[preproman]

   From my experience with the Mjolnir I'm guessing that tube amps are a better option for me just because I preferred the Lyr so much more. 

 
You do know the Lyr is NOT just atube amp right..  It's a hybrid amp = Tube and Soild State (MOSFET).  So be carfule in looking for "Tube Amps"  It may be more benificial to search for SS amps to start out with.  Not sure where your located but the GON is always a good place to start for used gear:  
 
https://app.audiogon.com/listings?page=1&no_listing_types_auctions=false&no_listing_types_classifieds=false&items_per_page=50&order_by=current_price%20ASC&location_filter_radius=25&filter_category_id%5B%5D=49&min_condition=1&max_condition=11&listing_types_auctions=1&listing_types_classifieds=1
 
I like searching for good integrated amps:
 
https://app.audiogon.com/listings?page=1&no_listing_types_auctions=false&no_listing_types_classifieds=false&items_per_page=50&order_by=current_price%20ASC&location_filter_radius=25&filter_category_id%5B%5D=28&min_condition=1&max_condition=11&listing_types_auctions=1&listing_types_classifieds=1

 

[Justin_Time]

I would add that in addition to the McIntosh 275, I connect my HE-6s directly to my Conrad Johnson MV-50 tube amp without the resistor box and suffered no adverse effects. I have also never had a problem with any of the numerous solid state amps I have connected directly. 

 


I have the CJ MV75 Upgraded.

Though I was able to connect the HE-6 to speaker outputs without any problem, I found out that the sound was better using the 8-Ohm outputs with 8-Ohm resister across--better bass control and better dynamics.

The CJ MV75 give you the choice of different outputs for 4-Ohm and 8-Ohm (and possibly 16 Ohm) speaker impedance, suggesting that the correct load is important for best performance.

J_T

 

[rlawli]

 
Did you notice a big improvement in SQ without the speaker box on the tube amp?
 

 
Yes, quite noticeable as well w/ SS amps. 

 

[rlawli]

 
I have the CJ MV75 Upgraded.
 
 

Though I was able to connect the HE-6 to speaker outputs without any problem, I found out that the sound was better using the 8-Ohm outputs with 8-Ohm resister across--better bass control and better dynamics.

The CJ MV75 give you the choice of different outputs for 4-Ohm and 8-Ohm (and possibly 16 Ohm) speaker impedance, suggesting that the correct load is important for best performance.

J_T

 
I found the resistors pull too much power from the MV-50, something that could easily not be an issue with the 2/3 more power your MV-75 has. You might want to try quality 10 ohm resistors across your 8 ohm taps as these will get the total impedance presented to your amp to 8.3 ohms (unless my math is off).

 

[Joong]

  i just ordered some 6's will i be wasting my time trying to run these with my conductor? or just sell them got the feeling i jumped the gun!

Conductor lacks power for my opinion, and ksa-5 has far more power.
I have Conductor as preamp that drives Krell ksa-5 clone.
This setup has far far more power and good resolution for He-6.
I think all my speaker amps that I have tried lacks something, but with ksa-5 those missing parts are presented strongly.
You can get very cheap ksa-5 clone pcb assembled for 60 usd with toroidal transformer (60 usd for 24v-0-24v) with your any used housing (for free) of any kind like dvd player, or amp.
This requires some soldering and will surprise you.

 

[svo360]

  Conductor lacks power for my opinion, and ksa-5 has far more power.
I have Conductor as preamp that drives Krell ksa-5 clone.
This setup has far far more power and good resolution for He-6.
I think all my speaker amps that I have tried lacks something, but with ksa-5 those missing parts are presented strongly.
You can get very cheap ksa-5 clone pcb assembled for 60 usd with toroidal transformer (60 usd for 24v-0-24v) with your any used housing (for free) of any kind like dvd player, or amp.
This requires some soldering and will surprise you.

I have no idea about soldering all the sorts is it possible to buy one complete and ready to go?   Also i read in this thread a member stated a reasonable cost Audio-GD cant remember the name i think was 10-c2 or csv2  but was 300usd that had plenty of power to drive them.

 

[Justin_Time]

I found the resistors pull too much power from the MV-50, something that could easily not be an issue with the 2/3 more power your MV-75 has. You might want to try quality 10 ohm resistors across your 8 ohm taps as these will get the total impedance presented to your amp to 8.3 ohms (unless my math is off).

Yeah, I do have 10 ohms in parallel and 25 ohms in series for the HE-6.

I did find that I needed class-A SS or tube amps with sweet and warm sound for the HE-6 to sound its best. The power requirement is somewhere between 35 and 75 watts into 8 Ohms or about 5 to 10 watts into 50 Ohms--a very large power supply is far more important than more power.

So far I found the performance of most class A/B amps with the HE-6 wanting despite huge power ratings. Two exceptions so far: the Krell 300i and the Harmon Kardon HK775 acquitted themselves admirably. They sound musical and very relaxing rather than dynamic, but without the hard and edgy sound often heard when the HE-6 is poorly driven.

 

[preproman]

There's a lot of Class A/B amps out there that stay in Class A when driving the HE-6.  Depending on how high the amp is biased into Class A.

 

[Fearless1]

Just picked up a  lightly used First Watt J2 Amplifier and an HE-6 from a friend and I have to say it is an excellent combo. Just came off of a long listening session and have to say I am ultra impressed with the combo. Black back-ground, crisp bass and airy highs are descriptions that come to mind. I consider myself a tube amp kind of guy, but the pure resolution and air of this combo is invigorating to my ears.
 
 
Highly recommended!

 

[Happy Camper]

There's a lot of Class A/B amps out there that stay in Class A when driving the HE-6.  Depending on how high the amp is biased into Class A.

Yepper.

 

[Shazb0t]

  There's a lot of Class A/B amps out there that stay in Class A when driving the HE-6.  Depending on how high the amp is biased into Class A.

Agreed, I'm still using a mini-x with mine and I think it sounds great.  I don't think it ever crosses over into class B.

 

[rlawli]

  There's a lot of Class A/B amps out there that stay in Class A when driving the HE-6.  Depending on how high the amp is biased into Class A.

Too true. For example, the vintage Yamaha M-60 (20 watts Class A), M-80 & M-85 30 watts in Class A are all relatively inexpensive.

 

[preproman]

  Just picked up a  lightly used First Watt J2 Amplifier and an HE-6 from a friend and I have to say it is an excellent combo. Just came off of a long listening session and have to say I am ultra impressed with the combo. Black back-ground, crisp bass and airy highs are descriptions that come to mind. I consider myself a tube amp kind of guy, but the pure resolution and air of this combo is invigorating to my ears.
 
 
Highly recommended!

 
Congrats on the purchase.  My you enjoy many hours of good music..
 

 

[shayson1357]

"I consider myself a tube amp kind of guy, but the pure resolution and air of this combo is invigorating to my ears." wait till you try the he-6 with ultra-high end(cost-of-a-new-car territory) tube amplifiers.... you likely won't be able to afford them, but will surely change your mind about the capabilities of vacuum tubes(even though they're just a part of what makes an amp).

 

[Joong]

  I have no idea about soldering all the sorts is it possible to buy one complete and ready to go?   Also i read in this thread a member stated a reasonable cost Audio-GD cant remember the name i think was 10-c2 or csv2  but was 300usd that had plenty of power to drive them.

Yes, you can buy a complete amp that is ready to go.
Aliexpress.com of Alibaba group of china, you can find the amp within 400USD including shipping.
When you buy the components as I mentioned, the RCA terminals for output and input connection to the pcb requires you of some soldering.
The assembled PCB can be purchased to minimize soldering work.