[obobskivich]

Mine are the black ones with black aluminum sleeves.

I'm wondering if the shell that the driver gets put into will affect the bass in some way. Since a lot of recent impressions have come from DIY headphones and not from the symphones product (since it's not available anymore), maybe there's greater variances with wood cups, wood or plastic sleeves, different cup depths, etc.

I hate to bring up measurements in this thread but none of the Magnum variations (V1, V2, V4 etc) that have been measured have overwhelming bass boom - except for one that was placed in some martin audio deep wood cups with extra aluminum spacers and then had comfy pads placed on the drivers. I get the feeling that the custom cups can have a big effect on the sound.

Yes, the ear-cups absolutely change the sound. Just like the driver box changes how a speaker will sound. This matters even for open headphones or speakers. My understanding/theory is that Grado cans are as close to a t-line as any headphone can get, and that's why the deep pipes make them bassier. Adding spacers will move you closer to something called a 1/4 wave, and that will eventually create a mud cannon with tons of distortion outside of it's passband (but if you use a big driver and a crossover/filter, you can make some killer subwoofers with this design!).

The drivers influence things too, of course (they can only be "so good" and no enclosure can make a driver better than it is, if that makes sense), but you can see major FR changes with adjustments or tweaks to the cups. If you want a really simple example, throw on your Grados (or any open headphone really), and put your hands over the vents.

I think purrin measured the SR-80 free-air and in it's housing as well, as a comparison. I'm not sure where the thread for that is, but you can probably find it if you're super curious. There was a difference though (I don't remember what exactly changed, but there was a demonstrable difference).

 

[hanglee65]

how do you find the Alexandrros?  

 

[obobskivich]

how do you find the Alexandrros?  

Alessandro headphones are available from Alessandro High End Products - http://www.alessandro-products.com/main.php

Google, Bing, DuckDuckGo, Yahoo!, etc are your friend.

 

[wje]

Quote:

Either way, I remain one of the posters here who prefers the performance of the magnum over the regular Grado models in the same price range (RS1, PS500). But it's just that - a preference. A shame they're not being made anymore.

 
The drivers are still available, though, right?  I had heard stories going both ways, but the last I heard was the drivers were still available.  I haven't hear the PS-500, yet.  Interested in hearing it, though.  I'd love to hear how it goes against the HF-2.

 

[wje]

Quote:

Alessandro headphones are available from Alessandro High End Products - http://www.alessandro-products.com/main.php
Google, Bing, DuckDuckGo, Yahoo!, etc are your friend.

 
The MS-1a used to be available on eBay from one vendor out of California.  They had the option of submitting a "best offer".  Their shipping was free.  I picked up two pair for $99, each - shipped to me.

 

[devouringone3]

Hey  Obobskivich that's a nice isobaric headphone you sent there to Tyll! Isobaric means the drivers are opposed in a sealed air-chamber and controls the air of this chamber together while by vibrating in the same phase, right? Did you get this idea in this other thread where we were speaking of stacking Grados together and have the two playback the same thing?
Quote:
 
Hey guys, I'm tired of always exchanging (and charging) the 9 volts batteries my Grado HPA-1 needs, I listen to music a lot and I'd prefer keeping the batteries for portable use... So I'm commencing to look up for parts to make myself a copycat (emulation, trying to achieve better quality) of this external power supply (now that I've been trying to find and buy the official Joseph Grado one for months without any hint of success and that I gave up):

 
What should I look for? what are the audiophile principles behind this black box and which companies manufacture the best ones for such a purpose (and that takes 100-120 AC and gives me 12 volts DC, no more no less)? Should I make a thread about it to have more qualified people look at it?
 
The jack (*PLUG, male) is a mini-xlr one with three prongs:

 
I guess "+", "-", and "ground"; and the cable is a four conductors headphone cable (I guess two wires are doing the "ground" together). Which cable should I take? I guess not a headphone cable like a Moon-Audio Black Dragon? I don't see the need in having four wires really, actually I might need only two in reality, though I'd like three (and have a grounded transformer). Actually I'd like to have a cable more suited to convey current and not audio signals (like a headphone cable).
 
