[dBel84]

A little progress with the Wharfedales
 

 

 
sony ECR400 headband and some creative bending..dB

 

[sachu]

Nice don..i liked the gold rings that you used to hold the cups that you posted earlier..what pads are those btw? From the look of the baffle it seemed like the drivers were positioned for the use of O2 pads...off center.
 
My wharfie cups are nearly ready. Still pondering over a suitable headband assembly, not wanting to go the T50RP route on this one.

 

[ericj]

Quote:

JP: Just a hunch: measure the DC offset, if any, of the two amps.
 
Keep in mind as you envision DIY drivers that the magnet's shape should mirror and parallel as much as possible the traces on the diaphragm. We see this in the serpentine-trace Fostex drivers particularly. I believe ericj's experience reassembling a T50v1 type driver showed this practice to be more than just tradition. In fact, his idea of using a floor drain grate (in steel, not brass) as the holder/pole-piece for some NdFeB magnets would give us something very like the early version of the LCD-2.

 
Right. Something like this:
 
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=BkR&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&q=drain+steel&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=15362217560006205480&ei=ELG_TOW_B4e2sAOc9LD-BA&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=result&resnum=6&ved=0CH8Q8wIwBQ#
 
Paved with something like these:
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/100-NEODYMIUM-SUPER-STRONG-MAGNETS-4x2x1-3mm-N35-/160381434743?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item25577a7b77
 
and then a quick dunk in shellac.
 
Cheap, simple, probably effective. For serpentine traces anyway.

 

[i_djoel2000]

Quote:

I was thinking of doing the same thing. All I need now is a material to use to glue the magnets onto, to maintain a level plane....hey, no duh, I could just use twice the magnets and crisscross them....
 
I wouldn't at all worry about the magnet's strength. The seller isn't so much an idiot, as just poorly informed. Yes, strong magnetic fields can interfere with electronics, but you're talking much stronger magnetics than that.
 
To quote Emporer Palpatine, "DooOOO iiiiiiiit!"
 
Btw, that pic is showing a ring magnet. I think the easiest thing to use would be bar magnets. Also, for your reference, the SFI's are 4cm (40mm, 1.57 inches) long, meaning that you need to get a longer bar magnet than you're looking at.

i wasn't planning on sticking that super strong magnet inside the driver permanently

 
i was thinking about strengthen the magnet by inducing it with those super strong magnet maybe for couple of days, or weeks?

this is what i learnt in middle school, inducing them with stronger magnet in order to increase the strength of old magnet. wrong thought, no?

 

[yhong26]

Quote:

i wasn't planning on sticking that super strong magnet inside the driver permanently

 
i was thinking about strengthen the magnet by inducing it with those super strong magnet maybe for couple of days, or weeks?

this is what i learnt in middle school, inducing them with stronger magnet in order to increase the strength of old magnet. wrong thought, no?

ya i joel,from my opinion,this can be strengthen the magnet by using this way...just try it,and u also can control the strength by control the coupling days.
 

 

[dBel84]

Quote:

.what pads are those btw? From the look of the baffle it seemed like the drivers were positioned for the use of O2 pads...off center.

 
well spotted - those were a temporary measure until I could find the dense foam to stiffen up the form of the O2esque pads. 
 
Latest pics - tweaked the internal damping a little, sounding mighty fine, these pads add even more space to the soundstage. 
 

 

 
Thanks for the links EricJ - I am going to investigate this more seriously - the big trick for me was making the template but that drain thingamajig looks like it was made for orthos. AND I have a good test bed for this style of ortho , now to mind a way to make the driver and this will be a true DIY ortho for me. 
 
..dB
 
ps - the silly bands are part of being a dad to a 7 year old  

 

[ericj]

Quote:

 
Thanks for the links EricJ - I am going to investigate this more seriously - the big trick for me was making the template but that drain thingamajig looks like it was made for orthos. AND I have a good test bed for this style of ortho , now to mind a way to make the driver and this will be a true DIY ortho for me. 
 
..dB
 
ps - the silly bands are part of being a dad to a 7 year old  

 The drain grate was just the first steel one i saw online - I've seen similar and better at lowes, home depot, etc. I could swear i saw one that was nearly completely flat, without the intersecting crossmember, about 3".
 
Originally i dreamed of a Stax Lambda shaped driver with loooong bar magnets, but the long magnets are very expensive (United Nuclear has 'em) and it would require fabricating the steel pieces from scratch. So i think that would have to be a later project, based on success of the simpler method.

 

[desktopninja]

Omg a lot of comments

 

[elcoholic]

Quote:

The critical piece here is how it sounds to you - from what you describe , you have a great formula that works for you. My suspicion is that I would find them a little bright BUT I my not . As for the recabling - I tend to repurpose the original cable support - release the metal clip, pull the gromet off and then use these same items for the new cable. It is fiddly but works a treat ..dB

DBel84,
 
Call it power of suggestion, but after living with them for a few weeks after recabling I'm finding them to be on the hot side now with 2 out 3 systems/sources.  When I crank them with either my iPod via Onkyo TX-8011 at work or my moving coil Ortofon cart they sizzle a bit.  On my #2 home system with a Signet cart they don't get quite so hot.  I didn't hear this with the stock cable so I guess I can hear the difference in the new cable afterall.  To recap the HP-1 mods for convenience - the drivers are bedded in and sealed to the ear cups and baffle with caulking, felt-manilla folder-felt sandwich behind the driver for damping, Mogami mini quad mic cable, and no treble dot.  The felt is just std weight for crafting.  So what to do to take a bit of the brightness of the top without messing up the bass?  I could take more bass as long as it stays clean and tight like it is now.
 

 

[sachu]

yummy...almost time for a much deserving upgrade to my wharfedale isodynamics
 

 
 

 

[ujamerstand]

A quick trip to the deep fryer, I see?

Looks strangely delicious.

 

[elcoholic]

Quote:

yummy...almost time for a much deserving upgrade to my wharfedale isodynamics
 

 
 

Those are beautiful.  Maple, Myrtle, ???

 

 

[Rick]

I figured I'd share my ideas/theories and get input on them, given how much this thread has already given to me.
 
The first being, I've noticed the optimal depth between earpads/ears and the driver is equivalent to the depth from behind the driver to the back wall of the cup. Would have something to do with the rear wave cancelling at the same point that the front wave reaches your ears.
 
Second, look at the following design idea. Note, it is not to scale nor is it in any way calculated angles, merely a rough theoretical perspective.
 

 

[joelpearce]

Where do you find Bitumen?  it seems to be a pretty popular damping material worth adding to the arsenal, but I have no clue where to look.

 

[Rick]

Any hardware store. It's roofing tar more or less.