[robrob]

 

Spoiler: Warning: Newbie at work!

[size=13.3333330154419px][/size]

Spoiler: Warning: Newbie at work!

 
Let's hope I got this right... 

 Don't worry guys, this is just a test configuration so I can swap between different networks and find the one that works best for me! The end result will look better (I hope...)!

Very cool test rig!

 

[Chris J]

Values of the pictured resistors are R2: 6.8 ohms 5W, R3: 1.2 ohms 5W, wire wound ceramic encased resistors. Don't think there will be a need for "magical" resistors, as I'm getting quite satisfactory results with the cheap resistors I'm using now. The size and shape of these particular resistors also make them quite easy to work with, even for a beginner like me!   I'm actually already getting the kind of attenuation I was aiming for with these resistors, but I'm also going to try at least one more configuration using a 8.2 ohm 5W and 0,33 ohm 5W just for kicks. The final design is going to have a selector switch for using either a R2+R3 network or simply a 10 ohm resistor in parallel, with everything built in to a nice aluminum enclosure (I will probably finish this project around spring 2018...  ).

Spring 2018?
What's the rush?
Slow down!

 

[Sonic Defender]

  You protect your headphones by  lol..  Don't take this the wrong way...   By you controlling the volume knob.  Start at 0 each time and work your way up to a confortable listening level.  That's the way I've always done it.  Just be careful not to turn the amp on with the headphones pluged in and the volume way up.  
 
The last level I was listening at useally is a safe place to leave it - So I turn it off and on at that same position.

Hi preproman, can I get your input here? I want to have speaker taps made for my HE 560 to use with my NAD M3 which runs 180watts into 8ohm and 480watts into 40hm. Is there any reason with this amp I should need the HiFi Man adapter box? Based on my limited technical knowledge and reading on the subject, the HFM adapter box may have a small, but negative impact on sound quality which I wish to avoid. However, if avoiding this slight sonic penalty means taking a big risk damaging my headphones I don't think I would do so. I am quite comfortable turning the gain down and adjusting it up each time so if that is enough of a safety precaution why even bother with adapter boxes such as the HiFi Man box?

 

[preproman]

Assuming your NAD is a Solid State amp then there is no need for the box.  I'm working with 250 watts into 8 ohms, never had a issue.  Just be careful with the volume and you should be all good.

 

[Sonic Defender]

  Assuming your NAD is a Solid State amp then there is no need for the box.  I'm working with 250 watts into 8 ohms, never had a issue.  Just be careful with the volume and you should be all good.

Excellent, and yes it is a SS amp. Do you feel that using a speaker amp with fairly current hungry headphones tends to perform better than say a typical headphone amplifier? It seems there is a feeling that an amplifier designed with headphones as the target load will produce a better amplifier topology for the intended load. I lack technical knowledge to the point where I really can't say one way or the other. What are your thoughts? My line of reasoning is that I have already invested in a nice amp, the NAD, so there really isn't a need for a separate headphone amp when the NAD should at least be as close to as good as my Yulong A18, or so I would hope.

 

[preproman]

Well, when I was doing all my trials on different headphone amps vs. different speaker amps with the (HE-6).  I and a few others found more times than not the speaker amp had what it took to get the HE-6 to sound listenable.  
 
I now have the 560 but I don't have all the headphone amps I had before, so I can't really do the same comparison as before.   
 
So you have to do some grunt work and come up with your own conclusion.  Just like headphone amps, all speaker amps sound different so you have to get the one that fits your tastes.  
 
One of the good things about already owning speaker amps and / or vintage receivers -  you might have a gem and don't even know it.  Chances are if the NAD sounds good with speakers it should do a good job with the 560.
 
Do you already have this?
 

 

[Sonic Defender]

  Well, when I was doing all my trials on different headphone amps vs. different speaker amps with the (HE-6).  I and a few others found more times than not the speaker amp had what it took to get the HE-6 to sound listenable.  
 
I now have the 560 but I don't have all the headphone amps I had before, so I can't really do the same comparison as before.   
 
So you have to do some grunt work and come up with your own conclusion.  Just like headphone amps, all speaker amps sound different so you have to get the one that fits your tastes.  
 
One of the good things about already owning speaker amps and / or vintage receivers -  you might have a gem and don't even know it.  Chances are if the NAD sounds good with speakers it should do a good job with the 560.
 
Do you already have this?
 

I am getting quotes to have just such a critter made for my 560. If you have somebody you recommend I am very happy for the suggestion(s). Thanks to you, and everyone who has been responding and helping me with this new approach.

 

[Wildcatsare1]

I am getting quotes to have just such a critter made for my 560. If you have somebody you recommend I am very happy for the suggestion(s). Thanks to you, and everyone who has been responding and helping me with this new approach.

Theogenes had an excellent Norne Draug Cable to 4 pin XLR, very much like Preprrman's. Trevor at Norne does excellent work, and more importantly it sounds spectacular. His Vanquish is also excellent, but I prefer the Draug 2's with the 560's.

 

[Sonic Defender]

Theogenes had an excellent Norne Draug Cable to 4 pin XLR, very much like Preprrman's. Trevor at Norne does excellent work, and more importantly it sounds spectacular. His Vanquish is also excellent, but I prefer the Draug 2's with the 560's.