Finally the mini-xlr jack, which brand do you use? Rean, Switchcraft? is there anything I should know before picking one, or they're all the same?
 
THANK YOU
 
 
*Edit1: I found this nice cable: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Oyaide-HPC-X35-2-5m-Cable-for-Mini-XLR-Headphone-3-5mm-Stereo-mini-mini-XLR-/290693396874?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43aead398a#ht_2465wt_1150
 
It's a headphone cable (for AKG K702, hehe) yes but wouldn't it be good?
 
And can I buy and send the parts to you Chris_himself so that I can purchase your awesome soldering skills service? To solder the transformer and the cable neatly together basically. I can use a multimeter on my amp to tell you the polarities, though I've never done it (so I'd gladly take indications on how to do it, use the multimeter, etc.), lol :S I'm an electricity noob.
 
*Edit2: I'm pretty much set on my mini-xlr choice of JACK (female), I typed "mini xlr" on mouser and took the most expensive one: http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Switchcraft/TA3FSHF/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvlX3nhDDO4AEPV6V68YrR%252bjL%2foViojLcE%3d
 
*Edit3: Okay I think I'll just buy the Grado AC RA-1 power supply straight from the manufacturer: http://www.lpgear.com/product/GRADORA1PS.html it's 12 V DC output, but I'll confirm with Grado that it would be compatible.
 
I just realized I had no idea of what the mAmpere output should be :/

 

[obobskivich]

The MS-1a used to be available on eBay from one vendor out of California.  They had the option of submitting a "best offer".  Their shipping was free.  I picked up two pair for $99, each - shipped to me.

I thought the MS-1 were $99 from Alessandro too? http://www.alessandro-products.com/main.php?p=headphones

??

Hey  Obobskivich that's a nice isobaric headphone you sent there to Tyll! Isobaric means the drivers are opposed in a sealed air-chamber and controls the air of this chamber together while by vibrating in the same phase, right? Did you get this idea in this other thread where we were speaking of stacking Grados together and have the two playback the same thing?

I'll PM you.

Hey guys, I'm tired of always exchanging the batteries inside my Grado HPA-1, so I'm commencing to look up for parts to make myself a reproduction of this external power supply (now that I've been trying to find and buy one for months without success and that I gave up):


What should I look for? what are the audiophile principles behind this black box and which companies manufacture the best ones for such a purpose? that takes 100-120 AC and gives me 12 volts DC? Should I make a thread about it to have more qualified people look at it?

That box doesn't look like anything special - I'm seeing an unregulated linear wall-pack right there. They're a few bucks all day online. All you have to ask is, how many amps, and what kind of plug does it need. The plug is probably the hardest part to source. The sticker claims that's regulated, so whopie, but it doesn't list amperage. So go huge (like 4A, it won't blow anything up, the device just won't draw the excess) to prevent sag.

The jack is a mini-xlr one with three prongs:


I guess "+", "-", and "ground"; and the cable is a four conductors headphone cable (I guess two wires are doing deserving the "ground" together). Which cable should I take? I guess not a headphone cable like a Moon-Audio Black Dragon? I don't see the need in having four wires really, actually I might need only two in reality, though I'd like three. Actually I'd like to have a cable more suited to convey current and not audio signals (like a headphone cable).

Finally the mini-xlr jack, which brand do you use? Rean, Switchcraft? is there anything I should know before picking one, or they're all the same?

THANK YOU

DC doesn't have ground and earth, it has positive and negative (or hot and ground). The third pin is either unused, or they have two hot leads and a common ground (which is similar to the RA-1 circuit that you can't just feed a single DC pole into, because it'll blow up the opamp) - that "dual PSU" sticker makes me nervous. I'd look for more pinout information or a schematic of what the amp wants internally - it may need +12, +12, and - all at once (you cannot just split the 12V feed to do this), as in a multi-rail PSU (they aren't expensive, don't fear).

