- Joined
- Aug 18, 2007
- Posts
- 17,452
- Likes
- 839
Quote:
WOW! Now this is what I'm talking about. The sound is just what I was looking for. The upper mids filled in and details are much better. It makes me glad that I canceled my order for the $305 eCost D5000 on Monday and bought your D2000 Woodies with the money instead! You saved me $100 (after shipping). And, yes the wood cups are darker in real life than in photos - weird. I think I did an adequate job stuffing the pads, which you can see in the photos is all plumped up. Funny but this makes the headphones a little hotter on the ears now, as opposed to very loose and cooler. I also had the right ear-piece completely fall off the pivot as I was doing this, with the "infamous loose pivot screw" - so it was the best time for it to happen while I was doing surgery and NO parts got lost (cap, nut, washer, spring, etc).
Question #1: I did find that APS put some strips of fiberloft type material in my D2000 cups, and I might actually add a very tiny bit of that to the Mahogany cups in addition to the dynamat - just to get rid of that very last bit of lower midrange boost in female voices that didn't completely go away. Do you think that will help that frequency range, or should I stuff the pads more to get more distance between ear and driver?
Here is my dilemma that makes me hesitant to try adding fiberloft to the cups - the stock screws are only long enough to catch about three rows of threads into the wood. I pushed in as hard as I could with the screw driver to get the screw to bite into the wood, but I still partially stripped 2 of the 4 screw holes on the left, and 1 of the 4 on the right side . The right side install went better than left because I pre-drilled the holes a little deeper. The cups are still tight, because I stopped screwing as soon as I realized the screw was not going deeper or getting tighter. However, I cannot get the cups tight enough to sit completely flush with the rest of the phone (see the gap in one of the photos).
So, 5 of the 8 screws are in very tight, the other 3 not so much. I went to Home Depot and Ace hardware stores and after looking at 20,000 screws I came home with some #2 machine screws that are 3/4" instead of 1/2". However, the thread pitch is much tighter and the screw head is slightly larger than the screw holes in the driver mounting plate, and needs to be ground down by about 0.1 mm to pass through the hole so I can screw it into the wood. And, I don't know if that extra 1/4" in length will make the screws come out of the other side of the cup! Eyeballing it says I am safe, but I'd also have to drill the pilot holes deeper and not go all the way through to the other side. So, I have not tried this yet.
So, my next 2 questions are - If I take the cups off so I can add a tiny wisp of fiberloft inside the cup and repair the screw holes, should I use the longer screws or just fill in each of the screw holes with one drop of gorilla glue or insert a splinter of wood, so I can get a tight cup when I reinstall them? I could also re-drill (with a 1/16 bit) the 4 holes about 1/4" away from the old holes, but then the wood grain on the outside of the cups would not be centered over the cable like it is now. I would make a template of the 4 old holes first, so the new ones would be spaced perfectly. What would you recommend?
Let me know! Here are is Headphone ProN now:
APS V2 D2000 with Lawton Audio Woodies:
Boo Boo Kitty likes Headphones:
Boo Boo Kitty Wears Headphones:
D2000 stuffed earpad vs stock earpad - bottom veiw:
D2000 stuffed earpad vs stock earpad - side veiw:
Originally Posted by markl /img/forum/go_quote.gif HeadphoneAddict, Your best bet to make your D2000 sound more like the MD5000 would be to go with the mahogany cups that we damp for free. You'll get the same full-range rich, liquid tone, but because our cups are a bit larger than stock, you get a slightly more expansive soundstage over the stock cups. Cheers. |
WOW! Now this is what I'm talking about. The sound is just what I was looking for. The upper mids filled in and details are much better. It makes me glad that I canceled my order for the $305 eCost D5000 on Monday and bought your D2000 Woodies with the money instead! You saved me $100 (after shipping). And, yes the wood cups are darker in real life than in photos - weird. I think I did an adequate job stuffing the pads, which you can see in the photos is all plumped up. Funny but this makes the headphones a little hotter on the ears now, as opposed to very loose and cooler. I also had the right ear-piece completely fall off the pivot as I was doing this, with the "infamous loose pivot screw" - so it was the best time for it to happen while I was doing surgery and NO parts got lost (cap, nut, washer, spring, etc).
Question #1: I did find that APS put some strips of fiberloft type material in my D2000 cups, and I might actually add a very tiny bit of that to the Mahogany cups in addition to the dynamat - just to get rid of that very last bit of lower midrange boost in female voices that didn't completely go away. Do you think that will help that frequency range, or should I stuff the pads more to get more distance between ear and driver?
Here is my dilemma that makes me hesitant to try adding fiberloft to the cups - the stock screws are only long enough to catch about three rows of threads into the wood. I pushed in as hard as I could with the screw driver to get the screw to bite into the wood, but I still partially stripped 2 of the 4 screw holes on the left, and 1 of the 4 on the right side . The right side install went better than left because I pre-drilled the holes a little deeper. The cups are still tight, because I stopped screwing as soon as I realized the screw was not going deeper or getting tighter. However, I cannot get the cups tight enough to sit completely flush with the rest of the phone (see the gap in one of the photos).
So, 5 of the 8 screws are in very tight, the other 3 not so much. I went to Home Depot and Ace hardware stores and after looking at 20,000 screws I came home with some #2 machine screws that are 3/4" instead of 1/2". However, the thread pitch is much tighter and the screw head is slightly larger than the screw holes in the driver mounting plate, and needs to be ground down by about 0.1 mm to pass through the hole so I can screw it into the wood. And, I don't know if that extra 1/4" in length will make the screws come out of the other side of the cup! Eyeballing it says I am safe, but I'd also have to drill the pilot holes deeper and not go all the way through to the other side. So, I have not tried this yet.
So, my next 2 questions are - If I take the cups off so I can add a tiny wisp of fiberloft inside the cup and repair the screw holes, should I use the longer screws or just fill in each of the screw holes with one drop of gorilla glue or insert a splinter of wood, so I can get a tight cup when I reinstall them? I could also re-drill (with a 1/16 bit) the 4 holes about 1/4" away from the old holes, but then the wood grain on the outside of the cups would not be centered over the cable like it is now. I would make a template of the 4 old holes first, so the new ones would be spaced perfectly. What would you recommend?
Let me know! Here are is Headphone ProN now:
APS V2 D2000 with Lawton Audio Woodies:
Boo Boo Kitty likes Headphones:
Boo Boo Kitty Wears Headphones:
D2000 stuffed earpad vs stock earpad - bottom veiw:
D2000 stuffed earpad vs stock earpad - side veiw: