Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW!
May 10, 2016 at 4:54 PM Post #11,251 of 11,345
Is it possible to improve bass without losing the clarity or relative soundstage?
 
I've got temporary masking tape on my cup vents, but before I screw open the bits themselves I'd just like to know what to look for. I'm lost when it comes to reading the charts on the first page. :/
 
Thanks!
 
May 11, 2016 at 6:09 PM Post #11,252 of 11,345
Is it possible to improve bass without losing the clarity or relative soundstage?

I've got temporary masking tape on my cup vents, but before I screw open the bits themselves I'd just like to know what to look for. I'm lost when it comes to reading the charts on the first page. :/

Thanks!



How do you mean improve? Tighter or louder?

Covering vents, and damping more will reduce and tighten bass up by reducing how easily air can move.
 
May 14, 2016 at 7:50 PM Post #11,254 of 11,345
How do you mean improve? Tighter or louder?

Covering vents, and damping more will reduce and tighten bass up by reducing how easily air can move.


Increase the thump, as it were, yeah.
 
May 27, 2016 at 2:13 PM Post #11,255 of 11,345
Does anyone know if the drivers in the T40mkii/ T20mkii are the same as the ones in the T50's? 
I've just opened up a pair of T40's (Ebay bargain!) to see what drivers they have and it appears that they have the same part number as the t50s but the driver is obviously white/cream!
eek.gif
 is there going to be any point in modding them or not? as i'm not sure if they are going to be inferior to a modded pair of T50's 
 
May 27, 2016 at 4:51 PM Post #11,256 of 11,345
  Does anyone know if the drivers in the T40mkii/ T20mkii are the same as the ones in the T50's? 
I've just opened up a pair of T40's (Ebay bargain!) to see what drivers they have and it appears that they have the same part number as the t50s but the driver is obviously white/cream!
eek.gif
 is there going to be any point in modding them or not? as i'm not sure if they are going to be inferior to a modded pair of T50's 

The drivers are the same.
The rear damping material may be different.
To get more bass, you'll need to drill a 2 mm or 3 mm hole on each rear side of the cups. Much larger and the bass gets wooly.
Cover the holes on the inside with speaker grill cloth. If you don't have any, I'll send you some.
 
Check Here.
 
May 28, 2016 at 7:53 AM Post #11,257 of 11,345
The drivers are the same.
The rear damping material may be different.
To get more bass, you'll need to drill a 2 mm or 3 mm hole on each rear side of the cups. Much larger and the bass gets wooly.
Cover the holes on the inside with speaker grill cloth. If you don't have any, I'll send you some.

Check Here.


That's great! I can stop being so OCD about it now haha. I'm going to need to recable so I might use the empty hole from the jack as a bass port maybe then drill a matching one on the other side? Also would felt work as speaker cloth?
Thanks for replying by the way :D
 
May 28, 2016 at 8:11 AM Post #11,258 of 11,345
That's great! I can stop being so OCD about it now haha. I'm going to need to recable so I might use the empty hole from the jack as a bass port maybe then drill a matching one on the other side? Also would felt work as speaker cloth?
Thanks for replying by the way
biggrin.gif

Yes, but the thickness of the felt will affect the amount of venting. More venting = more bass. Less venting = less bass.
 
Thin felt will provide more venting than thick felt. Don't use adhesive backed felt since the adhesive will effectively seal the vent.
 
If you make your hole too large and the bass is loose and boomy, you can use thicker felt to "tune" the vent, essentially making the hole "smaller" ...or, if the bass is too thin use thinner felt to make the vent "larger" or drill a second hole.
 
Think of it as an interaction between hole size X felt thickness. The key is to find the optimal hole size X felt thickness that produces the desired Bass Quality and Bass Quantity for your entire modification configuration (all the other damping components you use).
 
May 28, 2016 at 5:39 PM Post #11,259 of 11,345
Anyone be willing to let me pay shipping both ways and send you my t50rp and you mod them for me?  I don't really care which mods, they sound great the way they are, but i would like a little more deep bass for EDM listening :D
 
I'll pay for labor/materials if we can get an estimate worked out
 
May 28, 2016 at 5:43 PM Post #11,260 of 11,345
  Just another guy's opinion...take it for what it's worth...my 2 cents...YMMV...
 
I took yesterday off to mod a set of T50RP's to mrspeakers' specs but without the O2 pads.  Today, I made my compairisons; in total, over 14 hours of modding and testing.  My objective has been to get as close as possible to LCD2's for under $100, so $150 Stax O2 pads do not factor into my goal.  
 
