[jonathan c]

Weekend project…

... it shouldn't take two days! ...

 

[plakat]

... it shouldn't take two days! ...

Not even with the full protocol involving bows against Brooklyn?

 

[ekolite]

I am missing that Grado sound. I have been off the Grado train for months. I thought I had misplaced my RS1-E's, but low and behold they were tucked away in my closet. I also have a pair of Hemps, old cable model that has a faulty cable and makes no sound out of one of the drivers. I am going to send both pair to Grado for repairs. Its been far too long. But one thing has occured to me. For the life of me I don't think I can put it into words what I miss about their sound. Indescribable comes to mind. Hope all you guys and gals had nice holidays! I will let you guys know my impressions once I get them back. I sort of remember the sound and sort of not. Oh, bu the way.. the RS1E'S cable plug wore off within 6 months of owning from a mod I did at moon audio. At least stock Grado lasted me over 2 years.
Yeah so anyways guys, sorry if I came across a bit rude before I exited from head fi a while back. I was very frustrated with my second set of Grados cable going bad.
They are definetly worth the trouble getting fixed. And definitely need to invest in a couple of dedicated stands. Then I should be set for a real long while.

The thing I remember about Grados sound the most is that the soundstage wasn't ultrawide or anything but it felt that way regardless. And played a euphoric midrange while also out of the head. Very unique.

 

[joseph69]

I use a small flathead screwdriver to pry apart the plastic Grado rod/blocks.

[There is also a video on the Nyczaj website showing the steps.]

Jonathan--I don't quite understand what you mean by "pry apart the Grado rod/blocks". Do you literally mean splitting the rod blocks in two halves to remove them from the headband? If yes--I've always gently rocked my rod blocks side to side until they are lose enough to pull them off.

I'm under the assumption that @Redd House is referring to removing the plastic gimbals from the cups themselves. If my assumption is correct--all that needs to be done is laying the grill side of the cups down flat with the drivers facing up and gently spreading the plastic gimbals with your fingers enough until the pins are clearing the cups.

 

[nierika]

I got a small bottle of the Feed N Wax for my RS-2x. I think I probably need to do this, because I had a pair of HF-2s and one of the earcups cracked after a few years. Im in Omaha and it gets dry as F and cold in the winter here (in fact, low in the negative teens all weekend). Chiefs vs. Dolphins is going to be miserable - everyone is probably lucky Green Bay doesnt have a home game.

So am I applying this to the entire wood surface (including the lettering), or just the middle part? Do I let it sit for some time before wiping it down well?

I'm sure there are instructions on the bottle, but I wanted to know if someone has come up with a good Grado-specific technique.

 

[Guts390]

For me it’s just maintenance, keeping them in good condition in my rather dry apartment.

I’m not even sure it helps much in that regard, but I do find some joy in the thought of caring for them. I just really Iike them.

I see. Good to know. Thank you!

 

[daveya]

Jonathan--I don't quite understand what you mean by "pry apart the Grado rod/blocks". Do you literally mean splitting the rod blocks in two halves to remove them from the headband? If yes--I've always gently rocked my rod blocks side to side until they are lose enough to pull them off.

I'm under the assumption that @Redd House is referring to removing the plastic gimbals from the cups themselves. If my assumption is correct--all that needs to be done is laying the grill side of the cups down flat with the drivers facing up and gently spreading the plastic gimbals with your fingers enough until the pins are clearing the cups.

When I installed mine, the existing road blocks can off easily, probably 5 mins to remove

 

[daveya]

I'm going to use linseed oil so they smell of old cricket bats

 

[alexdemaet]

Lol tbh this is working surprisingly well for how simple this trick is. I do lose a bit of bass, and there's a kind of hollow feeling, but I guess this is the next best thing.


It's hard find that right balance. The headphone starts to slip on my head once I start loosening the headband. Maybe it's my head shape...


