[wualta]

Naahh, planars only look good in the TR7..

 

[BoilermakerFan]

Quote:

Naahh, planars only look good in the TR7..

Never been a big fan of TR7s or TR8s...  I love Triumphs, but not so much after 1975 except the motor bikes and the GT6. 

 

[dBel84]

Triumph ??? Why bother when you have these !  
 

 
..dB

 

[BoilermakerFan]

Quote:

Triumph ??? Why bother when you have these !  
 

 
..dB

Because I can use the $30K-$50K difference in cost to put a nice down payment on a 4-7 acre hobby farm 30 minutes NW of Brookfield? 

 
There is a stellar '58 100/6 BN4 that was full frame off resto'ed on the Bay right now and a nice driver 100/6 for $35K BIN.  Growing up a neighbor had a mint TR6 though, so it kind of got in my blood 30 years ago.  I'll eventually pick up a '72, but my son is only 5 so I have at least 10 years before I even start shopping.  I just don't have the time to mess with a British roadster and there isn't a decent shop around here to make ownership easy. 
 
Heck, once I finally get around to building my custom TT, my audio gear will be done.  I'm happy with the rest of my systems and I have no gear lust ATM, other than saving for a MS II + in the future for my transportable source.  It's only $300 so I could grab it now, but I'm just putting aside $50 each month just to have something to aim for.  The lust for the LCD-2s has worn off and I'd rather spend the $1K on a CNC mill, so I've shifted my saved funds to that goal.  Once I have the mill, then I can make all kinds of parts and sell them to eventually fund the LCD-2s anyway. 
 

 

[wualta]

[pssst-- the Healey 3000 rides like a dog cart. Get a '73 Porsche 914 2.0L instead.]
 
But now that we're thinking car audio, it would be interesting to try the Monsoon satellites in a car, dipoles and all. I wonder if they'd produce the necessary SPL and stay clean doing it.
The T50RP driver resembles nothing so much as a miniaturized first-gen Monsoon/Sonigistix satellite, so there's a connection for those who think we've finally gone too far OT. At least we didn't start yammering on about synthetic lubricants.
 

 

[rhythmdevils]

I may just keep my eyes open for some of those monsoons.  I love the speaker velcroed to the dash look.  Best though is to just get a car that comes with a good audio system because they take care of all the spikes and weirdness you get with the enclosed space.  Or a good EQ could work. 
 
It would be cool to go BOSE/John Grado and cover the dash and back door with T50rp drivers, along with a nice sub.  There, I'm on topic too ha
 
edit:  Escalade Thunderpants edition with 20 T50rp drivers in a wooden dash...

 

[dBel84]

Quote:

[pssst-- the Healey 3000 rides like a dog cart. Get a '73 Porsche 914 2.0L instead.]
 

It may be a hard ride but nothing quite like double-de-clutch to make you feel like you are really driving the car. Forget car speakers - just strap the LCD2 onto your head and off you go..dB

 

[ericj]

So, back to the monsoons.
 
I've been doing other things for the last couple days but also thinking about how I'm going to handle this.
 
I've figured out that i can tension the membrane with nothing more high-tech than blue tape. Whether the tension is going to be correct, eh, who knows. Tension will have to be done before i reassemble.
 
4/40 1/4" screws and nuts and washers will work to reassemble. Tested that with the 4/40 3/8" screws i use to attach transistors to heatsinks (and may use them for reassembly - I don't believe they are too long. 1/4" would be Just Right). 
 
For the larger holes (where the base attaches) I'll just go over to my friend's house and use normal pop rivets, just like sonigistix did. But failing that, I think 6/32 screws would work fine.
 
I am currently testing the substance i believe i can use to repair the tear in the membrane i made. Ozark Trail AirStop Vinyl Repair, as found in the sporting goods department at any wallyborg.I have mentioned this stuff before. I've dabbed some on the membrane down by where the cable solders on and will wait 24 hours before testing adhesion and checking to make sure it didn't damage the plastic. I know i could just use a piece of tape, but that tape will fail in a few years unless i get, like, archival grade tape or something. Perhaps someone on the list has suggestions there, I guess.
 
I'm guessing i can repair the trace with Permatex QuickGrid. I imagine Donald may have suggestions for other substances. But i already have the QuickGrid.
 
It will come as no surprise to Wualta that i plan to re-adhere the membrane with a thin layer of Permatex Flowable Silicone.

 

[wualta]

Does anyone know of a conductive paint like the QuickGrid that comes in a precision applicator suitable for drawing fine lines?
 
I'd be interested to know what the Monsoons would sound like if you didn't tension them very much. Probably take a big hit in efficiency.

 

[ericj]

Quote:

Does anyone know of a conductive paint like the QuickGrid that comes in a precision applicator suitable for drawing fine lines?
 
I'd be interested to know what the Monsoons would sound like if you didn't tension them very much. Probably take a big hit in efficiency.

Sure. Chemtronics Circuit Works pen. But it's, you know, a pen - designed for writing on hard surfaces, like circuit boards.
 
It's analogous to other paint-pens but less sloppy than most. You have to press down to release the paint. Makes scribbling on a thin membrane with a repaired tear in it a bit tricky.

 

[Rick]

or you could just make a big blob of that ink pen on a piece of paper, then take a feather like in the old'en days...

 

[Armaegis]

There are conductive paints and wire glues (usually graphite based) that should work as well.
 
Or make your own... http://www.instructables.com/id/Conductive-Glue-And-Conductive-Thread-Make-an-LED/step1/Make-Conductive-Glue-Conductive-Paint-and-Conduc/

 

[ericj]

 
Quote:

or you could just make a big blob of that ink pen on a piece of paper, then take a feather like in the old'en days...

Well, if the objective is making it less sloppy to apply than the 'lil brush that comes with the Quick Grid kit, that doesn't really accomplish it.
 
Quick Grid seems to be full of copper flakes, fwiw.
 
Anyhow - regarding AirStop - not quite 24 hours now but it doesn't seem to have damaged or warped the monsoon membrane, is quite flexible (it's supposed to be for sealing leaky air mattresses), and is no longer at all gummy. Good adhesion too - can't scrape it off with my fingernails.
 
So, I figure i'm good to go with that.

 

[dBel84]

I use the circuit writer pen to repair the traces on the ortho diaphragms. I fashion a wood quill , unscrew the nib off the pen and dip into the pen like an inkwell - it dries quickly so you have to be pretty quick. The trick is to get a thin layer on the wood and quickly retrace the broken track. If it gets thick, use a cotton bud with alcohol to remove it and start over.
 
Good to know about airstop - seems like a useful thing to have about..dB

 

[ericj]

 
Quote:

I use the circuit writer pen to repair the traces on the ortho diaphragms. I fashion a wood quill , unscrew the nib off the pen and dip into the pen like an inkwell - it dries quickly so you have to be pretty quick. The trick is to get a thin layer on the wood and quickly retrace the broken track. If it gets thick, use a cotton bud with alcohol to remove it and start over.
 
Good to know about airstop - seems like a useful thing to have about..dB

I do wonder if the circuit writer pen is better - I've so far only used quick grid on worn-out carbon contacts in remote controls, where it seems the first application always flakes off after a few days, and then the 2nd application lasts a very long time. CAIG has a special product for that job but i never imagine myself as having a whole pile of remotes that i need to refurbish.
 
Airstop's literature claims that it can repair tears in air bladders as long as 2 inches, and i have a hard time believing that. But it can probably handle the 6mm tear i made in the monsoon membrane.