Dynamat is nasty stuff, hard to work, and very difficult to remove as you will see later.  It took me 6 hours to measure, cut, and place Dynamat in the cups, Paxmate Plus over the Dynamat, plasticine in the baffles/around drivers and Paxmate over that, 2mm stiff craft felt over the drivers secured with rubber cement, and changing out Shure 840 pads more times than I want to count - these are very difficult to put on the Fostex cups!
 
FWIW, I also compared "limp" felt, naked drivers, 1 and 2 layers of 3M Transpore tape, and 1 layer of 2mm stiff craft felt from Michael's.
 
My comparisons were made between my:
 
1. Rastapants 2 (with stiff felt - soft side down; Shure 840 ear pads, not Stax O2 ear pads)
2. Stock T50RP
3. BMF (vanity plates) with plasticine baffles, Paxmate cups, stock bass port felt, stock white driver felt, Paxmate ring under stock ear pads vs no ring with Shure 840 pads
4. Shure SE535 in ear monitors
5. Audeze LCD2 - v1, second revision of pads and cables
 
Chain:  MacBook Pro --> glass toslink to Dacmini --> Stock cables to respective phones 
 
Lossless media files :  Anna Maria Jopek-Upojenie; Diana Krall-My Love Is A Mountain Side, Dancing In the Dark, The Look of Love; Patricia Barber-Light My Fire, Too Rich For My Blood; Sade-Please Send Me Someone to Love; Rufus Wainwright-Slideshow; Radiohead-Jigsaw Falling Into Place, There There, You; Gorillaz-Dare, Clint Eastwood, Feel Good, Inc; Donald Fagan-Century's End, Babylon Sisters, Janie Runaway; k.d. lang-Wash Me Clean; Brahms 3rd Symphony 3rd movement; Bill Evans-Peace Piece
 
These tracks are challenging from bass to mids to treble consisting of jazz instrumentals; jazz vocals; alternative electronica, jazz-rock fusion, and classical.
 
Conclusions:
 
1. Stock T50RP aren't bad but they are held back by resonance and reflections.
 
2. Dynamat is a royal pain and not worth the effort.
 
3. Rastapants 2 is very good but does not suit my ears.  The sound is neutral but with veiled mids and highs; bass is very good, textured, and tight.  They have an obvious narrow soundstage/closed- in sound to my ears compared to all the other phones in this set of my comparisons.  This is not surprising to me since they are completely closed.  Obviously, I have not and will not try the O2 pads.  The excellent results mrspeakers achieved may be due to the synergy of his mods with O2 pads vs. different preferences, equipment, opinions, placebo effect, bias, etc...mine included.
 
4. I prefer the sound of my BMF, as described, with their (to me) better clarity and wider soundstage compared to Rastapants 2.  So, I next removed the Paxmate and Dynamat over the bass ports, then tested and the result was improved soundstage and better mids/treble but with some bass bloom.  Next, I removed the Paxmate and Dynamat over the center cup compartments and the result was more improvement to soundstage but a bit more bass bleeding into the midrange.  The solution for me was to cover 3 of the 4 bass port slots with Paxmate (with the stock bass port felt in place) -  Problems solved (for me).
 
5. After (conservatively) literally 100's of individual mods to 4 sets of T50RP's and countless hours of side-by-side comparisons, I have concluded:
 
  * T50RP's can be improved
 
  * Rastapants 2 is very good but I like my BMF's more because they satisfy my preferences just as mrspeakers tuned his to suit his preferences.  There is no "right or wrong" way or "best" way. It simply comes down to personal taste, preferences, opinions, equipment, etc.  That is why you can read everything about modding and a multitude of opinions but you will never know which is better for you until you try them for yourself.
 
  * As good as I have been able to make them, and as good as they are for < $100 cans, modded T50RP's are no match for Shure SE535's and LCD2's. In my opinion, the LCD2's and SE535 are in another league with superior soundstage, deep-textured-controlled bass, clarity-space-and air, absence of bass bleed into the midrange, to die for mids, and transparent treble. SE535's give the LCD2's a run for the money. It is not surprising to me that the modded T50RP's (mine) have consistently been bested considering the SE535 has 2 bass an 1 treble balanced armatures per side and the LCD2 is open and 4 or 5 times the driver size compared to T50RP's.  If I had never heard the SE535's and LCD2's, I would be very happy with my modded Fostex. In fact, I am very happy with them for their low price and very good sound, once modded.
 
