post your grado mods....

[edgarlim1999]

No problem, I got the info about removing the drivers from others in the Grado appreciation thread, glad I could pass the info on to you.  I would love to see the pictures of the before and after.
PS: you might need to have a few more posts before the site will allow you to post pictures, 25 post?  or you can use a link to photo sharing site.

Hi David,

If you have the info, I would be glad to take that and pass it to the Grado Modder. This would make life easier for him if he intends to do the hardwire version.

As for the posting of the photo, I will just use a photo sharing site of my own .

Edgar

 

[DavidA]

Hi David,

If you have the info, I would be glad to take that and pass it to the Grado Modder. This would make life easier for him if he intends to do the hardwire version.

As for the posting of the photo, I will just use a photo sharing site of my own .

Edgar

 
Hi Edgar,
I meant to say I got the info on using the thin craft blades from the Grado appreciation thread, and the alternative is to use surgical scalpels.
 
You should consider the use a connector to make the cable detachable since you are going thru the process of removing the drivers or don't use wood glue but something easier to remove incase you need to remove the drivers again.  For the headphones that I've built the drivers are press fit and if the fit is loose I've been using some wood filler to get a better fit.

 

[edgarlim1999]

Hi all,

This is kinda unexpected but my cables came early so this is my thoughts about it.

I got my headphones at Jaben a few weeks back and I was really happy with what I brought. However, one thing always bothered me and that is the cables. It is thick and way to heavy for me and the weight of the cables hurts my neck after about 30 minutes. So I started researching.

I found a person named Justin (photos and the product is credited to him) who is a fellow music enthusiast who happens likes to make custom cables. We hooked up and proceeded to find out way to solve the unwieldy cable. I asked him whether if it is possible to do a hardwire of the Grado RS2e but sadly, it is not possible as Grado Labs uses wood glue on their wood cups and this prevents him to doing any sort of modifications inside the cups. So we pondered until he told me that using a dongle mechanism (3.5mm) would work. And so I agreed.

We settled on Silver cables (twisted shrink tube, paracord braiding) and 1.5m in length for the custom cable.

He proceeded to did the cable work which was completed in about 3 hours! It turned out really good as the cable was sturdy enough for daily use and short enough for portable usage with my Paw 5000. The soundstage was increased, the bass started to have the "thump" and became clear sounding.

My cable turned from a noose to a beautiful work of art that sounds good! I can't thank Justin enough for his hard work and dedication into making the cable for my Grado.

The pictures of the work are attached for your enjoyment! Thank you for your time.

Edgar


Before braiding


After braiding


With shrink tubing


Completed product


Plugged to the Grado RS2e

 

[DavidA]

@edgarlim1999, i take it the person didn't want to spend the time to remove the drivers, I don't blame him, it was a PITA and why I haven't done mine yet but also because I hardly use my RS2e these days after building a Ypsilon R1 and Nhoord v2.

 

[gazmono]

 I have a second hand SR325I that I just got off e-bay. I want to replace the dreadful grado cable so came on here to look for a method to remove the drivers from the aluminium cups. There is a ton of info on removing the plastic ones on the sr60's etc, indeed I did it myself ages ago. When I tried the usual method it didn't feel like it was working and indeed a split appeared in the plastic insert. After a lot of trawling through these pages I found one post that claimed the hair-dryer trick with twisting and prying did inded work with the ali cans. Maybe I didn't have enough patience before? So I tried again and it simply does not work. I  heated the ali cups up to a very toasty level with a digital heat gun but no amount of twisting or prising did anything but cause the plastic inserts to start splitting apart. The ali cups adhesion to the plastic inserts was as solid as concrete. Any ideas?

