[NapalmK]

Quote:

Would love to find a broken DT880 or K240and use that. Any recommendation and tips  would be appreciated. 

I'll be back home this weekend and I have a DT990 shell. I can see if the drivers will fit if you'd like. If it works I may try using that as well.

 

[dBel84]

Quote:

Would there be any problems with the sound seeing as the inside of this can would not be concave?  I was kind of considering wrapping them in some fiberglass and putting some bondo and a nice spraypaint finish on them to get the thickness back up.  It would also strengthen the cups greatly, and allow me to use some cheap wood at least the first time around.  
 
If I decide to just stick with the wood it should be fine if my cups are slightly smaller then 4 inches as long as my baffles are that big where I screw them onto the cups.  I'm in the very early stages of planning this build, and I'm not sure what size hole saws I can actually buy.  As a relative newbie to head-fi I figure I could contribute a decent way for people without access to a lathe to build a set of these with just a few tools.  

 
The inside of the cups is generally not concave. 
 
an option to consider if you have limited tools is to make the cup out of several thinner pieces of wood - I did this with the first SFI cup I made. I found 3.25" discs at a local craft store - bought about 10 of them for 25c each and then glued 4 of them together to make a larger cup. I drilled out the internal diameter after glueing them but you could probaly cut out the hole first and then glue as many layers as you like before closing off the base. There are very few rules that you need to follow when trying to make woodied orthos, having the right tools helps a lot but is not a reason not to be inventive and try somethig different..dB

 

[Bigrock2150]

Quote:

 
The inside of the cups is generally not concave. 
 
an option to consider if you have limited tools is to make the cup out of several thinner pieces of wood - I did this with the first SFI cup I made. I found 3.25" discs at a local craft store - bought about 10 of them for 25c each and then glued 4 of them together to make a larger cup. I drilled out the internal diameter after glueing them but you could probaly cut out the hole first and then glue as many layers as you like before closing off the base. There are very few rules that you need to follow when trying to make woodied orthos, having the right tools helps a lot but is not a reason not to be inventive and try somethig different..dB

Yes this is known as segmented turning in the WoodTurning world. You could also get really creative and use different kinds of wood for each layer. I've done one cup out of Padauk and Purpleheart and I thought it turned out really nice. 
 

 

[VulgarDisplay]

That's why I plan on using some hole saws to see what I can slap together.  If it turns out ok with some cheaper wood first I might actually laminate a few 1x's of alternating dark and light wood together to get some nice pattern on my finished product.  I actually do have a metal turning lathe but no wood lathe.  I must admit that making a pair of metal cans would be cool, but probably far to heavy for me to want to use.  
 
Has anyone tried making an open can out of these?  I think I remembered hearing a few people say they tried and it wasn't any good.  

 

[NapalmK]

I know Kabeer and Smeggy have tried an open design.
 
Here's Kabeer's:

 

[VulgarDisplay]

Those look amazing.  I wonder how they sound.  Think I'll buy the t50rp's now haha.  I'm sitting on three paychecks so I might as well dump some of this money lol....  This hobby is only beginning to get out of hand.  I'm building a cmoy as practice for a mini3 which is going to be practice for a CTH.  I also play on buying a udac2 very soon as well. 
 
I just bought a pair of m50's to go with my ad700's.  I think the t50rp's modded properly could put an end to the spending if I get them just right.  This website is pure evil for my wallet. 

 

[wualta]

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Think I'll buy the t50rp's now haha.   ...This hobby is only beginning to get out of hand!

[emphasis added] I think VD's got an exceptionally firm grasp of the situation, don't you?
 
Mwa ha.
 

 

[NapalmK]

Quote:

I'll be back home this weekend and I have a DT990 shell. I can see if the drivers will fit if you'd like. If it works I may try using that as well.

I just checked and it looks like the T50 drivers will fit in a DT990 chasis. The main hurdle to overcome seems to be the damping scheme which I'm a little lost on at the moment. I think I may have to get another pair to continue experimenting.

