[TheRealDz]

I would go 60x personally... I liked the 60e better than the 80e and there is a review saying 80x and 60x are very similar...

Thanks for the advice, everyone.

Predictably, since I love my RS1x so much, I must have a beater that I can use when out and about.

It sounds like I am best off just snagging an SR60x...

 

[TheRealDz]

My bad, sorry I tend to get emotional with Sennheiser

No problem - that is what I get for posting while drifting off to sleep

 

[majo123]

Not sure what you mean... most Grados leak sound... it's like complaining Neil Young's voice is flat

I mean compared too.
hemp, 325x, ps500e, rs2e, 325e and any other open back headphone I have ever owned! They leak way more sound!
The other grado are relatively quiet in comparison! It's like having a bad radio on .. Neil youngs voice is flat but I'm sure there's possibly flatter out there

They do sound good though.

 

[rasmushorn]

If it`s so good. why Grado stop making them?

Is the RA-1 really THAT good???
Years ago they were never really popular and people did not regard them much. Most people found them overpriced and little value for the money. But who knows if there is a new and better synergy with later Grado-models?

 

[rasmushorn]

Thanks for the advice, everyone.

Predictably, since I love my RS1x so much, I must have a beater that I can use when out and about.

It sounds like I am best off just snagging an SR60x...

I would go with SR80e if I was you.
If you are used to the brighter RS-1X the 60x will be much darker and the difference in character might not be what you are looking for.

I compared the SR225e with the new SR225x a while ago and I liked the older model more than the new darker sound from the x-driver series. But that is probably only because I prefer a brighter signature in general. But I do not know how bright those RS-1X are compared to the rest of their models.

 

[HiGHFLYiN9]

Wood... everywhere!

 

[Zachik]

None of the copies I heard/built sound remotely the same (I know, magic)

I wonder if the reason was magic, or just components used...
I have built several DIY amps (mostly from kits), none were my design, and when ordering the parts - there are many choices for capacitors, resistors, etc. Threads are full with people who tried various resistors and/or caps on the same circuit - and they claim to hear BIG sound differences!
So... my guess is most copies used cheaper parts, as the price for a capacitor (for example) could vary from 15 cents to say $10 for the same "specs" (voltage and capacitance rating) but the materials are totally different (and so is supposedly the sound).

Just my 2 cents

 

[carboncopy]

I wonder if the reason was magic, or just components used...
I have built several DIY amps (mostly from kits), none were my design, and when ordering the parts - there are many choices for capacitors, resistors, etc. Threads are full with people who tried various resistors and/or caps on the same circuit - and they claim to hear BIG sound differences!
So... my guess is most copies used cheaper parts, as the price for a capacitor (for example) could vary from 15 cents to say $10 for the same "specs" (voltage and capacitance rating) but the materials are totally different (and so is supposedly the sound).

Just my 2 cents

Or...they went even further and God forbid they listened to a lot of compoment variations and choose the ones which they found the best. Not the most expensive, the best for the sound.

What I see often is, that the inside of the equipment is like a showroom for pricey parts, actually marketing tool. It is much-much easier to order bling-bling parts and populate a circuit with them as opposed to take a time and listen, listen, listen...lot of competence is needed there, a vision...by some companies you pay for the time of the developer, the expertise, with others you buy the casework/parts/marketing whatever. If I have to choose from this two I always choose the first. Or there is the third category, where both is there but it is bloody expensive. (For example my Aries Cerat Heléne DAC).

 

[Zachik]

Or...they went even further and God forbid they listened to a lot of compoment variations and choose the ones which they found the best. Not the most expensive, the best for the sound.

What I see often is, that the inside of the equipment is like a showroom for pricey parts, actually marketing tool. It is much-much easier to order bling-bling parts and populate a circuit with them as opposed to take a time and listen, listen, listen...lot of competence is needed there, a vision...by some companies you pay for the time of the developer, the expertise, with others you buy the casework/parts/marketing whatever. If I have to choose from this two I always choose the first. Or there is the third category, where both is there but it is bloody expensive. (For example my Aries Cerat Heléne DAC).

All good points!
Can you actually see the components used in the RA-1 without destroying it?! My unit was bought couple days ago, but the seller has not even confirmed that fact, so not even sure when it will be shipped... Patience is NOT my strong suit...

 

[carboncopy]

All good points!
Can you actually see the components used in the RA-1 without destroying it?! My unit was bought couple days ago, but the seller has not even confirmed that fact, so not even sure when it will be shipped... Patience is NOT my strong suit...

I can again copy my post here from a couple of weeks back...not a lot of components and even they are a bit "invisible".

RA-1 impressions

 

[Zachik]

I can again copy my post here from a couple of weeks back...not a lot of components and even they are a bit "invisible".

RA-1 impressions

Hmmm.... I added text in RED, and the only components I see are 2 caps and 1 resistor!!
I wonder if there is anything hidden under the caps

 

[carboncopy]

Hmmm.... I added text in RED, and the only components I see are 2 caps and 1 resistor!!
I wonder if there is anything hidden under the caps

Of course there are more. Under the caps are 2 ICs, 4 reisitors and two small caps. The visible big caps are actually input caps and not PSU. (No need because of the battery supply). The small caps are the local shunt caps. The resistors set the amplification. You can find the circuit in the net real fast.

 

[TheRealDz]

I would go with SR80e if I was you.
If you are used to the brighter RS-1X the 60x will be much darker and the difference in character might not be what you are looking for.

I compared the SR225e with the new SR225x a while ago and I liked the older model more than the new darker sound from the x-driver series. But that is probably only because I prefer a brighter signature in general. But I do not know how bright those RS-1X are compared to the rest of their models.

Good to know. I have never heard any e-series cans (or i for that matter). I prefer darker, so it sounds like x is the way to go for me. Thank you!

 

[majo123]

Good to know. I have never heard any e-series cans (or i for that matter). I prefer darker, so it sounds like x is the way to go for me. Thank you!

I have 3 e series and 2 x series and overall for treble response I prefer the 2 X series but it does depend on pairings...
I much prefer the 325x over 325e but I also Iike the ps500e very much.

 

[Stevko]

Is the RA-1 really THAT good???
Years ago they were never really popular and people did not regard them much. Most people found them overpriced and little value for the money. But who knows if there is a new and better synergy with later Grado-models?

Never heard it self