[rovopio]

First off, please don't quote this post, as I'm going to edit it as soon as one of you take the item.
 
Hi everybody,
 

 
I'm checking back in to notify people here that I'm going to let go of a grado rs2e. I had it for less than 2 weeks, very little play time, and then I had it shipped away. It came back to me in several months or so later, unexpectedly.
 
Since I only had it for 2 weeks at first, the deterioration that comes from me using it in that initial 2 weeks, should be very little or close to non-existent.
It should have been a mint condition item. However, the condition when I got it out of the box, it is already in 7/10 condition.
I'll put the pics and details of conditions on the FS thread later of course (and edit this thread accordingly).
 
I'm going to say it like it is.
 
The point of me putting this post here is that I feel if I advertise that rs2e here first, I'm hoping I might be able to sell it quicker.
But regardless of the above personal gain for me, there is a small, very small, part of me that feels like, "it would be nice if the item change hands to the regulars of Grado Fan Club".
 
I guess it would be nice if any of you in this thread that likes Grado to a big extent, would be able to derived enjoyment from this particular pair as due to one thing and another, I wasn't able to derived any enjoyment from it. I sincerely hope that anybody who take this off my hand would derived a lot of enjoyment from it.
 
Oh, I'm not based in the US (many of you already know this). For you guys, we'll split the shipping 50-50, so that would be ~$20 each for USA people, and ~$25 each for European people.
 

 
Here are the pictures :
 
http://imgur.com/a/DgyYV

 

If you see the fourth image, that's where the 7/10 condition comes from. The glue that holds the cable inside the chamber doesn't stick, so the cable can goes in to inside the chamber (right cup). Also, there is a zip tie mark on that right cable, again since the glue doesn't stick.
 

 
I'll leave this post until Monday, then I'll post it publicly, probably ebay, still not sure where.
 
Cheers, and I hope every regulars here have a great day and rest of the week.

 

[CH23]

  First off, please don't quote this post.

i'm sorry i failed you
 
 

 The cable can go into inside the chamber (right cup).

 
i don't believe this is an issue. the same is possible with my PS1000 and my (buttoned) RS1. there is a zip tie on the inside which should keep the tension off of the drivers and soldering points.

 

[DavidA]

@rovopio, i just checked my RS2e and there is no glue where the cables come out of the cups and its quite easy to push the cables in and IIRC it was the same with all my Grado headphones that there is a cable tie to keep the stress of the solder joint.

 

[rovopio]

Hi everybody!
 
Quote:

  i'm sorry i failed you
 

 
"You have failed the city."
 
 
Quote:

  @rovopio, i just checked my RS2e and there is no glue where the cables come out of the cups and its quite easy to push the cables in and IIRC it was the same with all my Grado headphones that there is a cable tie to keep the stress of the solder joint.

 
Well, that's good if everybody's headphones are like that, so it may not 7/10 after all.
Well then future owner of this lonely rs2e, what are you waiting for, take this off my hand.
 
1) Anyway, to further elaborate, the right cup cable can go inside the chamber as long as I the chamber still has room. So it can goes in up to 3-5 inches. Anyway, it can goes in a lot, as long as there is still room inside the chamber.
 
The left cup can only goes in for like, a little. I think what you, joseph, and ch23 are describing, are the left part, there everybody else's grado headphones can move up and down just a bit. Yeah the left cup is normal in that it can move up and down a bit. The right cup, I can hide the cable all the way if I force it to.
 
But if anybody that takes this thinks that it's normal, then well, that's great too.
 
2) On the glue part, huhhhhhhh. I think you may be more correct than I am wrong. So there is a lump on mine on each of the chamber, right above that cable ties we're talking about. I always thought that lump are lump of glues. What are those anyway? lol.
 
3) Oh, while it's not that clear on the picture, on the right cable, there is a cable ties mark. Basically, out of the box, the cable tie on the right part aren't tight, so I guess along the way, before it reaches me, the cable got slightly pulled, and since the right chamber cable tie aren't tight, the cable got pulled and I can see the zip tie mark being on the outside, right under the wood.

 

[CH23]

@rovopio here's a pic of the cable with dot of glue+cable tie, which is normally on the inside of my PS1000:

 

[joseph69]

 

I would think that the glue eliminates the noise from the cables/cups coming in contact, which some have complained about when moving their head.
 
