[pickleweed]

So I had a set of I's.....and they were every bit as sharp and high as everyone said.  but i loved them anyways, and sold them to try other things.
 
just picked up a set of IS's because i missed my grados, and theyre not anywhere NEAR the highs that the I's were.  so either the IS's really tamed them, or there is a BIG sound difference between individual cans.  I cant believe these are considered the same cans (sort of).

 

[ruthieandjohn]

The SR325is was made by Grado AFTER the SR325i and after complaints about the extreme brightness of the SR325i. Hence it is likely that Grado indeed toned down the brightness of the SR325is in response.

I have both and I agree... the SR325i is brighter. In fact it is the brightest of my 22 Grado headphones. I like it for that reason... it is the extreme.

 

[joseph69]

  So I had a set of I's.....and they were every bit as sharp and high as everyone said.  but i loved them anyways, and sold them to try other things.
 
just picked up a set of IS's because i missed my grados, and theyre not anywhere NEAR the highs that the I's were.  so either the IS's really tamed them, or there is a BIG sound difference between individual cans.  I cant believe these are considered the same cans (sort of).

So which do/did you prefer?

 

[pickleweed]

  So which do/did you prefer?

 
well I havent had the IS's that long yet, but i think i prefer them.  there's nothing harsh or fatiguing anymore.  they seem more balanced than before.  I often found myself EQing the I's just to soften it out because it was SHARP as much as i loved them.  I couldnt imagine the e's if they took it down another notch from this. 
 
i will say the pads on this one are noticeably softer, so i wonder if thats partially responsible as well.

 

[joseph69]

   
well I havent had the IS's that long yet, but i think i prefer them.  there's nothing harsh or fatiguing anymore.  they seem more balanced than before.  I often found myself EQing the I's just to soften it out because it was SHARP as much as i loved them.  I couldnt imagine the e's if they took it down another notch from this. 
 
i will say the pads on this one are noticeably softer, so i wonder if thats partially responsible as well.

Although I've never heard an (i) series I do love my (is) series.

 

[NymPHONOmaniac]

Hum, My beloved Grado sr325i have the cable of is right earcups begining to fall appart, we can see the inner wire and I know a cable change will be needed soon....
was wondering if anybody know how and if their a a gentle headfier that give pictures to show the correct way to do it???
 
Any Grado Angels to help me???

 

[WilliamLeonhart]

  Hum, My beloved Grado sr325i have the cable of is right earcups begining to fall appart, we can see the inner wire and I know a cable change will be needed soon....
was wondering if anybody know how and if their a a gentle headfier that give pictures to show the correct way to do it???
 
Any Grado Angels to help me???

This is the thread you're looking for
 
http://www.head-fi.org/t/119314/post-your-grado-mods

 

[ruthieandjohn]

Hum, My beloved Grado sr325i have the cable of is right earcups begining to fall appart, we can see the inner wire and I know a cable change will be needed soon....
was wondering if anybody know how and if their a a gentle headfier that give pictures to show the correct way to do it???

Any Grado Angels to help me???

If it were I, I would ask Grado Labs for a quote. I seem to remember that they fix nearly anything on a Prestige series headphone for a flat rate of about $45.

 

[bbophead]

 

Hum, My beloved Grado sr325i have the cable of is right earcups begining to fall appart, we can see the inner wire and I know a cable change will be needed soon....
was wondering if anybody know how and if their a a gentle headfier that give pictures to show the correct way to do it???

Any Grado Angels to help me???

If it were I, I would ask Grado Labs for a quote. I seem to remember that they fix nearly anything on a Prestige series headphone for a flat rate of about $45.

Unless there's been any mods.

 

[NymPHONOmaniac]

Okay thaks all, will go in the other tread.
I already contact Grado and it was very expensive from here in Canada, like 85$ shipping not include.

 

[joseph69]

  Okay thaks all, will go in the other tread.
I already contact Grado and it was very expensive from here in Canada, like 85$ shipping not include.

Split the driver/cup and re-solder the cable, no?

 

[kirenoj]

I also have a pair of the Grado 325 wich i belive is the "is" version. Its silver with serial nr. 5236. And has a 1,7m cable and 6,3mm. The cable is 1,7m and a little too short for my setup but i also have a Grado extension cable so then its good.Can anyone confim if i have "i" or "is" or "nothing" ?
Thanks

 

[joseph69]

  I also have a pair of the Grado 325 wich i belive is the "is" version. Its silver with serial nr. 5236. And has a 1,7m cable and 6,3mm. The cable is 1,7m and a little too short for my setup but i also have a Grado extension cable so then its good.Can anyone confim if i have "i" or "is" or "nothing" ?
Thanks

Post a photo.

 

[NymPHONOmaniac]

  Split the driver/cup and re-solder the cable, no?

Yeah, this is surely what I will do at last resort,
this is what my cable look like.
 

I will try to find a tutorial to split the cups without any risk, only one I found was about plastic grado....
I sell my Grado GS1000 because I could not convince myself to be brave enough to split a 1000$ cups

Must admit I have a love-hate affair with grado products.

 

[joseph69]

  Yeah, this is surely what I will do at last resort,
this is what my cable look like.
 
 
I will try to find a tutorial to split the cups without any risk, only one I found was about plastic grado....
I sell my Grado GS1000 because I could not convince myself to be brave enough to split a 1000$ cups

Must admit I have a love-hate affair with grado products.

It looks like the plastic sleeve has come undone…do they still work?
 
It is very easy to split the cups on the 325…wrap a twist tie around the right cable coming from the right driver so you know which is L/R when re-assemblig, then with the (driver side up) spread the plastic gimbals apart until the cups are free from the gimbals, then (with the driver side down) slowly heat around the aluminum cups with a hair dryer (not too much heat) then pull the drivers out of the cups. You'll see a ring inside each of the cups…these rings seat/stop the drivers from going too far into the cups when re-assembling. Clean all of the glue off the drivers/cups/rings (I use Goo be Gone). Then install the rings inside the cups, and using a hot glue gun, put a 1/8-3/16" bead of glue inside the cups just above the rings and set the drivers into the cups until they cannot go any further, then place them into the gimbals and your done. Very, very easy procedure.