[Tiemen]

  I decided to switch up the color of my slider and got the HM5 pads on without ripping them. I'm liking the new look a lot! The pads seal a little better than the Alcantaras do so there is a little better bass response. I like it! 
 
 

 
The old HM5 pads or the newer with memory foam?

 

[PETEREK]

These are the original set. When I had the memory foam version they seemed to have a tighter lip (smaller diameter lip).

 

[fleasbaby]

Cup tuning lesson learned today: bass ports are important.

Also, don't be lazy and try to drill them into your wooden cups without taking them apart first. As soon as the drill bit broke into the inside, it grabbed the cotton I had in there and turned it into a tight little ball around the bit making it hopelessly stuck...LMAO.

 

[bitsnbytes]

I just installed the memory foam type on my "storm troopers" and had a cursing time. I wished I had caught that tip about some oil/Vaseline on the edges, but I'd probably would still have have a hard time because it was hard to get a grip. The edges are now frayed, but at least they're on and not that noticeable.
 
I wasn't initially fond of the pads, but I found that it's much better with some tightly rolled up tissues behind the padding which vastly improved the sound. 
 
Does the original sound far off from the memory foam?

 

[SeEnCreaTive]

On the subject of stretching, my mom runs a business that had highland dance shoes as a product. The shoes need to be tight and conform to the foot, so she has leather stretcher.

Its a liquid you rub on. Only works on real leather, works like magic. Used it on my climbing shoes.

Now in wondering if it would work on leather pads to fit on the T50rp

 

[bitsnbytes]

Oil would help the leather stretch.
 
But I learned somewhere that not all oils (or liquids, waxes, etc) are good for leather as they may contain enzymes which break down the leather fibres.
 
I'm sure that conditioners for leather specialty shoes (which are expensive) would work well.

 

[elwappo99]

Hey all! 
 
I have a damaged T50rp driver. Is there anyone out there who would be willing to sell me a driver (or set)? I'd also be willing to purchase the whole headphone as well. Thanks
 
http://www.head-fi.org/t/751807/wtb-used-pair-of-fostex-t50rp-or-just-a-single-driver-from-them

 

[hemipowered007]

finally got around to emailing head-direct(hifiman) about obtaining an he series shell for transplant, lets see what we get..... Edit; they said they don't sell the frames.

 

[hemipowered007]

Question, say i make a custom baffle for the t50 driver to fit in my he4 frame, any good ideas for best ways to do this? I was thinking something along the lines of planned down denser wood or even maybe just go balsa because its easy. Also, if i can mount the driver onto it to fit in the he4 cups/frame, any ideas from there? I need to take both t50 and he4 apart and really look at how to go about this. I just dont know how to "dampen" the t50 driver in an open format. Im not very creative with this stuff and am no BMF or the likes, just want to try something out. 

 

[ZGLISZCZ]

  Question, say i make a custom baffle for the t50 driver to fit in my he4 frame, any good ideas for best ways to do this? I was thinking something along the lines of planned down denser wood or even maybe just go balsa because its easy. Also, if i can mount the driver onto it to fit in the he4 cups/frame, any ideas from there? I need to take both t50 and he4 apart and really look at how to go about this. I just dont know how to "dampen" the t50 driver in an open format. Im not very creative with this stuff and am no BMF or the likes, just want to try something out. 

Hi, I wouldnt use balsa, its too fragile, and sometimes almost "spongy". It should be pretty dense and strong. Lokesen used acrylic plate in his Koda's you might try some other stuff or just wood but it wont be that easy. Although wood looks great

 

[fleasbaby]

Question, say i make a custom baffle for the t50 driver to fit in my he4 frame, any good ideas for best ways to do this? I was thinking something along the lines of planned down denser wood or even maybe just go balsa because its easy. Also, if i can mount the driver onto it to fit in the he4 cups/frame, any ideas from there? I need to take both t50 and he4 apart and really look at how to go about this. I just dont know how to "dampen" the t50 driver in an open format. Im not very creative with this stuff and am no BMF or the likes, just want to try something out. 

I use MDF/compression board. It's rigid, has a teeny bit of mass and is easy to work...1/4 inch thickness works best for me.

 

[peterinvan]

Many thanks to BMF and all you guys for the detailed instructions and tips. I got my T50RP this week, and used materials I had at hand at my vacation home. Black modeling clay, adhesive rubber matting (brands unknown). The padding is from pillow stuffing. I left a small opening on the port (see photo). Used clay to seal all other openings at headphone jack and wire entry points. I did not have any felt at hand for the back of the transducer, but I attached the 18mm disc. I also own Audeze LCD2F, NAD HP50, Sure SRH840. The Shures came with spare pads, which I used on the Fostex.

The results are very satisfying. Warm and musical coloration, with tight, fast bass, clear mids and treble is clear without any harshness. Separation between instruments and voices is very good.

For portability on vacation, I brought the NAD HP50 along. They sound brighter, but harsher than the modded Foxtex. For listening pleasure I prefer the Fostex. Will compare to my other headphones when I get home.




Notice the surplus rubber matting in the headband

The cable jack seems like a weak link... Static with slight movement. I would like to use my balanced Audeze cable which I brought along for this purpose.

ANY TIPS ON INSTALLING 4 PIN MINI XLR SOCKETS?

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

Many thanks to BMF and all you guys for the detailed instructions and tips. I got my T50RP this week, and used materials I had at hand at my vacation home. Black modeling clay, adhesive rubber matting (brands unknown). The padding is from pillow stuffing. I left a small opening on the port (see photo). Used clay to seal all other openings at headphone jack and wire entry points. I did not have any felt at hand for the back of the transducer, but I attached the 18mm disc. I also own Audeze LCD2F, NAD HP50, Sure SRH840. The Shures came with spare pads, which I used on the Fostex.

The results are very satisfying. Warm and musical coloration, with tight, fast bass, clear mids and treble is clear without any harshness. Separation between instruments and voices is very good.

For portability on vacation, I brought the NAD HP50 along. They sound brighter, but harsher than the modded Foxtex. For listening pleasure I prefer the Fostex. Will compare to my other headphones when I get home.




Notice the surplus rubber matting in the headband

The cable jack seems like a weak link... Static with slight movement. I would like to use my balanced Audeze cable which I brought along for this purpose.

ANY TIPS ON INSTALLING 4 PIN MINI XLR SOCKETS?

 
Nice work. 
 
Remove the nut holding the jack. Tweezers may work. I used a set of pliers and twisted the jack from the inside of the cup until its side support tabs broke off, then removed the jack. Use a drill to make the hole the necessary size.
 
On the right cup, use a tiny drill bit to make a pilot hole and then use increasingly larger bits until the necessary diameter is achieved.
 
PM 'cCasper' for advice. He's done a bunch of cup mods.

 

[hemipowered007]

I use MDF/compression board. It's rigid, has a teeny bit of mass and is easy to work...1/4 inch thickness works best for me.

I use MDF/compression board. It's rigid, has a teeny bit of mass and is easy to work...1/4 inch thickness works best for me.

Thanks I forgot you had already done this! Brain has to much going on lately

 

[fleasbaby]

Thanks I forgot you had already done this! Brain has to much going on lately

LOL...I am dying to see more open mods myself. I can't wait to see what you get done!