I just now realized Hemp V2 is not listed on Grado's website. In Japan, the 'original' Hemp was released in Sep 2020, and there's an Aug 2021 revision which is officially advertised as 'ver. 2'.
The housing is slightly larger, and notably the cable is now super annealed copper 8-conductor cable. I'm not sure if it's identical to SR325X, though. The headband has white stitching instead of blue. The driver is the same as the 'original' Hemp (not the X driver), or at least that's what I'm told.
According to a shop's review, it 'sounds a bit cleaner than the original Hemp'.

Is the Hemp without the nex 'X' cable but with a white stitched headband also a Hemp V2?

 

[alexdemaet]

I have the GS3000x. I've been looking for a detachable cable mod. I've reached out to several companies asking about the process. I received this response from Moon Audio (I bought my RS1e from them with a detachable cable mod, and they do a great job!). Here's the response from them: This one we can only hard wire. Grado made the thickness of the 2000 and 3000 cups much thicker on these models. Thus there is no way to anchor the connectors int he cup.

Thoughts?

Leo

Probably it is possible to mod the original headphone cable with a Beautifulaudio adapter https://www.beautifulaudio.biz/products/grado-cable-adaptor-small

 

[HWB3]

I got a small bottle of the Feed N Wax for my RS-2x. I think I probably need to do this, because I had a pair of HF-2s and one of the earcups cracked after a few years. Im in Omaha and it gets dry as F and cold in the winter here (in fact, low in the negative teens all weekend). Chiefs vs. Dolphins is going to be miserable - everyone is probably lucky Green Bay doesnt have a home game.

So am I applying this to the entire wood surface (including the lettering), or just the middle part? Do I let it sit for some time before wiping it down well?

I'm sure there are instructions on the bottle, but I wanted to know if someone has come up with a good Grado-specific technique.

Put it on the wooden surfaces, let it sit for a bit and then wipe it off.

 

[Redd House]

Jonathan--I don't quite understand what you mean by "pry apart the Grado rod/blocks". Do you literally mean splitting the rod blocks in two halves to remove them from the headband? If yes--I've always gently rocked my rod blocks side to side until they are lose enough to pull them off.

I'm under the assumption that @Redd House is referring to removing the plastic gimbals from the cups themselves. If my assumption is correct--all that needs to be done is laying the grill side of the cups down flat with the drivers facing up and gently spreading the plastic gimbals with your fingers enough until the pins are clearing the cups.

Yes, I mean separating the cups from the gimble pins on my RS1x. I didn't know they're plastic gimbals and assumed they're aluminum. I'll try removing them as you described, thank you!

 

[plakat]

Yes, I mean separating the cups from the gimble pins on my RS1x. I didn't know they're plastic gimbals and assumed they're aluminum. I'll try removing them as you described, thank you!

In the RS1x those parts are actually metal… I don’t have one, so I can’t advise on how to separate the cups from the gimbals.

Asking myself if I need to do that on my GH2 for applying the wax all around… at least one case where is be happy that it only has plastic gimbals

 

[Redd House]

In the RS1x those parts are actually metal… I don’t have one, so I can’t advise on how to separate the cups from the gimbals.

Asking myself if I need to do that on my GH2 for applying the wax all around… at least one case where is be happy that it only has plastic gimbals

Well I have the XL full round Nyczaj gimbles and blocks on order so if I mess up the pins getting the old ones off, so be it. Maybe I'll contact Rich Grado and see what he says...

ETA: Just saw this on the Nyczaj web site -

How to disassemble metal gimbals?​

To do this you'll need small pliers and a bit of rubber or a heatshrink.*


a) Put the rubber/heatshrink around the head of the gimbal pin.

b) Grab it firmly with pliers and unscrew.

*Pictures in these section are at courtesy of ChijiroKuro from Head-Fi forums, thanks!

 

[joseph69]

Yes, I mean separating the cups from the gimble pins on my RS1x. I didn't know they're plastic gimbals and assumed they're aluminum. I'll try removing them as you described, thank you!

Apologies.
I either overlooked the fact that you had the RS1x or I didn't know.
As already mentioned (and already done) they're metal--not plastic, obviously.