Review: ZERO 24 BIT/192KHz DAC/Headphone Amp/Pre-Amp
Sep 13, 2008 at 6:45 PM Post #6,511 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by ScottieB /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Look for AudioPhewl's posts - he has the links in his sig. You shouldn't have to go back far - he's here a lot
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Glad I serve some sort of purpose
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.

~Phewl.
 
Sep 13, 2008 at 8:17 PM Post #6,513 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by DCT /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I want to change the RCA Jack on the Zero. How do you do it guys?


I simply drilled two holes in the back cover and added 2 new RCA jacks. You can then steal the signal from the current jacks.
 
Sep 14, 2008 at 12:44 AM Post #6,514 of 9,388
I'm loving my zero dac so far. I'm very interested in opamp rolling but I have never done this before. Is it recommended for a complete newbie to try the opamp? Was thinking about getting opa-earth for the dac and the LT1364 for the headphone amp although don't really use it is as an amp very much.

I checked the LT website and there were lots of LT1364 models. No idea which one I should get, and what are samples? Free?
 
Sep 14, 2008 at 1:22 AM Post #6,516 of 9,388
Hi guys

Sorry I haven't been around the last 48 hours...I'm pretty ill at the moment. Hopefully things will be better in another 48 - 72 hours..or sooner.

The cap pak'd Earth modules sound really good...although they need at least another solid week of cooking before passing judgment...I'm still waiting on the PIO cap order ...so no worries about the kits....

Peete.
 
Sep 14, 2008 at 1:25 AM Post #6,517 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by bundee1 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Im up to page 50 of this thread so I have to catch up but who is currently the best ebay seller for the Zero amp in terms of reliability, build quality, speed of service and price? Is there a concensus? Thanks!


I bought mine from wsz0304, I think he still has 100% feedback these days. His price is something like $128 USD + $40 USD shipping for his upgraded version, which does NOT include an ALPS pot, but does include a OPA627 installed in the DAC section, and also a breakout box to get digital out from USB
 
Sep 14, 2008 at 6:21 AM Post #6,518 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by PlasticChicken /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I'm loving my zero dac so far. I'm very interested in opamp rolling but I have never done this before. Is it recommended for a complete newbie to try the opamp? Was thinking about getting opa-earth for the dac and the LT1364 for the headphone amp although don't really use it is as an amp very much.

I checked the LT website and there were lots of LT1364 models. No idea which one I should get, and what are samples? Free?



You need to get these ones LT1364CN8#PBF

also go here
http://www.national.com/pf/LM/LM4562.html

and get the LM4562NA, give em a try to0, i am using them for now after trying the LT1364, and seem to be enjoying them.
 
Sep 14, 2008 at 11:32 AM Post #6,519 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by sunripe /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Forgot to mention that I have tweaked my Sun modules with a total of 4 WIMA film caps, .22uF 63V. Great little tweak, cost-effective and simple.

Also the caps are small.
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You don't know when to quit do you Andrea ..
 
Sep 14, 2008 at 12:08 PM Post #6,520 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by sunripe /img/forum/go_quote.gif
The WIMA caps are mounted just like you see on the latest modules coming from audio-gd. Therefore, each of them goes from the +/- power rail to GND.

I've used 4 of them because my Sun modules are singles.


Another thing I've noticed is that the Sun produces less heat than the Earth...


My SVDAC05 is high-end now.
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Better take your medication , your hearing is going off again ..
atsmile.gif


Pretty sure you'll be deleted tomorrow so enjoy your rant till then ...
 
Sep 14, 2008 at 12:19 PM Post #6,521 of 9,388
Gav, that doesn't sound like Andrea...but anyway...

At first I thought the Sun sounded better, but after burn-in, I now prefer the more neutral Earth. With my D5000's directly out of the Zero's HP jack, the Sun is a bit too bright and sibilant. The Sun reminds me a bit of the 4562's we tried out a while back - it's like someone hit the loudness button.
 
Sep 14, 2008 at 2:09 PM Post #6,522 of 9,388
Andrea you are sick or you have problems, there is no other solution, is impossible to ban is mac address or similar?
I have never seen on all internet people so stubbornly stupid and with the only interest to brake balls.
 
Sep 14, 2008 at 2:47 PM Post #6,523 of 9,388
I have been lurking the head-fi forums for about 4 years now, and this is my first post. I recently purchased a Zero, and mine is a dud. It sounded great on my HD-595s, but then it started to have issues after about an hour of use. The right channel began to cut out and it had a lot of static.

I decided to open it up and I discovered just how bad the build quality was. It looks assembled from a kit and the screws are in the wrong locations. The builder obviously did not know the difference between a sheetmetal screw and a machine screw. I found one of the rectifiers on the D/A board was loose and rocked back ad forth when I touched it. When I was testing the amplifier board, the right channel indicator led flickered and I heard static out of the right channel when I changed the volume. I also managed to damage the TOSLINK receiver during bench testing because it was not properly soldered to the board. I'm not sure if the actual connector is broken, or if I can reflow the solder. Does anyone know what could be causing the issue with the blown right channel?
 
Sep 14, 2008 at 3:19 PM Post #6,525 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by Olev /img/forum/go_quote.gif
May I ask who you ordered yours from? I've red this thread for quite a while now and lately people seem to have problems with new Zeros.


I bought from the seller wsz0304 on eBay.


It appears it was made in a sweatshop using unskilled labor. I am going to try to reflow all the solder joints on the boards to see if there is improvement. Many of the components are obviously not soldered in correctly. I hope this solves the issue.
 

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