 

[frank2908]

sorry to be a cheap ass, but the stax ear pads is not available in the uk, and the w5000 costs £85 a pair. so i intend to do full diy pads. the materials are available online ( 1m sqr of lambskin is £40 and i can order custom cut memory foam for around £12. I know this is not cheap, but with 1 sqr m of lambskin i can make the pads for my sfi phones as well. what i dont have is experience in sewing leather. i would do it by hand though. to my understanding there are somepeople tried it in the past but with polyfill/cottonfill. the custom cut foam can be neater. can anyone share experience? BTW the memory can seal better as well 

 

[NapalmK]

Quote:

sorry to be a cheap ass, but the stax ear pads is not available in the uk, and the w5000 costs £85 a pair. so i intend to do full diy pads. the materials are available online ( 1m sqr of lambskin is £40 and i can order custom cut memory foam for around £12. I know this is not cheap, but with 1 sqr m of lambskin i can make the pads for my sfi phones as well. what i dont have is experience in sewing leather. i would do it by hand though. to my understanding there are somepeople tried it in the past but with polyfill/cottonfill. the custom cut foam can be neater. can anyone share experience? BTW the memory can seal better as well 

I'm interested in this to. My mom is an upholstery teacher so I may see if I can get her to make some.

 

[Br777]

ya know.. i had the stax pads, and although they obviously sounded great, and were made well.  i always thought they could be done a lot better if someone had the know how and resources. 
for instance:
they had good foam, but not all that much - it was like a 1/2" thick donut if i recall..
in general the whole feel of the pad was a bit loose and sloppy.. in the sense that everything sort of slid around and didnt feel as thick or tight as it could have
it seemed like it could have been more plump, and stuffed more.  tighter and rounder if that makes any sense
i envision something more like the ah-d2000 pads, or the j$$ pads as a better design, or at least pads that are fatter and tighter in their design
also if they had some better mechanism or maybe something elastic to help hold them tight to the cups or just hold them firmly against the cans somehow, that would be very good! otherwise they just kind of float there, they slide around easily, and they just dont feel nearly as secure or precise as they could
 
the stax pads were basically a foam donut wrapped in leather, with a little plastic ring to help hold the shape.
 
 
anyway i hope ya'll have good luck with this.. i bet you'd easily have some buyers if you made a few extras
 

 

[volume]

Quote:

ya know.. i had the stax pads, and although they obviously sounded great, and were made well.  i always thought they could be done a lot better if someone had the know how and resources. 
for instance:
they had good foam, but not all that much - it was like a 1/2" thick donut if i recall..
in general the whole feel of the pad was a bit loose and sloppy.. in the sense that everything sort of slid around and didnt feel as thick or tight as it could have
it seemed like it could have been more plump, and stuffed more.  tighter and rounder if that makes any sense
i envision something more like the ah-d2000 pads, or the j$$ pads as a better design, or at least pads that are fatter and tighter in their design
also if they had some better mechanism or maybe something elastic to help hold them tight to the cups or just hold them firmly against the cans somehow, that would be very good! otherwise they just kind of float there, they slide around easily, and they just dont feel nearly as secure or precise as they could
 
the stax pads were basically a foam donut wrapped in leather, with a little plastic ring to help hold the shape.
 
 
anyway i hope ya'll have good luck with this.. i bet you'd easily have some buyers if you made a few extras
 

that is right, if you made more then you need you could always sell them.

 

[yellowjeep]

While waiting for parts for a different project I was looking at wood on eBay and ran across these
http://cgi.ebay.com/QS-BLACK-CHERRY-WOOD-TURNING-BOWL-BLANK-LATHE-LUMBER-/110598743821?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19c032e70d#ht_500wt_1156
 
Seems like it would be pretty ideal for some one like me as some of the work has been done, I could be wrong though and it depends on how accurate the seller measurements are. 

 

[smeggy]

just to let you know, after a year waxed, there's a very good chance those will still be pretty damp inside and prone to shrinkage and cracking as they dry after you turn them. One of the things I do if I find wood still damp is to turn off the wax, maybe cut it in half and put the pieces inside a thick paper grocery bag and close the end up. It's generally a decent way to accelerate the drying while keeping the environment inside the bag dampish so they can dry quicker but not too quickly. I've had pretty good luck with this and haven't lost many pieces to cracks.

 

[yellowjeep]

Very good point I hadn't even thought about that.