Regarding the cable - copper is copper. I have spools of 16-1 and 16-2, I'd whack some off of that. Or truck over to home depot if I needed 16-3 or some other configuration; they'll cut to length. There is no way this thing needs that much power so probably even 18AWG would be fine, but 16 and 14 is so cheap, so why screw with it? There is no difference in "suited to convey current" vs "audio signals" - copper is copper. And cables don't care if it's AC (audio) or DC (this).

On the jack, get something that will fit, and beyond that, go with what you like and what will work for your needs. Don't get something that's a PITA to wire.

 

[LCfiner]

Quote:

 
The drivers are still available, though, right?  I had heard stories going both ways, but the last I heard was the drivers were still available.  I haven't hear the PS-500, yet.  Interested in hearing it, though.  I'd love to hear how it goes against the HF-2.

 
yeah, last I heard drivers were still being made for the DIY crowd. (or he possibly had a bunch left over and was just selling those)
 
But from what I've read (impressions plus measurements), a DIY Magnum won't sound the same as the original. It might still sound great but there's going to be a lot more variation.

 

[wje]

Quote:

I thought the MS-1 were $99 from Alessandro too? http://www.alessandro-products.com/main.php?p=headphones
 

 
Yes, you are correct.  I also believe that their shipping is free, too.  I'd have to look for my invoice - I possibly paid less ($89.00?) a pair delivered.  I know it was less than going through Allesandro, though..
 
 
 
Quote:

 
yeah, last I heard drivers were still being made for the DIY crowd. (or he possibly had a bunch left over and was just selling those)
 
But from what I've read (impressions plus measurements), a DIY Magnum won't sound the same as the original. It might still sound great but there's going to be a lot more variation.

 
I've done 2 to 3 builds using various wooden cups with the Magnum drives.  The completed headphones resulted in some great sounding headphones.  In fact, I liked what I heard more than the HF-2 Grados, that I had at the time.  I do realize the Magnum is ultimately designed for the aluminum chamber and aluminum cup format.  But, it isn't a bad combination when applied to a wooden cup, too.

 

[LCfiner]

I think a solidly built DIY Magnum certainly has the capability to sound better than the HF2. The driver has less tendency for ringing than the regular Grado drivers and so will likely sound better in a wider variety of enclosures. I am definitely not surprised by that. (And this is someone who owned and loved the HF2. It's just not quite as well behaved as the Magnum with some frequencies)
 
I didn't want to diminish the capability of a DIY phone of sounding good or great. I just think it's a shame that the baseline Magnum design isn't available anymore - even if it was just to be used a point of comparison.
 
But, thinking about it a bit more, there's been so many different Magnum driver versions out there that the "baseline" barely exists anyway.

 

[Twinster]

Simon,

Welcome back !!  After all, it was you who introduced me to the Grado / wooden cup combination through the procurement of a fine pair of headphones from you.  It seems like you found a "gem" of a pair of Grados.  Congratulations.  As to the MS-Pro, I think my opinion differs a bit.  Well all have opinions, right?  To me, the MS-Pro left me unimpressed.  I was fortunate enough to be part of a user "trial" where one generous member allowed his pair to go on a bit of a road tour for a handful of us.  I was expecting a lot from a $699 pair of headphones.  Yet, the MS-Pro just didn't seem to do it for me.  I couldn't connect with it.  However, out of complete fairness, I do have to admit that at the time, I don't believe that I was using a sufficient amp and source to pair with my headphones.  Certainly, the smaller FiiO amps and paired with some of the weaker MP3 players such as the cheaper Sony offerings, is not a very good method for driving even a relatively easy headphone such as the Grado.  I would love to have another turn with the MS-Pro headphones using my current setup -- just to see how my opinion would stand today.

On the other hand, have you had a chance to hear a pair of the HF-2 headphones by Grado?

Same to you Wayne read that you got some HF2. I never heard the HF2 but read that they have plenty of bass but not as kcontrol as the Magnum so I'm afraid I would not like them (same with PS500 ).

