Originally Posted by PyrotekNX /img/forum/go_quote.gif I bought from the seller wsz0304 on eBay.
It appears it was made in a sweatshop using unskilled labor. I am going to try to reflow all the solder joints on the boards to see if there is improvement. Many of the components are obviously not soldered in correctly. I hope this solves the issue.
so i got my vol pot from lawrence today... came without the knob.,. so i guess i could use the stock one but there will be a big gap as it extends farther. anyway I could modify it to fit?
also im not to keen on desoldering.. I have desoldering braid, how would I go about desoldering the old pot?
I've been using the Zero for quite some time now and I'm really pleased with it and a couple of days ago I got some OPamps for it fresh from Lawrence.
It's 1364's for the Headamp and a Hdam-module for the Dac.
Here's the problem:
The Hdam-Module is getting REALLY hot, when I used it I had it beneath the Vents in the chassi for the best possible cooling without any major modifications.
This however isn't enough, the module was burning hot when I removed it and you can actually feel the smell of "Hot-Electronic-Components"
.
It was connected to ground through a PCB-screw at first, but then the right channel was dead. (I guess it's because I don't have ground in any power-outputs in this room.) So I removed the ground and that problem was solved.
Is my Hdam a "Monday-specimen"? is the lack of ground making it overheat?
I'm pretty clueless of what to do, any help is very appreciated.
Thank you guys for a wonderful and amusing thread.
Originally Posted by Currawong /img/forum/go_quote.gif Gav, that doesn't sound like Andrea...but anyway...
At first I thought the Sun sounded better, but after burn-in, I now prefer the more neutral Earth. With my D5000's directly out of the Zero's HP jack, the Sun is a bit too bright and sibilant. The Sun reminds me a bit of the 4562's we tried out a while back - it's like someone hit the loudness button.
Oh it's him alright.....don't feed the troll folks...ignore is the best route to follow until ban and deletion takes place. The info he is providing is useless and most likely BS....so...does anyone mind telling me what this supposed advice has to do with the Zero ? Nothing ? Yep...useless.
I agree with your observations about the two types of modules, one is clearly colored and the other is not. I find the voicing on the SUN module to be bordering on cartoonish in nature. It's way to tipped up...a subtle shading would have been far more useful IMHO. I will explore an attempt to re voice this HDAM if possible in the near future. How that might be accomplished is open for debate...so any ideas you guys can come up with will be welcome.
Originally Posted by Scanberg /img/forum/go_quote.gif Hey guys,
I've been using the Zero for quite some time now and I'm really pleased with it and a couple of days ago I got some OPamps for it fresh from Lawrence.
It's 1364's for the Headamp and a Hdam-module for the Dac.
Here's the problem:
The Hdam-Module is getting REALLY hot, when I used it I had it beneath the Vents in the chassi for the best possible cooling without any major modifications.
This however isn't enough, the module was burning hot when I removed it and you can actually feel the smell of "Hot-Electronic-Components"
.
It was connected to ground through a PCB-screw at first, but then the right channel was dead. (I guess it's because I don't have ground in any power-outputs in this room.) So I removed the ground and that problem was solved.
Is my Hdam a "Monday-specimen"? is the lack of ground making it overheat?
I'm pretty clueless of what to do, any help is very appreciated.
Thank you guys for a wonderful and amusing thread.
That's unusual. Mine gets warm, nothing more. Is the Zero on top of another hot device...or in an enclosed area with little airflow ? Is the HDAM correctly installed in the socket (as in crescent facing the rear plate ?) Do not place the module at the opening of the grill on the top...all the heat from the entire unit flows out through that opening so in essence your heating the HDAM up rather than cooling it down. Keep it away from that spot.
Report back your findings. Leave the lid off for a while to see what temp the HDAM gets to. It should only be slightly warm to the touch. Keep it away from the voltage regulators (the devices with the vertical heat sinks), they produce 80% of the heat inside the Zero.
Originally Posted by Scanberg /img/forum/go_quote.gif Hey guys,
I've been using the Zero for quite some time now and I'm really pleased with it and a couple of days ago I got some OPamps for it fresh from Lawrence.
It's 1364's for the Headamp and a Hdam-module for the Dac.
Here's the problem:
The Hdam-Module is getting REALLY hot, when I used it I had it beneath the Vents in the chassi for the best possible cooling without any major modifications.
This however isn't enough, the module was burning hot when I removed it and you can actually feel the smell of "Hot-Electronic-Components"
.
It was connected to ground through a PCB-screw at first, but then the right channel was dead. (I guess it's because I don't have ground in any power-outputs in this room.) So I removed the ground and that problem was solved.
Is my Hdam a "Monday-specimen"? is the lack of ground making it overheat?
I'm pretty clueless of what to do, any help is very appreciated.
