[rhythmdevils]

Quote:

well my thing is they have to be comfortable and wearable, which to me means circumaural. The yammys really don't seem to like that one bit for whatever reason, the Fostex drivers are much better suited to that sort of housing. I don't know what it is with the yammys, they seem like they'd do it.

Yeah, even my YH3 has just as much bass slam as any of my small driver Fostexen in stock enclosures.  Orthos are such mysterious beasts.  Maybe it's the driver tension with the Yammies?  Maybe it keeps them from being able to push too much air. 

 

[Antistase]

Does anybody has a ID1 driver to sell? I just discovered my Warfie has the same "farth issue" DAC reported on its own. As per DAC, it is not evident until you don't play some serious low frequency strong transient.
I can see where the diafragm is slightly loose due to the cheap quality of the plastic driver frame.
 
I managed to tame the issue replacing the original damping felt with a layer of pannolenci sealed with a tad of bluetac all around the driver. It is actually not a bad result as it tames that slight tendency of the driver of loose control with complex orchestral transients and it seems to me it is also adding a little bit of resolution. I could adopt DAC's solution spacing the magnet a bit farther away (in my case if the back one) but I will have to do the same with the good driver too to equialise efficiency and I hate the idea.
 
Still I want to make this pair perfect as it is going to contend the place for my main pair of cans together with my modded K340.
Also I really would like to take it to top conditions and challenge a pair of LCD2 as soon I will have the chance to find some owner willing to compare close enough to me.
 
I spent painful 10 hours to redo the ear and headband pads with lamb skin (the second ear pad came out impressively prettier than the original) and I like this headphone a lot. If anybody has a well known working driver to offer I would be over the moon.
 
Thansk.

 

[DefectiveAudioComponent]

Quote:

Does anybody has a ID1 driver to sell? I just discovered my Warfie has the same "farth issue" DAC reported on its own. As per DAC, it is not evident until you don't play some serious low frequency strong transient.
I can see where the diafragm is slightly loose due to the cheap quality of the plastic driver frame.
 
I managed to tame the issue replacing the original damping felt with a layer of pannolenci sealed with a tad of bluetac all around the driver. It is actually not a bad result as it tames that slight tendency of the driver of loose control with complex orchestral transients and it seems to me it is also adding a little bit of resolution. I could adopt DAC's solution spacing the magnet a bit farther away (in my case if the back one) but I will have to do the same with the good driver too to equialise efficiency and I hate the idea.
 
Still I want to make this pair perfect as it is going to contend the place for my main pair of cans together with my modded K340.
Also I really would like to take it to top conditions and challenge a pair of LCD2 as soon I will have the chance to find some owner willing to compare close enough to me.
 
I spent painful 10 hours to redo the ear and headband pads with lamb skin (the second ear pad came out impressively prettier than the original) and I like this headphone a lot. If anybody has a well known working driver to offer I would be over the moon.
 
Thansk.

How about trying to fix that driver of yours? You might break it while trying, but it's not working right now anyway..... If it's the same issue as mine, you just have to move the magnet a tiny bit outwards.
 

 

[Sim1]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Antistase /img/forum/go_quote.gif
 
I spent painful 10 hours to redo the ear and headband pads with lamb skin (the second ear pad came out impressively prettier than the original) and I like this headphone a lot. If anybody has a well known working driver to offer I would be over the moon.
 

Could you post some pictures of your pads and headband? I am about to do the same to my pair. And unfortunately I've got the same issue with farting driver. It's been put aside for a while but I feel it's about time to take care of it and I'll have to follow DAC idea andtake drivers apart. But I still don't have a clear vision how to asseble them after.
DAC did you just glue the driver or you used some other tricks (like screws) to put the driver back together and working?
 

 

[Antistase]

I used a tiny line o superglue all around the case edge to close the magnet cover back.
 
I'll post pictures tonight. I cutthree pieces of leather and sewed them.
 
Cheers,
A

 

[Kabeer]

Quote:

Could you post some pictures of your pads and headband? I am about to do the same to my pair. And unfortunately I've got the same issue with farting driver. It's been put aside for a while but I feel it's about time to take care of it and I'll have to follow DAC idea andtake drivers apart. But I still don't have a clear vision how to asseble them after.
DAC did you just glue the driver or you used some other tricks (like screws) to put the driver back together and working?
 

Why don't you all join me in the mission to refurbish drivers with new magnets ?
Since you are gonna open it anyway hehe.
 
 

 

[Antistase]

I'm open to any experimentation provided I can revert back to what I have now.
 
However I think the biggest problem is the stock diaphragm case: just leave those headphones under the sun during a summer and they will bent. Very probably all ID1s have at least one of the driver damaged in some degree.
 
A

 

[Antistase]

DAC,
 
Of course I opened the driver 5 minutes after I perceived the noise

.
 
I can see clearly what part of the diafragm is loose. Still, as I said, the dirver does work adn it plays beatifully. Drum and bass is not my favourite genre and, with my little damping with pannolenci,  the can doesn't produce any wrong noise when playing heavy organ music like Bach's Toccata and Fugue in D minor at high volume. And I have to reckon these cans go down in frequency beautifully.
 
A
 
 
Quote:

How about trying to fix that driver of yours? You might break it while trying, but it's not working right now anyway..... If it's the same issue as mine, you just have to move the magnet a tiny bit outwards.
 

 

 

[Antistase]

DAC,
 
what did you use to raise the magnet? And did you do it to both sides?
 
A
 
 
Quote:Originally Posted by DefectiveAudioComponent 


 

How about trying to fix that driver of yours? You might break it while trying, but it's not working right now anyway..... If it's the same issue as mine, you just have to move the magnet a tiny bit outwards.

 

[Armaegis]

Is the low end farting common in orthos? In my T40v1/Phiaton transplant, I thought it was a loose driver that was causing the rattle, but it turns out it was the enclosure/cups itself shaking from the vibrations.

 

[Antistase]

Not on my HP1. It is deep and tight, even if not as low as the ID1.

 

[nickchen]

Quote:

Is the low end farting common in orthos? In my T40v1/Phiaton transplant, I thought it was a loose driver that was causing the rattle, but it turns out it was the enclosure/cups itself shaking from the vibrations.

I have some doubts about that, although it might sounds similar. I bet it's (still) dirt.
 
 

 

[Armaegis]

Pretty sure it was. I could touch parts of the cup while music was playing and the buzz would disappear or change. Nothing a little blutack and tightening the screws couldn't fix.

 

[DefectiveAudioComponent]

Quote:

DAC,
 
what did you use to raise the magnet? And did you do it to both sides?
 
A

 
I think I only moved one side. Nothing really has to be used to raise it, since they magnets repell each other. Just let it go out a bit and then make it stay there instead.
 
Question:
What color are the "wharfedale" stickers on the cups on your set?
What does the Y split on the cable look like?

 

[Antistase]

Thanks DAC,. Maybe a very thin strip of tape can be layered on the driver box edge to let the magnet stay even. True enough there is not much precision on that driver and the whole unit seem like it could be made fro scratch naked hands with just a good magnifying lens for connecting the diaphragm wires.
 
The stickers (on the upper side of the cups close to the headband) are silver and the Y is a little dot of molded plastic with no engraving of any sort. I will send piccies later tonight.
 
Ciao,
A
 
Quote:

 
I think I only moved one side. Nothing really has to be used to raise it, since they magnets repell each other. Just let it go out a bit and then make it stay there instead.
 
Question:
What color are the "wharfedale" stickers on the cups on your set?
What does the Y split on the cable look like?