SR60-Mod
May 12, 2011 at 6:59 PM Post #3,811 of 5,004


Quote:
Guys check out the article about grado pads stock and mods. and there is also a link to thise thread at the end 
biggrin.gif

http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/evaluation-grado-stock-and-modified-ear-pads
 
 

 
nice to see some actual recorded data :)
 
I'm going to try out that tape mod
 

 
Quote:
In the graph above, we can see that the taped pads (red) have about 5dB less energy than the stock bowls (blue) between 1.5kHz and 3kHz. This is exactly the region that troubles me. You'll also see a slight increase in bass response, and between the settling of the 2kHz stuff and the rise in bass you end up with a little less dished mid-range (though now tilted somewhat).

 
 
May 12, 2011 at 7:04 PM Post #3,812 of 5,004
with what do i can stick the carbon fiber toghether?... i mean with glue, silicone, what?... in my country, this is selled as fibres, in some bags...  or should i search for another form of it?... i mean i did not did any searches!....
 
and, do not worry, you were fun enought.,.. is just that everybody in here is from different parts, and no one really can speak gramatically correct,,... i will be able in 2 years, because my english teacher, makes english the hardest thing in the school... actually i am in 9th year of studies (in my country this is high school, 1st year) and i am the best from the entire school....
 
so, i may have mistakes, and i am sorry for that.... and do not worry, you were funny, but nobody that is from any other zone than america, angland and canada, will not laugh... because they are not native english speakers, and is pretty hard to learn gramatically english.... i know i do make mistakes...
 
May 12, 2011 at 7:22 PM Post #3,813 of 5,004


Quote:
 
 
Actually, from his previous post I think skerry is not from an english speaking country, so I think he's doing very well communicating here. 
 
How many languages do you write in without gramatical errors?
 


 


 
 




erm.......? let me think..? well ? None
tongue_smile.gif

 
Music is our universal language & I prefer that without harmonic errors  .
 
May 12, 2011 at 7:34 PM Post #3,814 of 5,004
Doing some research would do you no harm.
 
The most popular way is to use expoxy with some hardener, and that's how I did it. You buy these "fibers in some bags", at this point it's silk-alike. Then you put it on your form, PVC pipe worked very well for me, and then put a thin layer of epoxy. It then needs some time to dry/harden depending on the epoxy you used, I went with 30 minute one. If you can't buy it along with CF then check in a local modeling store, actually that's where I got my fiber and epoxy.
 
Without counting the drying time in all it takes is a few minutes of work, a child could do that easly.
 
If you use search function you will find Billavedo posting helpfull links to tutorials on YouTube earlier in this thread. There are lots of such videos out there.
 
May 12, 2011 at 9:34 PM Post #3,815 of 5,004


Quote:
 
Ok Thanks for the info . Since it only takes a  short time to re-open the shells now. I will Try out Dampening the back of the magnets Again, but this time both shells .Maybe Any  change,if any, would be better heard in stereo . Though Grado dampens the back in their higher models, we don't have the information on why they do this only in the higher models .Are the lower models just down graded or are some of the difference's only related to the individual models. I.E - Having different drivers or constructed from different materials .
If only all this closed information was open for all to see all would be a lot clearer .


There is a lot of mixed opinions as to what exactly differs the high end from the low end when it comes to Grado's.. But, the materials and housings certainly make a difference.. As far as changes to the drivers, one can really only speculate.
 


Quote:
sorry, i am not from england, or an english main country... i am from romania, and u see, i have to learn english, latin, french, deutsch, romanian and some portughese.... this country is the only one where u must learn everything to be good!.....


That seems to be a ridiculous amount of languages to learn. I could hardly pass Spanish II. I think you are doing just fine :D
 
Quote:
Doing some research would do you no harm.
 
The most popular way is to use expoxy with some hardener, and that's how I did it. You buy these "fibers in some bags", at this point it's silk-alike. Then you put it on your form, PVC pipe worked very well for me, and then put a thin layer of epoxy. It then needs some time to dry/harden depending on the epoxy you used, I went with 30 minute one. If you can't buy it along with CF then check in a local modeling store, actually that's where I got my fiber and epoxy.
 
Without counting the drying time in all it takes is a few minutes of work, a child could do that easly.
 
If you use search function you will find Billavedo posting helpfull links to tutorials on YouTube earlier in this thread. There are lots of such videos out there.

 
Hmmm. Maybe I'll look into making some CF cups this summer. Seems easier than woodworking for sure and they just look freaking awesome. 
 
May 13, 2011 at 2:16 PM Post #3,824 of 5,004
OK, since this essentially the Grado S60 "mod thread" - yet, we've covered many models - SR60, 80, 125, 225, 325, etc. - it's sort of morphing into a "complete" Grado Mod thread, which isn't such a bad thing.
 
On that note, I've been searching through the other threads on the forum today to pull up some previous items that I've read about and suspect it might be a good thing to include them in here - because they are essentially a "mod".  The issue I wanted to note was that where people have experienced problems with their "rods" slipping and the Grados not gripping the comfortable listening fit over time.  Many suggestions have been made in the other threads: Use "O" rings, Use clear nail polish to paint over the chrome rods where they'll be covered by the black "L" and "R" blocks, etc.  There was also another "mod" that intrigued me a bit.  It was the use of a locking shaft collar - and people would install one on bottom and one on the top of the black blocks - and, secure the set screw with a hex wrench to keep the favorite listening "fit" for the heaphones in a fixed state.  Apparently, in Europe, a 3mm collar is the correct size, while here in the U.S., a 1/8" (inner dimension collar) is the one to get.
 
I did a bit of Google searching as I was just getting settled into my work day and came up with quite a few solutions as far as "sourcing" these parts.  The biggest pitfall would have been waiting until Monday for them to arrive - and I live in a larger metro area.  However, the weekend seems like it's going to be an inside weekend due to rain, so I want to focus on hobby stuff.  I did make some orders for Monday's arrival, but pushed further and found that my local Grainger store (Grainger.com) had about 17 of these (3-pack) shaft collars in the 1/8" size.  They come out to be $3.15 per pack of 3.  The finish is just plain zinc silver, for this option and price.  However, that's what I'll work with for now.  Needless to say, I snapped up 4 packs.
 
They are manufacturered by Dayton Electric Mfg. Co. out of Illinois.  However, the standard part number for this 3-pack is 1L625.  Also, Ruland is another manufacturer that Grainger deals with and you can order their part and get it delivered.  Ruland offers Zinc silver, Zinc black, Stainless Steel, and aluminum options - depending on what your preferences, price zone and wait time is like.  Also, I found another supplier that's sending me some from another manufactuer - similar to Dayton, but they are only .57 cents each and I'll get 16 of them on Monday.
 
Whew!  Sorry about all the writing.  I'll get some actual pictures up later this evening or early tomorrow of how the "finished" installation appears.  Meanwhile, here is a picture of the Dayton shaft collar from their Web site.
 

 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top