[Matias]

That's right, simple as that.
I ordered a unit from Wang too. Let's hear.

 

[AudioPhewl]

Quote:

Originally Posted by matrix200 /img/forum/go_quote.gif I understand it is a matter of pulling the old opamp and putting the new one right?

It's as simple as pulling gently with a pair of pliers, and gently pushing a new one home. All you have to do is get the notch/circle the right way up, and take care not to bend any pins.

~Phewl.

 

[matrix200]

Thanks for the replys guys.
One question , how do I determine the right direction?
Take a look on the curent layout
http://i38.tinypic.com/11rstba.jpg
So the new one should be oriented in the same direction right?

 

[AudioPhewl]

Correct, with the indentation marks toward the two white relays, or the back of the DAC.

It's a simple swap, you'll find it easy.

~Phewl.

 

[matrix200]

So I am lucky for getting the simple version because now I will have both

I wonder what kind of difference in the sound , it is going to make

 

[Penchum]

Quote:

Originally Posted by AudioPhewl /img/forum/go_quote.gif So are we now thinking that he spoke with Oya on the 28th? Yet you pheel(spot the pun confident that he'll take care of my problems, despite me hearing nothing since 3am on 25th? I do wonder how confident you'd be if it were your money, or your unit which was faulty. His behaviour toward me is, quite frankly, bloody lousy at the moment. ~Phewl.

AP,

I was just showing you the last post I could find, that had some kind of news about what was going on over there.

Back when I ordered my second Zero, he was backlogged almost a month and a half, due to the Holidays and the power supply upgrade bit, so myself and many others waited for quite a while, before hearing status from him. So, I do understand how you feel.

I have no idea what is happening over there, except for what OYA posted, so I have to go with that, until we hear something newer.

If communication between the two of you, has become one sided, then I would suggest a different course of action. Confrontation is not something buyers or sellers like to see, so if you think he's not answering your emails, because he perceives your emails as being confrontational, then it is probably time to sit down and write a level headed request for his assistance in clearing up any misunderstandings between him and you, and to request his assistance with getting your order straight. You never know, he might of felt dissed or something like that. Its not just a possible language translation problem, but a possible perception problem as well.

I do know he is a hard working man just like everyone else; he has a family; he puts his pants on the same way, etc... The only difference, is that he is trying to cater to buyers worldwide, which has it's extra challenges too. He needs respect just like you and me, and he wants to help out members of HeadFi.org, not just to make money, but to provide quality audio at a super nice price. He came up with this "HeadFi Deal" all on his own, to help out his fellow audiophiles here at HeadFi. He is one of us at heart!

I'm sorry if my suggestion might not sit well with you. I give it with only the best of intentions. It is the only way I know of that could possibly resolve any issues, if that in fact, is what's going on. Communication is just too important to let slide, when monies and audio goods hang in the balance.

Have a good/cold one!

 

[AudioPhewl]

Sorry Penchum if I came across like a bit of an a'hole. I'm in the middle of a blazing row with my manic-depressive sister via SMS.

I'm not in the greatest of moods right now.

Just wish "Lawrence" would get in touch about it, it's doing my head in now.

~Phewl.

 

[ianp]

My 0:02 on your questions.

Quote:

Originally Posted by loonywan /img/forum/go_quote.gif 1. The RCA is the only output in the pre-amp role. You have to replace + upgrade it. However, what are good sockets ?

Lukasz recommends using new RCA sockets. Probably because it makes installation a bit easier and you have control over the parts. His site and documents do state that he doesn't recommend using fancy parts, rather "good" parts.

Quote:

2. Judging from the 3rd pic on the Lampization mod page, the shaded area where one of the legs of the caps land is the MINUS. It doesn't really matter which way you look at the caps (left to right or right to left), just make sure the caps chosen are ALTERNATE.

This page indicates usage of caps 1 & or 2 &4

Quote:

3. Wire MINUS leg to the RCA Signal Pin. Question is , which is the LEFT and RIGHT channel ?

I'd assume based on position looking towards the back of the unit

Maybe, try tracing the tracks on the PCB or just install it one way and be prepared to switch round later.

Quote:

4. Question is , wire to which GROUND on the pcb?

Any suitable ground.

Quote:

1. The "treble killing brown 220p caps" are to be removed. Or should they be upgraded instead ?

I just removed them. An easy task after popping off the top with no need to remove the PCB if your aim is straight with a small pair of cutters.

Quote:

2. "tantalum caps are ... added in parallel to the electrolytes which power up the DAC and the receiver" Whoa... this kinda means we'll have to remove board and add to the underside ?

If you wish to do that mod, yes, unless you can mount on top. Removing the PCB is straight forward however.

Quote:

3. "four critical caps to be upgraded - power to the DAC and receiver." Any good recommendations for what kind of caps be good ?

Lukasz recommends SANYO OS-CON, but really any good capacitor manufacturer of your choice.

 

[AudioPhewl]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ianp /img/forum/go_quote.gif I just removed them. An easy task after popping off the top with need to remove the PCB if your aim is straight with a small pair of cutters.

Are these capacitors in the signal path, or do they tie it to ground? If the signal passes through them, then removing them would terminate the audio signal(if they weren't bridged).

Just curious.

~Phewl.

 

[ianp]

Quote:

Originally Posted by AudioPhewl /img/forum/go_quote.gif Are these capacitors in the signal path, or do they tie it to ground? If the signal passes through them, then removing them would terminate the audio signal(if they weren't bridged). Just curious. ~Phewl.

To ground and the audio signal continues just fine after the snipping. Here's the image from the lampizater site and it is referenced on the Snip It - modifications for the begginers page also.

 

[AudioPhewl]

Cheers for clarifying, Ianp

.

~Phewl.

 

[indianbraker]

man i cant get over how great this unit sounds for the money i paid lol

 

[ianp]

Quote:

Originally Posted by indianbraker /img/forum/go_quote.gif man i cant get over how great this unit sounds for the money i paid lol

That's why we have 480+ pages in this thread and it's still growing !

 

[Enthusia]

Which SANYO OS-CON do we buy? I am not sure how many UF's and Volts. Also would the solid os-cons work too or just the regular ones?

 

[colliedoggy]

Just behind the RCA sockets and connected to the 22pF ceramic capacitors there are an additional two 100kOhm resistors connected from each output to ground. Why are they necessary. Couldn't they be removed too?
Thanks