HE-500, LCD2, D5000, DT770, SR80, on a speaker amp (Emotiva mini-X A-100) Project
Mar 18, 2014 at 1:20 AM Post #3,361 of 3,819
   
It is a bright amp. That's why 
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well yeah, guess the HE-500 isnt a particularly bright headphone
 
just curious spurxiii: Does the Topping amp liven the HE-500 up more or does it have it's slightly laidback characteristic
does it make it any brighter?
 
Mar 18, 2014 at 1:34 AM Post #3,362 of 3,819
  well yeah, guess the HE-500 isnt a particularly bright headphone
 
just curious spurxiii: Does the Topping amp liven the HE-500 up more or does it have it's slightly laidback characteristic
does it make it any brighter?

It livens up the sound a bit more over the mini-x, makes it sound like it has a bit more zing. I think it does make it brighter over the mini-x because the highs sound a touch less rolled off. Mind you both sound more similar to each other than the AGD alone.
 
Mar 18, 2014 at 2:18 AM Post #3,363 of 3,819
I think an additional little bit of brightness in an amp works well with the HE500s which is a smidge dark.
 
Mar 21, 2014 at 10:54 AM Post #3,364 of 3,819
Am kinda in trouble here..

How do I avoid shorting when the terminal touches the side of the aluminium cabinet???

EDIOT: Lolz, ima just go with some duct tape.. But really bad design, anyway.
 
Mar 21, 2014 at 11:25 AM Post #3,365 of 3,819
There are plastic "ridges" around the terminals to keep them centered around the chassis hole but I put a 1/8" piece of shrink tube on the terminals to be sure. I wouldn't recommend duct tape but electrical tape would be ok but remember when you tighten the terminal nut the tape will get compressed so keep it thin.
 
Mar 21, 2014 at 11:41 AM Post #3,366 of 3,819
Duct tape is the only thing I have got at hand, and it isolates so I'll use it. Now, I realize the hole diameter should be like Ø12 mm or something. Haven't got a drill that big, so I'll go with tape to isolate and make a smaller hole diameter.
 
Mar 21, 2014 at 4:37 PM Post #3,367 of 3,819
Duct tape can get gunky and disintegrate over time, so be wary of that. Another cheapo "fix" would be to apply paint/laquer/nail-polish to the chassis where contact might occur.
 
But seriously, go get the drill bit or a file or whatever you need. The last thing you want is to short out the amp and let the magic smoke out.
 
Mar 21, 2014 at 7:58 PM Post #3,368 of 3,819
Been going backwards and forwrds with the HE500s with the TP60 vs Mini-X. They sound more similar now to when I first got the Mini-X about a week ago. The Mini-X still has slightly more low end albeit less controlled but the TP60 sounds more spacious and gives more clarity in the mids. The high on the TP60 still extends further and sounds less rolled off than the Mini-X. I would keep the Topping over the Emotiva. So a Mini-X will be up for sale soon.
 
Mar 22, 2014 at 2:14 PM Post #3,371 of 3,819
I finished my box. Must say I have respect for you DIY guys out there, it was pretty darn tough and took many hours. It's my first project and the box worked in the end, though I had to do some troubleshooting and found some wires I had to resolder. The job ain't pretty!
 
Must say I have learned lots of stuff that I'd do better if doing it again.. Using colored wires isn't a bad idea for example.. And it is a pretty bad idea not to get a switch made for soldering on, I bought a switch made for PCBs, lolz. Damn, that was really annoying, almost impossible to solder the 2 ground wires on the same pin in the middle of everything.. Not recommended.
 
Can't say I'm too proud of the end result, but I suppose it was good for learning the basics.
 
Mar 22, 2014 at 2:23 PM Post #3,372 of 3,819
  almost impossible to solder the 2 ground wires on the same pin in the middle of everything.. Not recommended.
 

 
next time: twist the wires together, tin them, then solder that single piece to the pin.
 
Mar 22, 2014 at 2:51 PM Post #3,373 of 3,819

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