Separate names with a comma.
I see =) All in good time, then.
Does anyone uses the clock connection on the back and for which purpose?
Posting this here because I can't find a relevant thread for pci / pcie clockers. I had owned the Su-1, liked it.
Moved on to Eitr, it was better than the stock SU-1 I owned (I assume the people that turbo modded the SU-1 makes it better than Eitr).
Anyway to the point, I had a Lynx AES16e in my parts bin for over a year collecting dust. Reason being is I don't listen to music on my desktop PC. Naturally this is where one would install such a card, because that it has a PCIe interface. Well, I decided to buy an external Thunderbolt -> PCIe enclosure to make it similar to a plug-n-play DDC, such as SU-1 and Eitr.
I have to say, the difference is significant, much more than I had remembered when I bought it for testing on my desktop.
All this testing was done on my Yggdrasil. If Schiit USB (gen3) is 3/10, SU-1 was 5/10, Eitr (USB gen5) was 7/10, the Lynx AES16e is 10/10. (10/10 because it's the best I've personally heard, not stating it's the best clocker in existence)
It's an investment. If you're lucky you can find one used for around $500 + the enclosure and cables totals up to around $800. More expensive than newer products such as the SU-6. (no idea how this would compare to the SU-6)
If you want a bit more details than the superficial; the AES16e has more resolution, instrument separation, better timbre, blacker background than the mentioned DDCs above.
You can also find cheaper PCI(e) interfaces from brands such as RME, that supposedly sound just as good as the Lynx (I can't personally verify that).
If anybodies curious you can read more about PCI / PCIe clockers by googling "Lynx PCIe AES interfaces: AES16 and E22"
I plan to grab a JCAT FEMTO USB card, and install it in my OWC Mercury Helios 3 Thunderbolt 3 enclosure. I will be powering the enclosure, the JCAT card, and my new SU-6 with an HDPLEX linear power supply. Perhaps one day I'll replace the switch mode power supply in my 2018 Mac Mini with a linear one, if such a thing becomes available.
@Baten Thus far, I'm finding the SU-6 to be a big step up from the Amanero combo 384 in my R-28 – but then, perhaps that's not saying all that much, as that card isn't considered to be anywhere near the top of the heap. I just know that I'm getting more obvious clarity, transparency, and detail. The SU-6 certainly wasn't cheap, but I am otherwise completely blown away by how good this system sounds for the money (R-28 > Pair of Precision 3S [with MUSES 8920] > KEF Reference 102/2 [paid $150; have fancy new custom speakers with Scan Speak drivers coming in soon]).
Adding a external linear power supply to the SU-1 drastically improves the sound. If you tried it with one, you might like it over you Lynx.
You can buy the kit here, very easy to install.
Ghentaudio sells ones with better cables as well
Then just buy a solid LPS like the Uptone LPS-1, which sell for a little over $300 used.
Thanks for the comments, especially concerning the SU-6 which is a very expensive piece to consider for an at-home trial..
As a point of reference, in my system the Audio-GD Isolated Amanero card (a R1 with the USB Isolation and TCXO upgrades) is very very close to a modded SU-1 via i2s (LPS1 followed by separate LT3045 1.5A regulator box). So if your R-28 had the Isolated Amanero - it would seem the SU-6 is possibly a significant step up compared to a modified SU-1 (as it well should be considering the price difference)
What I always thought is that the SU-1, especially with the stock PS, was somewhat grainy and bright.. Modding with an LPS helps this a lot.
The Gustard U16 by comparison is almost tube-sounding but with even more micro details than the modded SU-1.. very nice.. unfortunately, in my case and others, the U16 firmware/drivers are buggy especially for i2s to the point of limited usability.
So, I was wondering if the SU-6 now also has a more refined tube-like presentation, or continues down the path towards the brighter side of the spectrum.
Hi guys. I received my used SU-1 with sparkos regulator + power capacitor upgrade.