Regarding the MS-Pro, I remember your review and that you were not impress with them. The pair I had were vintage so I do not know if that. Add a difference but they were very nice for all acoustic music being Rock or Jazz. I also used them with distancers and G-Cush pads (salad bowl) and the soundstage with the signature was amazing.

In my case mi was fortunate to have a great amplifier that synergyzed well with them. the new SR325 are very good too. They have decent soundstage and their bass is just right for me. Specialy with he Amperex made in Holland tube

 

[devouringone3]

Quote:

That box doesn't look like anything special - I'm seeing an unregulated linear wall-pack right there. They're a few bucks all day online. All you have to ask is, how many amps, and what kind of plug does it need. The plug is probably the hardest part to source. The sticker claims that's regulated, so whopie, but it doesn't list amperage. So go huge (like 4A, it won't blow anything up, the device just won't draw the excess) to prevent sag.

DC doesn't have ground and earth, it has positive and negative (or hot and ground). The third pin is either unused, or they have two hot leads and a common ground (which is similar to the RA-1 circuit that you can't just feed a single DC pole into, because it'll blow up the opamp) - that "dual PSU" sticker makes me nervous. I'd look for more pinout information or a schematic of what the amp wants internally - it may need +12, +12, and - all at once (you cannot just split the 12V feed to do this), as in a multi-rail PSU (they aren't expensive, don't fear).

Regarding the cable - copper is copper. I have spools of 16-1 and 16-2, I'd whack some off of that. Or truck over to home depot if I needed 16-3 or some other configuration; they'll cut to length. There is no way this thing needs that much power so probably even 18AWG would be fine, but 16 and 14 is so cheap, so why screw with it? There is no difference in "suited to convey current" vs "audio signals" - copper is copper. And cables don't care if it's AC (audio) or DC (this).
On the jack, get something that will fit, and beyond that, go with what you like and what will work for your needs. Don't get something that's a PITA to wire.

 
4 A? I hope you're right that it won't blow up anything, lol. It's a minimum thing, I need to have "at least" a certain quantity of current so that the amplifier can take all that she needs?
 
Hey this box is made in Japan (apparently on the underside, but I've got no photos of that... there is only two photos of that thing on the whole internet), so it's good (and regulated). It's not those cheap ones made in China, hehe.
 
I won't have fear, thank you Obob. I just emailed info@gradolabs.com hoping to get a reply from John , so that he can give me more information on that external Grado PSU (maybe the "pinout" like you say), and if I could use a modified version of the RA-1's power supply. I also asked if he directly had (a Joseph Grado) one lying around for sale, but that was probably vain.
 
Thanks! I'll figure out all this stuff (basically I could call Joseph Grado as well, for the pinouts), buy the parts online, and then ask for the services of a good solderer. (No I don't want to do it myself! haha)

 

[Twinster]

@rezolver, very cool Avatar you got. Is it Geme Simmons from Kiss?

No it's not. But I know this face??

 

[obobskivich]

Yes, you are correct.  I also believe that their shipping is free, too.  I'd have to look for my invoice - I possibly paid less ($89.00?) a pair delivered.  I know it was less than going through Allesandro, though..

Interesting. When I asked Alessandro about returns and so on, they said 10 day/10% restock, so I'm not really in love with their policies.

I've done 2 to 3 builds using various wooden cups with the Magnum drives.  The completed headphones resulted in some great sounding headphones.  In fact, I liked what I heard more than the HF-2 Grados, that I had at the time.  I do realize the Magnum is ultimately designed for the aluminum chamber and aluminum cup format.  But, it isn't a bad combination when applied to a wooden cup, too.

I'm kind of curious about this - hypothetically speaking aluminum and sealed wood (like the RS-1 or any of the lacquer stuff from Headphile) should behave identically at HF, and minimally different at LF and ULF; I'm curious about differences in cup shape vs composition.

