Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW!
May 4, 2012 at 12:59 PM Post #8,056 of 11,345
So, would most people here say the HM5 pads are generally preferred over the Shure pads for replacement?
 
You guys could always stuff them with some more foam, if they feel permanently squished.
 
Are there other alternatives to the HM5 (that also don't break the bank)?
 
May 4, 2012 at 2:21 PM Post #8,058 of 11,345
Quote:
 
Are there other alternatives to the HM5 (that also don't break the bank)?

 
I am absolutely done with pleather.  Never again.  I personally recommend the new Shure srh1440/1840 velour pads.  They are ~$25 and are slightly better than stock.  But once stacked top of stock pads, they sound heavenly with New Stock (NS) T50rps.  I haven't tested with Old Stock (OS), as my OS are in pieces atm.  This setup significantly improves SQ,  bass, and soundstage, but since no one here has really played around with stacked pads a whole lot, current modifications will probably not "play nice" with stacked pads.
 
On the advise of BMF and MrSpeakers, I redid the seal (using double-sided mounting tape) between my srh1440/1840 pads and the stock pads.  
 

(Left: First Run; Right: Second Run)
 
 
Just as they predicted, immediately the amount of bass increased, significantly.  Bassheads rejoice, as it hits fairly hard.  Ultimately, because of the better seal, the efficiency increases as well as bass depth and amount.  For those following,  I was extremely satisfied with how the T50rp responded to the stacked pads on my first run where everything else was completely stock.  I cannot say the same about this setup.  I think it could be a step in the right direction used as a base for current mods.  As is, it is WAY bass forward for my tastes and no long has super tight bass using the "perfect seal".  This weekend, I plan on making minute "leaks" within the seal to see if the bass tightens back up.  If not, I will go back to the way it is in the first picture above.
 
Here are my impressions about the changes with the seal from picture 2:
 
Immediately I noticed the bass improved a ton.  Bass notes now hit hard and seem to give that almost subwoofer-like hit that people rave about IEMs.  The new seal seems to color the sound a bit more, though not negatively.  The brightness in the highs are back which causes some fatigue at higher volumes.  The mids seem to be a bit faster and more liquid, cleaner is not  the correct word, but slightly more sparkly.  I will say the biggest improvement over the original seal has to be that the new configuration sounds terrific at low volumes, where before, low volumes sounded "off".  To the negatives, the way it is now seems much more congested.  The soundstage is there, and well defined mostly, but if feels like a ton of people/instruments are squeezed into a tiny studio. Where as before, the soundstage was huge and lifelike (positionally as good as my ad700s).  This setup at mid-high volume is quite fatiguing.  That hump most refer to with the T50s seems to have come back with this seal.  Before, I could listen to hours before I needed a break, now it is closer to 1 hour.  Everything seemed a bit cleaner before, though seal#1 also did not sound that great at low volumes.  Bass now seems so heavy that I get a mild headache after testing out bassier bass-forward songs.
 
All and all, I think this is a step toward the right directions for my tastes.  I am hoping by creating a controlled leak in the seal, bass will once again tighten up and the sound stage will widen.  I will report back with results, I plan to create 1,2,3,4 leak seals in different configurations to see if I can get the results I am looking for.  If there is a way to get the sound tuned without ever opening the cups, it would make my day.  That is not to say that a fully seal pad stack should have inside modifications, but that I do not want to start all over with the nearly infinite combination of schemes just to tighten up the heavy bass.  
 
May 4, 2012 at 2:36 PM Post #8,059 of 11,345

Quote:
Awesome and neat job!!
 
However...that is NOT a suspension band.

 
Thanks, LFF.
 
I'm not sure what constitutes a suspension headband, but to me the main thing was that the mod lift the stock headband off of my noggin. It might not have been clear that there's a space between my egg and the rubber, and the leather strapping conforms nicely to my delicate and pointy head. 
 

