[JiggaD369]

Sounds interesting but pushing the transistors into oscillation doesn't sound like a good idea.

 

[CrucifixationOfFaith]

... and that is why you should directly "back up" the op-amp with caps (low esr + foil).

 

[Bacci]

How do these layman Black Cube Linears (Chinese pcb but with mouser parts) compare to e.g. AMB M^3? Looking for my next DIY project with +/- 200$ to burn

 

[ringer]

 
My amp

 

[Knusperfisch]

Nice

 
And you replaced the 4700µF and 470µF caps with what kind of caps?
Can you hear an improvement?

 

[JiggaD369]

When replacing the BD13916/14016 and LM317/337, does there need to be any matching done (as in the case of BC550C/560C)?

 

[ringer]

Quote:

Nice

 
And you replaced the 4700µF and 470µF caps with what kind of caps?
Can you hear an improvement?

 
Thanks

 
The big caps is Epcos LongLife 4700uF 50V 105C. It is good caps I think. I didn't try Nichicon Gold Tune 5600uF 50V, because I doubt that it's real Nichicon (maybe I'm paranoid

).

 
The 470uF caps is Epcos 35V 105C. I've change them because of heating. I think that 85C is not enough. It is not the best choice, but I didn't find any better in local stores. I didn't notice difference in sound compared to Elna.

 
Also I've used another BD transistors.

 

[ringer]

Quote:

When replacing the BD13916/14016 and LM317/337, does there need to be any matching done (as in the case of BC550C/560C)?

There is no need to replace LM317/337 I think.
 
For BD139-16/140-16 it is better to find with 5% hFE deviation.

 

[DarkskyZ]

 
 

 
Here are other pictures : http://tinyurl.com/5wtyqbs
 
Got it last week, fully assembled. This is my very first amp but I really love the sound I get !
 
Thanks Stephen 

 

[TheKisho]

I'm just about to order the kit for this amp.  I want an op-amp better than the one that comes with the amp and better then the class-A mod dual OPA627.  I'm new to op-amps.  Currently I'm using a Indeed headphone amp (same as bravo hybrid) with a clear, flat, uncolored and transparent Siemens ECC88 A-frame tube (with IRF 630 output MOSFET).  [I'm sure nobody here has ever mess with that sort of stuff.  (That tube should probably sound similar in another device)].  I love to keep this sound, but I want something that is solid state that I can through in my bag and take with me without worrying about damaging tubes.  I'm thinking about the LT1364 and I want to know if it fit the bill for what I'm looking for, and how do I make it class-A biased?
 
The ideal sound I want from an op-amp:
-A nice big soundstage that matches my headphones nicely
-A nice flat balanced frequency response that has good extension on both the high end and on the low end
-Very detailed and analytical
-A tad bit weighty
-Transparent and clear
-Good amount of low level detail (sensitive)
-Good Imaging
-Sibilance is alright only if it's in the source file and it's being true to the source
-Keep music feeling natural & musical while being accurate to source
-Fast, but not too fast to seem unnatural or too slow to be muddy
-NOT boomy, bloated, bassy, colored, congested, gentle, grungy, honky, mellow, layed back, muddy, muffled, smeared, warm, veiled, or tubby.
 
 
If this op-amp doesn't match ^, do you know any one that will work better for the task.
 
P.S.  I'm into AKG headphones, so I'd really enjoy the input from fellow AKG people (all opinion welcome, but don't be shy AKG people (and if you are one, please say so in your post)).
 
P.P.S.  What is the common basic mods and upgrades that most people here do to their amp these days.

 

[ringer]

Quote:

I'm just about to order the kit for this amp.  I want an op-amp better than the one that comes with the amp and better then the class-A mod dual OPA627.  I'm new to op-amps.  Currently I'm using a Indeed headphone amp (same as bravo hybrid) with a clear, flat, uncolored and transparent Siemens ECC88 A-frame tube (with IRF 630 output MOSFET).  [I'm sure nobody here has ever mess with that sort of stuff.  (That tube should probably sound similar in another device)].  I love to keep this sound, but I want something that is solid state that I can through in my bag and take with me without worrying about damaging tubes.  I'm thinking about the LT1364 and I want to know if it fit the bill for what I'm looking for, and how do I make it class-A biased?
 
The ideal sound I want from an op-amp:
-A nice big soundstage that matches my headphones nicely
-A nice flat balanced frequency response that has good extension on both the high end and on the low end
-Very detailed and analytical
-A tad bit weighty
-Transparent and clear
-Good amount of low level detail (sensitive)
-Good Imaging
-Sibilance is alright only if it's in the source file and it's being true to the source
-Keep music feeling natural & musical while being accurate to source
-Fast, but not too fast to seem unnatural or too slow to be muddy
-NOT boomy, bloated, bassy, colored, congested, gentle, grungy, honky, mellow, layed back, muddy, muffled, smeared, warm, veiled, or tubby.
 
 
If this op-amp doesn't match ^, do you know any one that will work better for the task.
 