I think a solidly built DIY Magnum certainly has the capability to sound better than the HF2. The driver has less tendency for ringing than the regular Grado drivers and so will likely sound better in a wider variety of enclosures. I am definitely not surprised by that. (And this is someone who owned and loved the HF2. It's just not quite as well behaved as the Magnum with some frequencies)

I didn't want to diminish the capability of a DIY phone of sounding good or great. I just think it's a shame that the baseline Magnum design isn't available anymore - even if it was just to be used a point of comparison.

But, thinking about it a bit more, there's been so many different Magnum driver versions out there that the "baseline" barely exists anyway.

Where would one get a Magnum driver? Just e-mail Symphones? Or FS/FT board?

4 A? I hope you're right that it won't blow up anything, lol. It's a minimum thing, I need to have "at least" a certain quantity of current so that the amplifier can take all that she needs?

Yes it's a minimum. So the amp will need X current, as long as your power supply can provide X or greater, it's fine. Honestly you could rig the thing to run off of your PC's SMPS if you really wanted (depending on how good that is, it's probably going to outspec most consumer products).

I wouldn't go too insane though - if you hook up something like my computer's PSU (that gives you 64A 12V) it's going to be very inefficient. You can probably just salvage a wallpack from a phone charger or some other CE toy that uses 12V (12V is very common).

Hey this box is made in Japan (apparently on the underside, but I've got no photos of that... there is only two photos of that thing on the whole internet), so it's good (and regulated). It's not those cheap ones made in China, hehe.

Meh. It's still probably quite cheap. That isn't necessarily a bad thing though - as long as it does its job.

I won't have fear, thank you Obob. I just emailed info@gradolabs.com hoping to get a reply from John , so that he can give me more information on that external Grado PSU (maybe the "pinout" like you say), and if I could use a modified version of the RA-1's power supply. I also asked if he directly had (a Joseph Grado) one lying around for sale, but that was probably vain.

Yeah, it's very possible that it requires two 12V rails (like the RA1 does), but without a solid pinout it's hard to say. Once you know how that XLR is wired, it's easy-peasy to extrapolate to a new PSU. It may just be that one pin is cold though, and in that case any 12V driver will be fine.

Thanks! I'll figure out all this stuff (basically I could call Joseph Grado as well, for the pinouts), buy the parts online, and then ask for the services of a good solderer. (No I don't want to do it myself! haha)

Would also work. Really not a hard project to reterminate a wall-pack or molex rig either (and to be completely honest with you, if it was me, you'd see wirenuts and a ziptie or two and I'd call it a day - I power my dog's automatic feeder with such a rig using an old Nokia charger).

LMK what they say.

 

[devouringone3]

Quote:

I wouldn't go too insane though - if you hook up something like my computer's PSU (that gives you 64A 12V) it's going to be very inefficient. You can probably just salvage a wallpack from a phone charger or some other CE toy that uses 12V (12V is very common).
Meh. It's still probably quite cheap. That isn't necessarily a bad thing though - as long as it does its job.
Yeah, it's very possible that it requires two 12V rails (like the RA1 does), but without a solid pinout it's hard to say. Once you know how that XLR is wired, it's easy-peasy to extrapolate to a new PSU. It may just be that one pin is cold though, and in that case any 12V driver will be fine.
Would also work. Really not a hard project to reterminate a wall-pack or molex rig either (and to be completely honest with you, if it was me, you'd see wirenuts and a ziptie or two and I'd call it a day - I power my dog's automatic feeder with such a rig using an old Nokia charger).
LMK what they say.

 
Alright I know where to focus my attention now!
 
Can you extrapolate it with those pictures of some of the internals of the amplifier?
 (don't hesitate to click to enlarge)


 



 
It's just one pair of capacitors for both the battery and the PSU fed operation. In front I can easily recognize the ALPS pot., the custom 6.35 mm TRS jack, the off/stand-by/on switch and the two battery indicator red LEDs, from front to back, and on the back it's a pair of RCA, a mini-xlr jack, and a switch for selection of current source; all that I can't figure out is what's in the middle under that black metal plate.