 

[retox]

gasmono
 
I have successfully split several pairs of 325 by using a shallow baking dish with water at a level as not to touch the drivers when inserted.  The driver obviously is pointing up.
I bring no more than 3/4" of water to a boil in the microwave and place on the counter.  Then I carefully place both cups into the water.  Wait about 30 to 45 seconds and try to pull the driver from the cup. Make sure you keep the driver pointing up so no water gets on it.  If it does get wet just dry it off and wait until its completely dry prior to use.
You should have two wash cloths handy to use to hold the cup and driver as you pull apart, they are really hot.   If the glue is the standard glue used by Grado the cup will separate.  It takes some force, but it has work every time. I like it much better than the hair dryer method. Careful not to burn yourself, that is why I use the wash cloths to hold the cups while pulling/twisting the cups apart.
 
Good Luck
 
 

 

[gazmono]

I love you! It worked like a dream. Shouldn't this be a sticky or something? This is invaluable knowledge. Thanks again, it was getting me down.

 

[DavidA]

  I love you! It worked like a dream. Shouldn't this be a sticky or something? This is invaluable knowledge. Thanks again, it was getting me down.

The hair dryer method is a problem since when you heat up one side the other side gets cool, the hot water method heats up the entire cup at once.   Now if only someone can find a way to get the drivers out of a wood cup like my RS2e easier than spending a few hours with a craft blade

 

[edgarlim1999]

@edgarlim1999
, i take it the person didn't want to spend the time to remove the drivers, I don't blame him, it was a PITA and why I haven't done mine yet but also because I hardly use my RS2e these days after building a Ypsilon R1 and Nhoord v2.

Hi David,

I just didn't want to risk my headphones.

Edgar

 

[retox]

BTW, I am not the originator of this method.  Found it on the web, so it must be true.

 

[Arvan]

SR60E with Koss porta pro drivers and all "blacked" out. Sounds pretty good!
 

 

[retox]

Very nice look, I like the blacked out cups.

 

[retox]

To "Y" or not to "Y" that is the question...
 
So I just finished a pair of headphones, Popular Cups, and Magnum V7 drivers.
So I decided to go with a single detachable cable using three strands of 30 AWG silver coated copper wire in paracord. Mini jack on headphone cup end, and mini jack with 1/4" threaded adpater on the other. I threaded the cable from the right cup to the left through the headband using the same wire and paracord as I used with the cable.
The look is very acceptable, (I would post pictures, but I am not allowed since I sell stuff) anyhow I was wondering what the community take on this method of cable versus the Y cable configuration with a split at say 16 to 18 inches from the cups.
 
Any response would be welcome, and pictures if so inclined.
 
Thanks
 
-retox 

 

[DavidA]

 
 
 
Quote:

  To "Y" or not to "Y" that is the question...
 
So I just finished a pair of headphones, Popular Cups, and Magnum V7 drivers.
So I decided to go with a single detachable cable using three strands of 30 AWG silver coated copper wire in paracord. Mini jack on headphone cup end, and mini jack with 1/4" threaded adpater on the other. I threaded the cable from the right cup to the left through the headband using the same wire and paracord as I used with the cable.
The look is very acceptable, (I would post pictures, but I am not allowed since I sell stuff) anyhow I was wondering what the community take on this method of cable versus the Y cable configuration with a split at say 16 to 18 inches from the cups.
 
Any response would be welcome, and pictures if so inclined.
 
Thanks
 
-retox 

I've always liked the "Y" since it balances the headphone on the head.  Only issue with the "Y" is finding a good/nice looking splitter.
 
Have been using one from Double-Helix but they had a smaller one for a great price a few years ago.  Also, I like having removable cables so its easier to work with wires to both cups.
 
Some pictures:

 

[retox]

  I've always liked the "Y" since it balances the headphone on the head.  Only issue with the "Y" is finding a good/nice looking splitter.
 
Have been using one from Double-Helix but they had a smaller one for a great price a few years ago.  Also, I like having removable cables so its easier to work with wires to both cups.
 
Some pictures:

I really like the SMA/SMB connectors, where did you get those, both the male and female?
Very nice looking headphones...thanks for the picts.