Fostex T50RP Incremental Mods and Measurements
Feb 16, 2015 at 11:27 AM Post #1,726 of 2,829
It seems that it may take a few weeks for Bake to Dry "clay" to melt and crumble ABS plastic.
 
Post 7847 for results of using the wrong "clay."
 
Post 7869 (at the bottom) for the the culprit.
 
 
Note, the same thing happens if you use Lock-Tite to help the tiny 2 mm screws grab hold of stripped cup threads. Stripped cup threads can be repaired, melted cups and baffles are ready for the recyle bin.
 
Feb 16, 2015 at 2:48 PM Post #1,728 of 2,829
  It seems that it may take a few weeks for Bake to Dry "clay" to melt and crumble ABS plastic.
 
Post 7847 for results of using the wrong "clay."
 
Post 7869 (at the bottom) for the the culprit.
 
 
Note, the same thing happens if you use Lock-Tite to help the tiny 2 mm screws grab hold of stripped cup threads. Stripped cup threads can be repaired, melted cups and baffles are ready for the recyle bin.

I didn't use this exact clay but I'm pretty sure the chemistry of it is the same.  Not taking any chances.  Looks like I'll be removing the clay and cleaning the baffles as best I can with a Q-tip and isopropyl alcohol, which I assume would be good for cleaning any leftover oily residue.  BMF: Can you get replacement screws for these? 
 
Feb 16, 2015 at 2:52 PM Post #1,729 of 2,829
I didn't use this exact clay but I'm pretty sure the chemistry of it is the same.  Not taking any chances.  Looks like I'll be removing the clay and cleaning the baffles as best I can with a Q-tip and isopropyl alcohol, which I assume would be good for cleaning any leftover oily residue.  BMF: Can you get replacement screws for these? 


Last I saw were $1.50 each at fullcompass. How many do you need?
 
Feb 16, 2015 at 3:02 PM Post #1,730 of 2,829
Last I saw were $1.50 each at fullcompass. How many do you need?

I was just looking for some backups... or specs on the screws so I would search at the local HW Store in case I strip the heads.  I came close to doing this as the screws came tight from the factory.  I'm good for now as I'm not tightening them as much as stock.  Stripping the inside baffle is probably more of a concern like with the problem you had.
 
Feb 16, 2015 at 6:31 PM Post #1,731 of 2,829
  I was just looking for some backups... or specs on the screws so I would search at the local HW Store in case I strip the heads.  I came close to doing this as the screws came tight from the factory.  I'm good for now as I'm not tightening them as much as stock.  Stripping the inside baffle is probably more of a concern like with the problem you had.

 
If you make many modification cycles using the screws each time, the cup threads will strip. 
 
You can avoid this by using masking tape in place of the screws.
 
If the cup threads strip, you can repair with superglue, let it harden for at least 24 hours, and then re-tap. Instructions are in Post #1 of this thread.
 
Feb 17, 2015 at 2:25 AM Post #1,732 of 2,829
Quick question: For DBV #3 do you still create a 1x3mm bass port on the cup vents and remove the dust cover on the baffle and put down dynamat/fatmat?
 
Also on sealing the cup vents - do you remove the stock felt then place down the tape and then replace the felt on top of the tape?
 
Feb 17, 2015 at 8:08 AM Post #1,733 of 2,829
  Quick question: For DBV #3 do you still create a 1x3mm bass port on the cup vents and remove the dust cover on the baffle and put down dynamat/fatmat?
 
Also on sealing the cup vents - do you remove the stock felt then place down the tape and then replace the felt on top of the tape?

Better Modified Bass Ports are shown in Post 1 of this thread.
 
You have to test various mods to find out what sounds best to you. The 1 mm dimension is the height of the slots. I seal the top 3 slots and seal all but 3 mm width of the bottom slot with the modified bass port (the opening) in the center. You don't have to remove the stock internal bass vent felt. Make a cover using thin-stiff cardboard with the 1 mm x 3 mm opening centered over the bottom slot. If you make the cardboard's vertical dimension slightly larger than where it will seat, you can wedge in place, or friction mount it. Use a toothpick to apply a small bead of rubber cement around the edges to insure a good seal. Without a seal, you may end up with leakage = a larger bass port than you intended.
 
The best way to test different sizes of modified bass ports is by using masking tape on the outside of the vents. Cover the sides and bottom of all 4 vent slots with a strip of 3/4" masking tape. Press it down at all corners = no gaps. Even a tiny gap will skew your results. Use an X-acto knife to cut a 1 mm x 1 mm opening in one of the slots, then test. Make it larger by 1 mm increments and test as you go. I find that larger than ~ 8 mm wide is essentially = to stock vent felt fully open. Once you determine the most effective modified bass port width, you can make a permanent modified bass port as described, above, and shown in Post 1. It's also important to remember that there is a huge "bass port" around the jack in the left cup and small, but not inconsequential, "bass ports" at the cable entry points at the top of each cup. These need to be sealed with silicone or hot glue. Just be careful silicone / hot glue does not ooze into the jack - cover the jack opening with tape before you seal around it from the inside of the cup.
 