P.S.  I'm into AKG headphones, so I'd really enjoy the input from fellow AKG people (all opinion welcome, but don't be shy AKG people (and if you are one, please say so in your post)).
 
P.P.S.  What is the common basic mods and upgrades that most people here do to their amp these days.

I'm listen LC with MBQuart 450 PRO. Don't know how the sound would be with AKG. But MBQuart has the best sound with the 2134 (stock OPAMP). The most comfort and slightly more dark sound with 627 class A mod. I also have tube amplifier Laconic HA-02, and I think LC with stock OPAMP sounds more naturally. But tubes is tubes, your favorite songs which gives you maximum pleasure with your tube amp will never sounds exactly the same way with transistor amp.

 

[BlaBlaBla]

 
Quote:

I'm just about to order the kit for this amp.  I want an op-amp better than the one that comes with the amp and better then the class-A mod dual OPA627.  I'm new to op-amps.  Currently I'm using a Indeed headphone amp (same as bravo hybrid) with a clear, flat, uncolored and transparent Siemens ECC88 A-frame tube (with IRF 630 output MOSFET).  [I'm sure nobody here has ever mess with that sort of stuff.  (That tube should probably sound similar in another device)].  I love to keep this sound, but I want something that is solid state that I can through in my bag and take with me without worrying about damaging tubes.  I'm thinking about the LT1364 and I want to know if it fit the bill for what I'm looking for, and how do I make it class-A biased?
 
The ideal sound I want from an op-amp:
-A nice big soundstage that matches my headphones nicely
-A nice flat balanced frequency response that has good extension on both the high end and on the low end
-Very detailed and analytical
-A tad bit weighty
-Transparent and clear
-Good amount of low level detail (sensitive)
-Good Imaging
-Sibilance is alright only if it's in the source file and it's being true to the source
-Keep music feeling natural & musical while being accurate to source
-Fast, but not too fast to seem unnatural or too slow to be muddy
-NOT boomy, bloated, bassy, colored, congested, gentle, grungy, honky, mellow, layed back, muddy, muffled, smeared, warm, veiled, or tubby.
 
 
If this op-amp doesn't match ^, do you know any one that will work better for the task.
 
P.S.  I'm into AKG headphones, so I'd really enjoy the input from fellow AKG people (all opinion welcome, but don't be shy AKG people (and if you are one, please say so in your post)).
 
P.P.S.  What is the common basic mods and upgrades that most people here do to their amp these days.

 
Maybe you need too much.

You should try OPA2107. If it is too bright and wide then you can put it into A class and get stronger mid range. OPA627 is too expensive.
 

 

[BlaBlaBla]

 
Quote:

 
Thanks

 
The big caps is Epcos LongLife 4700uF 50V 105C. It is good caps I think. I didn't try Nichicon Gold Tune 5600uF 50V, because I doubt that it's real Nichicon (maybe I'm paranoid

).

 
The 470uF caps is Epcos 35V 105C. I've change them because of heating. I think that 85C is not enough. It is not the best choice, but I didn't find any better in local stores. I didn't notice difference in sound compared to Elna.

 
Also I've used another BD transistors.

Agree. I also think that stock capacitor is far from genuine nichicon. But it works. At least for now. You do not need 85°C on input because capacitors are large and have good heat dissipation.  After 2 hours of playing they are warm because rest equipment, but I think below 45°C.
 
Those capacitors between regulators and transistors are something else. I think that stock Elna (85°C) are far from "optimal choice". After 2 hours of playing on easy headphones temperature raises above 50°C which is close to their (85°C) rated temperature. And now, it is winter in my country. What will be when summer comes?
I put there Panasonic FM/FC.
 
Epcos (genuine) makes are excellent capacitors. Long life and very robust. If they are made by genuine Epcos,  they will last much longer than other parts in your amplifier.
 
But beware! Maybe you have problems with rectifier? If input capacitors are too warm after few minutes of work, then you should check rectifier diodes. Maybe they are leaking too much and your capacitors are negatively polarised for a short time. I always check diode resistance in both ways. (I know this is not good enough but it tells me if diode is a bad product or not). In open direction It has to be in miliohm range, and in a close direction in a megaohm range. Input capacitors have to be cold for a long time, after turn on. And became warm only because of heat of rest equipment (pick up the heat - not making it).

 

[BlaBlaBla]

PRPs are soldered.
Now I am waiting for MJE, 10k signal resistors (I am so stupid. I forgot to buy them when I was buying the rest...), Vout capacitors (on regulator), input capacitors (signal) and 10R carbon resistors for output.
 
I also bought bigger heatsinks because I do not believe in the fairytale about "it has to be warm because it sounds better". My ass. I just do not believe in that audiophile crap. In a power network, usually, when something becomes too hot and close to the limit, it dies. In a very short time. Why would Lovely Cube be an exception?
 
Picture of soldered parts on PCB will be here, when I come home.

 

[JiggaD369]

Will a 35MM height cap fit for the big PSU caps?