Fostex new RP headphones - T50RPmk3, T40RPmk3 and T20RPmk3
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IBJamon

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Is it too fine to solder a short patch on?
It may be possible, though won't look very good...

I may do that short term, but I am also considering a balanced/dual mono mod (not that I need or would use a balanced amp) but perhaps it would be easier/better to do that than properly fix it.

Now do I go dual 2.5mm or 3.5mm... RCA is unfortunately a bit too big I'd say...
 
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Has anyone hear paired t50rp mk3 with chord mojo , was wondering what it pairs like because of power.
 
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AviP

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Has anyone hear paired t50rp mk3 with chord mojo , was wondering what it pairs like because of power.
I have both and never listened to them together, until now.
They have more than enough power, I can listen up into the high powered headphone range where the "-" light stays white and the plus cycles through colors, but I can't go all the way to the top, it just get's too loud.
I was going to write that it's ok, but I hear some sibilance, but then I decided to plug the T50RP into my Magni2/ModiMB stack and I had sibilance there too. My conclusion is that it's because I replaced the stock pads with Shure 1540 pads and I cut out the pad material that covers the driver because it lowered the highs too much, I guess it still needs something there because now they're too high :) . The truth is that I hardly use them, so I never got around to listening to them critically.
 
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I have both and never listened to them together, until now.
They have more than enough power, I can listen up into the high powered headphone range where the "-" light stays white and the plus cycles through colors, but I can't go all the way to the top, it just get's too loud.
I was going to write that it's ok, but I hear some sibilance, but then I decided to plug the T50RP into my Magni2/ModiMB stack and I had sibilance there too. My conclusion is that it's because I replaced the stock pads with Shure 1540 pads and I cut out the pad material that covers the driver because it lowered the highs too much, I guess it still needs something there because now they're too high :) . The truth is that I hardly use them, so I never got around to listening to them critically.
I think the sibilance is there all along you just notice it more with better pads and better seal...i use brainwavez hybrid pads and when I bought them after about 30 mins use I changed back to stock again and it was still there just don't think I was listening out for it or because of tighter seal more noticeable.
 
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axtran

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It may be possible, though won't look very good...

I may do that short term, but I am also considering a balanced/dual mono mod (not that I need or would use a balanced amp) but perhaps it would be easier/better to do that than properly fix it.

Now do I go dual 2.5mm or 3.5mm... RCA is unfortunately a bit too big I'd say...
If you're in the US, I might have some extra from a MK2 or MK3 that I can send to you for just shipping. :) My T20RP cups have been modded to death now and those old wire ports are my "bassport."
 
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mrmonday

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Sorry to interrupt conversation but I didn't want to create a new thread. I purchased the t40rpmk3 when they first came out with the rebate last year primarily because they were the only closed option of the three. I swiftly replaced the pads with the SRH840 pads, but I have always felt that despite being detailed they really lack in bass punch and after a couple months of ownership I was wishing I had purchased the t20rpmk3 instead and covered the vents with puddy. However, I put it out of my mind since I didn't think it was worth the hassle of selling them and purchasing the 20s. Now, a year later I am reconsidering, are there modifications I should do to my 40s or should I sell them and get the 20s to mod? Thanks!
 
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Sorry to interrupt conversation but I didn't want to create a new thread. I purchased the t40rpmk3 when they first came out with the rebate last year primarily because they were the only closed option of the three. I swiftly replaced the pads with the SRH840 pads, but I have always felt that despite being detailed they really lack in bass punch and after a couple months of ownership I was wishing I had purchased the t20rpmk3 instead and covered the vents with puddy. However, I put it out of my mind since I didn't think it was worth the hassle of selling them and purchasing the 20s. Now, a year later I am reconsidering, are there modifications I should do to my 40s or should I sell them and get the 20s to mod? Thanks!
There are two things you can consider. If you are willing to mod them, you could open them up and remove the cup vent material and make them completely open.

Another option is to find some soft felt (1/32" thick i think) and cut it into rectangles to replace the usual tape in the t40 cup vent. This will bring it a bit more bass like the t50.

I wish I knew what fostex uses for the cup vent on their t20, it is extremely transparent and difficult to identify even what it is. Regardless, making them fully open should make a good difference and is worth a try.

Making them open wont have much effect on isolation due to the size of the vent, so you won't lose the benefit of the closed t40.
 
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Sorry to interrupt conversation but I didn't want to create a new thread. I purchased the t40rpmk3 when they first came out with the rebate last year primarily because they were the only closed option of the three. I swiftly replaced the pads with the SRH840 pads, but I have always felt that despite being detailed they really lack in bass punch and after a couple months of ownership I was wishing I had purchased the t20rpmk3 instead and covered the vents with puddy. However, I put it out of my mind since I didn't think it was worth the hassle of selling them and purchasing the 20s. Now, a year later I am reconsidering, are there modifications I should do to my 40s or should I sell them and get the 20s to mod? Thanks!
I was in the same boat. I then purchased the T50RP and decided that unless I do something to the T40RP's they're just never going to get used again, so I opened them up and removed the little plastic pieces covering the vents and replaced it with felt and I made it a little bassier than the T50RP's just so that I'd have some variety.
 