Dynamat / Fatmat over the ear side of the baffle, surrounding the driver, may reduce mechanical distortion. Remove the "dust cover" felt from the face of the baffle and sand it smooth before installing Dynamat / Fatmat. Roll it flat and firmly with a triple-A battery. Apply Paxmate / Silverstone over the Dynamat to prevent reflections by absorption. Cut a notch for the baffle port so it remains open. The baffle port is the 2 mm hole at the top right of the baffle. It "communicates" with the internal cup space and allows for pressure equalization in concert with the modified bass port. Note that the baffle port is also tunable if more bass is desired - see Post 1.
 
Good Luck
 
Feb 17, 2015 at 10:27 AM Post #1,734 of 2,829
@bluemonkeyflyer

Hi BMF

I think my next step in this rabbit hole is to do the Phantom Power Supply & Panasonic mic.

Pardon the noob question...are these separate items (power supply + mic assembly) or they need to go together?

Also, does this test in mono so you test one ear at a time?

Any advice from your experience is greatly appreciated :)
 
Feb 17, 2015 at 11:20 AM Post #1,735 of 2,829
@bluemonkeyflyer

Hi BMF

I think my next step in this rabbit hole is to do the Phantom Power Supply & Panasonic mic.

Pardon the noob question...are these separate items (power supply + mic assembly) or they need to go together?

Also, does this test in mono so you test one ear at a time?

Any advice from your experience is greatly appreciated
smily_headphones1.gif

Best to build them separately in case the mic fails.
 
Phantom Power Supply can be built Mono or Stereo.  See Post 1 for the schematic by 'solderdude' and phantom photo built in Mono. I will soon upload the Stereo version.
 
Feb 17, 2015 at 5:12 PM Post #1,736 of 2,829
  Better Modified Bass Ports are shown in Post 1 of this thread.
 
You have to test various mods to find out what sounds best to you. The 1 mm dimension is the height of the slots. I seal the top 3 slots and seal all but 3 mm width of the bottom slot with the modified bass port (the opening) in the center. You don't have to remove the stock internal bass vent felt. Make a cover using thin-stiff cardboard with the 1 mm x 3 mm opening centered over the bottom slot. If you make the cardboard's vertical dimension slightly larger than where it will seat, you can wedge in place, or friction mount it. Use a toothpick to apply a small bead of rubber cement around the edges to insure a good seal. Without a seal, you may end up with leakage = a larger bass port than you intended.
 
The best way to test different sizes of modified bass ports is by using masking tape on the outside of the vents. Cover the sides and bottom of all 4 vent slots with a strip of 3/4" masking tape. Press it down at all corners = no gaps. Even a tiny gap will skew your results. Use an X-acto knife to cut a 1 mm x 1 mm opening in one of the slots, then test. Make it larger by 1 mm increments and test as you go. I find that larger than ~ 8 mm wide is essentially = to stock vent felt fully open. Once you determine the most effective modified bass port width, you can make a permanent modified bass port as described, above, and shown in Post 1. It's also important to remember that there is a huge "bass port" around the jack in the left cup and small, but not inconsequential, "bass ports" at the cable entry points at the top of each cup. These need to be sealed with silicone or hot glue. Just be careful silicone / hot glue does not ooze into the jack - cover the jack opening with tape before you seal around it from the inside of the cup.
 
Dynamat / Fatmat over the ear side of the baffle, surrounding the driver, may reduce mechanical distortion. Remove the "dust cover" felt from the face of the baffle and sand it smooth before installing Dynamat / Fatmat. Roll it flat and firmly with a triple-A battery. Apply Paxmate / Silverstone over the Dynamat to prevent reflections by absorption. Cut a notch for the baffle port so it remains open. The baffle port is the 2 mm hole at the top right of the baffle. It "communicates" with the internal cup space and allows for pressure equalization in concert with the modified bass port. Note that the baffle port is also tunable if more bass is desired - see Post 1.
 
Good Luck

 
Got it!  Yeah I wasn't exactly sure if the DBV 1 mods carried over to DBV 2 and 3 aside from the changes mentioned.  Thanks! 
 
Feb 17, 2015 at 9:52 PM Post #1,737 of 2,829
Wanted to thank fleasbaby and show off his handiwork.
 

 
Absolutely gorgeous wood. I will let him share the details.
 
Now sit down before you take a gander at the next photo.
 
 
My wife laughed at me.
mad.gif

 
Something about me "compensating" and "Princess Leia"
 
Pfft! I like them!
 
Feb 17, 2015 at 10:55 PM Post #1,739 of 2,829
Wanted to thank fleasbaby and show off his handiwork.




Absolutely gorgeous wood. I will let him share the details.

Now sit down before you take a gander at the next photo.




My wife laughed at me. :mad:

Something about me over "compensating" and "Princess Leia"

Pfft! I like them!


LMAO...I am glad you like them...the square edge does make them look large. If you want to pop them back my way I will gladly take them apart and see about trying to round those corners a little more...

The wood is Eastern Red Cedar and the finish is polyurethane. The baffles are friction fit so the headphones can be opened and closed repeatedly for tuning purposes. When tuning is finished they can be closed up once and for all with hot glue.

If it's any consolation, my wife likes to laugh at me when mine are on as well :)
 

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