  * Simple is better.  The easiest mods and best bang for the buck, as far as I am concerned, are Paxmate in the cups, plasticine in the baffles, stock bass port felt intact, Paxmate covering 3 of the 4 bass port vents on the inside of the cups, the baffle vents open, and a Paxmate ring under stock ear pads. For the trouble of putting plasticine in the little holes around the driver, the effort was not worth the results to me. For $15, Shure 840 pads offer a good upgrade (except for the difficulty of putting them on) and keep the total modded price under $100.
 
  * Stiff felt is definitely better than limp felt.
 
  * Stock white driver felt, 2 layers of 3M Transpore tape, and 1 layer of stiff craft felt are too close for me to tell a difference.
 
  * Shure 840 pads are definitely better than stock, cost $15, and are a pain in the butt to put on - make this your last and final mod.
 
  * Music straight from my MacBook Pro vs Dacmini is definitely different, favoring the Dacmini by a wide margin. Still, if I had never heard the Dacmini I would be happy with the MacBook Pro, alone. Yes, it can drive the modded T50RP's.
 
  * Paxmate over baffle plasticine was not better than plasticine, alone, with my mods.
 
 
 
Mods and comparisons:
 

 
CEntrance Dacmini, Stock T50RP, BMF #4 mods, Rastapants 2 mods with Shure 840 pads, Audeze LCD2, Shure SE535, MacBook Pro.
 
 
 

 
Plasticine in baffles and Paxmate over plasticine. Electrical tape over bass port vents.
 
 
 

 
Dynamat in cups. Plasticine around drivers. Paxmate over baffle plasticine.
 
 
 

 
Paxmate over Dynamat. Driver waiting for stiff felt. I also tried limp felt, 2 layers of 3M Transpore tape, and naked drivers. Stiff felt is better than limp felt and naked drivers; and equivalent to stock white driver felt and 2 layers of 3M Transpore.
 
 
 

 
Stiff felt over naked drivers. Plasticine in baffles and around drivers. Paxmate over baffle plasticine. Stiff felt works - limp felt does not.
 
 
 

 
Stock set and Rastapants 2 with Shure 840 pads.
 
 

 
Stiff felt. Dynamat + Paxmate in cups. Removed Paxmate over baffle plasticine. Removed Dynamat and Paxmate over bass ports, stock bass port felt intact.
 
 
 

 
Rastapants 2 with bass port exposed by cutting away Paxmate and Dynamat.  This opened them up quite a bit. As above, I kept the bass port felt in place.
 
 

 
Rastapants 2 with bass ports an central housing exposed by removing the Paxmate and Dynamat.  This further improved soundstage.  There was a bit of bass bloom into the mids corrected by placing Paxmate over 3 of the 4 felt-covered bass ports (not shown).
 
 
 
 

 
 
Hi there, if I pay shipping both ways, labor and materials, will you mod my t50rp mk3's to BMF mod?  please let me know an estimate in PM or on here and we can go from there... thanks ^^
 
Jun 2, 2016 at 3:16 PM Post #11,262 of 11,345

What wire gauge and how many conductors? I have performed tests using 7 types of connectors that do fit the T50's; the biggest problem will be the opening in the back of the head shell to accommodate your cable. I have one I prefer that has a 6.33 mm opening. I have used it with Belden, Canare, and Mogami cables as well as some UP OCC copper using three and four wire braids. If you can give me an od (outside diameter) of the wire in question I can probably help you out. I originally tried straight connectors but personally I prefer right angle connectors for the T50's and some of those have an opening of 6.45 mm. If you are interested in DIY I probably have a couple extra I can send you.
 
Jun 2, 2016 at 4:07 PM Post #11,263 of 11,345
  is there any DIY plug that fits the T50RP?

We have extended straight and right angle plugs available. 
 
http://www.plussoundaudio.com/diy/connectors.html
 
PlusSound Stay updated on PlusSound at their sponsor profile on Head-Fi.
 
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Jun 2, 2016 at 5:15 PM Post #11,264 of 11,345
  We have extended straight and right angle plugs available. 
 
http://www.plussoundaudio.com/diy/connectors.html


The 3.5 mm listed in the link will indeed fit the T50RP's, I have several that style that I am testing and so far they are holding up well. I had no idea though that the gold plating was "cryo" treated though, most interesting.
 
 I measured the extended portion at 5.4 mm on the right angle connector, even 6 mm od will fit the T50's.
 

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