[NapalmK]

Quote:

I am in Canada, Audio-Technica doesn't sell directly here.  You have to go through Jam Industries, and they want $86 per pad plus addition fees on top.  And that doesn't even include shipping costs.  Its insane.
 
As a result, I ordered Stax pads.

Wow that's ridiculous! I ended up getting my Stax pads off ebay for somewhat less than audiocubes which was a nice surprise.

 

[Bigrock2150]

It's good to see that we have another active modder! Can't wait to see more thunderpants! 
 
I might be making another one soon as well.

 

[rehabitat]

Quote:

also, momomo is banned ???? what?

Sorry to be off topic but this bothers me.  I tried to look at his profile just now and also a few days ago to find out what happened but I just keep getting an internal 'system error' message.
 
My impression from this is that our "great leaders" are merciless in their judgments and that significant and helpful contributions, such as many of momomo's posts on this thread, are ignored and not taken into account.  Something fishy and vaguely fascist going on here...needless to say, I hope I am wrong.
 
Let's see if this post gets me banned 

, otherwise I'll see you anon

 

[n3rdling]

You're wrong.
 
As for pads, I got my extra O2 pads from Japan for about $70 IIRC.

 

[rehabitat]

Please explain?  Your insight will be appreciated.
 
PM me if you think it more appropriate.

 

[volume]

What are the Thunderpants usually cost to build and are there DIYers who assist in that regards.

 

[jjinh]

Quote:

You're wrong.
 
As for pads, I got my extra O2 pads from Japan for about $70 IIRC.

 
For that price I'd buy some spares.
 
Quote:

What are the Thunderpants usually cost to build and are there DIYers who assist in that regards.

They're built by Smeggy.

 

[Epoch]

By assistance do you mean people who can supply you with parts or do you mean feedback and information?  There seems to be a bit of both from what I am seeing.
 
I assume you are asking about cost as there is a pair up for sale in the forums, and I would suggest that price varies quite a bit depending upon where you live and if you can do all of the work yourself.  Pads, cables and connectors can also add up since you need to recable the headphones to complete the modification.  If you don't have tools already that needs to be considered as well.
 
If you haven't done some DIY stuff before I suggest that this might be a non-trivial project to undertake.

 

[VulgarDisplay]

Has anyone tried making a pair of these using hole saws? I think perhaps I shall be the first.  
 
I plan on using a 4" hole saw to cut out a circular hunk of wood, and then running a 3.5" hole saw through that.  Then I can screw a back onto that tube.  I like this idea because I could switch between open backed and closed very easily when trying to tune these beasts.  I'm not sure it will come out very pretty, but it should be possible to make some ghetto cans this way.  Building the baffle and the rest using the same tools shouldn't be too hard.  
 
I'm on the fence about ordering these right now, but if I do I'll most definately try to make these super shoddy TP's.  

 

[yellowjeep]

If done right I think they could look pretty good. Even using alternating light and dark finishes on the word. The only issue I foresee is getting them to seal correctly but I imagine this could be overcome pretty easily. 

 

[smeggy]

I use holesaws all the time. You'll need to go a little over 4" though as that is the size of the actual hole, and you want the piece that's cut out to be 4" dia. so the saw will need to be 4-1/8" or slightly bigger to give you a 4" blank. Also, to cut a 3-1/2" hole in the middle of that needs some careful clamping as the walls end up pretty thin and you don't want to crush the walls into the saw and jam things, so be careful doing it, the wood at that thickness will crack really easily. Other than that, should work dandy.

 

[rehabitat]

Great idea.  It might be worth doing in mdf, at least as a trial run anyway as it will be less likely to crack and won't matter as much.  You could easily sand and paint to make it a little less ghetto.  Hey, how about decoupage???  

 
Good luck and please report back on your progress.
 
edit: you have a drill press no?  handheld will not do.

 

[zenpunk]

After following the different ortho threats I also got curious and was lucky to snatch a very cheap pair of Fostex T50RP on ebay. I have been looking into modding them and after experimenting a bit I feel I might enjoy those drivers in some sort of semi-open housing. 
But when you look at the cost of of rehousing them (I don't have any tools to work with woods) I thought about  getting a cheap broken pair of confortable headphone (beyer or AKG types) and use those to stick the Fostex driver in. I need to work out a suitable housing, size wize.
Would love to find a broken DT880 or K240and use that. Any recommendation and tips  would be appreciated. 

 

[joelpearce]

With the structure of the T50RP baffle, you could run into a really hard time wedging them into a different housing.  A Yamaha or PMB ortho driver might be a lot more promising for that goal.
 
That said, I'm sure it's possible.  You might lose all the bass and sound quality in an open/semi-open configuration, though.  Just to warn you.

 

[VulgarDisplay]

Quote:

I use holesaws all the time. You'll need to go a little over 4" though as that is the size of the actual hole, and you want the piece that's cut out to be 4" dia. so the saw will need to be 4-1/8" or slightly bigger to give you a 4" blank. Also, to cut a 3-1/2" hole in the middle of that needs some careful clamping as the walls end up pretty thin and you don't want to crush the walls into the saw and jam things, so be careful doing it, the wood at that thickness will crack really easily. Other than that, should work dandy.

Would there be any problems with the sound seeing as the inside of this can would not be concave?  I was kind of considering wrapping them in some fiberglass and putting some bondo and a nice spraypaint finish on them to get the thickness back up.  It would also strengthen the cups greatly, and allow me to use some cheap wood at least the first time around.  
 
If I decide to just stick with the wood it should be fine if my cups are slightly smaller then 4 inches as long as my baffles are that big where I screw them onto the cups.  I'm in the very early stages of planning this build, and I'm not sure what size hole saws I can actually buy.  As a relative newbie to head-fi I figure I could contribute a decent way for people without access to a lathe to build a set of these with just a few tools.