Thanks Wildcatsare1, I will look into them, but to an extent I am price sensitive as I need 12 feet and there is no way I am going to pay more than $400 for the cable. I am not questioning whether or not the materials and workmanship are worth that kind of money, I just can't justify that type of expense. I will see about the pricing, but I'm not hopeful as I suspect 12 feet will be at least $500 with all the trimmings.

 

[gjc11028]

Thanks Wildcatsare1, I will look into them, but to an extent I am price sensitive as I need 12 feet and there is no way I am going to pay more than $400 for the cable. I am not questioning whether or not the materials and workmanship are worth that kind of money, I just can't justify that type of expense. I will see about the pricing, but I'm not hopeful as I suspect 12 feet will be at least $500 with all the trimmings.

I would also recommend norne. The vanquish is within your price at 12 feet (although listed at temporarily out of stock).

 

[Sonic Defender]

I would also recommend norne. The vanquish is within your price at 12 feet (although listed at temporarily out of stock).

Thanks to both of you, I have already sent a quote request to Trevor at Norne with what I need. Hopefully it is within my budget. The extra expense is that I want the cable in two sections, so I end up needing two adapters in the cable. I want to have a 4 foot length always attached to my speaker terminals, but I need to detach the headphone at the cable, not on the cups. We'll see what Trevor says. I will update once I find out. Really love the look of the Norne cables, just wish they had images of the different colour options to make it easier to choose. Cheers.

 

[Dopaminer]

 
Thanks to both of you, I have already sent a quote request to Trevor at Norne with what I need. Hopefully it is within my budget. The extra expense is that I want the cable in two sections, so I end up needing two adapters in the cable. I want to have a 4 foot length always attached to my speaker terminals, but I need to detach the headphone at the cable, not on the cups. We'll see what Trevor says. I will update once I find out. Really love the look of the Norne cables, just wish they had images of the different colour options to make it easier to choose. Cheers.

I`ve just ordered a `rhodium spades to XLR4` cable from Zynsonix, a maker I stumbled on through image searching.  Had really good communication with him so took the plunge. I haven`t received it yet but will post when I do.  I think he`ll be within your target price range. 
 
d

 

[camusmuse]

Thought I would share my progress so far.  Made this up as  a proof of concept before I started tearing into to my main headphones and connecting up to some of my my more expensive amps.  The resistor network will be housed in some sort of inert "box"; I was going to use some 1" square aluminum tubing with an ID that fit the Neutrik panel mount connectors, one male, one female, so that I could make a few different networks for different cables/cans/amps.  Basically an "inline" network that can be easily changed and even eliminated if need be.  The cans here were part of a scanner setup, horrible SQ, but they are comfortable and I think the drivers could be replaced easily.  I did dual 3-pin mini xlr to the cans and full size xlr for the "breakout" to the amp.  I also made a single ended cable out of a old prefab 3.5mm trs cable and another full sixe 4-pin xlr.  Besides that, all of the wire is an old "audiophile" speaker wire that I have lying around and have made custom speaker cables from before.  Vecteur Cable made in France some time in the 80's or 90's I think.  Solid core twisted pair 20AWG in a neat clear cover.  Not very flexible, not very comfortable, but the cable does have a really nice midrange and I am hoping it will help out the anemic midrange of my  DT770 80Ohm.  I am wondering if I should get the 250ohm version, or didnt they make a 600ohm version at one time?  Should I really worry about getting high impedance drivers for my speaker amp specific "projects".  I plan on building several different versions.  I am thinking of getting some braided copper tubing for EFI and to "marry" the cables here until they split for the cans. 
 
Some pics of my work, not my best, but soldering mini xlr isnt any worse than making those old S-video cables...I still cringe when I think of them....lol.  The next cable will be a single 4-pin mini xlr with four conductor wire to one "can" then bridge the other signal over the headband like the stock Beyers.  I have become accustomed to the mobility of one cable with the ease to put it over my back.  I have noticed that I have my full size xlr male/female "backward" from most of the cables I have seen, any real difference besides compatibility with other peoples' cables?
 
To the amp... still need to attach spade connectors on amp side...size depends on what amp I start with so I havent terminated them at all yet.
 

 
 
Headphones and cable to the amp cable above or resistor box(yet to be made...)  ...again the current drivers are junk, look like computer speakers and are marked at 8ohms even.  So yeah, the hunt is on for some good drivers.  Comfort is a prime concern for me, and my huge head....lol...some of the smaller cans just end up hurting my head too much.  I can and do wear my Beyers for hours and hours at a time.  The cans below could use some velour pads and a little bigger opening, but obviously these will be my "test mules".  I unplugged one cable just to show the connector.  The black tape is temporary until I decide on the best way to marry the two cables.
 

 
 
Finally the premade 3.5mm to 4-pin xlr "convertor" cable.  Really only for non speaker amp applications, maybe even "semi-portable".
 
 

 

[preproman]

Very reasonable prices.
 
http://www.btg-audio.com

 

[Chris J]

I have a few feet of that Vecteur wire hiding somewhere in the basement!