[majo123]

Hi gang,

Can you recommend someone who can modify my GH1? I'd like to have it modded to have 3.5mm female connectors to do away with the permanently attached cable.

Can I ask is this for different termination at source end or just because you don't like the cable?

 

[majo123]

Hi gang,

Can you recommend someone who can modify my GH1? I'd like to have it modded to have 3.5mm female connectors to do away with the permanently attached cable.

Reason I ask is because I'm not certain how much room is inside the cups between shell and drivers and infact a good question to answer for myself as I'm definitely doing some modding over the next few months but I have other options if I want to swap out terminals at source end

 

[majo123]

Easily swap

 

[Kramertc]

Can I ask is this for different termination at source end or just because you don't like the cable?

I just don't like the heavy cable. I'm tired of it.

 

[majo123]

I just don't like the heavy cable. I'm tired of it.

Ok no worries I do understand

 

[majo123]

I just don't like the heavy cable. I'm tired of it.

I am going to swap out my 80x cable for sure as I'm going to try and make them more portable, but I was going to use mmcx because I felt 3.5 mm maybe too long and intrusive on the 80x and maybe all grado??? But I have no experience on modding grado..
Im uncertain about mmcx on bigger grado because you may need some quite thick cable to keep the sonics up to the same level and maybe even on the 80x, and was worried about the stiffness and pull on the mmcx with the type of cable on the new X series ...so I will try and use slightly thinner on the 80x and definitely more flexible.
I want my 80x to be more portable on the go not so worried about the others.

 

[Kramertc]

I "liberated" an Alessandro MS1 a few years back to transfer it to an aftermarket wood cup. I wouldn't dare do it on a Grado woodie. I rather pay someone who's experienced.

 

[majo123]

I "liberated" an Alessandro MS1 a few years back to transfer it to an aftermarket wood cup. I wouldn't dare do it on a Grado woodie. I rather pay someone who's experienced.

Experienced in what way?

 

[Kramertc]

Experienced in what way?

Doing the mod I'm after. Do they not exist? Sorry if my questions are so basic. I'm totally out of the loop as you can see.

 

[majo123]

Doing the mod I'm after. Do they not exist? Sorry if my questions are so basic. I'm totally out of the loop as you can see.

Ahhh I see apologies I miss interpreted , yes there are guys around who could probably do it.

 

[Gippy]

I've been using the original uDAC v1 for about 12 years with a pair SR80i and Schiit LYR 2 with stock tubes. It's a combination I've been very happy with for a lot of my listening. I recently picked up a pair of RS1x and the LYR2 can power them with ease. My only doubt at the moment is if the uDAC v1 would be holding back the system in anyway now as the DAC technology is fairly old at this point, while entry level I've not previously felt the need to upgrade.

I own the uDAC v1 (but not the later revisions) so I can answer the question for you.

The uDAC v1 isn't neutral. It's the DAC that counters the claim that "all DACs are the same". There's a mid boost, and if you're used to the uDAC v1, you might actually think a newer, better-spec'd DAC will sound worse. Back in the day, it was uDAC v1 vs. FiiO E10, and the E10 to me was dull compared to the uDAC v1. (The E17 was much better and I still use it to this day.) I liked the uDAC v1 sound enough to upgrade to the HDP, which was my workhorse for many years. NuForce tuned their early DACs to a specific, brighter signature, even though that would make them measure worse. The HDP's downfall for me was that I couldn't get that last bit of hissing removed at higher volumes.

 

[TheRealDz]

Good news and bad news:

Good: my RS1x is breaking in nicely. Why didn't you all tell me that they are really good at separation, soundstaging, and spaciousness?

Bad: they are literally breaking. For those of you who have the tri-wood RS1x, are cracks in the cocobolo layer to be expected? In addition to the cracks that go all the way through on the right driver pictured below, the left side has multiple hairline cracks.

 

[majo123]

Good news and bad news:

Good: my RS1x is breaking in nicely. Why didn't you all tell me that they are really good at separation, soundstaging, and spaciousness?

Bad: they are literally breaking. For those of you who have the tri-wood RS1x, are cracks in the cocobolo layer to be expected? In addition to the cracks that go all the way through on the right driver pictured below, the left side has multiple hairline cracks.

Oh no!
I would return under warranty just incase that split gets worse, wood can split more specially if you have humidity then dry weather.

 

[qua2k]

Oh no!
I would return under warranty just incase that split gets worse, wood can split more specially if you have humidity then dry weather.

This is one reason why I am shy on the new multiple layered X versions. Wood ages differently depending on type and environment. Sandwiching different woods may have issues like this as time goes on.

 

[jonathan c]

This is one reason why I am shy on the new multiple layered X versions. Wood ages differently depending on type and environment. Sandwiching different woods may have issues like this as time goes on.

To the GS3000e / Hemp / RS1x, I apply this once lightly each month: