[audiohobbit]

lso, are all the HPEQ start by autoEQ/.../....? asking bc the one created after FlatEQ still have the AutoEQ at beginning of its reference name..?
So does it mean that we can not just apply only FlatEQ to start with?

When creating only a flat EQ then auto EQ and flat EQ curve will both be the same: flat. -> manual p. 77

On the other hand when you create a real auto HPEQ (with the mics in your ears) it will also automatically create a flat curve.

But as we need only a flat curve as a starting point for this manLOUD procedure I'll advise to just create a flat HPEQ by one click.

 

[Om ma Ni]

But

When creating only a flat EQ then auto EQ and flat EQ curve will both be the same: flat. -> manual p. 77

On the other hand when you create a real auto HPEQ (with the mics in your ears) it will also automatically create a flat curve.

But as we need only a flat curve as a starting point for this manLOUD procedure I'll advise to just create a flat HPEQ by one click.

So i can pick up an old autoEQ file and perform a FlatEQ on it to "convert it" back to flat before the manLoudEQ procedure?
BTW, very happy with the APM89 bass instead of the SVS one..no more noticeable distortion!

 

[audiohobbit]

You don't have to convert it. (And you can't either). An autoEQ HPEQ file already contains a flatEQ. You just have to select the flat EQ part from this for Man Loud start.

BUT if you make a new manLOUD curve and select again the same file as a starting point the old manLOUD curve will be overwritten!

Since I want to have one completely separate file per manLOUD curve I recommend to create a new flat HPEQ for every manLOUD.

If you use both BBC and Surrey room with one headphone you'll need two different manLOUD curves. If you also use 2 different headphones with both rooms you'll already need 4 different manLOUD curves.

And as I already said it is best if you do the manLOUD procedure for all of the 3 possible speaker selections from the PRIR (L+R, C, L+C+R) and compare them afterwards to see which sounds best, you need 3 different files for one headphone and one room.
After you found your best sounding manLOUD curve, you can of course delete the other two.

 

[Om ma Ni]

You don't have to convert it. (And you can't either). An autoEQ HPEQ file already contains a flatEQ. You just have to select the flat EQ part from this for Man Loud start.

BUT if you make a new manLOUD curve and select again the same file as a starting point the old manLOUD curve will be overwritten!

Since I want to have one completely separate file per manLOUD curve I recommend to create a new flat HPEQ for every manLOUD.

If you use both BBC and Surrey room with one headphone you'll need two different manLOUD curves. If you also use 2 different headphones with both rooms you'll already need 4 different manLOUD curves.

And as I already said it is best if you do the manLOUD procedure for all of the 3 possible speaker selections from the PRIR (L+R, C, L+C+R) and compare them afterwards to see which sounds best, you need 3 different files for one headphone and one room.
After you found your best sounding manLOUD curve, you can of course delete the other two.

Wow .. i see...Please could you explain what do you mean by "sound best"? Is it related with the tone, texture , coloration etc of the sound of the virtual speakers but also related to the precise multidimensional separation and localisation of these same speakers? I mean, does the manLoudEQ can also improve the localisation of the virtual speakers in the room if properly done?

 

[audiohobbit]

I mean, does the manLoudEQ can also improve the localisation of the virtual speakers in the room if properly done?

Yes, especially for the center sound.
Sounds comeing from directly in front of you don't cause any interaural time delay, they arrive at both ears at the same time. So our brain already has one variable less to calculate the direction.
This leaves only the HRTF (head related transfer function), the frequency respons in your ear canal which is heavily affected by the shape of your ears, head and upper torso.
If this frequency response is wrong you could perceive sound coming from front as coming from above or too near or so.
See also the term "Blauert bands" for reference.

 

[Om ma Ni]

Yes, especially for the center sound.
Sounds comeing from directly in front of you don't cause any interaural time delay, they arrive at both ears at the same time. So our brain already has one variable less to calculate the direction.
This leaves only the HRTF (head related transfer function), the frequency respons in your ear canal which is heavily affected by the shape of your ears, head and upper torso.
If this frequency response is wrong you could perceive sound coming from front as coming from above or too near or so.
See also the term "Blauert bands" for reference.

That is very interesting...I will dig in..will perform and test the multiple manLoudEQ (L/F, C etc..)
So knowing that we need to redo manloudEQ for each different rooms, do we also need to do it for each virtual speaker configurations for the same virtual room for instance?

 

[audiohobbit]

You can only do it for 3 options of the front speakers. L+R or C or L+C+R. Those are the most important ones.
It could be that even if you only listen to stereo music (so L+R) the manLOUD HPEQ made with the C speaker could sound better.

That was the case with my in ears for example.

For my LCD2 I did only one manLOUD HPEQ with L+R and am quite happy with it for all speaker configurations. Although I haven't tried the other options, maybe they turn out to be even better?

For my in ears I also started with a manLOUD HPEQ using L+R and I was not satisfied with tonality at all and center (be it "real" or phantom) localisation.
Then I did the other two also, C only and L+C+R. Turned out that both of them are very similar and both sound better than the one made with L+R.