Love it so far. Sounds very good =D I want to upgrade to external 5V. I see two kits for this:
do you guys reckon there is an audible difference between the different options? the kitsune is cheapest
I already have an iFi iPurifier v2 for the 5V DC input
Go for Ghentaudio! They are of extreme quality. They have various options for quality too. If money is no problem go for the best one.
if you can wait for shipping from china, I think the ghent is nicer.. thicker conductor and better twisted geometry
Hmm I was gonna go for the OCC second option now you have me wondering. The third option is pretty steep. Hmmm
Edit: well I bought the Canare 4S6G(OFC) Star Quad. For such a short cable I don't think the Gotham one can possibly be that much better. $80+ for a dc connect is too much for me lol.
I've had the SU-1 for about 1½ year as a USB->AES interface between my Squeezebox Touch player (w. EDO) and my totaldac. It's been running quite smoothly. Then I swapped the internal psu for an LPS-1.2 with very good results in SQ.
Then suddenly a couple of weeks ago the SU-1 wasn't playing. The blue 'power' LED was still on but no blue 'play' LED. The SBT digital out info said the SU-1 had stopped running and there was no signal input at the dac AES end. I power cycled both the SU-1 and the SBT some 3 or 4 times, selecting different digital outputs of the SBT trying to force SU-1 to start running again, switched the USB cable and I even tried another SBT as source but all to no effect.
Then I thought I might need to reinstall the SU-1 firmware via my Windows laptop, so I installed the SU-1 USB class 2 driver v. 4.45.0 and connected the SU-1 (now powered by the onboard psu still in place in the chassis) to my laptop. Before installing the firmware I just wanted to check if the SU-1 would work with my laptop and Foobar. It did! Music was playing through my totaldac.
So I switched back to my SBT as the source and with the SU-1 powered by the LPS-1.2. Now everything was working just fine!
Can anybody come up with a logical explanation to what's going on here? It doesn't make sense to me.
I should mention that I do not have the isolator/separate PSU with my Amanero card. I actually was originally going to get the F-1 installed with the isolator, but Kingwa said that I would not be able to upgrade the firmware on my F-28 through the F-1. I'm not sure whether or not he gave an explanation as to why, or if I have forgotten the reasoning, but I figured I'd regret not having the option if I later read people going bananas over how awesome a possible, eventual V4 firmware could turn out to be.
The SU-6 is indeed a pricey piece to buy sort of blindly on a whim. I sort of rolled the dice on it, but I'm happy with it. It may be overkill for my current setup, but I plan to eventually pick up an R-7 (and other flagship Audio-gd downstream gear), so I didn't want to mess around too much with intermediary components.
I wish I could comment on whether it leans more toward the bright and analytical side of things, or whether it makes for a more smooth and refined listen – at least compared with the SU-1 – but I've just had too many component changes happening recently. It seems to be or feels like it's fairly balanced in that regard. The window into the music has definitely been squeegeed, and there's added refinement... but I wouldn't say it sounds more tube-like. Perhaps there's a touch of a slightly tube-ish sound that's more on the neutral side, like some Reflektors or Sylvanias I've heard.
Not sure if that helps one iota or not. Happy listenin'!
I wonder if turning the unit off and back on is what did the trick.
I remember the first time I plugged in my brand new Spring DAC at the time connected it to a Matrix X-SPDIF, it was dry and in the middle of winter, and I touched the power button on the front panel of the DAC, and gave it a massive static electric shock. No music played and I was like, OMG what have I done?! Tried various things but a power cycle to both devices is what fixed it for me.
Thanks, but no that didn't help. Like I said: 'I power cycled both the SU-1 and the SBT some 3 or 4 times..... to no effect.'
It wasn't until I connected the SU-1 to my laptop that the blue 'play' LED came on. The Windows PC somehow sent a USB handshake that got the Singxer going.
Ah okay sry my bad.