[satwilson]

Quote:

I just got the Vmoda cable and am really happy with it!  Thanks for the tip LFF!!
 
Not only did it fix the static, dropouts and channel imbalances with no need for de-oxit, which I also ordered already unfortunately, and which was just as expensive as the cable.  But it also had a noticeable effect on SQ.  I'm guessing the stock cable is steel or something because the Vmoda cable is actually warmer throughout, with less and smoother treble.  I'm guessing it's a substantial enough difference to be shown in measurements because it's enough to affect my damping scheme/pad arrangement. 
 
I'd say the Vmoda cable is a must buy. 
 
We'll see if I wind up with any complaints as I listen more. 

So you are just guessing! Cut the stock cable to replace the amp end. Observe the microscopic wires. I again repeat, do the same to the VMODA cable. Is it measurabling better?(gauge)? Mogami 24 gauge, neutrik plugs, rules. Just because LFF says it is better? Read my previous posts as to why the VMODA is better than stock. Stock cable "steel"???? Do the research and quit guessing.
 
 

 

[kalbee]

I was looking for Shure pads all over also. I've found a few Canadian stores, or stores that ship to Canada, but the shipping charges are ridiculous... lamusic.ca for example. Maybe it's only bad when shipped to Quebec...?
 
Though I found this:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Shure-SRH840-Replacement-Ear-Cushions-/200708434812?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2ebb27ab7c
Ordered mine there, ends up being about $10 cheaper than ordering in Canada due to our shipping charges. They don't seem to have much in stock though.

 

[kalbee]

Erm... just btw, what kind of neutrik plug actually fits in the Fostex headphone cavity?

 

[satwilson]

Quote:

Erm... just btw, what kind of neutrik plug actually fits in the Fostex headphone cavity?

The right angle Neutrik plug is slightly larger than the entry hole to the jack, as most are. I was able to enlarge the entry hole by holding the phones with the jack DOWN, not sideways or up. I then used a dremel abrasive bit, smaller than the entry hole, manually, with a circular motion, to enlarge the cavity. After each pass I then applied my shop vac, to the hole, to insure that the abraded plastic detritus did not enter the enclosed jack. This takes a few passes to work, 10-15 mins.There are 2 neutrik 1/8" right angle plugs, gold or nickel, parts express, etc. The choice of cable is also problematic as the entry hole at the 1/8" neutrik plug is small as well. If anyone is interested, I can detail this as well. This is not a project for people with no patience or skill, but IMHO, takes these phones to the next level after acoustic remedies. Pics are available as well. Do your homework, cut the stock cable, to replace the 1/4 jack, so you can assess the stock wiring. What did you see?

 

[rhythmdevils]

Quote:

So you are just guessing! Cut the stock cable to replace the amp end. Observe the microscopic wires. I again repeat, do the same to the VMODA cable. Is it measurabling better?(gauge)? Mogami 24 gauge, neutrik plugs, rules. Just because LFF says it is better? Read my previous posts as to why the VMODA is better than stock. Stock cable "steel"???? Do the research and quit guessing.
 
 

I don't even know what to say to this post.  you have misunderstood in pretty much every way imaginable.  Where's the facepalm smiley when you need it?

 

[wje]

Quote:

I don't even know what to say to this post.  you have misunderstood in pretty much every way imaginable.  Where's the facepalm smiley when you need it?

 
At your service.  
 

 
 

 

[ambchang]

To Canadians.  Instead of Paxmate, I got silverstone acoustic foam from NCIX, got a huge pack of them for $20.
 
http://ncix.com/products/?sku=55319&vpn=RL-SF01&manufacture=Silverstone%20Technology
 
I am not sure if they work the same as Paxmate, but I have sourced around the net, and paxmate, including shipping, would be in the range of $35 for a pack.  So I went with the silverstone.
 
I got my Shure pads when I ordered my T50RP from B&H.
 
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/673849-REG/Shure_HPAEC840_HPAEC840_Replacement_Earcup_Pads.html
 
Not sure how much shipping would be if bought separately though.  My solution, but another paid of T50s and a whole bunch of pads to get your money's worth.  Never can have enough T50s to mod.