I've taken apart 3 (i) series Grados…this is the first I've seen the glue.

 

[CH23]

  I would think that the glue eliminates the noise from the cables/cups coming in contact, which some have complained about when moving their head.
 
I've taken apart 3 (i) series Grados…this is the first I've seen the glue.

maybe they stopped doing it, or don't do it on the lower end models?

my PS1000 is #157, so it's quite old...same for my RS1, which is a classic b(if i recall correctly. square rods, button, in white cardboard box)

 

[joseph69]

  maybe they stopped doing it, or don't do it on the lower end models?

my PS1000 is #157, so it's quite old...same for my RS1, which is a classic b(if i recall correctly. square rods, button, in white cardboard box)

I don't know? I opened up 2 80i's and 1 325is and I forgot about an MS1i as well, and none of them had glue on the cable. I thought it was something new if anything.

 

[DavidA]

Didn't see the glue on 225i, 80i, or 60i, there was glue on the cable tie on a friends RS2e that I re-cabled for her there was a dab on my 225e, just checked my RS2e and there is a small dab of glue on the cable tie also.
 
Maybe the newer "e" series have the dab of glue?

 

[GreenBow]

I just EQ'd my SR225e in relation with the frequency graph on them. Meaning I dropped the hotter treble stuff in the JRiver EQ function.
 
I pulled:
3KHz down by 3.9dB.
6KHz down by 3.1dB.
12KHz down by 3.5dB.
 
That's going by this graph.

 
 
Good grief!
 
I didn't expect it. They sound perfect. Yeah still a little trebly - just maybe. However the bass notes are in tandem fully. I am aware all the time of them. I don't need to focus to hear the bass notes. Whereas if I put the EQ flat again, the bass fades by the fact that the treble notes come forward.
 
I guess this is what the effect of modding the SR225e and other Prestige Series would have. I recall @DavidA saying the bass got better and the treble sweeter with his SR225e when Dynomat and sorthobane was used. ....

I am going to have to do it. (Or at least, the tape-mod.)
 
I mean I always had my mind focused on the Grado with a proper and more equal bass presence. Like the PS500/e, and maybe the GH-1. (I have always even shied just minutely fractionally away though from them. Now they are an option.)

 

[DavidA]

@GreenBow, got my sr-225e to have more bass than my friends ps500 by opening 2 additional vent holes, dynamat in the outer cup and also a small piece on the back of the driver (works a little better than the sorbothane) and a felt dot on the back of the button.  You might also want to try some cheap G pads (Earzonk or from ebay) as it provides a little more bass, better comfort and a bit more sound stage over the stock L pads.

 

[GreenBow]

  @GreenBow, got my sr-225e to have more bass than my friends ps500 by opening 2 additional vent holes, dynamat in the outer cup and also a small piece on the back of the driver (works a little better than the sorbothane) and a felt dot on the back of the button.  You might also want to try some cheap G pads (Earzonk or from ebay) as it provides a little more bass, better comfort and a bit more sound stage over the stock L pads.

 
I have got to sort this. I can't stop listening.
 
Just a note though: I thought G-pads made less bass. However for me there is no question I would keep the L-cushion. I have found them endlessly comfortable and much cooler than the S-cushions on the SR60e/80e/125e. That's actually why I am not considering the S-cushions for these.
 
I might think again about the TTVJ flat pads though. I think they might stay cooler than the normal S-cushions. (Yet not as cool as the L-cushions.) Comfort-wise they might be as comfy as the L-cushion to me. (That's with there being no cushion over the white grill, leaving room for earlobes.)
 
Honestly I find the L-cushion just perfect. I even wrote a thread about it. It was a bit long-winded but I think I got the point over. (With my effort straining to tell other sufferers.) http://www.head-fi.org/t/754373/grado-l-cushion-comfort-for-sr225-ps500#post_12461917

 

[stacker45]

   
 
Well, that's good if everybody's headphones are like that, so it may not 7/10 after all.
Well then future owner of this lonely rs2e, what are you waiting for, take this off my hand.
 
1) Anyway, to further elaborate, the right cup cable can go inside the chamber as long as I the chamber still has room. So it can goes in up to 3-5 inches. Anyway, it can goes in a lot, as long as there is still room inside the chamber.
 