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IBJamon

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If you're in the US, I might have some extra from a MK2 or MK3 that I can send to you for just shipping. :) My T20RP cups have been modded to death now and those old wire ports are my "bassport."
I'm sorry I just saw this now (I didn't get a reply notification for some reason). I really appreciate that offer, and I might take you up on it.

I would suspect a simple stamp may be enough for one tiny little wire.

If this offer still stands, please PM me.

Thank you very much!

Though honestly I should just get off my lazy butt and order those new plugs.... lol
 
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There are two things you can consider. If you are willing to mod them, you could open them up and remove the cup vent material and make them completely open.

Another option is to find some soft felt (1/32" thick i think) and cut it into rectangles to replace the usual tape in the t40 cup vent. This will bring it a bit more bass like the t50.

I wish I knew what fostex uses for the cup vent on their t20, it is extremely transparent and difficult to identify even what it is. Regardless, making them fully open should make a good difference and is worth a try.

Making them open wont have much effect on isolation due to the size of the vent, so you won't lose the benefit of the closed t40.
Doesn't the t40rpmk3 have a slightly different driver from the 20 and 50? Could that be part of the reason it is lacking bass? I would like to keep them as isolated as possible so I might try the felt idea.
 
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Doesn't the t40rpmk3 have a slightly different driver from the 20 and 50? Could that be part of the reason it is lacking bass? I would like to keep them as isolated as possible so I might try the felt idea.
Nope. It's still the dt29 driver for the MK3 generation, albeit some "revision" modifications that is common across the 20/40/50.
 
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Doesn't the t40rpmk3 have a slightly different driver from the 20 and 50? Could that be part of the reason it is lacking bass? I would like to keep them as isolated as possible so I might try the felt idea.
The drivers across t20/40/50 are the same. The one sole difference between the 3 headphones is the material covering the inside of the cup vent. The thicker/more closed the material, the leaner the bass response.
 
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I recently purchased a T20RP MK3 because I liked it better than the 50 and you can always convert it easily to a 40 by closing the whole or to a 50 by adding the appropriate foam to the opening.

I was amazed how good it sounded and how it really kicked some serious a.. by blowing my own Stax O2 with SRM-717 rig, my Fostex TH-900 and my own Focal Elear out of the water and clearly beating my friends pre-fazor LCD2 in clarity and focus just not pounding as hard on bass as the LCD2...

So I am wondering whether anybody has compared the stock 50 and found it inferior to any of the ZMF MK II based mods such as the Ori, Blackwood or Vibro,

I am sorry but I don't really know how to use the search feature to go through this thread to find posts that may tell me if I can get even better performance from
some of the above considerably more expensive commercially moded sets.

I must add that driving Orthos is so difficult and that I am using a chain to drive the T20 and LCD2
all the way up to their full potential the chain is

Sony PHa-3 (100mw) + ifi Micro DSD (at max 4Watt mode) + Trends Audio speaker class-T 20 Watt
with banana speaker terminals wired to a female TRS plug.
 
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So I am wondering whether anybody has compared the stock 50 and found it inferior to any of the ZMF MK II based mods such as the Ori, Blackwood or Vibro,
I have a stock 50 (unless adding Brainwavz hybrid pads to it for comfort makes it not be considered stock). I also have a ZMF Vibro MKii (purplewood). I do not like to think in terms of "inferior" but rather just "different." To actually answer your question I would need to take some time and then get back to you. I will, for now, say that I enjoy both. I will never get rid of either. Now you do have me curious enough to compare a little. I have not listened to the Vibros for awhile probably because they are heavier than most of my headphones. I knew that would be the case but I just had to have them! They are beautiful.
 
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I am sorry but I don't really know how to use the search feature to go through this thread to find posts that may tell me if I can get even better performance from
some of the above considerably more expensive commercially moded sets.
The search feature is along the top of the webpage, 'Search Forums'.

Unfortunately, you have to customize the search and it can take a minute, but I tried it out yesterday and its functional. I do miss the old search engine that allowed searching for keywords in a specific thread.

Anyways, I can agree that the T50 MK3 is terrific. Its speedy, neutral, very tonally accurate and punchy to boot. I do have the ZMF Ori and have listened to both extensively, but I cannot say that one is inferior to the other. It comes down to genre pairing for me; T50 when I want to listen to something 'as intended' and want to hear every detail, or the Ori for slower genres/songs or when a recording needs the extra impact and warmth the Oris can provide. Not to say the Ori lacks detail, it just very warm sounding. They are quite different beasts.

The Alpha Prime is another MK2 mod that is terrific, it has the detail retrieval of the T50 and the warmth of the Ori as well, but they're not too common these days.
 
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