[papaya]

Yoga, does your headphone also suffer from high impedance on 1 side? Does it have sound imbalance, does the problem side burst/rattle during strong bass?
 
Now I'm stuck with 1 speaker, I'm in SE Asia so it's quite hard to send it back to grado, it'd cost alot to have it repair including shipping everything.
 
If you are not using the MS1i, maybe you can sell the working side to me, or I can sell my working side to you, since either way i need another MS1i because i put too much funds on it to have it break like this.
 
I also have 2 sets of earcup, original & the other should be mid size cup smaller than GK1k cup sitting there doing nothing.

 

[butt]

Vent the MS-1 and you'll have more than enough bass to fit anyone's preference.
 

I think if I get ms1i,I'll try to vent it first rather than straightaway opted for alumod, and if the bass is good enough, the extra money should go to the wooden housing (if I can find one); I think wooden housing is sexier..

 

[Yoga Flame]

 
Quote:

Yoga, does your headphone also suffer from high impedance on 1 side? Does it have sound imbalance, does the problem side burst/rattle during strong bass?
 
Now I'm stuck with 1 speaker, I'm in SE Asia so it's quite hard to send it back to grado, it'd cost alot to have it repair including shipping everything.
 
If you are not using the MS1i, maybe you can sell the working side to me, or I can sell my working side to you, since either way i need another MS1i because i put too much funds on it to have it break like this.
 
I also have 2 sets of earcup, original & the other should be mid size cup smaller than GK1k cup sitting there doing nothing.

 
Yes, one side had high impedance that varied and went up to 90 ohms even. This was some time ago, and I had a little thread about it back then:
http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/507699/mystery-of-the-90-ohm-grado-driver
 
I'm also outside of the US so I did not want the hassle of shipping or import fees. So I bought a replacement driver from another head-fier whose Grado had also broken on one side. Same idea as you.
 
The replacement driver I got (SR80) was different from my original one (SR125). But with all the mods I've done on them (vented 4 holes, removed the buttons, added B-Quiet ¹)  they sound great to me and I don't sense any kind of imbalance. So if you can't find anyone with a spare MS1 driver, maybe you can try settling for an SR60 or SR80 one.
 
 
 
¹ This is from Canada, similar to Dynamat

 

[papaya]

I read your thread seems you have the EXACT same problem as mine. Loss of sound with a tap & fluctuating 90ohms...
 
I guess mine's gone for sure. I read some thread showing how to open up the grado, but i can't really open up the diaphragm compartment like what they say, sand off the bums & pry open. It seems the glue are very strong and the casing are very weak, it's already a mess & i still can't open up the compartment so i cut away the fabric layer to look how it went inside, but i think the wirings are at the back which i cannot access.
 
Finding another spare working Grado speaker maybe a tough mission as i don't think many people have these problems. Also can't gurantee i will get another lemon.
 
Is there any difference between MS1 & SR80 driver?
 
Actually I have already modded it to MS1000 that's why i felt pity just to throw it away. Worst case i have to make do with a used MS1i.
 
BTW any difference between MS1 & MS1i?

 

[Ikarios]

Has anyone tried the "fake" jumbo pads, available on eBay? Presumably these are the same ones that Jaben sells with their alumod set, but that is just an assumption. Anyway they're a bit cheaper, so if they sound the same these would be preferable.
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/Bowl-Shape-Earpads-Alessandro-Mpro-M1-M2-Headphones-/260741946075?pt=Other_MP3_Player_Accessories&hash=item3cb56e5adb
http://cgi.ebay.com/Bowl-Shape-Earpads-Grado-RS1i-Headphones-RS1-RS-1i-/250777998249?pt=Other_MP3_Player_Accessories&hash=item3a638893a9
etc etc

 

[rehabitat]

X2.  I was just about to post the same question.  It's worth noting that the shipping is far more reasonable to Australia than the genuinel suppliers.  Just to clear up any confusion with regular "bowls", as they are described, I asked the seller to disclose the outside diameter of the pads.  Will report back.
 
Quote:

Has anyone tried the "fake" jumbo pads, available on eBay? Presumably these are the same ones that Jaben sells with their alumod set, but that is just an assumption. Anyway they're a bit cheaper, so if they sound the same these would be preferable.
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/Bowl-Shape-Earpads-Alessandro-Mpro-M1-M2-Headphones-/260741946075?pt=Other_MP3_Player_Accessories&hash=item3cb56e5adb
http://cgi.ebay.com/Bowl-Shape-Earpads-Grado-RS1i-Headphones-RS1-RS-1i-/250777998249?pt=Other_MP3_Player_Accessories&hash=item3a638893a9
etc etc

 

 

[nickchen]

The 1000$ question is, does that thing consist of two sorts of foam with different density as the "real one"? If not, I have some doubts in respect of the SQ, just another poor asia copy in that case.