The left cup can only goes in for like, a little. I think what you, joseph, and ch23 are describing, are the left part, there everybody else's grado headphones can move up and down just a bit. Yeah the left cup is normal in that it can move up and down a bit. The right cup, I can hide the cable all the way if I force it to.
 
But if anybody that takes this thinks that it's normal, then well, that's great too.
 
2) On the glue part, huhhhhhhh. I think you may be more correct than I am wrong. So there is a lump on mine on each of the chamber, right above that cable ties we're talking about. I always thought that lump are lump of glues. What are those anyway? lol.
 
3) Oh, while it's not that clear on the picture, on the right cable, there is a cable ties mark. Basically, out of the box, the cable tie on the right part aren't tight, so I guess along the way, before it reaches me, the cable got slightly pulled, and since the right chamber cable tie aren't tight, the cable got pulled and I can see the zip tie mark being on the outside, right under the wood.

 
I just phoned Grado regarding this matter, and you're going to laugh when you read this, well, maybe not you, but I did, in fact, I'm having a hard time writing this, because I can't stop laughing!.
 
They explained to me that the reason why you have RS2e that are a 7/10, is because the person resonsable for quality control was on long term sick leave, and the employe that was replacing her thought that headphones that are say, 7/10 coud be shipped to cutomers.
 
Grado assured me that they had a talk with the employe, and that  this matter has been resolved. They've also told me that if you want to send them your 7/10 pair of RS2e, they'll gladly exchange them for a new pair that meets they're usual standard rating of 6/10 or less.
 
This explains why you have recieved such a nice RS2e specimen!

 
Seriously though!, I had a 1/2 scratch on the left earcupof my GS1000. The Grado rep agreed to meet me at my dealer's and brought to brand new pair of GS1000 for me to choose from.  Well, would you believe, that those two pairs actually had even wost defect than mine!

  

 

[ruhenheiM]

   
I just phoned Grado regarding this matter, and you're going to laugh when you read this, well, maybe not you, but I did, in fact, I'm having a hard time writing this, because I can't stop laughing!.
 
They explained to me that the reason why you have RS2e that are a 7/10, is because the person resonsable for quality control was on long term sick leave, and the employe that was replacing her thought that headphones that are say, 7/10 coud be shipped to cutomers.
 
Grado assured me that they had a talk with the employe, and that  this matter has been resolved. They've also told me that if you want to send them your 7/10 pair of RS2e, they'll gladly exchange them for a new pair that meets they're usual standard rating of 6/10 or less.
 
This explains why you have recieved such a nice RS2e specimen!

 
Seriously though!, I had a 1/2 scratch on the left earcupof my GS1000. The Grado rep agreed to meet me at my dealer's and brought to brand new pair of GS1000 for me to choose from.  Well, would you believe, that those two pairs actually had even wost defect than mine!

  

classic grado

 

[DavidA]

   
I have got to sort this. I can't stop listening.
 
Just a note though: I thought G-pads made less bass. However for me there is no question I would keep the L-cushion. I have found them endlessly comfortable and much cooler than the S-cushions on the SR60e/80e/125e. That's actually why I am not considering the S-cushions for these.
 
I might think again about the TTVJ flat pads though. I think they might stay cooler than the normal S-cushions. (Yet not as cool as the L-cushions.) Comfort-wise they might be as comfy as the L-cushion to me. (That's with there being no cushion over the white grill, leaving room for earlobes.)
 
Honestly I find the L-cushion just perfect. I even wrote a thread about it. It was a bit long-winded but I think I got the point over. (With my effort straining to tell other sufferers.) http://www.head-fi.org/t/754373/grado-l-cushion-comfort-for-sr225-ps500#post_12461917

The G pads that I use are the really cheap ones ($5 to $6 includes shipping) from ebay, not the 3 layer construction ones which cost $40+.  One reason the bass is a bit better is the foam is a not as open as the real Gardo G or L pads middle section which doesn't let the bass leak out, this is why some use tape or glue for Hifiman and Fostex ear pads, to get a good seal so the bass doesn't leak out.
 
I can't used the S pads, they put pressure in the wrong places for me and the L pads are a bit more comfortable but still not like the G pads which have the edges of the pad against my head and there is very little pressure anywhere on my ears.
 
And I do remember reading your post but for me the L and S just don't work.