 

[dgcrane]

I am getting an error with B&H for selling just the pads, saying that they will not ship the shure pads to Canada due to dealer restrictions. I didn't really want to spend $100 on stuff I don't need so I just bought from a previous ebay link. Thanks for the suggestions everyone.
 
Darren C

 

[kalbee]

Considering I suspected my stock cables to had been damaged during shipping, I actually never bothered using it. But thanks for clearing it up! I thought you had found a smaller plug waiting on a sale to buy a Dremel lol.

 

[HiFiGuy528]

I'm breaking mine in right now.  Will report back on sound quality.

 

[Goras]

Mine solution for cable with Fostex. Reason to do this was manly broken jack socket, also stock cable was too long for me and its quality isn't best.
You would need some tools and ~1 hour.
Done to T40RP, but with T50RP it is all the same at every part.
I do like single entry headphones as they are more comfortable for me. Stock Fostex wires was rubbish, with just new cable connected to one driver and old one, going inside headband  to right side there was imbalance in sound.
 




 
I used Canare StarQuad L-4E5C. L-4E6S would be too thick. Stock wire inside headband replaced with two bare wires from Canare, pieces that stick out from headband hided in nice shrinking tubes. Holes in cups was 2.15mm, needed to be drilled to 3mm.
Stock jack socked removed by everyone's favorite method - brutal force. Hole in cup after that was way too big for wire just going in but perfect for Neutrik NTP3RC-B without 'jack' part, only enclosure. I had one old and broken laying around, so its painting is gone. Tried to fix it with CD marker - I do not recommend that.
L-4E5S with some patience and force can go into that jack enclosure, but it is easier to remove isolation and shield at long enough part, then put it into and secure with hot glue inside. Also whole thing could be glued to cups with hot glue or epoxy.
Result: ALL wires are the same type, nowhere stock, thin cables left. Improvement in sound with mine pair is enormous: with stock socket and stock cable there wasn't any sound on one side and other was losing signal, now they work!
 

 

[Twinster]

Based on my experience I owned the D2k first and applied the MarkL mod on them and they sounded very good. I traded them for another brand by curiosity and regret it. Bought the D5K later and was expecting to be Wowed but was just ok. I did the MarkL mod on them and the result was not as good as the D2k. I believed the main differences is the wood cup + inside cup size volume. For me the Bass as to dominant on the D5K. Poeple claim that the D7K are more balanced but I have not tried them yet.

 

It's good because things are not always what they seem...they don't even share the same max input spec in the Fostex datasheet. For what we know this is the ref of the PCB, not of the driver itself...they prolly share the same PCB but not the same diaphragm. That will avoid all the business that's surrounded pimped d2k's supposedly sounding better than stock d5k's to start all over again.

 

[Lurkumaural]

Nice recable. I was too lazy too photograph mine. Or busy. I don't know.

Hey look, vintages!

 

[Pars]

I just ordered the V-Moda cable. I reterminated my stock cable on the amp end with a Neutrik because the stock connector wasn't making good contact in my extension cable (Neutrik connectors, Mogami 2534). The stock cable contains very small "wires" (30 ga or less), which appear to be copper woven in with some sort of threads. A real pain in the ass to remove the coating and get a decent solder joint on the Neutrik connector, even with flux. They are not steel however
 
I measured the resistance of the stock cable (4-wire measurement) and it is quite high for a cable of this length at around 2 ohms (versus 0.1 ohms or less for a piece of Mogami mini twice as long). This was after terminating it (twice). I'll have to measure an unmodified stock cable to see if it is also high resistance, but I'm betting it will be.

 

[satwilson]

Quote:

I don't even know what to say to this post.  you have misunderstood in pretty much every way imaginable.  Where's the facepalm smiley when you need it?

I apologize, my response was somewhat harsh and I am sorry. What I have been trying to convey is there are ways to quantitatively upgrade the cable. I mistook your humor in "guessing, steel" at face value, my bad. However for me, replacing the stock cable with the VMODA, without knowing the gauge of the wire seems problematic.I again apologize for my harsh comments.