Thank you guys for a wonderful and amusing thread.
On top of what PP replied, Do you have the HDAM wrapped in something to keep it safe (electrically isolated) from other electronic goodies??
For all of those people getting the "Really Hot Case Problems and Possibly With The Side Effect of I Can't Get My Hand on the Zero Longer Then 10 Seconds" switch your HDAM. You probably put them in the wrong way when inserting one.
Do that right now. Don't leave them cooking that way or it'd gonna damage your HDAM and screw up the components the way my Sun got damaged.
Originally Posted by PyrotekNX /img/forum/go_quote.gif I bought from the seller wsz0304 on eBay.
It appears it was made in a sweatshop using unskilled labor. I am going to try to reflow all the solder joints on the boards to see if there is improvement. Many of the components are obviously not soldered in correctly. I hope this solves the issue.
If this is so, it represents something new to watch out for. Generally, most of the Zero's have the normal "assembly line" look to them, with soldering joints all looking about the same, and nothing too special or worrisome either. The occasional re-solder on one or two spots, to fix a QC problem, but that is about all. Please post pics if you can. Thanks!!
Originally Posted by Doorknob /img/forum/go_quote.gif For all of those people getting the "Really Hot Case Problems and Possibly With The Side Effect of I Can't Get My Hand on the Zero Longer Then 10 Seconds" switch your HDAM. You probably put them in the wrong way when inserting one.
Do that right now. Don't leave them cooking that way or it'd gonna damage your HDAM and screw up the components the way my Sun got damaged.
I want to add to this for everyone. You MUST match up the "keyway" when plugging in an Opamp or HDAM. There is a half circle shape cut into the socket on the board, and one on the male socket wired to the HDAM. Match those half circles up!!! They usually point to the rear of the unit.
Originally Posted by Penchum /img/forum/go_quote.gif On top of what PP replied, Do you have the HDAM wrapped in something to keep it safe (electrically isolated) from other electronic goodies??
Ty for your quick replies PP & Penchum;
I'm currently using the module straight in the socket without any extension-cables and without any lid but the result is still the same, it gets too hot.
The room is about 22 Degrees Celcius and pretty spacy so there should be sufficient cooling.
I've double checked the direction of the marker and the "cresent" is facing the same direction as the one in the socket, meaning towards the backplate.
Do I dare to turn the module 180 degrees?
/Update
I took a look at the extension-cable and noticed that the left row of pins was connected to the right row and vice versa,
This is probably the cause of the problem and might have damaged the whole module I guess...
Originally Posted by Scanberg /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Do I dare to turn the module 180 degrees?
MMM... unless it is SOUNDING bad I wouldn't risk that - although I'm certainly no expert. Maybe you've already mentioned this but is it considerably hotter than the opamps - like too hot to touch? My Sun runs a little warmer than the opamps did but certainly nothing to worry about. My Little Dot runs hotter. I put a fan next to them both and heat is no longer an issue at all.
Originally Posted by Penchum /img/forum/go_quote.gif If this is so, it represents something new to watch out for. Generally, most of the Zero's have the normal "assembly line" look to them, with soldering joints all looking about the same, and nothing too special or worrisome either. The occasional re-solder on one or two spots, to fix a QC problem, but that is about all. Please post pics if you can. Thanks!!
I would post pics, but there isn't much to see. With visual inspection, it looks normal. Some components feel loose and there are definitely some cold solder joints. The boards look hand built in the way that every component isn't lined up exactly like they would be if it was computer built. There definitely is a kit like look to it. I am reflowing the solder joints now; I will keep everyone posted.
Originally Posted by Scanberg /img/forum/go_quote.gif Ty for your quick replies PP & Penchum;
I'm currently using the module straight in the socket without any extension-cables and without any lid but the result is still the same, it gets too hot.
The room is about 22 Degrees Celcius and pretty spacy so there should be sufficient cooling.
I've double checked the direction of the marker and the "cresent" is facing the same direction as the one in the socket, meaning towards the backplate.
Do I dare to turn the module 180 degrees?
/Update
I took a look at the extension-cable and noticed that the left row of pins was connected to the right row and vice versa,
This is probably the cause of the problem and might have damaged the whole module I guess...
Ow my! That is crazy! I would contact them immediately by email and enclose a pic of it. They should send you a replacement and a new cable right away!
Update: TOSLINK connector was definitely broken. 2 pins were snapped off. When I replace the TOSLINK, I will have to be sure to hotglue it to the board so it won't move. Problem appears to be in the amplifier board, not sure where though. It seems like the right channel is completely blown. I am getting a noise that sounds kind of like brown noise or pink noise. When I turn the amp on, I get a loud pop out of that channel. I tried swapping opamps, both seem to be fine. If I could narrow this down to a single component, I might be able to fix it. Otherwise, this is a bit out of my league.
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