cable to be a transmission line. They should NOT be used for audio purposes. For audio purposes, you should only consider "basic parameters", like resistance, inductance, and capacitance... as related to the characteristics of the equipment you're connecting it to. (In general, a thick inner conductor, and thin dielectric, will give you high capacitance... which shouldn't be a problem with most audio.)

Thanks Keith! He's absolutely right - you can look up all those parameters and you can't always judge a book by its cover (or a cable by its jacket size). I did goof pretty big there on the general capacitance relationship as well - good catch and thanks for it! For interconnects, the inner conductor should be thick enough to pass the signal without loss (low resistance here means as low as possible with a maximum of 1/10th of your input resistance), which isn't as thick as you'd think, so you are right I over generalized. 

You are also right that there is generally higher capacitance in a coax interconnect and further right that it is still not going to be a problem with most audio interconnects. For a 1m RG-8 IC, we're looking at .2nF of capicitance compared to .1 for basic cable and maybe .15nF for average twisted strand. There is definitely a big percentage difference, but it is hopefully small enough to be acceptable on your system and get you the noise rejection that you're looking for.
Cheers
 

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