 
May 4, 2012 at 3:05 PM Post #8,060 of 11,345
Quote:
 
Thanks, LFF.
 
I'm not sure what constitutes a suspension headband, but to me the main thing was that the mod lift the stock headband off of my noggin. It might not have been clear that there's a space between my egg and the rubber, and the leather strapping conforms nicely to my delicate and pointy head. 
 
 

looks nice and comfortable!  The only difference between a suspension headband and yours is that a suspension headband usually attaches to the headphone with some elastic/stretchy component.
 
May 4, 2012 at 3:30 PM Post #8,061 of 11,345
Quote:
looks nice and comfortable!  The only difference between a suspension headband and yours is that a suspension headband usually attaches to the headphone with some elastic/stretchy component.


Yup.
 
That headband is a support headband and a damn good implementation of one too. Looks very professional.
 
May 4, 2012 at 4:41 PM Post #8,062 of 11,345
Quote:
 
Thanks, LFF.
 
I'm not sure what constitutes a suspension headband, but to me the main thing was that the mod lift the stock headband off of my noggin. It might not have been clear that there's a space between my egg and the rubber, and the leather strapping conforms nicely to my delicate and pointy head. 
 

 
 
looks nice and comfortable!  The only difference between a suspension headband and yours is that a suspension headband usually attaches to the headphone with some elastic/stretchy component.

 
Details... details 
Either way, brilliant... I was planning on implementing snaps to make it easily removable.  I will be most certainly using your route! 
beerchug.gif

 
May 4, 2012 at 8:24 PM Post #8,063 of 11,345
Quote:
On the advise of BMF and MrSpeakers, I redid the seal (using double-sided mounting tape) between my srh1440/1840 pads and the stock pads.    

(Left: First Run; Right: Second Run)
 
 

I used that tape also at one point and found it to be tiresome to cut it out like that with tapered fit edges.  Ended up going to an art supply store and getting thinner double sided archival mounting tape, but in big 8 1/2 by 11 sheets( package of 3 sheets for ~$7 ) or something around that size, which allows cutting out a perfect seamless thinner ring, much easier and less time consuming, but if it's working for you that's all that matters.
 
May 4, 2012 at 8:58 PM Post #8,064 of 11,345
Quote:
 
I am absolutely done with pleather.  Never again.  I personally recommend the new Shure srh1440/1840 velour pads.  They are ~$25 and are slightly better than stock.  But once stacked top of stock pads, they sound heavenly with New Stock (NS) T50rps.  I haven't tested with Old Stock (OS), as my OS are in pieces atm.  This setup significantly improves SQ,  bass, and soundstage, but since no one here has really played around with stacked pads a whole lot, current modifications will probably not "play nice" with stacked pads.
 
On the advise of BMF and MrSpeakers, I redid the seal (using double-sided mounting tape) between my srh1440/1840 pads and the stock pads.  
 

(Left: First Run; Right: Second Run)
 
 
Just as they predicted, immediately the amount of bass increased, significantly.  Bassheads rejoice, as it hits fairly hard.  Ultimately, because of the better seal, the efficiency increases as well as bass depth and amount.  For those following,  I was extremely satisfied with how the T50rp responded to the stacked pads on my first run where everything else was completely stock.  I cannot say the same about this setup.  I think it could be a step in the right direction used as a base for current mods.  As is, it is WAY bass forward for my tastes and no long has super tight bass using the "perfect seal".  This weekend, I plan on making minute "leaks" within the seal to see if the bass tightens back up.  If not, I will go back to the way it is in the first picture above.
 
