[HeadphoneAddict]

Well, The D2000 need the cable and wood cups for sure. the stock D7000 I heard at least need a cable.

Since I posted last on 11/15 here about my Wood cups, I have not felt the need to listen to my RS-1 or HD600 once, as I am enjoying my balanced woody D2000 too much. I've been meaning to pull out the APS V3 Edition 9 to compare, but I've been too lazy as well.

The only other full size I have been messing around with lately has been my ATH-ESW10 on my laptop rig, which I used to use my RS-1 with all the time. I gave up on the AD2000 I think, might sell those...

 

[JohnnyLightOn]

Gradofan, what characteristics of a source do you believe provide such good symmetry with the D5000 and X-Can V8?

My setup will be D5000 + X-Can V8, but my source must be an outboard DAC as opposed to a CDP, because I want to use a Squeezebox to stream FLAC files to its SPDIF coax output.

 

[Gradofan2]

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnnyLightOn /img/forum/go_quote.gif Gradofan, what characteristics of a source do you believe provide such good symmetry with the D5000 and X-Can V8? My setup will be D5000 + X-Can V8, but my source must be an outboard DAC as opposed to a CDP, because I want to use a Squeezebox to stream FLAC files to its SPDIF coax output.

I prefer the Marantz SA8001 SACD - because of its somewhat warmer, darker sound - the highs are tempered just a bit. The Monarchy M24 Tube DAC is also good with them - though its a bit brighter than the SA8001.

The D5000s can be a bit bright if your source is also pretty bright.

I'm totally inexperienced with computer based sources - so I couldn't offer any help there.

But... the X-CANv8 is a superb amp with the D5000s - I've not heard better - though, I'm sure some are just as good, or better (e.g. perhaps the Rudistors, etc.) However, its DAC is weak, so I wouldn't rely on it.

I guess... if I were using your set up and couldn't use a non USB DAC, or CDP - I'd likely use a good EQ, or sound processor to taylor the sound to my preferences. It may be difficult to find a USB DAC, that meets your preferences just perfectly. I'd suggest the new Marantz SA8003, which has USB input, but its reviews are not great - some say its not as warm and rich as the SA8001, which has no USB input.

 

[JohnnyLightOn]

Thanks for the comments. I understand now what you mean about the source matching the phones. I won't be using a USB DAC; the Squeezebox outputs only SPDIF. When I'm ready to buy a decent source, I can choose from any DAC that has a coax or Toslink input. By that time I'll know the D5000's sound signature well and will try to find a DAC that matches well with it. It makes total sense, I just wasn't grasping the concept before.

Based on a couple hours of listening to the D5000 with the X-Can V8, I agree with Markl's comments at the beginning of this thread about what areas the D5000 could improve upon. Still, I will give the break-in a chance to see how they develop before I do any mods. The first one that I'd like to try, at least right now, is to move the drivers away from my ear to make the sound less forward and open the soundstage a bit. But my non-audiophile, though wise hobby buddy suggested getting used to them first before doing any mods, which is what I'm doing now.

 

[Gradofan2]

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnnyLightOn /img/forum/go_quote.gif Thanks for the comments. I understand now what you mean about the source matching the phones. I won't be using a USB DAC; the Squeezebox outputs only SPDIF. When I'm ready to buy a decent source, I can choose from any DAC that has a coax or Toslink input. By that time I'll know the D5000's sound signature well and will try to find a DAC that matches well with it. It makes total sense, I just wasn't grasping the concept before. Based on a couple hours of listening to the D5000 with the X-Can V8, I agree with Markl's comments at the beginning of this thread about what areas the D5000 could improve upon. Still, I will give the break-in a chance to see how they develop before I do any mods. The first one that I'd like to try, at least right now, is to move the drivers away from my ear to make the sound less forward and open the soundstage a bit. But my non-audiophile, though wise hobby buddy suggested getting used to them first before doing any mods, which is what I'm doing now.

Absolutely... until you have about 400+ hrs on your D5000s - you will find the bass a bit sloppy and overpowering... and the highs may be a bit harsh... and the mids recessed. Their sound improves greatly as they approach 400+ hrs. Though... they have much better soundstage with burn-in... you may still want to do the pad mods to expand it... if you prefer a large soundstage. And... of course... the X-CANv8 does an excellent job of matching their impedance and current requirements - and cleaning up their sound, overall. You can tailor the sound a bit by swapping tubes.