 

[apatN]

Quote:

I think if I get ms1i,I'll try to vent it first rather than straightaway opted for alumod, and if the bass is good enough, the extra money should go to the wooden housing (if I can find one); I think wooden housing is sexier..

You could do that, but I don't think changing cups is mandatory, at all. I never tried it, but the discours takes shapes that remind me of cable discussions so I am pretty critical. Do you believe in it, or not? Also, the drivers that the MS-1 use are not high-fi. So you can try to cover that all up, but it will just use the same drivers.
Anyway, I think that when you have the MS-1, the best thing to do is to mod them to MS1000 straight away. I would only vent them after the mod so you can get the bass to your liking (the MS1000 behaves totally different in this regard than the MS1).
 


Quote:

The 1000$ question is, does that thing consist of two sorts of foam with different density as the "real one"? If not, I have some doubts in respect of the SQ, just another poor asia copy in that case.

Perhaps not the 1000$ question, but the real GS1000 pads are indeed made out of two types of foam. I would be hard pressed to see DIY work that would come close to it.
 

 

[Malefoda]

Now that I'm used to my MS1000, nickchen's made distancers, I may go further.
I don't need more warmth, but bass kick is wlecome. The 4th hole in distancers is not needed nor the t-Shirt on jumbos, fine for me.
So here I go with the punch holes, up to a "more kick but not more bass", maybe 3 holes. But I'm scared! How hard is it to brake, is the speaker just under with a risk of damagining it?
 
Quote:

Yep, this is really a big one, a MS1000 with MS Pro Ulti sound.
 
1st, cover & glue the inner part of the beagle with textile stuff.
2nd, as the sound became really dark at 1st attempt, we drilled another 4th hole into the distancer in order to fine tune the effect.
 
 
 
3rd: The punch hole question: We ended up punching (only) 4 holes in the back of the driver. More would have been a bit much on drum heavy tracks.
 
 
 
Sounds ...

 

 

[Ikarios]

Quote:

Now that I'm used to my MS1000, nickchen's made distancers, I may go further.
I don't need mode warmth, but bass kick is wlecome. The 4th hole in distancers is not needed nor the t-Shirt on jumbos, fine for me.
So here I go with the punch holes, up to a "more kick but not more bass", maybe 3 holes. But I'm scared! How hard is it to brake, is the speaker just under with a risk of damagining it?
 


 

A standard cheapie Bic pen works well and the cone shape of the tip prevents it from breaking anything.
 

 

[Malefoda]

But I want to do it... through the rear mesh! May try a kind of retainer say 1mm lower than the surface...

 

[apatN]

Not a good plan, considering you could potentially destroy something. The cups are easy to take off, after that you can vent the drivers with a pen so as not to touch the actual diaphragm. 

 

[butt]

Quote:

You could do that, but I don't think changing cups is mandatory, at all. I never tried it, but the discours takes shapes that remind me of cable discussions so I am pretty critical. Do you believe in it, or not? Also, the drivers that the MS-1 use are not high-fi. So you can try to cover that all up, but it will just use the same drivers.
Anyway, I think that when you have the MS-1, the best thing to do is to mod them to MS1000 straight away. I would only vent them after the mod so you can get the bass to your liking (the MS1000 behaves totally different in this regard than the MS1).

Ehm, never tried to change any of my cups on all my headphone before, so my experience is very limited, but if the "Master" said so, I might not do it and just mod it to MS1000 straightaway.
But, those thunderpants by Smeggy do take the Fostex T50RP to another level by changing to wooden cups and few damping scheme, but still, my take on this solely based from reading the thread, I never have any first hand experience in hearing the Thunderpants..

 

[Malefoda]

Quote:

Not a good plan, considering you could potentially destroy something. The cups are easy to take off, after that you can vent the drivers with a pen so as not to touch the actual diaphragm. 

It sounds more scary than ever! (well that may be not very good english, hope you undertsand ) What is the diameter of the holes? Is it "the-one-made-by-the-ball-pen-when-broking-the-layer"?
 
BTW I've just found the glue I've used for distancers was not that great, they went too easily off and the glue is a not so sticky but a hard film now :'( What is the recommended glue for this wich can be found in european market?
 
Thanks guys for sharing and help!

 

[nickchen]

Use a 2 components epoxy to glue the distancers. My favorite small amount sort is called "Uhu Endfest", but I severely doubt that is its nomenclature in the whole EU...