 

[Om ma Ni]

You can only do it for 3 options of the front speakers. L+R or C or L+C+R. Those are the most important ones.
It could be that even if you only listen to stereo music (so L+R) the manLOUD HPEQ made with the C speaker could sound better.

That was the case with my in ears for example.

For my LCD2 I did only one manLOUD HPEQ with L+R and am quite happy with it for all speaker configurations. Although I haven't tried the other options, maybe they turn out to be even better?

For my in ears I also started with a manLOUD HPEQ using L+R and I was not satisfied with tonality at all and center (be it "real" or phantom) localisation.
Then I did the other two also, C only and L+C+R. Turned out that both of them are very similar and both sound better than the one made with L+R.

Ok so i did some manLoud EQ with the L+C , C only and L+C+R, room was 7.1.4 surrey..wanted to perform them "quickly" to be able to really compare..
I must admit that it was hard in beginning for my poor ears again...but getting use slowly to all the steps so it s a very good training!
At the end from my ears, my best manLoud EQ was with the L+C+R..watching atmos movies and could really feel that the sound was more dynamic and full of body..
which is i think, a good sign that i am getting close to a decent EQ..
One thing i noticed with the manLoud EQ in my case, is that the overall sound is more dull ..like turning bit dark..
I really hope that i am on the correct way to master this maneLOUD EQ..

 

[esimms86]

Per the KS comments section, backer #105 has received a shipping address confirmation email.

 

[esimms86]

Has anybody with an A16 already converted PRIR files from the A8 dropbox to A16 format? If so, then uploading them to a shared dropbox would save a lot of us from investing in a redundant effort. It would be greatly appreciated and thanks in advance.

 

[Fox1977]

Per the KS comments section, backer #105 has received a shipping address confirmation email.

Thanks for lettings us know... getting closer to my #203...

 

[sander99]

Has anybody with an A16 already converted PRIR files from the A8 dropbox to A16 format? If so, then uploading them to a shared dropbox would save a lot of us from investing in a redundant effort. It would be greatly appreciated and thanks in advance.

Dropbox had it's limitations and everyone with permission to upload files could delete all the files by accident (eg: make a replica of the dropbox folder on your PC to work with and just delete "your" replica on the PC - since it was a replica, dropbox then deleted all the source files on dropbox as well). This was the reason that there was a folder called "__Reminder…Copy not Move" on dropbox.

Since the Smyth Realiser Exchange website is not usable at the moment, I made a copy of the dropbox folder for all of us on Google Drive as follows:

Main folder "PRIR files": https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1MWWb8KELPBbAC5WSHf82UXeV73v1O84W?usp=sharing

The main "PRIR files" folder contains:
1) a read-only folder of the A8 files (copy of dropbox as of Sept 2019)
2) a read-only folder of the A8 files similar to 1), but with converted PRIR0xxx files as PRIR2xxx files (ready for the A16)
3) a read-only A16 folder for new A16 PRIR files
4) a folder called "upload new PRIR files here" where everyone can upload files by using this link: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1O9vvj7fa-CiXVVoR0LCyRB9EFtsZMBo2?usp=sharing

@Dixter: since you converted the PRIR0xxx files to PRIR2xxx files with your A8 already, can you upload them to the upload folder 4) ? I will then move those files to the folder 2). In folder 2) I added a list of the PRIR0xxx files currently missing.

@Everyone: if you want to share your A16 PRIR files with other users, just copy it to the upload folder 4) inside a directory with your name and I will move this directory with your files to the folder 3). To be able to upload, you will need to log-in to your Google account - if you don't have one, just request one (it's free).

 

[Richter Di]

With my A16 coming hopefully Monday, could someone help where to get the right cables to connect the analog outs of the A16 to an amplifier. Nothing to fancy but with at least 2 meter length. Thank you!

 

[Eich1eeF]

With my A16 coming hopefully Monday, could someone help where to get the right cables to connect the analog outs of the A16 to an amplifier. Nothing to fancy but with at least 2 meter length. Thank you!

Any 3,5mm (1/8 inch) to Cinch cable off ebay or amazon or from your favorite HiFi dealer or electronics store should do, assuming your Amplifier has Cinch inputs, which should apply to > 99% of all consumer products. Those cables are commonly used to connect computer sound cards or mobile audio devices to active speakers or (pre-)amplifiers.

If you're going with long cables to get 5.1 or more channels hooked up at the same time, labeling the plugs or possibly even better, getting the correct color coding for surround channels (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surround_sound#Channel_identification) might be a beneficial. I'll probably borrow the cable label printer from my office to make a few labels for my cables, but I've got no Idea how to quickly, easily and cheaply get the color coding right.

 

[Om ma Ni]

Just wondering something atm..does the A16 can extrapolate a genuine atmos signal from 7.1.4 to 9.1.6 or +?
Bc most of the atmos movies are in 7.1.4 in general...played some movies set in 7.1.4 with my A16 set to 9.1.6 room but the extra virtual speakers didn t play any signal or sound so far..?