 

[Wilashort]

Completely agree with your statements...
Quote:

Originally Posted by Gradofan2 /img/forum/go_quote.gif Absolutely... until you have about 400+ hrs on your D5000s - you will find the bass a bit sloppy and overpowering... and the highs may be a bit harsh... and the mids recessed. Their sound improves greatly as they approach 400+ hrs. Though... they have much better soundstage with burn-in[size=medium]...[/size] you may still want to do the pad mods to expand it... if you prefer a large soundstage. .

 

[Currawong]

I thought I might add, with my MD5000s on my head at this very moment, if I push them in closer to my ears, the sound of symbols jumps out VERY noticeably. Deep bass, such as when listening to The Crystal Method does overwhelm somewhat the rest of the sound, even with the mulga cups on, that damp the treble and bass slightly.

 

[suikodenii]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Currawong /img/forum/go_quote.gif I thought I might add, with my MD5000s on my head at this very moment, if I push them in closer to my ears, the sound of symbols jumps out VERY noticeably. Deep bass, such as when listening to The Crystal Method does overwhelm somewhat the rest of the sound, even with the mulga cups on, that damp the treble and bass slightly.

does that mean you would prefer them to be even more damped than what the mulgas as a hard density wood provide? have you added damping to them or do you run them without added damping?

Thanks!

 

[Currawong]

With the mulga cups (and probably partly due to my amp) the upper bass was a bit too prominent, so I put the fibreloft that Markl put in the cups in there (when I got them, it was when Markl was still putting fibreloft in the cups) and now the sound is about right. With the stock cups, I felt the bass and treble were a tiny bit too strong, but this is what gives the Denons their personality though.

 

[kwang411]

hello i'm about to try this mod on my d2000, but i can't find the specific Fiberloft Polyester Fiberfill that you mentioned anywhere in my area. Instead, I bought poly-fil from another brand (Soft Touch poly-fil supreme).. do you think this would work also?

also, when i took off the back cover, theres already some stuffings inside already. Is it like that for the d5000 as well? SHould i remove the stock paddings for the Dynamat? if i remove it would it change the bass quality?

thanks!

 

[mrarroyo]

Today, I sent my D5000 to Mark for his mods and a set of bubinga cups. Oh yeah baby!

Now comes the wait.

 

[Oogar]

Just finished modding mine. Included each step except the polyester fiberfill in the wooden cup (STEP 4). I am completely satisfied with the results! Absolutely amazing sound. The bass tightening definitely did wonders.

Im proud to say I own a pair of MD-5000!

 

[zaydon]

I just read all 45 pages of this this thread from start to finish in one sitting.
Ordering all the parts and am going to try it out myself.. just wanted to capture all the details. I figure if I fail miserably, its $150 to mr. lawton. No biggie. Doesn't seem like you can screw up too bad except stripping the wood cups on the d5000s.
I especially liked zmorris' mods as well for the 'head pad'. I kinda felt like he didn't get much credit for that and looks like no one else gave it a go. I have a really big head and I still feel like the denon's are moving around way too much.

 

[ztsen]

Hi, how many just did the below, do you satisfy only that, or still go full mod?
1. Do the ear pad taper mod. This should be mandatory no matter what. It is totally reversible if you don't like it.
2. Apply the circle of Dynamat (with center hole) to the smaller butt of the driver.
3. Apply the layer of Dynamat to the inside of the ear cup.

 

[HeadphoneAddict]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ztsen /img/forum/go_quote.gif Hi, how many just did the below, do you satisfy only that, or still go full mod? 1. Do the ear pad taper mod. This should be mandatory no matter what. It is totally reversible if you don't like it. 2. Apply the circle of Dynamat (with center hole) to the smaller butt of the driver. 3. Apply the layer of Dynamat to the inside of the ear cup.

I have D2000 with #1 and #3 plus wood cups and APS V2 cable. With the D2000 the mids are still slightly recessed vs D5000, as seen on the Headroom frequency response curves, but improved by the wood cups. I have stronger bass than an MD5000, but it seems decently controlled.