Feb 21, 2012 at 12:12 PM Post #6,571 of 11,346
Finally dug up my notes. Resonators do indeed need to have its sides open (otherwise it would be too stiff to act as spring anyway! duh, I'm so stupid). And for anyone who wants equations for customizing your own setup...
 
-Fuzz materials (glass fiber or mineral fiber in this case) absorb high frequencies much better than lows. By doubling the thickness, you will double the absorption coefficient of lows up till ~1kHz. The higher frequencies will gain higher absorption rate but much less significantly (relatively).
-When adding fibrous panels, leaving an airspace behind it will improve the bass absorption while remaining more or less same for, say, 800Hz+.
-Adding a perforated facing over a fibrous layer will increase its low frequency absorption while considerably lowering the higher frequency absorption (will be reflected by the facing).
-Resonant panels are very good at absorbing specific frequencies. Adding fibrous materials within the otherwise airspace will allow it to broaden its absorption range. Essentially you make something C shaped. frequency = 600 / sqrt(surface_weight_in_kg_per_sq.meter x depth_of_airspace)
-Same concept as above for the (Helmholtz) resonator absorber. The idea is very much the same construction as above but with slits on its reflecting surface. Absorption range broadens with addition of fibrous material in cavity. frequency = (55000 x cross_sectional_area_of_neck) / sqrt(neck_volume x cavity_volume)
-Variable Frequency Absorber can be made by applying the Helmholtz resonator concept but instead of slits use holes of various sizes. It's effects should be somewhat similar to adding fibrous material in the resonator cavity.
 
Just want to mention that since these are from a Architectural Acoustic class, many of these so called "higher frequency" is represented by graphs up to 2kHz. I don't believe these would be actual absorption graphs though, and tackling specific frequencies with resonant panels will still be very effective.
 
Gypsum boards seem like a nice material to absorb lows, and reflect highs. Too bad its too thick, and bad ones might rust your electronics.
 
Feb 21, 2012 at 1:31 PM Post #6,572 of 11,346
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Glad that cardboard work for you 
beerchug.gif
. I think you should also try the resonator because from what i read, it's the most effective way to absorb low frequency 
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I actually did try the resonator first. I'm not sure if it's the cardboard I was using or the lack of a sharp knife (only had scissors), but I would always destroy the cardboard trying to set it up like that! Haha.
 
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Here is the picture of Biplast. Sorry for low quality, that's the best I could squeeze out of my cam. It should be capable of more than that though, I think.

This foam is much more open than Paxmate. 2-3 top layers of cells seem not to have any walls at all, in the deep there are walls.


Ah, yes. That does look much more open than the Paxmate/Silverstone acoustic foam.
 
 
Feb 21, 2012 at 2:21 PM Post #6,573 of 11,346
This is for my D2000s not my T50RPs, but I liked the radiator idea so I thought I'd give it a shot.



I think it has diffused the highs just a touch, doesn't seem to be as sibilant on certain tracks anymore. My test tracks, from Queensryche's Promised Land, weren't as grating without EQ. :D Whatcha think?
 
Feb 21, 2012 at 3:42 PM Post #6,575 of 11,346
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This is for my D2000s not my T50RPs, but I liked the radiator idea so I thought I'd give it a shot.

I think it has diffused the highs just a touch, doesn't seem to be as sibilant on certain tracks anymore. My test tracks, from Queensryche's Promised Land, weren't as grating without EQ.
biggrin.gif
Whatcha think?


Looks great! What is the yellow stuff?
 
 
Feb 21, 2012 at 3:53 PM Post #6,576 of 11,346


Quote:
This is for my D2000s not my T50RPs, but I liked the radiator idea so I thought I'd give it a shot.

I think it has diffused the highs just a touch, doesn't seem to be as sibilant on certain tracks anymore. My test tracks, from Queensryche's Promised Land, weren't as grating without EQ.
biggrin.gif
Whatcha think?



as a fellow D2000 owner, i'll be keeping tabs.
 
Feb 21, 2012 at 4:15 PM Post #6,577 of 11,346
Nice to see some new ideas on this thread!
 
Love to see some of you guys turning the ol' gears within the noggin'!
 
beerchug.gif

 
Feb 21, 2012 at 4:41 PM Post #6,579 of 11,346


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1st off I want to try damping the cup resonances without reducing the internal volume. This is where the "Quiet-Kote" comes in. This will require completely removing the drivers to spray the cups, so I will also re-cable at the same time (why leave the crappy 6.3mm socket?). Question: Is it really an Aluminum pad on the PCB board of the driver? If so has anyone tried the mineral oil trick to solder copper to the traces?
 



 


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The pads are copper. They are easy to lift, though, so beware of putting strain on them or excess heat.




Seems to come from a post from last fall...
 
Feb 21, 2012 at 4:48 PM Post #6,581 of 11,346


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Who made the claim that the solder was aluminum and not tin/rosin/lead?  That's odd - but, it could seem plausible given their film surface and it not being able to withstand too much heat.
 



 
Quote:
I think it's the T20v1 that actually has the words "Aluminum solder only" inside the cup... I don't own one, but have read something like that on head-fi.

 
That must have been it. Just a random thought I floating in my mind I wanted to check. I think that's where I saw it. Thanks for the info!
 
 
 
Feb 21, 2012 at 7:21 PM Post #6,583 of 11,346
With all the talk of a Helmholtz resonator, why hasn't anyone talked about the tuning of it?
 
Feb 21, 2012 at 7:47 PM Post #6,584 of 11,346


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Yup, and you can see what happens if you ignore what the sticker says: http://www.head-fi.org/t/566096/fostex-t20v1-needs-repair
 
I've got one (working) pair of these coming my way as we speak 


Wow, when I was modding my T50's, one of the small wires came off (weak soldier points). I randomly grabbed a soldering iron and some solder (had no idea what it was, guess it is aluminum) and fixed it. Guess I lucked out. :p
 
Feb 21, 2012 at 7:55 PM Post #6,585 of 11,346
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With all the talk of a Helmholtz resonator, why hasn't anyone talked about the tuning of it?


There have been some talks about tuning, though not for the T50RP specifically. For now, I think it's a "testing the waters" kind of thing. If this type of mod catches on, I'm sure we'll see more people discussing specific tuning and tweaking.
 
 

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