[wje]

Quote:

I think the cans got heavy enough

Wow, I like the cut aluminum cups.  However, I can see where depth was added for the chamber making them a deeper cup.  Are they quite heavy?  They look nice, though.
 

 

[Mochan]

"Wireless Grado"

This is my "GS Ultra" with "no wires." Well not really. It has wires but I don't have to worry about unwieldy cables going down my head to my pant pockets or anything.
 

 
 
It's basically just a single-sided Grado with a detachable cable. this way I can cable roll to my heart's content.
 
Here I have it with a Cardas cable:
 

 
I also have a Mundorf cable for it, and if the cable is short enough I can clip my DAP to the velcro on the headband for "wireless" operation. I also have a Beats cable with Control Talk in case I want to use it with an iPhone or something, haha.

 

[tamu]

Quote:

Wow, I like the cut aluminum cups.  However, I can see where depth was added for the chamber making them a deeper cup.  Are they quite heavy?  They look nice, though.
 

They are heavier but after a while I get used to having them on.. To be honest, I used the drawings from headwize and did not have the HP with me to compare the size. If I were to make a new set, it would defo be shorter.
I think with grill they will look better. Thanks
 

 

[Nightslayer]

Quote:

"Wireless Grado"
 

 

What cups are you using, may I inquire? And more importantly, how do the Grados sound with those earpads of yours as compared to the usual foams?
 
 

 

[Mochan]

The cups were made for me by a friend, they are mahogany cups stained brown, nothing fancy. 
 
The pads I use, the details are documented somewhere else on this site,I forgot where, but for more details you can look here (they are the last entry, the BBB Perfect):
 
http://www.headphiles.org/index.php/topic,271.msg5761.html#msg5761
 
Basically these are very comfortable and bassy pads, but even though it's pleather the sound doesn't become congested like it does on a closed headphone, likely due to the openback nature of the Grados. Sound becomes concentrated with meaty mids and very tight, powerful bass. Sound is very taut but there's an enveloping sense of atmoshere and warmth. The other plus of these pads is that they have surprisingly good isolation. Sound isolation is similar now to that of the LCD2, almost but not quite like that, compared to using foam pads where I could easily hear noise around me. Still obviously an open can though, don't expect closed-can level isolation.
 
Sometimes It's hard to really describe the pads separately since I did so many damping mods and punches so many holes into the paper of the driver that I may be confusing the sound of the pads for the sound of the mods in the cups.
 
Suffice it to say that my Grado sounds like an XB700.

 

[Chris_Himself]

Quote:

I think the cans got heavy enough

I would attach viking horns to them if I could

 

[Maverickmonk]

I'm posting this here, thinking it might get some pertinent views. With the SR60 Mod thread locked and pending deletion due to heavy MOT violations, we risk losing one of the largest sources of info ever on the Grado Prestige series. I'm hoping some others are willing to help me in making some wiki articles to save some of the more important and helpful information for future reference. I will crosspost this in the "Grado Fan Club" thread.
 
Again, I don't want to debate whether it should/shouldnot have been locked, I mearly want to protect/save the information present, so the modding can continue, and the Grado jams can keep pumpin'
 
Link to locked thread:
http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/508459/sr60-mod/4995

 

[wje]

Maverickmonk,
 
I'll be glad to assist where I can.  I'm in the Eastern time zone of the U.S.  My background is in I.T.  Just let me know when and where.  Also, I think I've memorized about 50% of the information from that thread alone and, while I haven't cut any cups, I've upgraded a handful of Grados.
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

[Maverickmonk]

Just post a wiki or few on a couple of mods, and post the links to them in the overview wiki: http://www.head-fi.org/wiki/grado-modification-overview, or add some general information (differences, issues and solutions, etc) to the overview page.
 
Further discussion on the topic of the wiki can continue here: http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/561540/grado-mod-archival-project#post_7589505

 

[WhiteCrow]

 
Quote:

If you want to do it right, you need to use audiophile-grade egg beaters. These egg beaters are sonic-tuned specifically for dynamic wide-range breakfasts and also happen to work perfect for headphones. I can ship you one if you like, they are $112 + shipping 

I bet you and Todd The Vinyl Junkie would be great Friends. Seeing as you both seem to be excellent snake oil sales men hahaha.
 


Quote:

 
Finished the new cups for my ms1.. Just need some nice mesh/grill.

You "stealth" modded the wooden cups I assume?*wooden ring on the inside or dampened*
 

 

[tamu]

Quote:

You "stealth" modded the wooden cups I assume?*wooden ring on the inside or dampened*
 

just some felt. As soon as I find grills I will put felt all over inside.
 

 

[Nightslayer]

Quote:

just some felt. As soon as I find grills I will put felt all over inside.
 

I don't see much point with running an aluminium mod just to damp it with felt.. Is your driver chamber liberated?
 
 

 

[WhiteCrow]

Quote:

I don't see much point with running an aluminium mod just to damp it with felt.. Is your driver chamber liberated?
 
 

so you don't shred your ears and have the most god awful reflections in the history of headphone kind?
For reals, try some tone wood in them babys, not COMPLETELY covering it but enough to change the tune and give it resonation, dampen the driver as well for a tighter response, Something I noticed about the RS-2's is that they seem slow when un-amped. They really need a small amount of juice just to bump up the transducer speed.

 

[Nightslayer]

Quote:

so you don't shred your ears and have the most god awful reflections in the history of headphone kind?
For reals, try some tone wood in them babys, not COMPLETELY covering it but enough to change the tune and give it resonation, dampen the driver as well for a tighter response, Something I noticed about the RS-2's is that they seem slow when un-amped. They really need a small amount of juice just to bump up the transducer speed.

If you wanted the aluminium for solely aesthetic purposes I believe its possible to do an outer mod with wooden inners or something.. I've seen a few around. His shells look like a prime candidate for HF2-imitating to see how the sound turns out.. You're right about the tonewood, those should go in place of the plastic driver chamber
 

 

[magzcampos]

 
turns your 225is to RS2i's
 
some rustlting and creaking noise may occur