Here are my impressions about the changes with the seal from picture 2:
 
Immediately I noticed the bass improved a ton.  Bass notes now hit hard and seem to give that almost subwoofer-like hit that people rave about IEMs.  The new seal seems to color the sound a bit more, though not negatively.  The brightness in the highs are back which causes some fatigue at higher volumes.  The mids seem to be a bit faster and more liquid, cleaner is not  the correct word, but slightly more sparkly.  I will say the biggest improvement over the original seal has to be that the new configuration sounds terrific at low volumes, where before, low volumes sounded "off".  To the negatives, the way it is now seems much more congested.  The soundstage is there, and well defined mostly, but if feels like a ton of people/instruments are squeezed into a tiny studio. Where as before, the soundstage was huge and lifelike (positionally as good as my ad700s).  This setup at mid-high volume is quite fatiguing.  That hump most refer to with the T50s seems to have come back with this seal.  Before, I could listen to hours before I needed a break, now it is closer to 1 hour.  Everything seemed a bit cleaner before, though seal#1 also did not sound that great at low volumes.  Bass now seems so heavy that I get a mild headache after testing out bassier bass-forward songs.
 
All and all, I think this is a step toward the right directions for my tastes.  I am hoping by creating a controlled leak in the seal, bass will once again tighten up and the sound stage will widen.  I will report back with results, I plan to create 1,2,3,4 leak seals in different configurations to see if I can get the results I am looking for.  If there is a way to get the sound tuned without ever opening the cups, it would make my day.  That is not to say that a fully seal pad stack should have inside modifications, but that I do not want to start all over with the nearly infinite combination of schemes just to tighten up the heavy bass.  

Hey when you bought the SRH-1840 pads from bhphoto.com, does it come with one pad or 2?
 
May 4, 2012 at 9:39 PM Post #8,065 of 11,345
Hey when you bought the SRH-1840 pads from bhphoto.com, does it come with one pad or 2?
 

 
I did not purchase from BHPhoto because shipping was pretty steep. I bought mine from sweetwater (linked from amazon.com, they have it for $25 with free shipping and it arrives super fast. BHphoto also won't process over the weekends fyi.
 
May 4, 2012 at 10:11 PM Post #8,066 of 11,345
micmacmo,
Read into the BMF's files, and wondered.. Why you've decided to add an phantom power for the mic? Most common soundcards provide phantom power by themselves. Or is it for the cards that doesn't provide any?
 
May 4, 2012 at 10:35 PM Post #8,067 of 11,345
Quote:
micmacmo,
Read into the BMF's files, and wondered.. Why you've decided to add an phantom power for the mic? Most common soundcards provide phantom power by themselves. Or is it for the cards that doesn't provide any?

If your computer mic IN provides phantom power, you may not need an external phantom power supply. micmacmo and I use MacBook Pro that does not provide phantom power. So, yes, you are correct that the phantom power supply is necessary for cards that don't provide the low voltage power required for the Panasonic WM-61A electret mic.
 
May 4, 2012 at 10:41 PM Post #8,068 of 11,345
Quote:
If your computer mic IN provides phantom power, you may not need an external phantom power supply. micmacmo and I use MacBook Pro that does not provide phantom power. So, yes, you are correct that the phantom power supply is necessary for cards that don't provide the low voltage power required for the Panasonic WM-61A electret mic.

Hm, I've thought that all consumer equipment with mic in (not just line-in) provides phantom supply. Surprised.
Though reading through the docs, seems it may pose a problem when calibrating REW, as it seems to require stereo input, while mic in is mono. Haven't tried or even looked at it myself yet though, maybe there is a way to circumvent that.
 
May 5, 2012 at 1:50 PM Post #8,070 of 11,345
Quote:
does anyone have stock t50rp pads that they don't need and are willing to sell to me?

 
You can buy new pads online, but they are going to run you ~$22 a pad.  You can almost buy a T20rp for that!  I would highly suggest switching to a different pad unless you have a specific goal with the stock ones.  Just my 2 cents.  If my setup did not require padstacking, then I would be happy to ship you my old set of pads.  I just gave a friend the srh840 pads because I do not like the feel of pleather.
 
What happened to you old ones by chance?
 

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